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Much like ceramic pottery. They are formed and sintered in a kiln.

Thanks Tom, I'm doing too well perhaps. My three boys are keeping me very busy with many, many projects around here. I've neglected to set up a proper editing system since the old one crashed. Got all the parts... Maybe this rainy weekend I'll clear the desk and get 'er done. Lots a stuff in the "can" so to speak. Had to share the "oops" with ya'll though.

I use a multi (5) element dipole which covers 10-160 meter bands. The launcher is just used to get the hoist wires up over the trees.

Thank you for your input. I am aware of all the little things I could/should do to greatly improve my production quality. I currently lack a stable production platform for shooting and editing, so I keep it simple for now.

@@i-squared gotcha i get it man, thats a whole lot more editing. I like the details you include, very helpful for those that using youtube to learn this stuff. lot of people its almost like ur just watching them complete the thing. so I selfishly wanted your channel to grow lol!

I get the most criticism for being too detailed, or wordy. But I think to convey a technique the details are important. I try to answer the obvious questions about planning and processes before they are asked. Hence the name of the channel... Those seeking entertainment are usually bored, and they let me know it. Too much time on their hands I suppose. I had a brief career path in IT for a while. I got a lot of questions from people who simply asked, "Just tell me what damn button to push! I don't care why..." So I complied. Those people are still asking that same question and are no more competent today than they were 20 years ago. Thanks for your input. I'm putting together a dedicated editing station now. Look for more content in 2024.

I believe the thumbnail is calibrated to the RCH standard. That's two blonde ones for you metric guys.

@@i-squared RCH has gone over my head I'm afraid.

The diameter of a red hair, of the pubic variety. A rather common (if undocumented) measurement reference in many places I've been. @@billdoodson4232

@@i-squared 🤣🙂😂😂🤣🤣. I thought I'd been to some tasty places. Obviously I'm and amature.

They could be, or should be, but on my lathe I can't cut metric threads (yet). So IIRC I cut them to 3/4" x 20tpi. Which is pretty much 19 x 2.0. Good question. Thanks for watching.

On mine they are M18 by 1.5 mm. I bought lockable precision nuts from China instead of making them, just made 12 similar arbors. The nuts are 5$ each very nicely made. The lockable nuts makes it possible to run the grinding disks in reverse without the wheel coming loose. I intend to modify my D-bit grinder with a reversible VFD. Stefan Gotteswinter did this differently by putting in a key slot. Considered this but it seemed easier to just buy the nuts.

Lock nuts that you bought from china are they K-type or R-type? K-type are double price? There is also F-types for sale! R-type and F-type looks similar! @@erikisberg3886

Well, there's a number of reasons: First, I don't own, or desire to own a drone. A decent drone capable of dropping a string over my trees would not be a cheap investment. Considering I would only need it once every few years it doesn't seem worth the investment. Second, my launcher predates drones being a "thing". It's served me well since I've been licensed, which is before cell phones were a thing. Third, I have a buddy with such a drone. He brought it over and discovered some software issue preventing it from hovering in a stable manner, and then the video connection became an issue. In the meantime I launched quite a few birdies over my tree with satisfying success. None of which refutes your claim that employing such advanced technology would indeed make the task simpler and less variable. But for the time being this "boomer" will continue to use a simpler method which serves me well. Thanks for watching.

Absolutely! Hadn't thought of that. The high frequency would account for the shallow and consistent surface hardening due to skin effect. Makes sense. Thanks for watching.

Your point?

I would assume so. A bent tube is a bent tube. Good luck.

