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@@titofuentez2340 haha, No I'm not that big of a TH-camr. I will tell you that you have to pull the PTO off the back. Pull the bill gear off that side to get at the bearing...on the inside. Pull the axle shaft I can't remember about the outer bearing though. I did a write up with pictures on a tractor forum if your interested I can point you to it

I'm not sure if it was that bearing or not. Sounded like one to me. I replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings there. I haven't heard it since.

@@natevanlandingham1945 Thank you Sir.

I can look. I believe it's a medium corn and the other is a bean plate. I'll look for you this week or weekend.

Ok I pulled them out the corn side is Large Corn looks like CPB 5132. It's a 4 cell plate. And the "bean " side is a Small Corn CPC 5044. Its an 8 cell.

Man id have to say this is one of the most random comments I have ever gotten 🤷🏻‍♂️🤣🤣🤣

Yes

Cool!

It's the crank sensor. I can get back to you later with the deso part number if you need.

​@@natevanlandingham1945yes please lol😂

I'm not a professional TH-camr, but I will try to remember here in a few weeks when I am messing with it., To make a video. Basically the planter has a rod on the front side bottom that hooks into some notches/dogs on the planter base. The rear pulls down to the base, I believe it has an ear that catches onto the base and there is a metal spring clip/wire thing that latches it to the base. The whole thing is driven off the rear axle drive sprocket via a chain that goes back to the base to turn the sprocket on the planter base . Your A I am 95% sure drives off the driver side or left rear wheel and has a bracket system that transfers the drive chain through a rod and gear bracket to the passenger or right side of the tractor.

@@natevanlandingham1945 Nate thanks for the reply. Yes the drive works as you described. I just need to see the details of how it drives the hopper. Also the hopper bottom and how it is mounted to the drive. I might be able to modify the Cole Duplex planter slightly to work. I'll keep looking for a used set-up on FB Marketplace also. Thanks again, Ken

@@natevanlandingham1945 Hello Nate, I was able to pick up some more parts for the side mount planter so I don't need a video of how it works. I've got it figured out now. Thanks again. Ken

@@customcutter100 cool!

Yes I have. I have cut brush as in small trees, black berries, grass as tall as me. Pretty much if you can run it over the bush hog will cut it up! It sounds awfully and you might was to duck down cause it sometimes launches stuff Foward!😳 And make sure you have a slip clutch or the proper shear bolt so that it busts or slips if it hits something really hard. I will trim my field edges with a pol saw and then run over the branches to basically mulch them up.

@@natevanlandingham1945 my yanmar is I believe a 1500 4wd from the mid to late 70’s it a manual tranny so I’m it sure about the slip clutch or is that something that’s on the brush hog. Could it handle a 6ft or is a 4 better ?

@@thesmokinggent499 if it's a 1500 it's the smaller frame size than this one. It's a late 70s model same era as this one. This is just a size larger. Your going to only want a 4ft! This tractor can handle a 5ft but in thick stuff I can only handle a 4ft..like in tall grass that's all it wants. And I have 5 more pto HP than you. A slip clutch is on the bush hog PTO shaft. If it doesn't have a slip clutch it will have a shear bolt which is just the cheaper way to protect the tractor. It still works, I have shear bolt PTO shafts. Just make sure you don't put grate 8 bolts in there as some people do cause of the inconvenience of having to replace bolts when they break🤣🤣🤣 There there for a reason. Replacing a $0.25 bolt is better than the PTO gears !!! Hit something really hard and something has to give. You don't want it to be ANYTHING on your tractor. Even twisting off a drive shaft will cost you $100 or more dollars possibly!

Most tractors don't have down pressure. But yes they need loots more weight on them. But if I put too much I can't lift them and keep the front down. If I put another 100 pounds back there it will get about neutral weight when I lift it. Tires will mostly ride on the ground but run over a stick and they pop up in the air and I ride the disk like a wheelie bar😂 then it will settle back down. I really should of ripped it or plowed it first. But the chisel plow I have is also too big and it doesn't pull well at all on tight ground and is really slow going. If you keep going round and round you can eventually get down deeper .

