วีดีโอ

@@glennsands4675 good to hear you like them. I’ll be uploading a video soon on how I modified the existing linkages to have more adjustment.

@@CoreyLucas-c6k it’s VERY close. I was fully prepared when doing the exhaust and rear suspension. Knowing that I might have to cut a grove in the muffle and TIG weld it back for axle nut clearance. But I got lucky and didn’t need to do it. The two mount bolts “ rear most factory location “ allowed me to loosen the muffler and roll it away from the axle nut just enough to clear it. It seems to be 50/50 on people having the issue or not.

@@firemoto227 awesome thank you for the response. Looks amazing. I think Ill be going forward the the same install.

@@CoreyLucas-c6k right on! Just let me know if you have any other questions.

None of these parts in this video are from Harley. The bushing I used , are from the drag specialties fork rebuild kit www.jpcycles.com/product/drag-specialties-49mm-fork-leg-rebuild-kit-for-harley-2014-2022?sku_id=10230675

@ thank you sir. Just ordered them for mine when I go do it lol

@ right on ! Let me know if you have any trouble, I’ll help you as much as I can.

@@teddyvargas9511 happy to help! Thank you for the comment.

@@jerrylinton1 so at first glance that’s what I thought. But the point the linkage mounts to the “ shifter arm end “ is hard fixed to the actual shifter arm. So moving that mount point forward “ shorting the rod “ actually tilts the shift arm down, opposite of what I want. Hopefully my explanation makes sense 🤣

@@Rvzoo310 thank you!

@@Skin441 nope, original break lines still. No need to change them.

Definitely is personal preference. After installing these, I rode 16 hours straight, Ohio to Florida “ 1,000 “ miles, I didn’t notice any more vibrations over the stock setup. Wonder if it’s peg / mini floor board related? That was another reason I didn’t go with other Mid controls. A lot of them mount to the engine, I figured I’d definitely feel vibrations that way.

It was a good amount. Definitely takes a few times to get a good grip, and pull and push and screw it in all at once.

@@geedubb-q1u I agree. While I’ve done the fishing line in the past, I find this way being the easiest.

@@stetson3679 didn’t take anything out. All you have to do is hold the T/C button on the left side for a few seconds while the bike is running and at a complete STOP. You’ll see the T/C light stay lite on the tack “ not flashing “ and you’re good to go. If you want it back on, just click the button and it’s back to normal.

Thank you ! Those are the Kraus 10” with the FX bars they sell. I’ve had them for a few years now. Best bars I’ve ever had. The best part is the bushing is up in the head part of the risers ( VS ) other bars keeping it down by the triple tree. Having it this way, makes for a firm connection but also eliminates 99% road vibrations, rides like a Cadillac. Also if you want to change the height, you can simple buy shorter or longer tubes they sell and swap it out in about 15 minutes. I’ve got 8 “ tubes I’m going to try out and they cost less than a $100… So technically I have 10” t-bars and 8” t-bars whenever I want.

Here’s a link to the lift I use. www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5047-Motorcycle-Scissors/dp/B0196PAYP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?crid=3BAJGXI15HKRO&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.muPCsfNdB9atzieYYEEC7txYqzYJrs4EHXJlCb7F_Qq_BYukXdZFQFwB5eMWYvFxhaKOFrK6FIPKQuS6cpU87OJW3W0rTQHxlHQ-CgsZDX66xUVaI9Aq-xXR5bcpZQuw-Od8E8_F5wzQpiwLuoC-xTK7Aqfu_LEcrVfSc4Wj4iWjH_yfw4q_7fUB6w-muhlenXcFHUoBtGo7jsEcVcuPzw.jsxkMZOnaSxXN1cvxZEAoxBH1aKAYrSUY03VT0pqBrk&dib_tag=se&keywords=motorcycle+lift&qid=1723646373&sprefix=motorcycle+lift+%2Caps%2C460&sr=8-28

@@pecosray thank you !

@@torah57mitch sounds like my video helped you out some, that’s awesome. Let me know if there’s anything else I could help with. Here’s a link for the already cut saddle bag lower supports so you don’t have to cut your stock ones if you don’t want to. Just do some double checking on fitment and quality. I can’t vouch for them since I just cut my stock ones. www.amazon.com/Saddlebag-Supports-Davidson-2014-2021-SaddleBags/dp/B0937L1H3R/ref=asc_df_B0937L1H3R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15931253628844540702&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011736&hvtargid=pla-2281435177658&psc=1&mcid=b86bee53939d362193a5500797cad4ba&hvocijid=15931253628844540702-B0937L1H3R-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

@@MagicCarnival39 thanks !

Thank you!

Thanks ! Honestly if you aren’t having issues with the forks “ leaking “ or “ lack of performance “, I’d just leave them alone. If they start to leak or the dust covers dry out or fail, then I’d suggest a fork rebuild being done. New oil, fork seals, dust covers and copper crush washer would do the trick. As far as the sanding goes, look up crosshatching forks to reduce stiction. It’s been a thing for a long time, definitely a good read.

Thanks ! It’s an easy way of giving the bike a different look for sure.

Think you have me mixed up with someone that commented haha. All good. So I’ve been sanding ( cross hatching ) fork tubes for awhile now. I learned it from an old timer awhile back in my motocross days. Long story short, new seals and new tubes essentially don’t work super well together because they will tend to stick. Cross hatching allows for them to slide better. Also allows for microscopic amounts of fork oil to get into the scratch’s and keep things lubed. You’ll never notice it with the naked eye, if it’s done correctly. This is a very deep hole of a subject amongst gear head racers, and even online. I’d suggest anyone to do some homework on it still if they don’t already know about it.

Thanks ! It’s a long expensive process for sure. Have more new parts on since this video. Also have a few more videos that I still need to edit and upload. Coming soon!

Good catch ! I think I might have just assumed, and we all know what comes from that 😂. Thanks for the video compliment. I gave your channel a sub !

I sure do. www.denniskirk.com/motion-pro/49mm-ringer-fork-seal-driver-08-0679.p284680.prd/284680.sku?gad_source=1&cid=17923638713&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn7mwBhCiARIsAGoxjaJUDX-lcKpGw-j5iVuf9YG--EWK7yHkSGCK2a31RB10gcHm53oFeGsaAsUsEALw_wcB

Hasn’t happened yet. Time will tell, I’ve only put a couple hundred miles on it since the install. I will definitely update the channel if it becomes an issue.

Santoro fabworx definitely makes a bar for a CVO model bike. Just make sure you pick the right one if you’re gonna go with the CVO fairing.

I totally understand. I appreciate the feedback, TH-cam videos are definitely new to me. Currently working on the next video and hope to have it up in the next day or two. Thank you for the SUB !

Thanks !

I’m not to sure if I’m gonna keep them or not. If I do, most likely I’ll mount them on the new front bar towards the frame. The LP6 head lights are insanely bright, so I’ll probably just point these more to the side for ditch lights. I’ll definitely update on those light in my next video upload.

@@firemoto227 Damn shame you spent money and time mounting them and end up not utlitze them...

@@bradlozano2571it’s all good. If I don’t end up using them I can install them on my truck.

Saw a guy drill and tap the crash bar to hang the lights

No problem. Just let me know if you have any issues or questions.