Wilner, This is not a complicated repair. But adjusting the bias must be done carefully. You absolutely should download the Service Manual for this radio and understand what you are doing. Remove Q2,3 and unsolder from FINAL board. Locate VR1 and turn fully clockwise to minimize bias. (optionally: You can confirm minimum bias at this time by applying power and keying radio in SSB mode, NO MIC gain!, and checking for 0 volts at the base of Q2,3. ) Replace Q2,3 and solder to board. Adjusting bias: As per manual, page 94. You’ll need to insert an ammeter (about 1 amp range) in wire 14S leading to L9 on side of board. See board layout page 78. Key radio and adjust VR1 to increase driver bias current 200mA. Reconnect 14S directly. Test for RF output and reassemble radio. No further adjustments SHOULD be required. To see a similar, detailed repair on a Yaesu watch this video: th-cam.com/video/_x2FSUkvUPg/w-d-xo.html Good luck.

That's not a CNC machine. Far from it. That's a "planer". Probably from the early to mid 1900's planers and shapers were widely used for making repetitive straight surfaces. Emphasis on the straight. This footage was provided by my friend Rees Acheson here in New Hampshire. He has since planed other pieces for me. You can see more of his work here www.youtube.com/@reesacheson5577 Also, Keith Rucker recently restored a planer on his channel and has several videos of that project here www.youtube.com/@VintageMachinery They can be set up to advance the tool for each successive stroke at any angle making flats, grooves or angles (dovetails) as needed with excellent precision and repeatability.

Yes, it is air driven. Rees claims that the original gear (rack and pinion) driven table produced noticable bumps in rhe work corresponding to the pitch of the rack. Since converying to pneumatics it cut flat as the ways it travels upon.

I'll look for the tap, I KNOW I saved it, but WHERE? I'll gladly make you a piece. I assume you can get the block milled for the the insert? Don't do anything until you have the dimensions of the insert in hand. You'll want to get things well aligned and centered. Can you PM me at incidentalinformation@gmail.com with your address?

Part of my professional duties when I was working was managing all the electronic and mechanical calibration in a science facility. So , metrology is kind of in my blood. I have an unusual affinity for such remarkable mechanical creations. These days of MEMS sensors, optical gratings and digital readouts have reduced our appreciation for the effort to produce such a mechanical indicator. But I will use it occasionally for checking things like lapped surfaces. Maybe small spindle runout or Wood's Metal measurement castings. I can generally hold under +/- .0005 off of my machines. I grind or lap beyond that. But really, it's just a neat piece of human endeavor.

Makes perfect sense. You seem to have the old world skills and appreciate quality tools. Since you are a Ham, I built most of the waveguides on the J- Webb telescope. Now retired, I play in my mini shop and build stuff for me. Enjoying your work and Ham radio !

@@tonyhunt1230 I grew up in manufacturing environment (family business). Dad was an old school machinist trained in WWII. Then I went to school for Engineering. You should do some videos for the ham community. We need knowledgeable hams presenting real theory to dispel the spread of misinformation and wives-tales to the new hams. Thanks for the kind words. I need to buy a new camera and get back to making videos.

I wish I could tell you, but I did not need to rebuild my spindle bearings and left well enough alone. Spindles can be fussy. Most spindles rely on compression to preload a set of front and rear bearings. So I'd look for a large nut behind the wheel taper. I'm not close to the machine at the moment but will look when I get home. Thanks for watching, hope it was useful.

@@i-squared I have been watching your videos trying to learn from your restoration. Would be great if you can share how to remove the spindle sliding block from the motor for rust cleaning. Thank you.

Another question. what is the lever right next to stop block for (in middle of saddle)?

​@@noonenoone1206 As for the lever. That locks the Z axis (in/out) movement of the saddle for grinding on the center of round objects. Using a horizontally mounted cylindrical part, usually mounted in a rotary table, or "Spin-Dex", with its axis aligned with the machine's X axis. The part is positioned with its feature to be ground under the wheel and the Z axis locked, This is especially critical if grinding a gear tooth or spline. As to your first question. I did find there is a locking ring just behind the wheel mount taper. You'll probably need to make a special offset spanner to grab the hole in its side and remove. I would expect a left hand thread. That should enable you to pull the entire bearing and mount assembly off of the motor shaft. You'll may need to fashion some sort of puller to push the shaft through the bearings. I would also suspect there's also something holding the motor frame on to the rear of the mount. I would check for LONG bolts through, or under, the rear bell of the motor. I couldn't easily get to the rear of my machine. Later this summer I have a reconfigure of the shop planned and will look then.

