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I think there is a lot of pressure on there workers to get around a lot of jobs. Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻

Great News

@@sarahatkinson5619 no worries glad to help

👍🏻

Power the boiler off and on from the switch, the diverter may be sat wrong..if this doesn’t help you may need a new filling link.. if you already have pressure in the boiler and it’s just you live in a low pressure area so you haven’t the pressure in the mains to get to 1 bar then turn another cold tap on and off fast. The sudden stop of water causes a spike in pressure.. hope this makes sense

There may be a braided silver hose style filling loop somewhere on the system… near the gauge usually

Keys not fully located, put some washing up liquid on the rubbers and try again… make sure the key lines up before pushing up

@GHancock thank you so much for your response ❤️

You cold put a lever valve on the outlet, top of cylinder and see it you get back feed, but you can also see if it's pipes in wrong… you could install a reducing valve on the mains incoming to the house before any tees see if that stops it

Yes,pin holes although rare, can happen, the pressure in your heating water will go up even without heating and the filling loop disconnected. there are boilers without secondary heat exchanger ie intergas, but in hard water areas you can not simply change the heat exchanger if scaled up. Thanks for watching

Should clean the trap, and set co2 minimum.. but every 5 years make sure you get a full strip down.. but expect to pay more. If it’s left to long the baffle will not come out or burner gasket will fail.

Just turn the dial up and it will override until it's next change time… no 1hr button on it

If it shot up to fast.. or shoots up when it heats. The pressure vessel may be gone. If simply you left it open to long then try venting the radiators to bring down the pressure would be the first move

You shouldn’t add more water if it’s going into the red…if you’ve overdone it then you can let pressure out via a pine in a radiator.. if it starts off at 1 bar and hits 3 bar when heated, then the vessels gone and it’s time to bring in a heating engineer

You’d only have to do this every 5 years…so it’s not to bad to sell..beats them having a new heat exchanger

@@GHancock yes that is correct I normally do it every 4 years

I do, but the Baxi is a great boiler and a solution for an application where a pump overrun is not possible

Yep, a pressure reducing valve on the mains is often the solution, it’s not perfect because when using cold water you are robbing pressure from the 3bar rather than the higher pressure but it is often the solution

How do you sit on a check valve on the HW outlet to eliminate back pressure? There appears to be two schools of thought on it

Doesn’t hurt, it’s no more dangerous than turning off a tap, it will put a little strain on shower/tap component as the pipe work cools down it may cause a vacuum..but you still need the pressure reducing valve or the higher pressure can cause issues in mixing as the cold dominates

Noted..👍🏻

Auto will vary to the Times you set… the full thermometer will hold at you're set on/high temperature permanent

Mainly the CDI and He that built there reputation, but I have a lot of these ticking over at 16plus years without to much trouble, plus Worcester was the first to make a down loading burner whilst all the others messed around with condensing exchanger added to up existing design, I like Baxi too..but I can pick fault with every manufacturer.. so after service becomes the key as well as good manufacturing. Every Engineer has to push the product he believes in.

Glad to help 👍🏻

Best to have the heating off, as the system should be cold for accurate reading.. you won’t need to turn the mains off, just the demand

@@GHancock thanks for getting back really appreciate it

Keys not fully located

Allow yourself a 3hr time slot just incase, you can strip them down in half hour when things go smoothly.. but sometimes everything bonded in so tightly

Let’s hope it works 👍🏻

The key may not be fully located, put some washing up liquid on the rubbers and try again

Not pressure problem if it's. In the green, change the batteries in your thermostat maybe.. Then call someone in. The key will not stop it firing

Thankyou for your reply. Yes we got a plumber in the end. Thanks for your help!

More likely to be higher pressure coming backwards th-cam.com/video/GYIg9tXdD1o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OIrSnoNlsuwPXKfe

No, it's anti clockwise.. It opens the same way as every normal tap. Remember it's facing upwards.. Go to your garden tap and see which way your turning it.. This is the same way. Thanks for watching

But you have just twisted it to the right. If it’s right then it’s clockwise…. I’m so confused

Great news well done

You are correct, the front slider you will only move when setting and the side only for flicking to permanent on, off or timed (auto)

You've not located the White key fully, pop some lube like washing up liquid on the rubbers and try again.. Take time to line the unlock symbol with the arrow

Thanks for the feedback

Glad it helped

No, not on this one. . The fire has a built in air gap which suck in from the bottom and comes out the top keeping the back cooler

It should stay on continuously if you select it