@@natevanlandingham1945 I wonder if a pull behind type plow might do better for you? th-cam.com/video/ZbvjSYV9gCU/w-d-xo.html

@@andrewseamans1419 for sure, it's needed to be bottom plowed first. Didn't feel like hooking up the cub and plowing and I don't have a plow for the Yanmar.

What? Edit: I just realized what your talking about. I saved that bundle for decoration. Will save some more as well. All that grass is so bad cause I didn't get a last cultivation on it. You can see the greener stalks of the late corn beside it...didn't have as much grass around them.

Crankshaft sensor and part number 196-1114

I sometimes set it like that to put more weight on one gang to get it to cut better.

No I didn't use the thermostart. I don't even have any fuel in the cup for it. It will start without issue down to around 30F. Colder than that I really have no reason to be on the tractor. We don't get snow here really so I don't push snow around.

@@natevanlandingham1945 I’ve had a really good mechanic tell me that if compression, valve’s etc and battery is in good shape you really don’t need till down about 20 degrees

It was random misfire and it was on all 8 cylinders. When I had a scan tool on it certain sensors misfired more though. Mine would ONLY do it at idle with the AC on. So it had to have a light load but only at idle. Once I accelerated or was driving it wouldn't misfire. Have you confirmed your timing belt hasn't jumped. That was like one thing I did early on.

@@natevanlandingham1945 Well. never say never. Took it on a longer drive today and got some misfires on acceleration. I have not confirmed anything on timing belt. I'm down to just mainly two cylinders misfiring plus the random code. Hate to even go there with timing belt talk, still have a few options to try first unless something is really pointing to that. Thanks

@@humanbeing77 you can pull the bolts on the timing covers and see the marks. If I remember right the driver one pulls off easy but the passenger side of you just pull the top bolts out you can pry it back enough to see if the marks line up. Pretty bad I can't remember but it's been over a year since I did my timing belt. Also worth noting after you turn the engine over once the marks on the belt no longer line up but once every so many revolutions if I remember reading right...so what I'm saying is the marks on the belts most likely won't line up when you spin to TDC, look at your cam marks. Checking the belt shouldn't take more than 15 mins if you know what your looking for. Looking at my belt when I removed it, had about 150k on it. Looked good I know it probably would go another 100k. If you have a quality belt I don't see why others would differ. But with the chance of destroying your engine, it's not worth chancing it. Another thing, I'm sure at this point you have swapped coils on those two plugs to see if it stays on those two cylinders mostly?

@@natevanlandingham1945 Yeah this belt only has 20k on it. I need to replace radiator anyway, would have lots of room to work, especially if I took off serpentine belt like the service manual calls for to get at the camshaft position sensor. I want to check cam and crank sensors. Yes I did swap ignition coils around and the misfire stayed on the cylinders, though now it has migrated to a totally different cylinder, it is generally on bank 1 though, mostly 1 and 5 or 3 and 5 but has moved around to bank 2 as well. A coil could be intermittently going weak, but I even got a misfire on a brand new Denso coil. After driving it around like I was on Winston Cup with no problems I have a hard time believing it is ignition...I think I'll check timing and those 2 sensors next. Also have PCV valve on the way, cheap for what it is worth might as well throw it in.

@@humanbeing77 yea. No way three went bad all at once and only at partial throttle. I'm sure it's a sensor. On mine it was all 8, I knew it wasn't plugs or coils, no way they all go bad. I did swap plugs because it was time per my maintenance system but I knew it wouldn't change anything.

Thanks. I started the cub up right before that. I was going to make one of that but I forgot. It didn't like starting as much. It started right up but cut off a few times and I had to restart it. Didn't feather the choke enough. But it was like 5 seconds after it had run it cut off. Anyway still good for a 70 year old tractor I thought. I let it run about 10 minutes then cut it off and did the YM.

