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H scope

@@Smiley-ry1zc oh sorry, 2013

@john82324 Hi, and thank you! The downkoad is from hscope. It has probe settings that have already been set up for most accessories. If yours is not there you can create your own custom probes. Everything I have needed has already been there but, it is nice if you make a sensor to be able to set it up and name it.

Hi. Thanks for the tip. Of course I found them under probes then the down load cloud symbol. So when I go to channels and there is a list of definitions then an eyeball symbol towards the right side what are these for?

@john82324 The definitions are for the abbreviated names for names in the channel menu. For example, if you are setting up the scope for a measurement. On the scope main screen, if you tap the channel name( the colored block that says channel 1 or 2) can change the name to any of those abbreviations. Cmp=cam position sensor,ect. The eyeball is the list you can see for quick access menu when you tap the channel name. If you tap the eyeball it puts a line through it saying it will not be on the menu. It is handy for if like you do not do can or lin at the moment you can tap the eye ball and it will put the line through the eyeball, signifying they will not be on the quick channel naming function. There are no settings associated with keeping the eyeball highlighted or turning that definition off. It is simply a fast way of quickly changing the name of channel 1 to say MAP and channel 2 to tps. Hope that helps, any other questions, feel free to ask

Hi thanks I just checked out what you said about abbreviation to name the scope channels. Finally it made sense to me. Thank you for your help. Greatly appreciate it

@john82324 Anytime at all , if you run into questions. I'm no expert on it but fumbled around already enough to make the scope and software to do about anything I need it to do

@BlainesGarage The Modis spent most of its life in a closet from what I understand, the scope leads still had the plastic pieces in the end and never uncoiled. Guy traded me for a hf fluid extractor. Surprisingly, lol. I had a list of items I offered, including a dewalt jobsite table saw still in the box, Hitachi laser compound sliding miter saw, and slew of automotive tools. Different strokes huh? I've always been a supporter of the trade, but feel like I made out extra this time lol. I loved the monitor output, but the oddest thing occurred. I left the modis and monitor plugged in with the vga cable. One day I hit the modis power button and nothing. Not even the green light showing power. When I turned on the monitor, the green light on the modis would come on but not start. Unplug the monitor and no green light on the modis. Turned out the fuse slid out on just 1 leg. I put a new one in and the modis works fine again, but no vga output. Tried a different cable and monitor just for the hell of it but no vga. Must have back fed through the board or something. Vga usually comes from the board itself, I wish it had a little graphic card I could swap inside. I do love the guided tests and the ignition scope/accessories, plus the live data!

@ I’d say you got the better deal, but that is sad that the VGA no longer works. Mine is practically useless without it. The screen is dim and full of horizontal lines. I’m glad to have the 502 Hscope. Have you tried using using a usb mouse with the snap-on? It makes things a little quicker.

@BlainesGarage yes , I have used the mouse. That is a great feature. My first error after finding the first really interesting waveform on it was to zoom as far out as i could before saving it. Learning curve with everything I guess. I really did like it on the monitor, possibly see if any computer board repair shops want to take a shot at it.

@Jpilgrim30 just a samsung s6 in a bouncy Amazon case. It works just the same with Erin's a7 tablet or my phone. It is not very demanding on the tablet at all!

@@andrewwarren6979 Shure! I have the new one in , I'm making a new video with the transducer in the car now. I also recorded the old starter at the battery with it in a vise. It was a Bosh replacnent starter under there. Drops out on the bench as well

@jessemackenzie6516 Yes , I did point that out in the video when I caught it. It did take me longer than it should have to catch it, though, lol. The more I use hscope, the more I see that I can do. It's like reaching a next level instead of hitting your maximum expectations and needing something that can do more. I have not even delved into the digital and math channels yet. Ravifix did one one using the math channel and crank signal for finding a missfire that I want to replicate. I ordered a micsig 4 channel instead of a pico with the hopes Martin has an automotive license for it so I can run it on hscope. It's specs blew the 4 channel non automotive picos away. It would be nice to have something stronger than the hantek 1008c for 4 channels on hscope. I have a Modis 4 channel, but really like the tablet scopes. I figured at least even if there is not a vato license for hscope , it's software runs on a tablet as well. I downloaded the software already to play around and can really see, I'd rather control it with hscope. Thanks for watching and good eye!

@jitheeshpulikkal4540 Absolutely! The starter test is a good basic test. I am making a video of the old and new starter and will explain more on Hscope!

@eduardoolivo9940 if you mean how many, there are 4 counting the transmision mounts. If you mean price I believe the kit on Rock auto for all 4 was around 80 dollars

@Backalleydiagnostics thnx bro

That's a great scope to start with! Hscope is the most user-friendly out of any I have tried. There is a big enough learning curve to analyzing the waveforms, the less time we have to spend learning how to operate the scope, the more time we have for that. Start small if you haven't already, clamp or hold the leads to the battery and crank it!

