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@epochVHS thanks for the info! It's been a while since I had to work on a Gamecube to this extent, so my mind was drawing a blank on what the error message meant. 😅

@@fenriswolfretro6729 no worries at all! Your channel is fascinating to me as I brought back a bunch of Famicoms and stuff to fix up after my last trip to Japan and now I'm eating up content about doing just that as my project list is getting shorter.

@FeliciaByNature Thank you! I have more MVS related content on the chopping block, just gotta gather the rest of the needed materials :)

There are multiple factors as to why these ICs are failing. Be it environmental, factory defects, chiprot, etc. As far as replacements, you have some options depending on what needs to be replaced.

Their isn't really a direct guide on how to do it, as their are multiple different MVS boards with their own set of limitations and oddities. Most of it comes from comparing various boards on mvs-scans.com with their ROM dumps, to find similarities in jumper settings. While some of it comes from what is documented on the Neo Geo Development Wiki.

Thank you! I use the shorts as an opportunity to highlight the more chaotic aspect of my overall personality since my main videos have me more calm and reserved.

Thank you! Decided to check out your Core Playlist, and you got some serious talent in composition. Keep it up!

@@fenriswolfretro6729 Hey thanks! Means a lot to me :) Same to you good sir.

I find it works best for me. I am open to trying new fluxes, but Chipquik has always been reliable for me. I did use MG Chemicals paste flux in the past, but I found that it crystallizes often. Resulting in the needle jamming up and an annoying discharge when you apply a little more pressure to loosen it.

@fenriswolfretro6729 Agreed on the mg chemicals. I have that problem myself, a full tube pretty much unusable. Terrible quality. idk if it was just a bad batch, but I heard of many people complaining about the same issue. I've currently been trying the chipquik fluxes, and to my findings, they perform alright, meaning the activation doesn't last long. I would always have to add more in order to re touch up. So since then, I gave stirri a try, and boy was I amazed it works fantastic. Plus, it smells actually quite nice. lol not that we're supposed to be smelling it, but it's always nice when it doesn't reek like candle wax.

I use a dual-ended pencil and ink eraser. The pencil side is for light surface corrosion, and the ink side is for heavier surface corrosion. As for isopropyl, anything above 90% will do.

I would imagine the cleanup afterward isn't as fun, but it doesn't hurt to try!

@@fenriswolfretro6729 just a tiny dab of toothpaste applied to kitchen paper, then rubbed gently on to the inked surface will remove the permanent marker in a few seconds, the minty smell will be the longest element that remains, which will go after a day or so, the ink literally absorbs into the paper so no messy residue, doesn't work on printed paper, or porous surfaces, yes it still lifts/ removes marker, but it will lift any printed ink with it, too.

😛

Will definitely keep that in mind, should I ever encounter another system with damaged looking traces!

Exactly. You spent time talking about how you believed so many could possibly be damaged then had a cut and said that they were all actually fine. Thanks again for the content

@@hinataoccu I do agree. While the core focus was on the cleaning aspect, while editing, I did wish that I at least showed me going through every suspect trace with a multimeter.

My UV Box can do liquid as well, I just haven't found a consistent 12% Peroxide/Distilled Water ratio. Everyone who uses that method reports different ratio amounts, and I would rather not have to experiment so much to find a ratio that I am good with. Especially when these peroxide bottles ain't cheap.

Use a smaller box that only fits one shell very tightly in it, put just enough water in to submerge, then dump the entire bottle of peroxide in. You can reuse the liquid multiple times to do the entire console.

@Replicant813 but when exposed to UV, Hydrogen Peroxide decomposes, hence why even 3% HP is stored in brown bottles. Wouldn't that just be a waste of a $25 Gallon of 12% HP, if only used once?

For the big boy cap on the voltage regulator, I use the included 470uf capacitor that comes with the Console5 capkit. For the 6 capacitors that stack on the DC coupling caps for the core chipset, I use 100uf 16v electrolytic capacitors.

thanks dude!@@fenriswolfretro6729

No idea, but this was gnarly.

Thank you! Life's been rather busy, but I am planning on coming back with more videos this year! I have a bigger video ready as we speak, i'm just waiting on a final piece.

I don't plan on stopping anytime soon! It's just these larger videos take more time for me to film and edit, and the shorts I produce are just filler content in-between bigger uploads.

300°C is the safe range for stuff like this. Just make sure you are constantly moving and be patient.

Thank you!!! I appreciate the advice!!

Yes, but it's different depending on your revision. For SHVC-CPU-01, this is the exact guide to follow. SNS-CPU-GPM 01 or 02 is the same capacitor markings, but placement of caps & exact locations of VCC & GND might be different. For SNS-CPU-RGB 01/02 and SNS-CPU-APU 01/02, the capacitors you want to focus on are C70, C71, C72, C73, C74, and C75. Always check continuity with each sides of the ceramic capacitors, to ensure you are attaching the electrolytics to them correctly!

Is their a guide written for these consoles

Could you guide me somewhere that has the info

@@anthonyaviles8665 sadly no. This is the only resource for demonstating how this fix works

@@fenriswolfretro6729 awesome i saved the video for that reason

Originally I was going to recap and rebuild a Gameboy, but the rest of the parts I need for that haven't arrived yet. So I opted to just fix up and mod a Super Gameboy, instead.