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How do you even break a bedframe?😭

Thank you for sharing this.

Did you have to use a special "strong but flexible" type of wood for the slat? I ust broke one of mine.

Would a black garden hose not be easier to use? I suppose it would break down faster... but easier to work with?

Almost stopped watching when you said you had a sedan. I'm glad i stuck around! Great video.

more expensive but glass is much better for trapping the IR inside, also use insulation on the bottom and sides ?

nice!

What's the skin

👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻 excellent job!!!. Thank you

I built three of them about 14 years ago for an inside swimming pool

How much did all of the materials cost in total?

I can't save it to a list to watch later and can't watch it now. Why do you tubers remove the add to playlist button? I don't understand.

I built this almost exact unit as a pool heater with my dad in 1980. We used copper pipes.

Great video! 5 years later, how’s it holding up?

what do you get on a 50°F day

Make a double greenhouse effect. So put it into another glass enclosure and it might get even hotter.

Great job and nicely edited video. Also, love your workshop!

It's not metric. It's useless since the conception :D

What is the tool you used to put the mood in the broken place?

WOW! THIS IS AWESOME THANK YOU for sharing...

I have two suggestions about the unit itself. First, if you were to feel the back (underside) of the collector on a sunny day, I could all but guarantee that it is hotter than young love. If you insulate that with a piece of foil faced 2" EPS foam, you would retain more heat inside the chamber. Secondly, use either a high temp caulk or gasket around the perimeter of your clear sheeting by doing this--along with a top piece of trim--will seal the heat inside the chamber and keep the warping to a minimum. The recommendation of a thicker sheet by another viewer is definitely a better choice, but the best would be one layer of tempered, not coated glass. Great video. I was frustrated with you in the beginning stage. I wanted to be able to tell you how to uncoil the tubing and that laying it in from the top was really the only way to do it. Thanks again for a good watch!

No need this much labor just don't do it on the bed next time do it on the floor or kitchen 😂

Great work 🙌🏻🙏🏼

Great job! Personally, I would have left the replacement rail section at full width (after cutting it to length). No one would see the difference and it would be stronger (just not as pretty).

How would you remove that whole wood piece on which the slat sides are resting? Is it glued to the frame?

who is this guy, he should be a full time streamer! ;)

After your video i went and got one😊

Tell him stop jumping in the bed!!!

interesting game ,

Solid clips!

Nice work

Well done my guy! Need to warm a pool tho...

I'm sorry to have to say this but, you make the most common mistakes of the DIY crowd and a lot of professionals too! You could easily but maybe not inexpensively but expensive can pay back faster, increase your efficiency and output by anywhere from 50% - ~100%. You make the same mistakes the pop-can solar air heaters do, so I'll try to explain so everyone can understand what makes a good solar collector and heater! There are just 4 things to remember when designing and building any solar heater: 1) heat will always flow to cold, never the opposite direction 2) the colour "black" absorbs the most amount of thermal radiation 3) the thinner a material is, the faster it conducts heat from one side to the other 4) every substance has a different ability to transmit heat know as Thermal Conductivity The biggest problem with designs for solar collectors is understand where and in what direction the heat is going to flow and trying to bare in mind where we want that heat to flow to. In this case, we want to collect solar heat radiation and transmit that heat to a volume of water. We know that the colour black absorbs the greatest range of Infrared Radiation, so anything we want to heat up, should be painted black but only those surfaces that we want to heat up, not any surface that is not in touch with the water, because once radiation strikes a black surface other than the solar conductor, that heat is lost and can never help to heat the water. The interior and exterior of the cabinet should never be painted black because every IR photon that strikes is absorbed and can do nothing to heat the water, which is what we are trying to do here. By painting the cabinet black you are encouraging the enclosure to become heated and dried out and that is a fire hazard, under the wrong conditions. The only thing that should be painted black is the solar collector tube. The enclosure should be lined with aluminum foil to reflect any arrant heat photons and send them back to the collector and keep them bouncing back and forth until they do get absorbed where we want them to be, in the water we want to heat. You use a PVC plastic pipe as your solar heat collector which is already black so you don't have to paint it and although it may be convenient work with, if you are doing all this work you might as well make it pay for itself, even if it cost a little bit more, you'll have the improvements forever. The Thermal conductivity of PVC plastic is about 0.25 W/mK, where as the thermal conductivity of copper is about 401 W/mK, or you could say that a copper pipe would transfer heat to water, 1604 times faster than the PVC pipe you are using. Which means that with a copper pipe collector you can get 1604 times more heat and since solar energy tends to be intermittent when it is there at all, it is important to take full advantage when it is! There are various ways to build a solar collector but if you use soft copper tubing, you can probably get it already in a coil so you don't even need to fight with it. If you made your solar collector from soft copper and painted it with a solar absorbent paint designed for maximum absorption (or just flat black works too) and lined you cabinet with aluminum foil you could produce a great deal more hot water. The temperature increase of the water is less important than the amount of water heated but bare in mind you only have about one Kilowatt of heat / square meter, at Noon, when the Sun is directly over head, on a perfectly clear day, at the Equator and only the surface of the copper pipe facing the Sun can collect heat... There really isn't much there to work with, so we have to maximize our return if it is going to be worthwhile in the long run. Good Luck! and I hope this will help the DIYs out there to get even more enjoyment out of their projects! Go for it!

looks like fun

So many mistakes, basic mistakes, I can't even comment on that content. You should not consider yourself as a carpenter.

interestng game

nice

Parallel runs, a sealed and insulated reservoir. That will optimize your result.

Great work. 👍👍

love to see it good stuff

as its been 3 years, how long did this last before the tubes broke down by UV?

Great job , just some thoughts , putting a few square meters of aluminium foil on the back wall will help a lot 8:57 , and I see two AC units , insteat of pumping heat into the air the heat exchangers could be modified to harvest the heat into water

Next project, make a circular box for the coil 😄

Mostly followed this. Used 8 lengths of electric fence ribbon in pairs (across, vertical, and diagonals) to weave above and below each pass of pipe. It was easy, fast, cheap, and very secure.

What type of nails did you use to drill into the planks? I think that’s the name of them

If you can keep the tubing in the sun as much as you can before you start working with it, or run some warm to hot water through the tubing really helps if flex n bend, you welcome

Dude!!!! The way you used that table saw made me CRINGE!!!! Keep your hands away from the blade and never lean over it… YEIKS!!!

Is there anyway you could build this and connect it to your pool pump and equipment? So that you don’t have hoses all along your pool deck?

what about the hard water?

How to stop it from over heating my hot tub? I made one and it got my sauna (hot tub) up from 53 degrees to over 105 and the weather is still only 75 degrees outside. I can manually watch and turn the pump off when the weather gets really hot, but will the water boil in the solar collector? Should I let the water drain out of the tubes when I turn it off? Do you know an inexpensive sensor that will turn the pump off when the tub gets to a certain temperature? Thanks.