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@@johnelwer3633 Dear John I have used thin oil, but this question is an age old one, I have used non toxic baby oil when doing kitchen knives even, below is a link that may help answer your question, kind regards Arthur. www.woodworkforums.com/archive/index.php/t-7085.html

@@dfu1685 no problem glad you liked it.

@@MrSongs4me IT was a while back, probably 2 years ago, but it was off an online store I got a set of 3, I just typed in carving discs just now and there's still a variety of different styles being sold online.

@@etpetnel thankyou for watching

@@RonElam-c6g yes I have done many jobs out of those, " I'll use that one day things" too, as well as recycled items and materials

@@merlin1346 you are certainly right, and with this type you could customise it to suit different rifles by simply making the cradle to suit but use the same base, thanks for watching.

@@neiledwards8931 no problem I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.

@@unreadble I actually don't do heaps of wheels but if you could make some sort of boring bar set up with a fly cutter to the profile you want, this maybe faster, probably like a rosette cutter or checker cutter / draft piece cutter, except have your boring bar that holds the cutter the size of your axle hole., so you pre drill the hole and run the cutter boring bar through it so everything runs true,and flip the wheel and do the other side if you want. It's a bit hard to explain, but I hope this may help you, regards Arthur.

@@stevencastelletti577 any soft wood or semi hard wood, one that preferably doesn't split away to easily. Practice on some scrap to get your angles right and your confidence, then I'm sure you'll be right to go . Thanks for watching kind regards Arthur.

@@fflife6730 I hope it works well for you, if you want them harder or softer look at the colours on a tempering steel colour chart there is plenty on image searches.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 You offer a lot of great advice on your channel. Just my good fortune stumbling across one of your videos I guess. Subscribed immediately. Great content. I wish you a million subscribers. And thanks for the response.

@@Pavleone glad you liked it

@@Gator-357 sounds great thanks for your comments and inputs, I'll have to try this pry bar one, I have used them for other stuff too.kind regards Arthur

Glad you liked it

No problem thanks for watching

Thanks for watching

Great

Yes I would if you are doing repeat sizing like on stair banisters, and tenons on chairs or stools etc. My friend had a more than one as a production wood turner . Thanks for watching kind regards Arthur.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 Thanks so much for your answer! Now I feel more confident to buy one. I think it’s nice to have this tool because even though I’m not working serially, I can just measure once and don’t have to keep stopping to check the actual size with the caliper.

@@vivibances one tip I will add is if you are setting a size with this tool allows a small amount of oversize for sanding, also when using this tool remember to pull back slightly towards yourself as using, do some tests to get used to it. Regards Arthur.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 Hello, thank so much for you recommendation, sorry I just saw your response today. I already bought it now I’m excited and waiting for my package to arrive in maybe 10 days

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 thank so much for your tips and recommendations, sorry I just read your response, I just bought the Robert sizing tool, im very excited and waiting for it to arrive to Perú.

No problem, thanks for watching

I like it.😀 We'll at least you have a use for it, and I'm sure you could modify your "parking" knife or did you mean paring Knife into the pelican shape which is good for slicing and hollow areas. Thankyou for watching kind regards Arthur

It's been a while since I did this video, what part are you talking about.

Okay thankyou

We'll I can't promise anything but maybe one day I would be able to do a video. As for my lathe made this one in about 1996, my brother machined the headstock spindle and drive spurs, and I made and assembled the rest except the tailstock which I modified which came off an old destroyed metal lathe at a scrap yard. As for a first lathe I would suggest something about 3ft between centres and 6-8 " swing and set it up so centre height is about your elbow height. As for safety, goggles / or shield, some timbers are toxic and can irritate your airways, so a mask is handy at times, it's probably good to get to know some local wood workers/ Turner's in your area to learn about turning and wood types etc. I hope this is a help thankyou for watching kind regards Arthur.

No I just built it to what I thought was right

No problem, thanks for watching.

It really depends on the size of your grinder as they all differ with the brand of grinder you are using, the grinder I am using is a Ryobi grinder that's about 34 years old and it varies to the Makita's and Hitachi 4" grinders I have. I use a length of timber 90×40 mm for the base a short off cut of 100 mm wide C purlin the towers on the sides are made from 16mm ply the height adjustment timber is 42×12 and 42×19mm the threaded rod is 8mm or 5/16 , I hope this helps, regards Arthur.

Thankyou for watching

Thankyou

👍🏼

Thankyou for watching

Thankyou, glad you liked it.

Thankyou

Thankyou

Yes I have made them out of a nut and washer too, and they never functioned for me great, and the swivel ball varies on the end of each clamp, maybe you do them differently to the way I used to, I found this way to be the most effective for me, thankyou for your comment, kind regards Arthur

Hope it helps you

They are not hard to make check out my link to making it and my channel.

It's certainly is and it's great when it works well.

Thanks

Thanks

I actually split the first wedge with a screwdriver that's how it worked, and the first wedge is driven home hard so won't move anywhere.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 Thanks for getting back! Yes of course how did I not see or think of that? Idk? Again havnt seen that before, but then Ive only been rehafting for about 1 year. Staight away it seems that way would be a tighter fit than the usual 2 separate wedges applied on the sides of the 1st wedge, because the main wedge is already seated for depth and your 2nd wedge spreads it to fill any corner gaps..Unigue and simpler then fussing 3 wedges simultaneously it would seem! Thanks so much for sharing! Beauty Day to you!

@@pwaterdu on most of the axe heads I have done the dimensions of the eye or hole in the head are the same roughly top and bottom and you only need the main larger wedge.

I use spotted Gum mostly, and I try to orient the end grain so it runs parallel with, and at the very maximum 45° to the head that's my way of thinking and I don't claim to be an expert but I have done quite a lot of handling of tools over the years with good success , I give a bit more info in the other video I did on axe handles, the link is in the description of this video, try to use clear wood without nail holes or cracks or blood veins as these weaken any handle, I hope you do well, regards Arthur p.s I have a play list on tool handle making also.

So many years ago companies like craftsman, hyco here in Australia called these a jigsaw or pattern saw , mine has a rigid cast top arm and the blade is tensioned at the blade end via a spring and screw. The top arm usually moves up and down on a scroll saw. I have seen these called a scroll saw but in old catalogues a jig saw, probably a preference, the reason I said frame was to explain the rigid top arm, I hope this helps, regards Arthur.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 Ah, thanks for the explanation. In any event, the brackets look nice, and I may try one on my scroll saw.

@@mheermance no worries

Actually probably not as close as it looks, thanks for your concern.

Thankyou for your nice comments

Thanks for your comments I will endeavour to do one, in the near future.

@@acsmakeandrepair3252 Will very much look forward! Thanks in advance

Glad to help