@tonyfremont it was only on page mode in the auto nodule that I missed the inrush. I figured it was my error. I'm going to test a few on the bench and see if I can't fine tune the trigger or just use oscilloscope mode in pages? I don't think I need the definition of pages for inrush, but it is pretty cool seeing that much definition on such a small section!

I tried to do a rc but the starter does not stay engaged long enough. Sounding like it does compression was my first thought at 200k. If not for the scope I woukd have had a hard time calling the starter. It came in and finishing it today. On the bench you can still see the drop outs with no load. Sad thing is it is possible that after a starter, the rc coukd still show a weak cylinder. One of those weird scenarios that even for a manual compression you need a starter that cranks. All of the other methods of testing without a starter cost either more money or time than a starter. Car runs well, so I don't think that's the case. It's just a possibility!

@marksplace Welcome aboard! Trying to learn how to better use scopes and keep it on the cheap. I share the adventure because everyone has something to contribute. It makes it more hands on for me and at the same time, paying it forward to anyone who is at where I was. Thanks!

@SMiller-q7c Thanks for that comment. It led me to re check my amp clamp, and it is quite a bit off. My only other means of checking is a handheld multimeter clamp, and it reads 148a . Looks like we need a new starter and amp clamp!

@patrickcallahan2210 It let's me follow allong with instructional videos made on higher end scopes, and it's on my tablet . Very enjoyable to learn on and actually use. My old eyes like the pinch to zoom over buttons! Pkus if I blow it up I'm only out 100, worst case scenario but it would be my error

@joeydube420 That seems to be an issue, breaking while moving . Puts the control arm through the rim. This side looked easy peasy from the side until I saw they left no access. Once I figured out the combination, I figured if it saved someone the hastle, it was worth passing on. Moogs are still my go to, gives you piece of mind!

@survivingga I've seen them and thought about getting a kit. Never got around to it yet but it's awesome that you put it to automotive use! Pip n spout! Ever try secondary with it ?

@Backalleydiagnostics not yet. My first secondary probes are on their way from Rotkee right now.

@CampingNstuff The Autel scopes do look impressive. After the learning curve of where things are, they all are good enough. They all do have things they are handy or better at. For example,wheel speed sensors the uscope just won't get when others do. I always blame the ac coupler but not certain. I have seen some vids of the older hantek software and was going to see if I could downgrade to try it out. Thanks for that tip, or I am sure I would have regretted trying it. I thought the interface looked simpler, but looks can be deceiving. Thanks!

@ the older Hantek SW if you make a big jump in time base like from 5mS/Div to let’s say 50mS/Div I would Get an instant blue screen of death. Also if I would exit out of the SW before unplugging the scope same result . The one you’re using in the video is a far cry better and works really well on my Surface pro 7 running windows 11 .

@chrisingram7277 I hear you on the lift but ya , better to get this stuff on any way we can. There has been a few names to the Lanolin products, Crown, fluid film, woolwax, even pb blaster has one now. Creep n Crawl is Woolwax cavity wax, I use that the first year, then every 5. Better than the old undercoating that was meant mostly for rock chips like the rubber and por15. Seems when you seal that frame with the drying type, the frame is rotted worse behind it. The one dodge I did had a piece of por15 the size of a dinner plate with nothing but powdered rust behind it where the frame once dwelled. Looked cherry from the outside but was just a piece of paper thickness. Woolwax and FF have the "straw" color, but the blackout is the biggest demand. Especially on trucks. I don't like the black on light vehicles though. If it creeps, it's real noticeable. Best thing I like about any of the products is if you ever need to service brake lines. A little greasy but better than rotted!

@@Backalleydiagnostics It does make the brake lines last, had to replace my lines last year on a 2005 vehicle, there was a section of lines wrapped in insulation between the firewall and engine exhaust. Pia to change but got it done.

@@dgoulian Totally slipped my mind, I added them to the description. Thanks!

Thanks Dennis! Fluid film has caught on slow around Pittsburgh, I originally looked into it for my 97 conversion van that came from Arizona. Right above us in NY, they film regularly like an oil change. The whole way to Michigan and North it is more common. I'm sure in Canada you heard of FF long before I did. Feels good to have something to fight the salt with, it seems the more modern little townships have gotten, the more salt they sling and squirt. Like a status symbol of sorts. Far different than growing up with rear wheel drives that spun and slipped down the road, even with bags of sand in the trunk lol. We needed salt more then, and they acted like they were sprinkling flakes of gold on the roads. Now they even plow and salt the alley! Have a good one, take care!

