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You're welcome!

Thanks for your response. Even if I agreed the bigger screen helps so much with reversing that it was a must install since I daily the car and need to see when backing out

Absolutely. Pm me or send mail to naigon_akoii@yahoo.com and if you’re in the area we could make it happen

All the libraries I used are CruisingGeek common, which is also on my github account

github.com/CruisingGeek/CruisingGeekCommon

Make sure to download this library and put it in your arduino library folder when compiling your project and it should compile correctly.

Good to know! Thank you very much for the help!

You definitely pay a premium to go to a dealership and it seems the premium is larger the more expensive of a brand you are dealing with.

Honestly I would say not 100% necessary especially if you use the Motul low particle oil (xclean i think they call it). I haven’t accumulated much since running the system meaning it’s not creating too much blow by under normal driving

But I recommend for peace of mind as my Audi TTs was super dirty after 100000 miles

The community calls the 2013-2014 model year LP 560-4 cars "final edition" as there was no differences between the two.

I wish! DCT and adding port injection are two big projects I'd LOVE to tackle both in terms of they would make fun videos but also I just really want them LOL.

Agree, I love my local independent.

I generally don't check the email associated with this account and didn't see it in my main email. Could you try again to naigon_akoii@yahoo.com, that's the one I actually check regularly. Thanks!

Glad I could help!

That's awesome! You are going to love your Gallardo, it has classic lines and is beautiful from every angle. For upgrades, the best I've made are the PS4S tires and the KLA shift paddles. The latter are getting really hard to find, so hope you can get a set. This catch can kit would be a 3rd as it is a great peace of mind but be warned it did start leaking... video coming by next week explaining that and the fix.

Thanks so much! They really enjoyed the car a few years, and just traded it in to land a really nice SUV and they could not be more happy.

Glad I could help! One note - make sure your Pioneer is one that has the audio-style mini jack for the SWC control and editable buttons built-in. Some of them just have a single wire and require an external device to decode the buttons, which works but in my opinion complicates things more.

Yes PPF, clear protection film. I paid pretty much $6,000 for it.

If you mean you want the Arduino wired up with leads to the rotary encoder then definitely. If you are talking about the full custom faceplate and/or hardware for where the rotary encoder lives that would be tough without the car; unless you have a Gallardo and I could just reuse all the hardware I already made. Reach out to me at naigon_akoii@yahoo.com if you want more info and want me to wire up the board.

You MIGHT be able to get away with hooking the rotary encoder directly through the SWC with resistors, but considering how "slow" it read I suspect you would have missed presses when you are turning the knob, so would not work very professionally. The SWC works on a very specific frequency which is why the Arduino is needed to buffer clicks if you turn rapidly.

@@cruisinggeek3640 Yap, you are right. I'm now working on my own head unit, and yes adding a arduino makes it much easier and cleaner. Did you think about using Rpi and LineageOS to make own head unit? I have now a problem that the build of the latest LineageOS for Pi (made by KonstKang) doesn't realy support GPIO programming because android ... and I have no idea how to shut it down safely without touching the screen every time before I get out of the car. And yes, unfortunatly gpio-shutdown doesn't work if added in the config file...

Are you asking which MOSFETs to use? I listed the exact ones I used and bigger/cheaper alternatives in the video description. If you are asking what is a MOSFET, it is basically a switching circuit that allows a low power/voltage circuit (arduino) to switch an external circuit that sucks more power/voltage than can be handled by the arduino.

Yes I was asking, I moved to use digital potentiometer (X9C104 ) which market is full of counterfeit and lastly try to use Analog Multiplexer (4HC4051) which my code was wrong. have try 4HC4051 ? seems be better than each individual mosfet IMO.

Since there's only two channels needed here and I already have a 4-channel individual MOSFET board that seemed to be the best way to go over a more specialized multiplexer. I also prefer the rotary encoder for this application for the infinite spin, and the more compact size fits my specific install space much better.

Well neither. The Gallardo being designed for the 2004 model year is way behind in terms of tech. For the LP/2009 refresh all development went into the new drivetrain and the electronics that run the car are still old school. This is the first car I've owned in over 10 years that doesn't even have auto headlights, you HAVE to turn on the switch when it gets dark LOL (there are daytime running lights that are always on). So yeah, I HAD to use the mic provided by the ATOTO, though I generally don't talk while I'm driving, I'd rather hear my v10 than anyone's voice even my wife, and that's saying a lot LOL.

That exact one I used might not be there but there are tons of 3-packs of pro micro clones www.amazon.com/Hosyond-ATmega32U4-Development-Micro-Controller-Compatible/dp/B09C5H78BP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2Y8WAL13NOKBU&keywords=arduino+pro+micro&qid=1698372198&sprefix=arduino+pro+micro%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

The 360 does mean it spins infinitely. I do not know of a rotary encoder that has more than just the left and right infinite spin and single press button integrated

Ok thank you, also what about the fact that my head unit has only one steering wheel function wire? It is a blue/yellow wire that is part of the wiring harness. The wiring harness I am talking about is the one that has all my power/ground/remote/spkr wires/illumination etc. It is not like yours or some other stereos that have a seperate auxilary input for the SRC. I'm assuming it will still work as long as I use the blue/yellow wire as my power and the ground wire that is part of the wiring harness already. Do you know what I mean?

Yeah... if you have the one wire thing you will need an external mastreo unit to decode the SWC and send to your head unit: www.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MSW-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=asc_df_B00J4W10XG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312765622753&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5761320742676852570&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033300&hvtargid=pla-634754805597&psc=1&mcid=8b004dbd6aa53121aab047d4d9e05c4e&gclid=CjwKCAiA7t6sBhAiEiwAsaieYu-xlK8byy-DeBCZuDSZvgJRWvcTe3pu_BYtehTFSAXKEHYLUcd6ABoCfSUQAvD_BwE

Hey glad I could help! I did that same search before starting this project and was shocked no one (that I could find) had really done it so figured it would make sense to share if I got it working!

