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Errr....have you seen the text below the video? Anyway, there are 2 videos linked or you can check for another procedures. Now there are many detailed explanation. Good luck!

Well, in this case it make sence to perform a radiator cleaning (JC031 XL600V Radiator cleaning) or at least fill-up check. Maybe coolant liquid replacement would be a good idea too. And if you're going to change the coolant, I'd do a coolant system flush as well.

Hello, it depends on the exact type. In my case it is different. (Item 25 and 27 www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600v-transalp-1998-w-italykph_model6607/partslist/F__1300.html)

I guess it is because of the possible way bigger dynamic load on the brake side. But this is just a guess.

@@ST-di6nl I just found out why. My model is 1994 and uses 2 x 6203. Later years uses 1 x 6203 and 1 x 6303 on the brake side. Thanks!

Thanx. It was done in order to check if it works or not.

Hello, frankly it was ages ago and I don't really remember how I did it. But Haynes says that it shall be removed.

To be honest...I have no idea. It was years ago I have dismantled the tap and I don't remember how does it look like inside. So I can only take a wild guess: maybe air inlet for the membrane or the tank? Dunno. Sorry

Yeah. Hot glue was OK, but then I was hit by a car and after that I used epoxy as well (because I had on hand see comments below) and it still OK. (BTW why did you laugh?)

oh man, really sorry about your accident. Anyway what makes me laugh is that I've EXACTLY the same pins broken (same pins for same panels) I don't know if coincidence or if every transalp breaks the same pins after years xD @ST-di6nl

Hello, There was already a discussion about that 5 years ago under the "JC027 XL600V Carburettor inspection and cleaning part 2" video. That time I made a quick qoogling and found this: "Located on the side of the carburetor, the air cut-off valve prevents lean fuel mixture (backfire) when decelerating Temporarily closes the pilot jet airway to provide a richer mix as the throttle closes"

Then one guy wrote this (transleted by DeepL.com): "That diaphragm is the accelerator pump. You suddenly apply the gas. The vacuum in the pump ports increases. That sudden vacuum pushes this diaphragm, which injects extra gasoline into the pump ports. You can see a jet. Matchstick thick liquid column. Butterfly valve is fully open at this time. Engine starts to speed up, gasoline pours into the engine. After this extra vacuum is reduced the diaphragm will push less and less extra spray down the throat. The balance is set. You accelerated from 80 to 120. High speed " idle " comes on at 120 and you're rolling. You don't pull the throttle. Diaphragm not working. You pull slowly, there's not much acceleration demand, so the accelerator pump doesn't work. The RPM also rise slowly. This diaphragm makes the average fuel consumption go up from 5 to 6 litres per 100 km." Deepl is suprisingly good but not fully accurate. So I have made some corrections. If I remember well that small airbox connected to this one. I hope this helps.

​@@ST-di6nl Hey thanks for the answer. Yeah very helpful. It is difficult to find advanced knowledge information about this carburetor nowadays. You only get basic maintenance information, or replacement parts, but not how actually this carburetor works, all the systems and routing etc. Thanks your channel is very good for the XL600V, lot of camera views, good resource

First of all: you know I'm not a motorbike or car mechanic so I might be wrong. I haven't replaced them because in my opinion their function is to protect the things inside against the dust (so no oil or pressure retention etc) and they seemed OK for the job. If it is not a problem for you ( I mean easy to get the rings) it makes sense to replace, but to me it would have taken weeks.

@@ST-di6nl Ja bij mij word t dezelfde oplossing haha

Yeah, these kinda things are really annoying. i hope you get an acceptable price.

I'm really sorry but I have no idea. I have never changed that. In the past 3 years quite a few videos were uploaded about Transalp maintenance. If you are lucky you might find. When I started there were not too many so I had to use Haynes manual quite much. It is great so I recommend.

@@ST-di6nl i do have the manual . i tell ya . those carbs took me abit to get off but this transalp i have hasnt been well looked after as alot of hoses and bolts are perished and rounded

Hello, As I mentioned I used used motor oil. Partly because it's dark in colour, so it's easy to see, and partly because if I'm not fast enough and the cylinder sucks some in, it's still fine. I recommend read the comment section, I always try to share important infos.

Thank you for the information, your Transalp videos are very helpful. I will be doing valve clearance and carb synch using your videos. Thanks!

@@martijn647 I'm happy to hear that making theses videos were not senseless. Good luck! Be careful, it can ruin your settings if your screwdriver heavy. However it can be hard to match the screwdriver to the screw still always lift it up to see the real sync before you finish!!!

Since I didn't have a new washer I made this to annealing it (soften it, reduce the hardness, etc.)

@@ST-di6nl Thanks for replying. Do you still have the Transalp? Planning to do the oil change on mine next weekend.

