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@@Rachmat-v8n thanks Rachmat for being (in) the community 💪💚👍 have a good one!

Hello Giuseppe! Thank you for your question and interest in my or our work. In general, iron oxides hinder the polymerisation reaction. Not in all cases, but most. A lot of raw materials can polymerize into a solid, but most of them show a far smaller strength than if you would use just fly ash or metakaolin. That means you need more of the material with the smaller strength. That could be fixed by using hybrid materials like 50% your red soil with 50% metakaolin, etc. The most important thing is to conduct numerous experiments. There is really no way around it. Currently, I have them only in German and English language. I'd like to publish them in Spanish and/or Italian, but that won't happen anytime soon. Much success! Pat

Hello, sorry for only writing now. Its probably the concrete industry who wants to suppress me :D I'm kidding. Try this. from time to time people have problems to reach the content. Let me know if this does not work as well. Best Patrick www.amazon.com.au/Basic-Geopolymer-Formulations-Environmentally-High-Performance-ebook/dp/B0CHWN8YCN/

Hello! Yes, normally you'd need it. Picture it in the following way. Simple activation solutions like in the video are just diluted waterglass with some extra NaOH. If it comes in solution or not is not so important for that step. I do it in the following way: Place WG in a container, dilute with water if too concentrated, then add the NaOH. If you do it in another succession it might effect the dissolution process in a negative way. Good luck, Jeremy!!

Hello! The book about formulations is available in English and German language: www.amazon.de/Basic-Geopolymer-Formulations-Environmentally-High-Performance/dp/B0CH2NZDHP/

On this page you can see all the ones, I published. More are coming up. Wish you a good time. Thanks! www.amazon.de/stores/Patrick-M%C3%BCller/author/B09R6JX49M?ref=ap_rdr&isDramIntegrated=true&shoppingPortalEnabled=true

Hey Rob (I assume), marble dust is CaCO3, a sort of lime. That can be used but wont harden/cure by itself, so only as aggregates. But the properties seem to be good, when used as filler. Fine material on the other hand can cause problems in concretes and that like. It love to give some GP material to a stone carver and learn from him if this works well for him, but haven't done it yet. Best, Pat

Yes, it can. But pay attention when you buy it. I know of people (Amazon comments) who got problems with the police or FEDs because Al powder is very reactive and one can make explo*ives from it.

To be cost effective you would use another kind of geopolymer. There are some which cost about the same as normal cement concrete partly becasue it consist to about 80 % of the same material which is the aggregates, i.e., sand and gravel. Plus we expect a way longer service time then portland cement which is said to be only 50 to 100 years (for PC). Best, Patrick

Hello Polygon2744, If you're working with kaolinitic clay, you can start with the formulation from my video. Try to determine the amount of kaolinite in your clay. The clay used in the video has a 90% kaolinitic content. Let's say yours only has 45% - in that case, you could begin with half the amount of reagents ("activator") and add just enough water to make it workable (you might not need any extra water). Normal clays can be quite challenging to work with because their composition varies significantly. Once you've found a formulation that hardens, the process becomes easier. However, I should mention that my book doesn't include a recipe for "normal" clay geopolymer. I hope this information helps, at least a little. Best regards, Pat

Not as fine as you are but my recipe it’s much more simple and cheaper

Hey Michael, thanks for your suggestions. The experiments with diatomaceous earth we performed in the university didn't work and then I rather persuade other projects. I have a hugh list of cuing projects on which I want to work first. Do you have some literature on the pyrite catalyst or so? Best, Pat

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing My experience is with higher temp setting geopolymers, using less reactive stuff, not water glass, so adding a iron pyrite catalyst to a mixture of cream of tartar (potassium source) diatomaceous earth(silica source), wollastonite (calcium silicate and calcium source) and kaolin clay and water, produced a nice pink geopolymer(pink granite compositing type) that was nice and hard after being cooked in an oven to remove the water and fired in a wood fire. The iron pyrite catalyst was just an experiment I read somewhere it can be used as a catalyst but I forget where.

​@@michaelpudney No prob. Still good input of yours. Kind of why I'm doing this 👍🙂 The German name for cream of tartar is by the way "Weinstein" which litterally means "wine stone" or "stone of wine". Have a good one! Pat

Thanks for your support. Have a good one!

