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EJH British cars
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2020
Repairs and improvements on several types of 50's through 70's British cars.
Reviews of some fairly common automotive repair type tools.
Reviews of some fairly common automotive repair type tools.
1965 Chevrolet C20 Pick-Up.Ignition Switch Replacement.
The Ignition Switch has been acting up so it is time to replace it.
มุมมอง: 65
วีดีโอ
1965 Chevrolet C20 Pick-Up Heater Core Replacement.
มุมมอง 71วันที่ผ่านมา
Winter is upon us so it is time to replace the old plugged up heater core in my 1965 Chevy Truck. My truck has the "Economy Heater".
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 13-D Steering Linkage Installation.
มุมมอง 6814 วันที่ผ่านมา
I rebuilt and cleaned and painted the steering linkage so now it is time to reinstall it into the TR2 Project.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 13-C Steering Box Installation.
มุมมอง 7621 วันที่ผ่านมา
Now that the Steering Box is all cleaned up and new seals have been installed, it is time to bolt it back into the car.
1970 Rover P6 3500S NADA Spec. Fuel.Pump Replacement.
มุมมอง 49หลายเดือนก่อน
The fuel pump in the Rover stopped working the other day so I purchased an aftermarket replacement from JEGS.com. I will show you the modifications needed to install in the factory position and the final product all buttoned up.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 13-B Steering Box Internal Inspection and reassembly.
มุมมอง 97หลายเดือนก่อน
It is raining so I am taking a break from bodywork (YEA) so I decided to disassemble the steering box/column and make sure all is well. We will need to replace the oil seal and gaskets and check the adjustments as well.
Central Pneumatics (Harbor Freight) 4 oz Adjustable Detail Paint Gun. Item 92126
มุมมอง 350หลายเดือนก่อน
I picked up one of these "Touch-Up" guns the other day, so I thought I would test it out on the inner fender of my TR2 project. I was sadly disappointed.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 20-C Radiator Fan Rebuild and Installation.
มุมมอง 145หลายเดือนก่อน
I found a "Tropical" fan (6 Bladed). It is also the harmonic balancer so we need to replace the damping rubber inserts and balancing hardware and then install it on the TR2 Engine.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration A Quick Update.
มุมมอง 2132 หลายเดือนก่อน
Body work continues which is not very interesting to film or watch so just a quick walk around the car to show you where we are with the restoration.
Car Corral at the Hershey Fall Meet 2024
มุมมอง 1362 หลายเดือนก่อน
A short video of a few interesting cars and motorcycles at the fall Hershey AACA Swap Meet.
East Broad Top Railway Ride
มุมมอง 812 หลายเดือนก่อน
We went to the Broad TOp Railway recently and took a ride on their Steam Tarin. It was great.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 33-C Front fender Repairs and Paint prep.
มุมมอง 882 หลายเดือนก่อน
It is time to get the front fenders ready to paint. I will need to straighten out all the dents, weld up several large cracks, and weld in a new lower section to the rear portion of the fender.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 33-B Remounting the Body Tub
มุมมอง 3402 หลายเดือนก่อน
At long last it is time to place the completed body tub back on the frame.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration, Part 23-E. Fabricating an OverDrive Transmission Mount.
มุมมอง 863 หลายเดือนก่อน
The OverDrive Transmission Mount is about 3/4" further back than the 4 Speed unit was so I need to fabricate a new mounting plate to accommodate it.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration Part 34-B, Hooking Engine Stuff Back Up..
มุมมอง 963 หลายเดือนก่อน
now that the engine/Transmission is back in it's rightful home it is time to start connecting bits and pieces prior to installing the body tub.
1955 Triumph TR2 Part 34. Engine Installation and an Update.
มุมมอง 1533 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Part 34. Engine Installation and an Update.
Pittsburgh Brand Tire Changer (Harbor Freight) #58731 Review Part 2.
มุมมอง 3403 หลายเดือนก่อน
Pittsburgh Brand Tire Changer (Harbor Freight) #58731 Review Part 2.