@@IrlDave71 Yes, I still have it. I love it so it is not planned to give away. Keep in mind to do the oil change while the motor is on the central stand. (guess why I warn you 🙂 )

That"s exaclty what i do when i am stuck

It has done its job quite OK till I had the accident. After that I had to repair some serious damage on the front covers where I used Scotch-Weld DP 270 so I used it for the pegs as well (instead of the hot glue.) Why DP 270? Because that was strongest glue I had on hand. And it worked and works quite well.

@@ST-di6nl Hi thanks for taking the time to reply and the info!. I will try and get some Scotch-Weld DP 270 then thanks. 👍. P.S Hope you are ok after the accident!.

@@UKPete I'm ok thanx, it was 3-4 years ago. Let me emphasize that there is no any special reason behind using DP270. It happened that I have some on hand. I didn't buy it, I have just get it for free. I f I would have got something similar I use that. On the other hand It works fine so If U have no this kinda stuff at home I would recommend to buy this (I have no long term experience though so I take no responsibility)

@@ST-di6nl Ok cheers for the info much appreciated!.

First you check valve clearance, set to factory setting (it varies by model), and balance carbs. Then you ajust fuel mix on one side by reaching maximum rpm, thend ajust rpm screw to 1300, then do other side till maximum rpm, again ajust idle screw to 1300. Repeat to make sure.

Thanx for your comment. Actually there are some things to consider: - its purpose is the technical info transfer not entertainment. The whole channel is about helping those few ones who are interested. I don't care if nobody subscribe. I'm totally fine if some just come, watch and go as far as it helps to anybody. - many cases Google has removed the music because of some mysterious copyright issue....which is hard to imagine in connection with a ~50 years old french music for example... - it is more work to me without any benefit ( Especially when it is removed at the end....) I'm 100% sure that people who watch my videos don't seek for fun but for idea/info etc. - you can anytime open a second tab and start the music you like Wish you a happy new year.

Hi, it is no bothering at all. There are two things I keep saying: 1.) I am not a certified service guy so I might make mistakes. But if I find one I correct it and modify the video (or at least write a warning below) 2.) The purpose of these videos is to help me to put together what I have disassembled and give the method to myself for the future if I have to do the maintenance again. I share them to help others to visualize what they will find inside and give a method that worked to me. Most probably there are more ways even better ways to do the action. When I have started the channel there were just a few videos on the topic (not as detailed as these are) so on all my videos you see actions what I have done for first. However there are things that I would (will) do differently next time still my bike works fine. The Haynes manual is my bible and everything I do is based on that. In some cases it is not detailed enough so I put back the parts as they were originally. Unfortunately if somebody made a mistake in the past (I bought a used bike) I might copy that. So to sum up: these methods worked for me but feel free to modify. There are many guys who have more knowledge than me so listen to them. This is the case with the spring too: no details on the net at all so I put back as it was. Maybe it was fitted wrong by the previous owner. On the other hand I found no problem during riding.

I'm really sorry but I can't tell you anything on this. I don't use hard my bike (no big packs, only dirt roads, no off road) so I always follow the factory specification. The guys on the forum use 5-10w, some have mixed these to get 7.5w but I don't remember any who have used 15w. Maybe somebody can help you here. Or if you find it too rigid you can try to downgrade by removing some amount and fill with thinner oil. Ride safe!

Hello, In Haynes manual it is written that 549 cc is required per each in case of XL600V and the oil level is 125 mm (no spring, fork fully compressed). Well....as you can see I did not measure the oil level. Next time I will. For XL650V they are 542 cc and 141 mm. Hope it helps.

@@ST-di6nl Yes of course it helps me, thanks to your videos I put my hand on my motorcycle myself without taking it to a mechanic, thanks for your answer

Hello, that was a simple brake cleaner spray. No specific brand, I bought the one that was on sale.

Sorry, I don't really understand the question. Could you please rephrase?

Yes. Very clever, worth to know about.

I don't really remember now but I think they are about 2.65-2.75 turns.

WD40 was used as it is rubber friendly.

Hi, Are you talking about this one: 17210-MS8-000?

@@ST-di6nl yes I talk about that. I don't know how the bottom two exits go. I see photos on the internet and it seems that one has a short cap and the other a tube which also has a cap at the end, do you know if that's the case? do they have to be open to drain and air in or both closed? thank you

Do you know CMSNL? I have just picked the german model but you can pick yours. Anyhow most probably all are the same in a certain year. According to this, one outlet has a drain plug (17358-HA0-680) and the other has a longer tube with a breather plug (17370-382-870) www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600v-transalp-1989-k-germany_model6543/partslist/F__1700.html#.X2OhFBGxV7P

@@ST-di6nl Yes, it is the same filter box that you sent me in the link, thank you very much for the help, one last question, the longest tube is placed on the side that comes from the crankcase vent or on the side of the filter. Finally, are the plugs blind or do they have air inlet / outlet? maybe you can see it on your Transalp. It is a pleasure to be in contact with you who know a lot about motorcycle mechanics.

