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I pretty much use the same method. I'm lazy and haven't had to break down my airbrushes for months at a time (other than pulling the needle). The only thing I do differently is I only backflow the air when cleaning, not to mix paint. If the barrel is already full of thinner, putting in the correct ratio of paint/thinner afterwards - a quick mix with a brush will mix properly, and then a blast on a paper towel will push out the pure thinners in the front and now you're loaded for bear. I also don't bother buying branded airbrush cleaners. Distilled water first to dilute and dump the remaining paint in the cup (with a backflow) then just follow up with 90%+ Isopropyl alcohol <- much cheaper than a branded 'cleaner' and absolutely devours acrylic paint/medium. Spraying out the clean alcohol and then 'priming' it with fresh thinners, you're ready to go again. I personally use vallejo airbrush thinner and retarder with all my acrylic paints regardless of brand... not due to brand loyalty, but just due to availability of the products - and they work. (The only caveat here is if you're using a paint product with a proprietary thinner like Mission Models - cleanup is still the same) buying a small trashcan with liners/bags dedicated to dumping paint/water/alcohol out of the airbrush while cleaning also really speeds things up for me.

Does it give enough air for painting a model or painting a model, how long can it be operated continuously or how to use this compressor?

I have/had one of these. I live in the tropics. Humidity here is not too different from that of Bikini Bottom. Mine has been running perfectly for maybe 7 years, I forgot exactly when I bought it. Couple weeks ago, a hole exploded and shot water out. The compressor is still working. But I have read trying to seal the hole in the storage tank is not worth it and potentially dangerous. It was 100% user error. I did not know we had to drain out the condensation from the tank. It must have become so badly rusted inside, the pressure finally broke the metal.

Does the round table spin manually or automatically?

Mine is not starting at all. I think it got too hot. What do you think could be the cause

Someone has never assembled Tyranids. Lol, no these are all good tips, and the blutc / sticky tack is exatly how I used to stand up green-stuffed models so the parts could cure without "squashing".

This was like watching a train wreck in slow motion...

how do you replace the filter

Good old Vince advise ;)

Quite tempted by this kit myself. Especially since you say the airbrush itself is fine. Did it eventually pack it in?

What size drain plug is this? I’ve started using mine again and can’t find it anywhere.

WHATS THAT NOISE!?!? IM SHAKING MY PAINT! WHAT!? IM SHAKING MY PAINT LICK YOUR TAINT? NO NO , IM ……SHAKING ….MY PAINT

Hello, I have the same compressor, but unfortunately it hasn't switched off since yesterday. It's running continuously. Do you know which component is responsible for this? Greetings

I've already bought some of these, but didn't really have the confidence to try them out blindly. thanks for this, I'm feeling pretty good about it now

there is a seal between the front and back of the airbrush that requires the needle. I don't think you should completely remove the needle with liquids still in the front of the airbrush because it can allow those liquids into the back where it is much more difficult to clean, especially if it makes it all the way back to the air valve.

Thanks!

Thank you so much for this my dude! BTW YES those 2 screws being over tightened make the baby run forever. Almost blew mine up before finding this vid!

How do you know the compressor has finished draining? Do you just leave it for awhile and trust it's had enough time or is there a trick to ensuring that the inside is now dry?

Hi Dave, it's been 3 years since you uploaded this video. Is this booth worth getting? Right now I will go out of my house to airbrush my Gundam but I'm thinking of getting this to avoid the hassle. How is the smell? I will be airbrushing the kits in my room but I'm afraid the smell will linger in my room and possibly spread to my house. I will open my windows but I'm still afraid it won't work. And is your booth still in operation? What sort of maintenance do you have to do?

Nice work

Useful video. I just got started with a Timbertech airbrush, slowly getting the hang of it... Unfortunatly tip clogged so now I'm here 😅

why bubble up?

My piston keeps slipping off where it is attached to the rotator. Anyone had this problem and have a fix?

My compressor has weak pressure.almost no pressure.what is the problem?

Don't listen to this guy he's just exploring and breaking his shit as he goes

Good find. Perfection lies in the tiny details. Thanks for sharing. ✌✌

Wow. Thorough and well presented. Perfect for a newbie like me. You even showed a flow diagram. That's rare. I will definitely check out your other stuff. Thank you ✌

Bro does a legit review of a product and paints a dick as a demo. Absolutely legend. Subscribed! 😂

I’ve been looking for someone who did this! Thank you for the video!