Fuel pressure was something that was mentioned to me by a buddy as a possible reason for misfire. But my misfires we're at idle. Once off idle or even under acceleration it didn't miss. At high speed or heavy acceleration there was no issue. A weak duel pump or clogged filter would show up in these situations also which is why I didn't think it was low fuel pressure.

@@natevanlandingham1945 I have low fuel pressure too. My Toyota Lexus certified mechanic who has his own indie shop ran a lot of different tests 2 weeks, including a smoke test in an effort to properly diagnosis what is triggering the check engine light. He feels certain the fuel pump is the problem, wish is probably triggering the left and right bank lean codes. Order a crank sensor last night after watching your video will arrive tomorrow via Amazon Prime. I may try to swap it out myself.

@@BryanDavidSmithMusic I'd say if you have low fuel pressure there is a pretty good chance thatay be the source of your problem, especially in high demand situations like under acceleration. Could be a clogged fuel filter, have you changed that (it's located on the inside of the frame right about where the driver seat is, maybe about where the back of the driver door is)? Often times ones it gets that bad the pump will go out shortly after a new filter is installed anyway cause it's been working so hard to supply fuel through a restricted filter.

@@natevanlandingham1945 I switched out the Crank Sensor on my '07 Sequoia - SR5 -RWD night before and it's like I now have a total different Sequoia. WOW!! What a gigantic difference it made. It also cleaned up 12 different codes that vanished after I retested, including all the misfire codes. It also corrected a high speed engine roar and vibration I was getting between 60 -70 mph. It also corrected a serious lag in acceleration (auto downshifting) when I floored it doing 40 or 50 miles an hour. That is best $35 dollars I have spent in LONG time. Only took me about 30 minutes to swap out the sensor. I now only have two codes in the check engine, which are lean codes right and left bank. A new Denso fuel pump has been ordered and a new fuel filter arrived today, which should solve the low fuel pressure issue and stop the check engine light. I hope, I hope. Thanks again for posting this video. Cheers!

@@BryanDavidSmithMusic I'm glad it helped. When I had my issue it was like everyone said that's crazy. It has to be plugs or wires or something else. One of the fixes that worked a very small amount of time was this fix. That is what my buddy who is a mechanic at a dealership said their computer said but it was not a common fix. It was usually other things. Again I am glad it worked for you.

😳🤔🤷🤣🤣

Doubt it's the oil seal. But that would be pretty cool if so that's not hard. I did that oil seal and wear collar maybe 8 years or so ago. To get the bearings off that shaft I have to pull the PTO unit out of the backs it comes out as an assembly. There is a nut on the bull gear you take off from the inside. Then you pull the bolts out of that axle housing and the whole housing comes off then pull that shaft out of the housing...I think...the shaft may pull out without removing the housing...I think this is more likely thinking about it. So I should be able to pull shaft once free from the bull gear. A guy on a forum with me said the job only lists 1.5 hrs for a pro so it can't be that involved. Not saying I can do it in 1.5 hours. Heck I would be cleaning the sealing surfaces for half that time cause I want to make sure I have a good seal.

Its always the little things. I am going to do both bearings since I'm in there. Literally $25 of bearings for several hours of labor!!

Didn't want to fool with that. I have a disk turn plow for the Cub. But didn't want to hook it up and go that route. Hind sight is 20/20, the time I spent disking, useing a field cultivator to rip it, then disking, then de grassing, then ripping and then disking again I could of plowed it and disked it. I was behind this year where I wanted to be . These videos are way behind. The corn is up about 8"s right now. I just planted deer corn to play this year, next will probably be some sweet corn. Hastings maybe

Ha, channel is a generous description of the random video postings. I need to read and figure out how to make a brand channel or whatever to separate some of these videos out, more personal stuff on my name and some other name for the others.

