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It came with the kit

Not yet thankfully

I belive it is the shim and bucket type so you look that up and figure out the parts and tools you will need.

@@jjsdiygarage1267 I was hoping to watch you do it first 😆

@vyngthia I have to do a valve cover gasket soon so maybe I will do them both.

After researching a little more, it looks like they are adjustable without shims. So I will be ordering the valve cover gasket and doing the adjustment soon.

It's a 67 ford econoline van. I have the full rebuild/ adventure on my page if you want to check it out

All aftermarket LED headlights are for off-road use. That being said, they are really nice, and they improve visibility greatly. It looks like all of the other modern cars with blue/ white headlights that come stock. And they sell headlights for most cars that don't go off road...

@@jjsdiygarage1267 I think I get your drift…

Drastically, while at low speeds. Just make sure all of your sensors plugs are good and waterproof if you live a wet area.

It's not bad, just remember. Remove the negative first, then the positive, then Connect positive first, then negative. This way you will not make sparks.

It depends on your area, I think, a coworker was quoted $90. Everything for both headlights is included. I think it should last a while as it's actually a coating that is applied. It's really a simple process you will be fine.

I'm not 100%sure. They are both 5th gens (2011-2015)

No problem

😄 I have seen things that no mechanic ever wants to see

You don't have to, but if you live in salty environments and plan on servicing anything, it helps. And I only anti seize the slide pins on the brake caliper for free movement of the pad. Anti- seize does not reduce torque. Or alow things to become loose. In fact, when using anti seize on hardware, you typicly reduce the torque by apoximently 25% to achieve the same clamping force of the hardware due to the thread lubrication.

And I did use a c clamp to compress the piston.. it was just a woodworking one because I could t find my regular c clamp.

@@jjsdiygarage1267 hence loose lug nuts cause they can't pull tight..had a guy working with me..loved it till the wheel came off a garbage truck..the 2 he put on with anti seize came loose the other 2 without still tight.same guy same tools same 1 inch air gun..only difference..silver anti seize..and I love the stuff.but it just don't go on some places..oh ya I think ya forgot to tell them about the rubber plugs in the rear drums..how to get them in and out with out damage ..wd..good vid I liked it it's always good to pass down knowledge i worked on army duece an half trucks..kb12s.. dozers heavy equipment..all the way till now working on small cars and trucks..ole Lady and kid just happen to have a 15 honda.. mustang GT and ranger..me I have Harley's..

I think I would blame it on a lack of uga duggas, not the anti seize. I also updated my last comment I missed the last sentence. You reduce the torque when you use thread lubricant because more clamping force is obtained with the same torque. I have faith that people can pop a little rubber plug out without me showing them haha.

As far as I know,once you clear the maintenance, the internal milage tracker resets all of the maintenance that is displayed. If you did them relitvly close together I wouldn't worry about it. Or you can just write the maintenance down in your owners manual for when you did it and keep track of it that way.

Thanks, you can reach me at jjenkins26386@gmail.com

Yikes I'm sorry, that's the reason I make these videos.

@@jjsdiygarage1267 You know, when you’re unaware of what things should cost, you can really get taken. Interestingly enough, it was just after the $1200 stimulus checks came out during Covid. Coincidence? Not so sure.

@robertbrost7777 dealers and mechanic shops have huge over head costs ( buildings, inventory, employees...) that's the reason it costs more. At least thats the logic I use, I would like to think that not every auto shop is out to get people.

No problem, I'm glad it helped

No problem

Not at all, I used Hondas HCF2 during the first fluid change. Then the next change I went to the valvoline.. no change at all

That adds up. Thanks

I sold my jeep, unfortunately, but if I recall, the high and low beams are in the same housing.

You should be able to see the wires going in to the back of it with the hood up

@@jjsdiygarage1267 ok thanks

There are also 2 square magnets installed inside the pan you can only access by removing the pan. The factory pan gasket is metal, I used Honda bond and reused as the rubber gasket supplied was wrong. If you have ANY build up of particulate on drain plug magnet I would change this main filter and clean the internal magnets.

Honda says no... but you can buy the parts to do the service, so 🤷. I made a video on how to do it, and the comments on it clear up the part numbers for you. So it's your choice. I will say that the filter didn't look bad when I did mine at 130k.

@jjsdiygarage1267 yep thinking about doing the same but it 50/50 lol it look like a pain to change it. Mine 15 crv at 120k miles now. Thank you for making this video.

It's not difficult at all. You just gotta jack up the car a little bit and you'll have plenty of room to undo all 14 of the transmission bolts. Just drain it and then you're good to take it off. Filter uses 12 millimeter socket I believe. Trans bolts are 10mm. ​@@Gia_7604

Nope, they are iridium tip, which you do not gap or check because you risk breaking it. They come pre gapped to spec, just make sure you get the correct ones and you are good to go

Yes it's a CVT transmission fluid change

@@jjsdiygarage1267 ok thanks

👏 thank you

I had similar stories growing up, which inspired me to conduct my own maintenance, which evolved into me making videos to help people. Keep it up 👍

If I had friends 😔...

Thank you 😂this worked too well I’d been struggling to get the pan past the bell housing on the trans and then I turned the wheel and jacked up the car and the pan was lower than ever

No I'm not sorry

This is my process and opinion, there are plenty of other opinions though. So it has the flat tapet cam, so you have to fire it up and immediately take it up to around 2k rpm for 20 to 30 minutes. This ensures it doesn't eat itself with no oil. Have a friend look for leaks or other issues while you maintain rpm and oil psi. After that I do an oil change looking for any big chunks, cut the filter open and look in there too. Then fill it up with more break in oil, drive it around for 500 miles at moderate engine load, then another 500 at higher engine loads. Then regular oil at 1000 miles.

@@jjsdiygarage1267 thanks I bought a reman from titan engines and I’m getting started on the swap as we speak thanks for the help bro 🤙🏽

@deadspeed6679 nice good luck, I would thing they would give you specific break in procedures for the product they put out

@@jjsdiygarage1267 super vague instructions tbh it’s said 1500 for 15 min I’ve never broken in an engine before so I’d thought I’d ask someone who’s done it lol

@deadspeed6679 just look up Flatt tapet cam shaft break in procedures, lots of videos on that. The cam is the biggest concern followed by the rings

It's a lot easier to cut metal than it is to put it back, so I wanted to take my time and cut nice even cutouts. If you can do it faster with the same results 👏

Nope