What do you mean if you shake it more than 3 times ??

This is just fiddling around..not a structured approach… If you don’t know the parts..it’s just an ask for troubles…

I have a jar with boiled water next to me, and after a few sprays I pull out my side cup, clean it with the hot water, also put some hot water in my brush, and use a brush to clean the nozzle top, and spray some hot water, and then I am ready for a next round of colorspraying.

Youre a life saver, I have been cleaning my airbrush by shooting cleaner through it. I will always pour out the cup. Thanks!

Thanks, Dave.

This isn’t what I was searching for but this is a godsend. I have grayish floors and these things fly faster than toenails

Ive been airbrushing for years and i never knew i could adjust the tension of the trigger, I just dealt with the cramps after long sessions lmaoo

Should of turned the bottle upside down

I love the premise of Malifaux but making the models is infuriating. The instructions on Wyrd Games website are as much use as a chocolate teapot. I don't see many people showing M3E build videos - presumably because they struggle with the microscopic parts and lack of instruction. Currently building Eternal Flame - which should be pretty easy. "Should!" But balancing the arms whilst I work out which is left and right, and which goes on first is a task that requires more than mere blu-tack. I'm following your advice and still struggling :P

OMG thank you! TBF I didn't watch the video but having the link to air compressor parts have saved me so much of a headache. My Hobby air compressor of 15 years had the solenoid pressure switch give out and (at least in the US) it is living hell trying to find parts to repair. Airbrush-fenga not only had the pressure switch but all the gaskets, o-rings, and even the mushroom plug check! I can rebuild this thing now, after weeks and months of cracked brain searches I can finally sit back and wait for the parts. Take that anti-consumer, anti-repair, US economy! Edit: This video will work for many different brands from Fenga to Timbertech to no name ebay. The AS186 Air compressor is a standard item that is build and sold under various brands.

thanks for the video, i got a new FD186 to replace an old second hand AS186 (that's leaking everywhere, cracked fittings trying to fix issues, nothing that's unfixable but didn't want to wait) and I was confused about not being able to open the drain valve. turns out indeed only needed something tighter than my fingers. however, i don't think it's necessary to wait for the pressure to drop to drain the tank: if you start turning, it will open progressively, so you can really control how much pressure there is, and i think that helps get rid of most of the water (that was the issue on my old one, left it a few weeks without draining the tank, started it with orange water in my water trap, the water trap valve was also stuck... rust in the fittings as well)...

I feel like the pressure switch cable would benefit from having some spade connectors added. Save the twisting dance with the motor. Assume they screwed in first then wired when making it. 🤷‍♂️

This Vid answered my concerns regarding maintenance and do's and don'ts, specially in regards to the moister trap, thanks bruv.

good stuff

How can I prevent clogging internally with the airbrush? It's painting fine today and the next day it always clog inside for me, even worse if it was after a priming session

My compressor warms so much that stops working do u know what the issue ? It gets so hot that's I can't touch it but before that happens it works just fine

Hey. I have a new one, almost the same model. Only that emergency air exit is coming strait from the black tank, no other connections, just like a belly button. I don’t know if that’s a design problem, but the tank never stops filling. The airbrush is new and the hose came with the air compressor, so no leaks. Any ideas why it never stops? Any dangers?

Dude really is that a representing your slf? Naughty

You ground wire is not connected! 0:24 Looks like it is a fault with every one of the compressors that look like this. If something goes wrong the case is at mains voltage.

Is it soooo necessary to show us your 2nd class painting skills? I have bought this thing and I will try it now. Thanks for the hint with the sharp brushes. Well, it is not the "evolution". I will see.

water mixable oil use two adjuvents, an emulsifier and a surfactant agent (<1%). Did you tried the artisan thinner ? it is basically half a mono propylene glycol and water and such ... both the paint range and thinner are meant to adhere to water and oil. Usually they massively mix oils and mineral spirit or such, both are hydrophobic. The mineral water evaporate quite quickly (hence the VOCs...) and got a viscosity close to water, and keep a strong surface tension (that leads like the enamels wash to quickly ran through the recesses by it s own, capilarity effect). Here might be the catch : the thinner is hydrophilic, more viscous than water (~20 25 times in a 50/50 mix) i dunno about its resultant surface tension, and that might keep water along for a longer time. To conclude, the result may be way harder to sponge up properly than with regular oil, what do you think ? Lastly, the artisan line is suspected to keep even dried a kinda tacky touch feeling, did you notice it ?