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Thanks for the video. I got lost on the dummy light. There are two wires coming from the light on the tach (gray and yellow/black), I know the gray wire connects to the gray wire on the oil gauge going to the light, but what wire does the yellow/black go to?

Did you think about getting a rear wind buffeter?

Beware of these dealers. They often sell absolute death traps and thats because they dont care to do the proper inspections

Man, you need a director/filmographer and an editor. This could have been one of best video about this car on yt

I’m really enjoying this series and am getting some great tips to use when I work on the Series 1 X1/9 I jusrt bought (with a 1500 engine, and a spare fast road engine in bits).Thanks for your efforts in making the videos, and also for showing the failures and not just the successes - its the failures we all learn from!

A tough job that got even tougher. Glad it is now done, I bet.

Marshall, with aluminum doors you'll need to use a foam between the door and mylar layer. My doors were pre-insulated so I didn't need the foam. I can get my garage down to 72 in the spring and 74 in the summer. I recorded a 30 degree difference.

A great car for cruising in the country side.

Where did you get your parts? Like the dash board.

Excellent video - I am about to buy a 1500 with a spare engine with a big valve head - it needs a camshaft, so thanks to your help, I am well prepared for that job!

Nice job Marshall, thanks for the shoutout. The motor for the X is out of the machine shop and is being assembled by Vicks. Couple more weeks and I'll be putting it back together.

Thanks for a ton of information.

I thoughts for sure you were going to swap the round lens from the sealed one to the new housing. Prob doable with some heat gun action. I’m curious if people are flashing their brights at you. I just went with the Hellas with good halogens after much debate with my brain.

I’ve made careless mistakes myself. Like leaving a jack in the way while lowering the car. I call those guy checks. Keeps you humble. I’ll second what others have said. You should put a straight edge on the head to make sure it’s not warped… or just send it! 😎

Super-lucky you had the old engine to get that intake part off of. Any long-term Fiat owner really needs their own parts orchard at some point.

This is just what I needed at the perfect time! I have a really annoying oil leak on my 87 UK X1/9. Couldn't determine the location so used a fluorescent dye and UV torch. I think it's the head gasket but it drives perfectly and the engine sounds awesome when it spins up. Maybe it's from the cam box and running down making it look like the head gasket? There's no usual indications of a head gasket failure.....coolant loss or milky froth at the filler cap etc. When you took the "cam box" off which looks like it sits on the head, there didn't look like there was a gasket on it....was it stuck to the underside of the cam box and we didn't see it? Gaz.

The new head gasket is not correct for your engine. You have a later "14 bolt" engine. That new gasket is for the earlier "10 bolt" engines.

No fiat in the world is easy to do anything on😂😂😂😂 ask any Fiat mechanic! But they are super cool cars, just next level difficulty to repair.

Great looking car and have enjoyed your relevent content. Own two of these myself, market is definately going up on these and I feel your asking price is fair. Hope you get another some day!

Nice work! I might be an exception but I much prefer the classic euro car videos.

Not sure you did this, but whenever you have a head gasket leak, you should take an aluminum head and check it with a straight edge to see if it warped. Even short overheating spells can cause aluminum heads to warp. So not sure your new head gasket is the long term fix without validating the head flatness.

You retained the original engine...what a win ! Now on the looping of the heater core line...yes here to in Georgia it gets very hot... So I used a standard residential home plumbing handle On/Off valve cut into the hot water line leaving the block to be able to terminate the flow of hot water to the core. In February when I really need just a little heat, I open it up and allow the water to flow (and it pushes the "old" water out of the core). Works well and I can tell others the hot water system is modified (not deadlined). Brilliant work, quality, and transfer of your talent as always. My thanks. Joe Oh, I do wish I had an AC.

Thanks, looks great! Where did you find the description on how to build the back compartment?

This is just the video I needed to watch. I'm looking at adding a double DIN stereo (with Android Auto) to the center dash of my '79 and moving the warning lights and controls to the old radio location. I saw it done on a "76 Spider and it looked amazing.

How do I change the hood and truck emblems to new ones I have purchased? Please wood be a great help---- replace FIAT goldcircles the Fiat logo Thanks so much

Wheels look ok, the car is sat higher overall, those VW Golf mk4/5 calipers are a good cheap option. Now you need an adjustable pedal box to move some of the braking effort to the rear. The fronts will lock up way too easy

The white plastic gear inside my motor looks to be in pretty decent condition. Do you recommend putting white lithium grease or penetrating oil on the gear, or should I just clean it and keep it dry?

You didnt change o-rings or the drier, or was it already converted to 134A?

The couple of parts that you called “door strikers” they look like the base plate for the shifter. 😊

Link to video of plugging wires in? Curious

Appreciated and copied your installation but cannot get the four-bolt connector plates to line up perfectly despite several removal and reinstallation of the bolts. Upper two OK but bottom pair won't let me tighten the bottom of the connection completely. It's about 1/16th askew. Any advice would be appreciated.

Do you by chance have a picture of how the back of the fuse block should look? I'm having issues getting power to the right headlight but it was there before. I swapped the fuse block but did it one wire at a time to ensure that I didn't mess the block up but that didn't work either. The original was pretty corroded, the new / used one I cleaned up before installing. I'm just at a loss as to why it won't work. The wires look good, it worked before. I'm massively frustrated right now so I'm hoping it's something dumb that I missed. Thanks for your help.

Hi Uncle Marshall it is Ember ❤😂 I love you

how far should the header insert into the twin pipe? Had a devil of a time just getting it in. Cheers.

15/16 socket? It's a European car. Shouldn't it like 24mm? It is nice to know the closest standard size though so you can grab the socket you find first. Helpful video!

Great work! I thought the rear diff gearing is slightly different on the auto cars though?

I'm surprised that the Reflectix didn't do a better job. I used it in AK and had good results. Glad to see the project is moving forward and eager to see a new one!

May I ask what kind of paint you used on the floor?

I recently purchased a 77’ - whenever I open my convertible top, the cloth part detaches from the body of the vehicle (at 16:25 is the step I’m talking about). How do you get it to stay even when it’s not closed and tight (glue, clamps,etc)?

The beauty about being a X1/9 owner in 1979 was that you could buy Pirelli P6 tires in the stock 13 inch size and have all the tire you would ever need. Also I drove my off the lot and drove it like I stole it being a 19 year old kid. The brakes were more than enough and I cannot imagine needing more. The only thing that we all know about these sweet rides was lack of power. But the handling and braking was exactly what you needed.

Vick Auto told me that it doesn't matter which side of the gasket faces the block.

head lamps do not take any significant current. If your voltmeter goes down on turning the headlights, something else is bad like a bad wire or so. Alteranteors can feed tens of Amps, lamps need just a few.

The x1/9 is a small sporty car, the less loud exhaust matches the character better than the overly aggressive exhaust before

excellent work! But the exhaust is way too loud. And, lower the front a bit. X1/9s tend to have their nose in the air

I'll keep my 13s. You took a 70s sports car and turned it into a Civic. Now of course that is completely my opinion, and I really hope you disagree with me! I don't want your X to look like my X, imagine going to a car show and all the cars looked the same.

Hey dude. At least clean up your car before reating content. Dust, mud & rust falling all over... 🤦🏻‍♂️

Those old exhaust brackets are rusty and falling apart from fatigue. I'd toss 'em. You can buy BOTH brackets factory NOS for $100 and they even have zinc plating cause : FAC-TREE haha.

Glad i dont live next to you!!!!!