Was there any wear on the spindle? Are the bearings new or used. If they have small wear patterns it can be load. Small wear marks will roar more than everything perfect shiney and new.

@@natevanlandingham1945 The trailer I got for my brother so the bearings are from 2007 I'm going to contact a trailer place and replace the bearings and go from there I did notice inside the hub there was some rust a little bit not where the bearings go but in between. I didn't know what to spindle was I'm assuming it's the piece of metal that the hub sits on That was clean and shiny

@@Ryan-yi6su yea the spindle is the middle shaft the bearings ride on. It only needs to be shiny and smooth where the bearings ride.

As long as there's no play in the wheel, just keep an eye on it and check their heat at the ramp. Mine sound rough but still cool after a trip to the ramp and no play.

There are a lot of good videos on them. I watched many myself. I won't be able to do better than they do. I want to post more I just either don't feel like filming or don't take the time too. Yea 92 is a bit different, I think minor engine diffence, fender flares are different and I know the exhaust is different, muffler and pipe. I also just squires a 98 which should be identical to the 92 I believe. It's in much rougher condition.

@@natevanlandingham1945 I know what ya mean, I have a few yt vids as well and most times I just dont feel like setting up the camera or doing any editing but yeah, doing the 98 from the ground up would be cool and beneficial to those who have these prehistoric creatures..lol

@@diveranger100 well we have already missed taking tire off welding up the rusted rim...painting that one, but 3 more need to be painted. Did the first wash thing already. Cleaned the rust of of the gas tank. I cleaned the carb once but it's still not right, idles too highm need to go back into it. Put a new petcock on it. I'll try to force myself to just use the phone and take short videos and just splice them together on maybe the rim process. The carb is well documented by lots and would really slow me down as I was tearing into it to film it

Possible, you can buy a cheap brand and install it in a few minutes and see. I bought a Denso, and believe it cost me $50-75. Mine was .is fireing so bad it was blinking the check engine light.

Kind of. I have a copied one somewhere. I can probably tell you anything you need to know though if you have a specific question? They can be found. It's virtually the same tractor as a Ym240 and you can probably find one on eBay or Hoye tractor sells reprint copies like I have. I do have a ym240 service manual. And other than the color, reverse throttle to match US standard and an internal over run clutch the american version is identical to the grey model ym2000

Cool, glad to hear that it helped. I found almost nothing on this issue. Glad I helped narrow down the issue. I tried everything trouble shooting and this about all I could find left to cause the issue.

I should get the part for po300 tomorrow it doesn't look that hard to swap after watching your video... I had three misfires, Po300 , 301 and 302. I changed the both coils for code Po301 and Po302. That checked out, it had two bad coils. 301 and 302 that would be the front two coils parallel to each other. After changing the two coils it no longer had po300 but I do not want to risk it. I purchased a timing kit and new tensioner pully, fan clutch bracket, we did a full tune-up and head gaskets replaced.. I don't know if by doing all of that my truck got more output and messed up that sensor or it's just old and it's wear and tear. anyways I'll let you know after I change it tomorrow. Thanks again have a good night.

@@natevanlandingham1945 I found the part for cod Po300 on Amazon prime for about $16 bucks.

@@KingMoses. I try to only use Denso parts so I paid about $60 I think for it. But either way not that much money

@@natevanlandingham1945 you're probably right I should get a better brand... If my SR5 wasn't that old I probably would have got a better quality Part. let's see how long it last shall we. 😉

Nope, just at idle under a slight load. Bring it off idle any and the miss would totally go away.

@@natevanlandingham1945 was it also sputtering intermittently? Mine is doing that

@@BryanDavidSmithMusic no. Mine just had a misfire at idle. And only with the AC going in gear. Once driving it didn't miss, rev it up it didn't miss and without AC on even at idle it didn't miss. The AC put just enough load on it at that rpm to cause the miss fire.