@@i-squared thanks for sharing more detail. Actually in this video at 2:20 you were showing the motor with the spindle assembly attached to it. From this, I take it that the motor assembly must have been removed or pushed through the sliding block from the back. I just could not figure out what's holding the spindle to the sliding block - even with the spiral lock ring removed I was unable to get spindle to move so I stopped. I just ordered a user manual for this machine, and will tackle this again in near future. I got it all back together for now. As for the lever, I see what you meant now but on my machine it does not lock the Z movement; I see where it's supposed to clamp of the rectangular bar under the saddle but it does not move that far to clamp the bar. Will tackle this later. Thanks much for your time. I learned a lot from watching your two videos on this surface grinder.

Im letting that post speak for itself. LOL!

I will. Promise! Been a little crazy around here for a while. In the meantime, I would suggest checking out Joe Piezynski's th-cam.com/channels/pp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w.html page for some excellent tips on single point threading.

Will do!

Wow, great idea here. Thankyou !

It has been well over a year since I first read this post. After much pondering and discussion with others, I simply cannot conjure any reasonable reply. There simply are no words ... I am dumbfounded.

Thank YOU! I subbed to your page, because you do an excellent job of finding and cataloguing machine tool repair and rebuild videos. Once I buy a new camera setup I'll get some more videos done.

Thanks. I'm glad when I can impart some useful info. That's the whole point of the channel. 'Cause I suck at entertaining. :) I set my taper by by placing the mating part (wheel adapter) in the chuck and running the compound in and out with an indicator, adjusting for zero deviation. I though that was in the video. I'll check and include it in another when I can.

I just made a balancing shaft yesterday of cold rolled bar. Set one dial indicator to measure 1 inch parallel movement of compound to lathe bed. Set another to measure .1250 movement in of cutter in the 1 inch of travel. Just kept bumping the compound angle until 1 inch x movement yielded .1250 movement of y axis. Got a print of 100% on both inner & outer tapers of the Sopko hub.

I'd have to look to be specific. Probably just a common reduction coupling. All parts were readily available at the local hardware (Home Depot, Lowes, etc) Nothing special.

Thanks for watching. Subbed your channel as well. Good Stuff!

@@i-squared Thanks.

A short piece of coaxial cable which feeds Receiver 1st mixer was poorly soldered. It required removing entire board to repair and did not get filmed due to camera issues. Thanks for watching.

@@i-squared Thank you

Its a common "junk box" variety momentary pushbutton. Like a doorbell. SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) technically speaking. I guess it depends on who's junk box you dig through. Nothing special really. I use two 9V batteries in series to trigger the valve at 18 volts.

Jump cut? I resemble that remark! That was a smooth transition from the tedious and boring to the droll and insufferable. No, you didn't miss anything. If I anything, I'd edit it even tighter today.

Weller WCTPN tips are still available from Digikey, Newark, etc. Heating elements, may be much tougher to come by. I collected a reasonable number of tips. If my heating element dies Im buying a Hakko. Thanks for watching.

I believe I have several such videos posted here. Maybe I'm not understanding the question?

Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.

@@i-squared Would it be possible to pull it through a pilot hole? Instead of pressing it?

@@Spruce-Bug ​ @Ryan Cameron Sorry for my delay. I think I know where you're going with this. I would say yes, IF, the rod pulling the aluminum broach went all the way through the broach with a nut on the other end, but then the nut would be pushing the broach. A steel, or harder, broach could be welded to a pull rod as is done for button rifling. The details of which I am unfamiliar.

I try to convey sufficient information to enable my viewers to attempt similar activities with comfortable familiarity. If it is simply entertainment you seek I suspect much of your time on TH-cam is wasted.