Oh come on! I know just a hair more than Average Joe but thanx anyway. '98 TA has different kinda filter case so the outlets positioned differently but according to CMSNL the drain plug (17358-HA0-680) is outside (closer to you when standing next to the bike) in your case. Fortunately I know not too much about these plugs since I have never had to deal with them. As a wild shot I would say that the drain plug is always open and the breather works manually but I might be wrong. Just a guess.

Hello, thanx for the feedback. As I stated many times I am not a professional bike mechanic, I am just a transalp owner (with engineering background). My bike didn't have such a long rest so I had to clean and adjust the carbs, replace the battery, replace the oil and clean the starter motor. If I were you I would change the oil filter too (mine was brand new at the time of the accident so I didn't replace). Of course have new petrol but you would need that for air-fuel mixture adjustment anyhow. 2 advices: - change the cylinder head inlet rubbers if they weren't replaced in the past few years. Taking into consideration its price and the effort need it makes no sence to test and realize the need later. Just a reccomendation not a must have thing. - when you clean the carb clean it hard. Clean everything even if you want the bike up and running ASAP. Spend the time to clean it thoroughly. It is better than try to keep the work minimum and then remove/disassemble/clean/put-together/install it 4 times. I know what I am talking about, I have tested it. :-D So these are the must have things for the first start (well the starter motor is not neccessarily stuck but after such a long rest.....anyhow you will realize if it is). But be WARNED: these are the important things for the first start in order to see if the engine and its belongings are OK not for a safe ride. Short test ride on the nearby streets are OK but do it carefully. After seeing that it works I would have new brake fluid, new tires and replace the fork oil. Be sure that the brakes are OK. After these I would use it as normally and deal with the things based on the need (like lubricate or replace chain, replace bearings, replace cooling water, replace sealings/pipes etc.) Again: these are the things I have done or I would do without any deep research. Your situation can be different / special. After a quick search I have found a few articles on this topic for example: motorcyclehabit.com/how-to-start-a-motorcycle-thats-been-sitting/ motorcyclehabit.com/what-happens-when-a-motorcycle-sits-for-too-long/ Good luck!

Hi, I am happy to hear that all these helps on somebody. I think there is no transalp owner who haven't heard about Pedro Mota. I have spent a whole winter with watching the whole MAGA project. :-D Let me draw your attention to CMSNL (www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600_model363/). I've checked the '93 Spain version and found that there is no sub air filter at all. Just go there, pick your model and look for the AIR CLEANER assy. Or after picking your model you can write in the search bar that "sub air"...there will be no related hit. Just make sure that the option for the search is "this model". (for clarification: I have a '98 Italian model) Hope this help.

@@ST-di6nl that looks like a great parts site, thanks. and useful for easy to reach schematics. indeed, it seems like japanese models don't have those sub-airs. mine is xl600vp, an austrian one. for me TA600 is the sweet spot. not too small, not too big, not too weak nor fast, not an antiquity and at the same time no over-teched modern thing, i love it's design and riding feel. after a recent crash i'm happy that only rear rim died (it looks like have to order a new one and re-lace it, since i can't get a proper and nice used wheel). at least i have time to get into hidden areas of the motorcycle and check/clean them, before i hit the road again (well, in a correct way)

@@pastorius Sad to hear about the accident, I hope you are ok. I had mine 2 years ago. I have managed to repair the bike and some parts are 2nd hand or 3rd party ones. Actually they were way cheaper than the genuine ones and the bike is as fine as it was before.....except the look. Aesthetically it is like a MAD MAX vehicle but from operation point of view is like a swiss watch. :-D Hope you can manage the rim issue without too much pain.

@@ST-di6nl hopefully you're fine too. my one 'reshaped' vertebra doesn't complain. speaking of maintenance, i learn a lot, since i knew nothing 2years ago and videos like yours are great especially in case of these 80s-90s bikes, since many workshops simply charge a lot (with prices set up for newer bikes). and i like to motivate myself by seeing other people taking care of their Transalps, there was a short period after the crash when i doubted the decision of getting one, like what have i signed up for, i'm going to continually pour money and time (including painful learning) into the machine instead of riding it (and pleasingly trusting it) .. but then i cooled down, now things doesn't look that bad, moreover i realized i really like that Alp and i'm simply going to take care of it, even if it takes me so long. sometimes i even have hysterical ideas like buying a spare output shaft in case this one gets chewed up one day )

Hello, I'm afraid I don't really understand you. I used a bent fork wrench (size 10) as it is shown on the video. Only trick what is not on the video was that to start it to turn I've used a water pump plier too with the fork wrench. Does it help?