It was a bit of a nerve racking experience for sure. I'm glad I got out of there before they did more than just look with confused faces!

Sweet, good luck with your search!

Ferrari might be the only brand that is WORSE at this issue than Lamborghini from what I've seen.

Resistors are just the standard off the shelf 1/8watt through hole ones. I have a stash of them here and just grabbed a couple that were far enough apart and over 1000ohm so that the head unit could differentiate them. Values don't matter too much as long as they are far enough apart that the computer can tell the difference (like don't use a 1,000ohm and then a 1033ohm one). Either an N-channel MOSFET or NPN transistor is needed to switch the higher power draw of the head unit, otherwise you'd be pulling that power straight through the CPU which either won't work or could damage it. I have plently of those small MOSFET boards here from a previous project if you need to buy a couple, though you said you had a pretty tight time crunch.

@@cruisinggeek3640 would you consider making one and selling it ?

@@blastros10 I'm dealing with some health issues currently so not really in a position to do that right now but definitely something I'd consider in the future.

Haha thanks for the comment!

There's two separate issues there: 1. Remove volume knob from aftermarket radio. 2. Get car's volume knob to work. For #1, your best bet is to just a head unit without one. But you could probably pull off the knob and grind down the spindle that sticks out to mostly get rid of it. For #2, it depends on how your car implemented the volume knob and how you want to hack into it. If it is a propriatary system your best bet would be to cut the traces of the PCB it is attached to and solder wires off them (assuming it is just a rotary encoder as I used). Then you could do exactly as I did here. If the factory uses CAN to communicate the buttons and volume you could get a CAN reader to interface with your head unit. Would take some programming but would be less destructive. I cannot really give more advice than that as I haven't solved that and it would differ vehicle to vehicle. Good luck!

It needs to be N-channel, it should be able to handle maybe 0.2amp continuous, though I didn't measure. This is the exact one I used but it is overkill for this application as it is 5amp continuous: www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/755-RQ6E055BNTCR If you are looking for a bigger aka easier to work with through hole package this should work as it is 60v but 0.2amp (200mA) compatible. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/onsemi-Fairchild/2N7000TA?qs=iN0KuJO79KZfCWVKA48bEg%3D%3D

Right now the arduino is used to interface the SWC (steering wheel control) so it does not utilize can bus. You would need to update the programming for outputing the appropriate can bus signal via the PWM pins on the microcontroller and hook that with your radio. Note that most aftermarket head units have SWC though so this method should work, though if you are trying to do a custom volume knob with a factory unit you would probably need the can bus implementation.

You need to download the common library from my share and put that in your arduino libraries folder. github.com/CruisingGeek/CruisingGeekCommon

Audi won't work on Lamborghini's in my area at least since there is a Lamborghini dealership in the area. I've found an independent though Veloce motorsports with Josh who used to work at Lamborghini and he's the best in terms of the work and prices so that that's what I've been doing since this.

Believe it or not I'm dealing with what I believe right now is a very small valve cover gasket leak. When I use the car for a long time it starts smoking near the rear-driver side. I do see some very small hints of wetness around the gasket, so thinking they need to be replaced. This happens as a car this old that wasn't driven much at first tends to have premature failure of the soft bits.

I agree!!!!

What MOSFET did you use?

Really glad it helped! I was surprised when I made this video that no one had done it yet as a volume knob is like the most critical function for the radio.

Yeah Vipers and Gallardo's both compliment each other well - both crazy good looks, both V-10s, but you get the more classic front-engine RWD with the Viper. If you track the 550-2 is amazing but for me in the Pacific NW I cannot give up that AWD, really love it for launching and handling in less than ideal temps.

hi can you help me I can't find the stopwatch.h directory I get an error in the stopwatch.h compiler: no such file or directory Thanks

Glad it worked! If you are not a programmer the easiest way would be to just run a second Pro Mini with this firmware running, and the outputs would be run in parallel. Just make sure all the resistors are unique values so the head unit can read them independently. If you can program you could potentially add code into the same Arduino to read a second input, but I don't recall if there are enough analog inputs for that on the pro mini. Definitely a Mega would support that.

Hey nb1011100, you need to also download the CruisingGeekCommonLibrary from here: github.com/CruisingGeek/CruisingGeekCommon/tree/main/src Put that in your Arduino libraries directory or right in the directory with the main files and it should compile at that point.

I prefer the "Sport" setting as it makes the transmission a bit tighter than normal which helps prevent clutch wear, and makes the exhaust a bit nicer of a note. Corsa is brutal as the shifts are so tight it feels like being punched in the back with every shift, and also Corsa has no upshift protection so you can blow the engine from not shifting so not great for the street.

How many miles are on your car ? Have you had a clutch snap done? Curious as to your clutch life. Do you reverse often ?

Yeah check my follow up video going to Veloce Motorsports, and independent shop run by a mechanic that worked at Lamborghini for years before going solo. Way better service and prices than the dealership.

Surprisingly the pedal is pretty dead from the factory, this is before the days that sport mode actually changed the pedal feel from the factory.

@@cruisinggeek3640 That's unexpected for a car like that. My BMW feels pretty laggy from a start, and I'm hoping I will see at least 2 to 3 tenths of a second improvement in 60 time.

This should work for the branded units as well so long as they have a programmable SWC input settings app where you can lean the buttons from the steering wheel. I admittedly am less familiar with each of those brands though so you would want to play with it or research each brand separately online.

Glad it was helpful!