@@Backalleydiagnostics we get 5 1/2 months of it where I live! if anyone should FF, it's me🤣🤣🤣 just gotten too lazy:) and I've been doing some math lately on 5yr vehicle trades vs driving them in the ground ... it is more costly but not by as much as we might think we'll see if my tune will change 5yrs from now:)

@john82324 No problem at all and welcome! The tablet is an older Samsung s6 but I've used A series and could not tell the difference. The tablet does not have to be newer or anything high spec, hscope even runs on old android phones. To use the 1008c with the hscope software, you have to purchase the automotive license for it. I can't remember the actual price but believe it was under 20 dollars. Hscope runs the 1008c fine, but the only voltages available are 2.4 and 19v. I think that the 1008c performs better on its native windows software for faster moving signals. Hscope is much easier to use the Hantek with, but the resolution with multiple channels on is more choppy on hscooe than it's software. The 2.4 and 19v as the only 2 voltages on hscope make it so you are either under or over shooting on 12 v. The HS502 and 512 run excellent on hscope and is the platform they were meant to be run on with multiple voltage ranges. Its a good way to get used to the hscope platform, but if I were going to use the 1008c to diagnose a problem, I believe I would use the laptop and it's software. Hope that helps some and any other questions . Feel free to ask! One thing starting out is paying attention to the input ranges of the signal we expect to see and having a scope with ranges that are close in the settings. An example would be the 2.4v range is excellent for 1-2v signals that we see a lot of in vehicles and sensors. The 19v range is excellent for battery voltage, but vehicles have a lot of 5v signals also. The 19v scale would read the 0-5v signal but is trying to read around a quarter of its expected input. Scopes work best close to the max input of their scale without overshooting. Slow signals are not as affected by this as much. Like a crank sensor, 19v scale will pick up a 5v square wave just fine. Can bus however is faster and we are looking for detail. A 5v range is ideal, whether it's built into the scope or if you have a different scope for can bus . Hantek makes a few budget 2 channels with 5v ranges if you do need to expand.

Thank you for all the information. Question on the 502 and 512. Is one better for automotive? Just not sure which one is the right choice. Thanks in advance

@john82324 I use the 512, both are good for automotive but the 502 has a 50v max protection rating compared to 230v for 30 seconds on the 512. I always over protect, like if I forgot to put an attenuator on for a fuel injector or other high voltage spike. The 502 is good for low signals , in mv but can be attenuated for larger voltage. The 512 does work well, even on a 1mv scale but if I were to get into much can bus, I might try a 502. In short they both are good and cover alot of the same areas, but 502 if lower signals are what you expect more, like communication. 512 for ignition and injectors, and if you are like me, the over protection. If I needed to replace my 512 today and Martin only had 502s in stock, I would order the 502 no problem.

That answer lots of my questions thank you. I think I’m going to go with the 512 just to be on the safe side. I can definitely see that this is going to get addicting. I love tool’s and there are so many cool things to buy. Scopes and accessories. Speaking of accessories which brand do you like?

@@josereyes-765HOOK there is a 10mm through bolt on the coupler. There should be enough room to push up on the column side and pull down onto the rack. Moving the wheel helps it slide on correctly, either a helper to jiggle it or by the column shaft underneath. It should slide on fairly easy once aligned. The column sleve is like a slip joint. hope that helps some

@survivingga I do want to pick one of those up at some point. Darren from Mechabic Mindset uses one often with great results. Plus they have very good waveform libraries and most of the "known good" wave forms are in pico format. Thanks for mentioning that scope. Christmas is coming!

@philh9238 I did notice a few misfire looking events, hscope and the hantek would drop the signal momentarily. Uscope and the modis, it looked like a miss. I was attributing it to the uninsulated rca jack or possibly the gdi. Didn't feel like it was missing, but looking back, a pulse sensor would have picked up on it easy enough . Good eye!

I’m new to ignition waveforms. I figured if the burn line goes a way it’s a miss. Still got tons to figure out.

@philh9238 In theory, that is correct. In practice, if I was going to analyze the waveform, I would have made sure it was up to operating temp. The fast idle is coming down, iacs affect the wave for sure. With the Uscope, the engine was overnight cold start. Once it is warm and usually higher rpm, I look for repetition. That's when you woukd want to take single images and do measurements. The engine has a harder time breathing at idle, but the ignition has an easier time. Higher rom, the engine breathes easier and we start stressing the ignition. Thats where I'd look for a more classic wave form to look at ignition. Hope that makes sense! Take care !

Good content.

@djmobileauto Thanks DJ ! I was making a few test leads and figured show all of the scopes on the same signal to kind of help anyone considering any of them. After all, I bought them all lol. The Uscoope I had a few non gdi injectors that fell into weird areas. I believe chevy spider injectors the x10 attenuator looked very small and lost definition. No attenuator it overscaled slightly but looked very good. I believe I only have an ac and a x10 for the Uscope. Thanks for the warning on the GDI, you probably saved my Uscope! Take care!