1970 Rover P6 3500S NADA Spec. Master cylinder rebuild.
มุมมอง 1184 หลายเดือนก่อน
1970 Rover P6 3500S NADA Spec. Master cylinder rebuild.
1970 Rover P6 3500 S NADA Spec. De Dion Rear Axle Suspension Link Re-bush.
มุมมอง 854 หลายเดือนก่อน
1970 Rover P6 3500 S NADA Spec. De Dion Rear Axle Suspension Link Re-bush.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 33-A Front Cowl and Engine Bay Paint.
มุมมอง 844 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 33-A Front Cowl and Engine Bay Paint.
WARSUN Inflatable Paint Booth 14' x 10' x 8.5'. Unboxing and setting up with a quick walk-through.
มุมมอง 1934 หลายเดือนก่อน
WARSUN Inflatable Paint Booth 14' x 10' x 8.5'. Unboxing and setting up with a quick walk-through.
North Bay Triumph Group Aug 11, 2024 Run British Car Run.
มุมมอง 1724 หลายเดือนก่อน
North Bay Triumph Group Aug 11, 2024 Run British Car Run.
TEX Exterior Mirror Swivel Repair and Glass Replacement on 1981 Triumph TR7.
มุมมอง 594 หลายเดือนก่อน
TEX Exterior Mirror Swivel Repair and Glass Replacement on 1981 Triumph TR7.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration Part 33, Underside Paint.
มุมมอง 1745 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration Part 33, Underside Paint.
Doyle (Harbor Freight) 3" Cradle Style Angle Dill Press Vice.
มุมมอง 4535 หลายเดือนก่อน
Doyle (Harbor Freight) 3" Cradle Style Angle Dill Press Vice.
1970 NADA Spec Rover P6. Oil Change, Ball Joint Dust Boot replacement, and Gear Lube level check.
มุมมอง 2775 หลายเดือนก่อน
1970 NADA Spec Rover P6. Oil Change, Ball Joint Dust Boot replacement, and Gear Lube level check.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32-C Rot Hole Repair and Paint Prep for the Rear Deck.
มุมมอง 1576 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32-C Rot Hole Repair and Paint Prep for the Rear Deck.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32-B Welding in the Rear Deck Repair Panel.
มุมมอง 1846 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32-B Welding in the Rear Deck Repair Panel.
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32 Rear Deck (Saddle) Repair Panel Fabrication and Installation.
มุมมอง 3196 หลายเดือนก่อน
1955 Triumph TR2 Restoration. Part 32 Rear Deck (Saddle) Repair Panel Fabrication and Installation.
Italia-Palooza Santa Rosa CA. Fun Run June 13, 2024
มุมมอง 616 หลายเดือนก่อน
Italia-Palooza Santa Rosa CA. Fun Run June 13, 2024
thanks EJH. Brought back memories. Our '67 MGBGT (bought new in Dec '66 and we still have it) was short of heat for a Saskatchewan winter. A pal had put a Ford heater into his TR3A so I got one from a '59 Ford car and mounted it over the passenger footwell. Modified the 3 speed blower from the Ford to fit beside the core. Lots of heat for our second winter with the car, but the passenger's feet got very warm. The water feed was parallel to the factory heater. John, now in Manitoba.
I had not heard of this modification before. I cam indrrsyand why you meeded it with those side curtains. I can remember driving to Hamilton Ontario in theclate fall with a constant draft through them, not to mention the rattle right next to your ear. Thanks for watching.
@@ejhbritishcars6907 this is a GT so no side curtain issues. Just plain cold and the factory fan was not strong enough to keep the windscreen clear. Like VWs, you started a drive looking through a little oval of clear glass at the bottom of the windscreen. And a scraper in your right hand in steady use.
The blower fans are pretty anemic in Triumphs as well. Fortunately, it does not get too cold around here.
Do you have a spare power rack and pinion for a tr8 for sale
I do have a spare rack, but I'm not sure I would want to sell it. It was hard to find and expensive.
@ I found one for $600 from a guy who sells on the triumph experience. I’m in Cali too . Central coast
I paid about $500 for mine several years ago, so his price does not seem out of line.
