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I have an isuzu rodeo 1992 3.1 tbi and mine idles good but at lower rpm start surging the rpm over 2k rpm works well

Complete waste of a video never showed how to remove the bulb

I know it’s been a while, but I wanna thank you for the video. Also not sure if that gonna fixed my problem but one of them for sure going to give it a try seeing how I’ve done almost everything else. take care and thanks again Ps weird thing is I’m not getting any computer codes And I’m getting a kick out at 2000 RPMs so if you do get this message, I have tried everything to fix that problem Starting to open wire harnesses, but so far haven’t found any problems 😝 From what I understand, it is a 95 and 96 issue believe me I have tried almost everything if you may have had an issue like this in the past I would sure appreciate You’re wisdom on it. 🍻 be cool out there.

Had the same problem! Soaked it with penetrating oil for 10 days and didn’t work! Broke 3 t50! So I borrowed my buddies Heat induction bolt buster! It came off with no effort

Good review 👍🏼

Where did you get the headers to buy, searching everywhere for my 1996 d21 and I can’t find it

Wow...what were they thinking?? It was WAY easier on my 2011 Escape.

Guys, just become someone says this works for them all the time, doesn't mean its the best way to do it. Air is still getting in everytime he releases the pedal, no matter how fast you release it. The best way is to have someone else pump it a few times and then hold the pedal down as you tighten it back up.

But, you didn't show how to get the bulb out of the socket. I can't get both hands on it and I don't want to break it. I just need to know how it is attached.

Lost my starter bolts after clutch replacement Lucky I found a bolt in junk box after hrs. had right thread purchased two cut grinded made my own. The things we do keeping our loves ❤ running

Thank you. My 87 k10 has been fighting me for a couple of years, replaced the 02 sensor a few years ago and didn't think it was causing the problem that you just showed me

The 2013 Ford Escape is by far one of the worst designed vehicles I have ever had the displeasure of owning. What a POS design. Thanks for your video.

Can this be the reason why my truck stalls out when coming to a stop ?

Replace the TXV on the ACsystem.

I just fixed this by simply buying a ford motor craft thermostat. I used an aftermarket when I changed the coolant and had this problem for a year before figuring it out. It’s so nice to not hear that fan go on all the time

thermostat replace with motorcraft

My truck started doing this same thing this morning what was the fix

That's it! You're effing hilarious! How do you get the bulb out? Ford can go screw on this BS!

Releasing the pedal with the valve open is sucking air in the system not a good way to bleed your brakes

How to remove blinker bulb from holder

Just did it in my 2011 Town & Country! Thank you!

This is my problem

I like the wood trim on that interior.

yea idk how tf his shit was so easy i can’t even get that bitch ass back bolt out yet i’m still fighting for my life rn

Stop binging

For the left one I just removed the air filter box and you can access it that way. 10 min. i uploaded a video of it. 2013 escape easy front left signal light replace

Just leave the O2 sensor un-plugged,,,,,, job finished. Move on to next car

What are you using to read live data for the OBD1 style? I have a 92 Chevy G20 TBI and I would love to get live data from the engine

I have a 93 with the 5.7 it idles rough until warm then after about 1 min it runs smoothly any ideas i have changed temp and IAC as well as plugs.

What a pain

Mine ran fine without an o2 Sensor my problem was my temp sensor on the front of the intake, I replaced both temp and o2

Great video. Thanks for sharing

The fact that I had to watch half a dozen videos before finding this shows just how much Big Brake Bleeding Tools is working to block the obviously correct way to do this. Why have special tools when it can be done without?

Great, now I have to buy a welder. lol

My 4.7L was stalling when coming to a stop sometimes. Changed the TPS and that fixed it.

How do you even take the bulb out? Probably the easiest part but i haven't found one video of that. Pull it straight out once it's been removed but isn't there something holding it in?

Great content but the shadows in the poor lighting made identifying things difficult.

Hey man I was just curious how we're you able to read diagnostics with modern scaner?

I recently had to replace the battery on my 2014 escape. Although it was doable it was equally involved with removing other parts to get to the battery. Ford engineers have done a wonderful job designing the car so that you need to take it to a dealership were labour charges will be ridiculous because of time to do the repair. Total win for Ford total loss for the customer

I hit a friggin' deer. This vid should help me fix r up. Thx.

Forrd escape is the most asinine vehicle... I need to change my blinker... No problem remove the wheel, fender, from the bumper ... I need to change the battery... No problem just take the wipers off and remove the cover..

If you arm is small enough, you can reach in from the top and change the bulb with one hand. My wife just did it. You don’t have to remove anything. It’s not easy though

So that’s it ,,,

Whoever designed this car sucks

I will save a lot of time for everyone: go under the car. I was able to swap out bulbs on both sides in about a minute. I used my 6” ramps to make it easier, but my big butt could easily get under there without them.

it gonna be even bettter if u first showed the car type

Aren't u supposed to keep the reservoir lid open while doing this? New fluid won't get in otherwise, as u are creating a vaccum in the reservoir.

Thank you, thank you, you have saved my day, may God bless you and your family and give you more wisdom and knowledge.

just curious, what was your welder settings. great video

They are TORX PLUS BOLTS, not torx. either way. stupid design.