Uhhh....errr...I have just realize this 1 year old comment. Shame on me, really sorry, have no idea how did I miss it. However most probably you are over that still this is the way I have done it -> "JC016 XL600V Forks removal". Maybe somebody else will need this also. To change the oil it is possible without removing the forks but a full overhaul is not.....well maybe possible but it would make the whole process extremely over complicated.

Hello, I guess you are asking about the songs.....they are in Hungarian. BTW they are SKA-HECC : Delta , SKA-HECC : Randivonal

@@ST-di6nl Hey, thanks! As Hungarian doesn't really belong to any European language family (from the bigger ones I mean), I was actually struggling to recognize it. I also haven't been exposed to it much, so I guess that's another reason. Are you from Hungary?

@@gablan1468 Yes, I am.

Hello, the crash bar is made by Heavy Duties (heavyduties.ro/). It was a hair cheaper to receive to my door than buying others (like GIVI etc) in a shop. (well....that time in Hungary) But in my opinion it looks better. :-D

It was part of my big maintenance so I have removed the rear wheel and the swingarm too (JC009). Obviously it is enough to remove the wheel and the screws at the bottom of the shock. If you watch carefully you can see that it falls when I remove the screw (around 1:14 - 1:15). Maybe there is another way but I don't aware since my goal was to remove both the shock and the swingarm too.

Happy if helped. In the mean time 2 updates were applied: 1. the straws were replaced by plastic pipe joiners (for durability) 2. the boost join (16214-MB0-000) got broken so I have drilled through a a half-threaded screw with a drill press. I don't know if all of them are such a crap or just I'm cursed but it wasn't forced at all and still have damaged.

Örülök ha segített bármiben is! Valójában akartam egy kis kiegészítést tenni hozzá, de nincsen filmanyag. A lényeg: az ember nem passzióból szedi szét ennyire a karbit. Én se tettem volna ugye.... Ha esetleg eltömődésre gyanakszol és már ennyire szétszedted akkor semeddig nem tart kiszedni a fúvókákat sem és átmosni őket, letesztelni hogy áteresztenek-e és hozzá az ÖSSZES járatot is nem megfeledkezve a pillangó szelep alatti kis lukakról sem. A nitrohigítót jó cuccnak tartom, de ha megint kellene csinálni akkor vennék karbi tisztítót. Ahogy egy fickó mondta az egyik videóban (az ezer közül amit néztem) => "valszeg a legjobb az amin a legtöbb veszélyességi figyelmeztető jel van". :-D

Én féktisztítót használtam a karbi belső pucoláshoz, kívül benzinnel mostam meg! Én Ausztriából hoztam a Transalpomat, nem volt semmi hibajelenség, csak megelőző karbantartás végett szedtem szét, kívülről elég koszos, poros volt, de belül patyolat tiszta volt, a membránok is rendben vannak! A karbi úszóház tömítést honnan lehetne beszerezni, azt lehet vennék hozzá! Te hol szoktál alkatrészeket venni a motorodhoz? Az ali és az ebay elég drága, meg a minőség sem tudom milyen lehet!

Hááát, eddig a legtöbb dolgot a motoralkatresz.eu -ról és eredeti honda alkatrészeket szervizből vettem, de ez utóbbi sokszor meglehetősen drága így elkezdtem szétnézni az utángyártottak között is mostanság. Pont az úszóház tömítés csapta ki a biztit, ami gyáriban 6000/db volt tavaly januárban, de utángyártottban 1750Ft a mai napon! (www.motorosboltroadrider.hu/Karburator-uszohaz-tomites-TOURMAX-FBG-104-1db-d14436.htm?tab=description) Figyelmedbe ajánlom a transalp.hu oldalt!

Köszönöm a válaszod, a Transalp.hu oldalon fent vagyok, és sok okos dolgot lehet olvasni, sokszor volt nagy segítség! És a videóid is nagyon jók! 👍

Hello, unfortunately I have no idea. I haven't seen the one with glue and I haven't measured mine before installation. (note: I don't really see the logic to have different sizes for the diaphragms if the pistons are the same sized.

Salve che tipo di spray usi per inserire le membrane?

Helló Marci, Since my bike had 1.5 year rest I have put some WD40 to the pistons through the spark plug holes, turned the main shaft by hand beforehand. Despite of this there was the problem and it sounded like a "kereplő". (To the ones who don't know what the heck is that: th-cam.com/video/ZWwXYtVoh74/w-d-xo.html). It was not clear if the starter motor or the starter relay gave it. Now I can confirm that after cleaning the whole problem disappeared! On the forum one of the guys had similar issue but for him there was only a loud click and the motor didn't turn. He performed the cleaning and after his problem disappeared too.

Right. The problem is that most of the cases U2B has muted the audio because of some kinda "Copyright claim". So I gave up to put energy into this for nothing.