How did the gdi injector affect your uscope? Thanks

In my opinion, grab the HSCOPE. It much better

@mlieser1230 I have never used the handheld 2 channels but have seen Darrin from Mechanic Mindset use one. He seems to like it but when you do find an issue, he has a Picoscope to fall back on. That is where if you only do have 1 scope and for the price the Hs501 and 512 from Martin Lauren can get you more definition and ease my older eyes. It's under 100 bucks and you use an android tablet or phone for the screen. It actually uses the androids bandwidth to get you a very long buffer to review data. Any scope is good if you match it to what you intend to use it for in advance. The handheld is more convenient to store and use, just keep the buffer length in mind. Like is it a hard miss that you are actively under the hood watching? Or do you need to wait for an intermittent misfire or perform a few snap throttles and jiggle wires to make it miss? The buffer would be key on the second scenario. Good luck with whichever one you choose and be sure to let me know what you think of the handheld if you go that route!

I use the scope that Advanced Level Diagnostics uses. Ivan from Pine Hollow also uses it. I use it all the time to diagnose CAN Bus issues. It has excellent specs for the price. I would recommend it. The HSCOPE does not have better specs than the handheld one I use. I think the Uscope is too expensive for what you get with only 1 channel and the specs.

@ChiefDLK Yes , that seems where people like the handhelds . I might pick one up in the future. I've seen the tablet style as well that seem interesting. They all seem to have a purpose you get acquainted with them. The Uscope, while not the most useful, will always have a place in my heart. First scopes always do lol. I figured put out what economy ones I do have, I wish I woukd have seen more of the same signal on different scopes when I was looking. You see some good scopes on a tough primary and then some weaker scopes on an easier one , it makes things muddy. A handheld might be the next on the list. Thanks for dropping by!

Thanks Marc! Yes, the Hantek does do well with its own software. With hscope, it seems to me anyway the Hanteks with a 5v input would be better suited. On its own software, it is very usable indeed. It had been a while since I used it with windows, but I still found it easy to remember how to run it. I just remembered it looked better on its own than the last time I used it with hscope and wanted to give it a go again. I'm happy I did re acquaint myself with it, and it was nice to see it not struggle at all with 3 different signals! The Hantek did come with the most accessories also. Makes it easier to get into than needing all of the leads upfront. Especially like us, if anyone goes the Hantek route and wants to make leads. I think It is easier to worry about making your next lead than making your first lead that you need to use your new scope. Even the automotive module is a nice touch to get started. I did not use it on automotive for this and still had all 3 signals on the screen when I turned the key. Take care and thanks for commenting!

@arthurfricchione8119 Hi Artie ! Yes, I think the last guy over torqued the bolts. The one that is cracked was finger tight coming out. Also, beings, it was changed previously, there is no way of telling how bad it overheated then. Add that to another overheating and not much to work with. I have a 318 in my conversation van with 215,000 on It, I run a 180 fail safe thermostat to keep it running tops. Heat is limited in the winter, but I can drive 100 miles, and the block is only lukewarm to the touch, old mopars are cold blooded and like to stay that way. Take care Artie! I'll probably be putting a motor in it in the parking lot!

@@Backalleydiagnostics Eric thanks for the reply. To me your channel explains stuff so the everyday mechanic can understand what’s going on in the real world mechanics shop . Your clear way of explaining issues is excellent at least to me your everyday Diyer . Say hello to Erin and waiting possibly for the engine swap 👍

@arthurfricchione8119 Will do Artie and thank you! I am going to be tuning up that 68 beatle soon as well. I'd like to see some waveforms out of that classic! Thanks again!

@MarioVillarados Hi, those are the aesWave leads that came with the Uscope. They are mcx jack type to banana jack. Then I just plug Fluke, Hantek, or homemade leads into the banana jack. They sell a mcx to bnc adapter as well for using any accessories you might aquire with bnc jacks.

@@Backalleydiagnostics do you have a video of this i apologize iam just now getting into scopes

@MarioVillarados Stick around, I'm going to do a video of all the different entry level scopes I have. Kind of one like I wish I would have seen before buying alot of what I did not need. Quality leads are essential, the Uscope I do not make leads for. I use its adapter that has banana jacks, it came with the uscope master kit I believe. Banana jacks and bnc are pretty much universal, you can use multi meter leads if you wish. The input on the uscope is kind of its own connector, nothing else has its input so the only leads needed for it are the bnc and banana adapters. After that you can use leads from any scope or meter. Any questions you have,I'll do my best!