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I like to drive 1/10 touringcar again but the hobby is dead in the netherlands. No indoortracks or shop for parts

You can use ride height gauge also for the down stop without the 10mm blocks if you have a flat surface..

I never thought about weighing tyres, though running TCs, I can fully understand why knowing this can make a difference. I’m running in the Tamiya class at WLRC so I’m guessing this won’t make much of an impact due to the ‘brick’ style design and handling of TT01e, though I’ve recently started swapping tyres around (so left and right sides). I picked up an old Schumacher TC (Mi1) so was thinking of having a go at the 17.5 blinky class at Iconic this year …but I know I have to look at what is and isn’t permitted. As you can imagine, your vids are proving very helpful 👍

Thanks for the video. In addition it will be more effective if you remove the protection shields of the bearings.

Thank you for the video. Don't you balance your wheels?

Q: Do you use a gyro, and if so, which one?

What are you using to discharge your batteries at 3C between races

Thanks for the tips

Brilliant, thank you. Out of interest, do you run a wet car and a dry car?

Your video are very helpful and well explained 👏🏽 thank you.

Where did you say you get the setup sheets from?

Hi. I do not have a wheel arc gauge, so can you tell me the diameter of the wheel arcs, so I can measure then out in a circle without the tool? ;) Ty, and great video btw! Very informative and helpful!

What a beautiful video. Thank you for sharing your techniques

Your videos are extremely helpful, I just subscribed.

Thank you, I learned so much from your videos. I have a question. After setting up camber and toe, what can be a possible reason why a car leans to one side? Mine is usually leaning towards the right side. This is even after setting the camber and the toe correctly. What Im doing is just adjust the trim on my transmitter. But I want to know the reason why is it still not straight. What are your thoughts?

Hi Simon. Iam racing 17.5 stock with hobbywing xerun xr10 combo. What battery can you recommend for smaller size outdoor asphalt track with apx 10-15 meter straights. I would like to get good practice time. Multiple 5 min runs if possible. Iam not racing competitively. Only for fun. I was thinking of the IP battery with 7000mAh. Do you know how long I will be able to practice with a battery like this? Its affortable, so I could potentially buy two.

sir what the meaning of 150C? in ur sample is 3C but some batteries 150C/70C

You are really really tryharding for a non pro. But good stuff. I have my doubt in how much difference some of the things you do, like taken of excess tire and weighting your tires.. weighing your tires before you file and sand them doesn’t really make sense when the weight difference is so tiny from factory. I also find your comment weird about heating cycles/life of a tire. If heating them make them even softer than just using additives then go for it. But in the end heat doesn’t result in better traction, softness of the tires does. But yes higher temps in tires will most likely make them a bit softer for the first few laps of a race. Outdoor the tire temps will fall to normal pretty fast tho. A few laps in tire temps is the same no matter if u used heating or not. That’s what I have heard from the guys at my club.

Can't really get the xractor any more cause it's discontinued....is the slot machine a suitable replacement? If not what have you found

That was a fantastic video Simon, you really show your knowledge well and make it easy to understand 🎉

Interesting and informative, thanks for posting. If you read the SDS Sheet for lighter fluid you might decide to use a different product…

Looking to return to RC racing have found your videos very interesting and informative

What voltage do you discharge your batteries to after a heat , what do you use to get 3C discharge rate

Really helpful, thanks

Very insightful video series sir, I really appreciate it

I’ve never seen or heard of either the chamfer tool for body posts or the template to cut out the wheel arches out. Wish I had known about this, especially the wheel arches as I’m always cutting them wonky and thus ruining the look of my shells, and dare I say affect performance to a small extent due to drag caused by different size holes etc

Many thanks for the detailed info on your video. definitely learned more after watching this. more videos like this 😀

Thank you.

Brilliant video Simon. I switched to racing mod TC a few years ago so I sold my SkyRC motor analyser. Could you do a video on how to set timing with a multimeter? Thx!

Good info. I'm just now getting serious about 1/10 touring car racing and I found this video very informative. Thanks!

Great video.

Another really helpful video! Thank you.

The bodyshell looks lovely 👍

I think the dawg wants in on it 😅

rcidentity.com

We will follow this as we have similar content on our channel. Great vid Hope to see you trackside soon

Thanks for making these videos they help a lot . What tyres do you run at Aldershot ?