@ just got done replacing all the seals in mine. Inner tie rods still in good shape so I’m good 🙏
Your bike is an awsome Machine. I hope you enjoy many many years and some all the best brother
Thank you for the kind words. Happy Holidays and Ride On.
Another very informative video. I am watching and hopefully learning as you restore and build
Thank you for the kind words. Happy Holiday's.
I am working a datsun 260 and my pops procured a similar model brake. I appreciate the review and I look forward to your future works.
I am glad that the video was helpful. Good luck with your project.
Coming along nicely !
It has been a long haul. It is nice to be reassembling things again instead of a steady diet of welding and sanding. Thanks for watching.
Another good video. Thanks.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Great truck and video
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. It is hard to believe that I have owned it for almost 30 years now. Thanks for watching.
@ I’m working on my 65 c30 panel gotta do my turn switch this week. Keep the update videos coming please
I have a heater core video coming up soon.
Thanks, great video. I love your calm and easy way of showing how it’s all done. Off to do mine now on my Triumph 2000.
I'm glad it helped. Not that tough a job, really. Thanks for watching.
I have read these may not be serviced and as such not disassembled. The pressure valves are clogged quite commonly after long stand still.
It wa quite easy to disassemble and clean.. I had to replace this one later as the Body casting cracked along a stress point. Thanks for watching.
thanks - so as far as you could tell the box was in good condition and nothing was replaced. I remember trying to adjust the box on our early TR2 a long time ago and it didn't seem to make much difference to play. Just got harder to turn if tightened too much. Lots go to the rack and pinion conversion - perhaps for less play and easier turning - but doing something about the box on our car is quite far down the list. Will await the report on how it steers when you are done when compared to a TR4 with rack and pinion. John in chilly Manitoba.
I did replace the seals and gsskets. There was a lot of greasy dirt between the arm and the box as well, which may have been adding drag. The bushing seemed fine, and there was no excessive wear on the cam. Mostly, I wanted to onspect the inside workings as I have never driven the car to know how the steering felt. Thanks for watching.
Interesting video. Thanks for posting it.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Nice job!
Thank You,
I have one and like it. It stopped working and I found out that it just needed to be topped up with hydraulic oil. Just remove the black allen screw plug and top it up, it does not take much and worked fine after that.
Good to know. I will keep that in mind. Thanks for watching.
I have had one of those guns since 2008 for a project of painting some kitchen cabinets . I had a regulator and air dryer . It was $14.99 Really good for cheap .
Sounds like you have thecregular size gun, which is the same price. This is more like an airbrush. It would be difficult to paint a large area as the soray pattern is fairly small.
Harbor Freight is tool heaven. I'm one of their best customers.
They just opened a store about 1 mile away from my house. I am starting yo think that they should hive me a time card.
Wrap the exhaust pipe to keep the heat off the trans and the person riding shotgun.
I usually insulate the underside of the transmission cover to prevent exhaust and drive-train heat from entering the cockpit.
@@ejhbritishcars6907 But that doesn't protect the trans.
With the airflow under the car I don't think that is an issue. The trans generates quite a bit of heat during operation regardless of the exhaust and is not particularly heat sensitive. Certainly a passengers leg, in a LHD car, is a lot more vulnerable to the discomfort of heat in the 120 degree range than the transmission.
thanks EJH. You were hard to understand when speaking with the mask on. You should take the gun back to Harbour for a refund. But I appreciated the demo of painting technique. I just bought a Princess Auto (the Canadian Harbour Freight) HVLP gun new in box at an auction for $25 Cdn. I hope it works better than your's. John in Manitoba.
I looked at my other guns, and in all cases, the metering rod projects through the inner nozzle. This gun's rod is about a 1/16" recessed. I think that is what the issue is. I am thinking about working on that area to see if the cures it. Sorry about the audio quality. I'm not sure what I could do to improve it as the mic will not fit inside the mask. Thanks for wstching.
thanks EJH. Our early 2 (TS 394) has the 4 blade. I have never heard of the tropical fan. Besides 2 more blades, the blade pitch is more aggressive than on ours. I wonder how much horsepower it takes at 3500 rpm ? Looks like it would move a lot of air. John in Manitoba and winter arrived today.
I don't expect that it takes much more power. I'd be surprised if it was enough to notice in regular road use. Here in California I am much happier with a bit more air movement. I have a "Yellow" fan on my TR4 and it is happy even on the hottest days. The original fan was the 4 small blade type. Even upgrading to the larger 4 bladed fan as used by the factory in later TR4's makes a big difference.
Always look forward to you’re build videos - great work !
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
I never knew how those balance pieces worked. Now I do. Good video.
I was confused by them the first time I saw them as well, but I had a friend who used to race a TR3, and he explained them to me oh so long ago.
Thank you
You're welcome
After the fenders are on would it be a good time to rough in the wire harness ? Nice work !
Yes, it would but not too much difference to add the boot, bonnet and spare tire carrier cover. The front panel should not be in place till the wiring is in place I don't think.
It's coming along nicely.
It is encouraging to see it becoming an autimoble again instead of a pile of parts. Thanks for watching.
Great video by the way. Notice with install my hub is to tight to the wheel and grinding a bit. Any suggestions. Isn't there another steering wheel spring that keeps the wheel centered?
You will need to slacken the column attachment bolts and slide the outer column toward the dash a bit, 1/8 to 1/4 inch so that there is a slight gap between the hub and the top of the column. No other centering springs that I am aware of. It is the caster of the front wheels that create the self centering force in an automotive front end. Thanks for watching.
Presently this 39103 bending brake is on clearance for $29.97, so I bought one and put it to use almost immediately. Bending Stainless Steel is a little more difficult but bending 18ga did very nicely. The Replacement SKU 67240, is a 30" manual unit of similar design now $69.99. I am currently refurbishing a 1970's Chambers GSU 42 gas cooktop, replacing all the plain steel with stainless because of rust. Should look nice when I'm done.
I think the 30" unit is only rated for 22 gauge steel. I have used my brake quite extensively on my TR2 project. It struggles at full width 18 gauge steel but has not let me down yet. Thanks for watching.
Good informative video. I know that I'm going to have to do some metal finishing on my TR3A so it's good to see how you slowly work the metal into shape.
Taking your time is key. I also find that using my fingers is more helpful than just using my eyesight. Thanks for watching.
A ratchet strap around the tire with just a bit of tension, don't need much, will hold the tire enough to fill it with air and set the bead. If you tighten the strap too much, the tire will buckle and fold and you'll hear a massive leak.
I tried that, but the sidewalls were too stiff for it to be effective. Thanks for watching.
You have this right idea bolting it down. Mines bolted down with anchors that sit below the surface. I simply unbolt and store in a corner when not in use. Ive mounted dozens of tires on mine and it saves so much time compared with having to deal with a tire shop. There is a learning curve to the mounting end of the bar, one well worth getting past. A duck bill mod is best really, it saves rims and lets you work with nice alloys.
I have considered the duckbill upgrade but have not purchased one yet. I have been working with old steel wheels as of late, so there is no need at this time. Thanks for watching.
Unbelievable amount of work involved in the repair of these old panels, much more than I ever imagined. Fascinating to see
It has been a lot of work, but replacement fenders are $1,200 plus freight, so it is worth the time and effort. I kind of like keeping asuch of the original car as practical as well. Thanks for watching.
THE ORANGE ONE WOULD BE PERFECT FOR ME AT HOME
I find it quite handy. I have used it several times now and saved myself a bunch of money.
thank you sir love from iran
Thanks for watching.
Easy dawn dish liquid what we use works every time. Use one lap around each side close to the rim, and tire goes right on, and dawn drys, creating a good seal.
The problem with dish washing liquid is that it has salt in it and can rust the bead area of the rim. Thanks for watching.
Good to see the body going onto the frame, starting to look like a TR2 now. Keep up the videos love watching them.
Thank you. It feels good to be putting parts back on for a change. I was getting tired of welding and grinding.
thanks EJH. I wish we lived closer so I could have given you a hand with this stage. I am impressed with the control you get with your lift in that the body can descend very slowly while you look for where it hangs up. Looking forward to what lies ahead. John in Manitoba.
That is the beauty of hydraulics. As the down function is unpowered, you can modulate the speed by how far you open the valve.
That's a big step forward. It's starting to look like a car again.
It feels mice to be putting things back together again.
I know this is old but relevant. Beautiful bike and awesome camera! Just bought a 96 Fxstc off of my brother. He took good care of it. He bought it new late 95. Had to put a new voltage regulator and speedometer today, but all stock and original and after almost 20 years she's perfect. Same color scheme as yours, different logo. Great bikes and that EVO. Just keeps on giving. I also have a 94 FXR and a 98 1200 custom sportster. All EVOs. Beautiful bike. Thanks for the video
It has been a great bike. The only thing that I have had to repair was the stator, I replaced the regulator at the same time. Tires and tune-ups, along with oil changes, and that is about it except for things I wanted to change
thanks EJH. Just catching up after not watching resto vids all summer - long days mean doing other things until bedtime. But now more dark time. Have been building a shed so I will have a place to work on our TR 2 this winter and your vids will be invaluable. Thanks. John in Manitoba.
It is nice to have a dedicated space to work on a project. I am pretty much done with welding now, at least. I might have the odd spot to fix, but all the large panels are installed now. Welcome back to the channel.
Coming along nicely!
It is fun assembling things instead of taking apart and bodywork.
Nice ! Great seeing you’re progress!
It is great to be putting things back together now. Thanks for watching.
Great viaduct but not Nassington. The Nassington viaduct was demolished in 1981 and was less "grand" than this one at Harringworth.
I had wondered where we actually were. We had just been driving around on vacation and stumbled across this viaduct. It truly is impressive. Thanks for watching.
That's a big step forward getting the engine installed. The body looks pretty good too.
Yes, a definite milestone. I am looking forward to installing fenders soon. Thanks for watching.
Nice job. Great camera.
It is my new GoPro 12. The thing that I like best is that you can use a BlueTooth microphone so no adapter hanging off the back of the camera. Thanks for watching.
Love the red colour car definitely looking good.
It is a very pretty colour for the style of this car.
Was curious how your driving the speedometer?
I used a Dakota Digital Speedometer. Here is the link to the video th-cam.com/video/P-6SUqwkPJQ/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for Watching.
@ejhbritishcars6907 nice one, I have a p6b with a 4hp-22 in it too. Thanks from NZ
The transmission made a huge difference. It made freeway driving much more relaxed with the overdrive 4th gear and is a far superior transmission to the old BW unit.
Eastwood has a perfect panel tool,, looks the same but chimps a V-edge on panels for weld too lay in ,, much better tool if you do quality metal work and don't like alot of body filler,, l love mine and never did like are use the lap tool,, it was shot after a few chrimps it's made with soft metal and won't last
I am not familiar with that tool. I will have to check it out. Thanks for watching.
Those handles just sit in the holes so you can remove them if you have two bends coming together in a corner.
I just added a couple of set screws so they would not fall and get lost. They are still readily removable. Thanks for watching.
Great video, rebuilding my fuel pump tomorrow.
They are pretty easy to rebuild, though sometimes you will find that someone in the past used a different year pump. Thankscforcwatching.
i bought a bead blaster too. love blasting tires on!
I have used it several times now and am amazed at how well it works. I struggled for years without it. I wish I had bought one sooner. Thanks for watching.
i have changed dozens of tires with mine. that bar tool needs to have the edges rounded and sanded smooth. i use silicone spray for lubricant, the tires absorb it no problem.
I will have to try the silicone spray. It sounds like a good remedy for fast drying lubrication. My bar seems to be fairly smooth. I will take a closer look at it and see if sanding will help. I have added a pipe to the central section as mine was starting to bend. It is much stronger now and makes using it much easier by not having to worry about damaging the bar. I used an old section of 1 1/2 galvanized pipe as used for drainage in older houses. Thanks for watching.
@@ejhbritishcars6907 my bar got bent changing my ford 250 tires. modern tires lose their elasticity and crack much faster than they use to. before i seal a tire i spray the interior with silicone.