No, it is metal powders like aluminium. So actually the one I used is another one which I keep a secrete. But aluminium works. Have you used boric acid in such a way?

Thank you for your attention!

Yeah, many mineral materials look the same. For most people all the stones for instance look exactly the same. In my upcoming book there will be an detailed explanation whats the difference between plaster of Paris and GPs 👍

@@prototype9000 very brief: No. If you heat it at 1500 °C your kaoline is complete useless, it's then called a fireclay and can only be made reactive again by hydrothermal means. you probably meant 1500 degree Fahrenheit (95% of the world uses the centigrade scale) which would just be right for kaoline (actually for the kaolinite in it). Sorry bro, if you do not pay attention to if it is Celsius or Fahrenheit you would produce nothing. There is also not one kind of sodium silicate and not one kind of kaoline, both are a whole field of expertise by themself, mastered by only a surprisingly small number of people in the world and none of them would tell it's easy or simple.

@Advanced_Materials_Publishing if you heated it to 1500c you would end up making glass just about 1500 f is all you need to get the water out of it to make it into a meta kaolin between 650 and 700 °C High-reactivity metakaolinIt is formed by calcining purified kaolinite, generally between 650 and 700 °C in an externally fired rotary kiln.

it can be done has been done but its heavily suppressed knowledge because of big business lobbying to keep itout of search engines and out of public knowledge

try it and let use know how it goes

because its expensive to transport from the Sahara to where you need the sand. Sometimes sand is in the news "sand shortage in construction". Well, there's plenty of sand but if you have to drive 1000 miles to get it, and you usually need a lot of it, you're spending all your money on gas.

Hey man! Thank you for your comment! I would love to create a video on this topic, but it may take some time since I'm currently involved in several projects. To answer your question: Yes, you definitely need to cover it. You can use kitchen foil, cling film, or even cling film specifically designed for pallets. Alternatively, you could place it in a bag. The reason for this is that if it dries out, the curing reaction will stop. Additionally, exposure to CO2 can be problematic. In general, it’s important to keep it well-covered to prevent it from drying out. Best, Pat

Hey MarekkuCake, kind of. I think if then, they used limestones as aggregates which naturally contain kaolinite in this area and along with naturally accouring soda, maybe more ingrediences, they made the stones. If you are interestet do the following: Watch or observe walls made from synthetic rocks like fired bricks and others made of stacked natuirally rocks. What to you you thinks if you compare? :) Best, Patz

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Stones in pyramids or Inca structures seem to be melted or plastic. There no space in between them. But they are stones. It would be logical if there are indeed geo polymers. Softened stone molded and then solidified.

@@marekkucak6581 Yeah, it's pretty likely they used some kind of liquid stuff that hardened up later. I'm thinking it was an early version of concrete because we know for sure ancient folks had these kinds of materials. If you've got the right ingredients, it's not that hard to make. Take the Pantheon and Colosseum in Rome - they're scientifically provable made of similar stuff. And we know the Egyptians and Romans bumped into each other, so they might've swapped some building tricks... I've read about modern concrete workers checking out the pyramids. A bunch of them say it's pretty obvious to them that some parts were poured or packed down, not just stacked up with big stones. I think people love this story of the super villan pharaos with their thousends of slaves... Have a good one! Pat

Hey, good idea! I'm working on more content but its a lot of work. I hope in the future I have more time or resources for publishing content and books. But its really a good idea!

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing I agree. it is really pointless to make the stuff if it has the strength of an egg shell.

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Testing compressive strength would be a rather essential aspect of publishing a book on structural material recipe formulations ?

​@@heartobefelt What truly fascinated me back then wasn't just analyzing data in a table, but actually witnessing and feeling how a stone could be formed from a bit of dirt and liquids in just one day. For those genuinely interested in making geopolymer concrete, it's essential to experiment with their own mixes and raw materials. In the end, this video is a brief, freely shared concept and not a promotional advertisement for a material suitable for building a house.

He G_lions! Thanks for your question. But I have one myself: What do you mean with "post the english one"? My question is just post what and post where, which platform? Best, Pat

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Hey, I was asking about your book and an English translation as Amazon uk wouldn't post to the uk. I used the link you gave in the other video and It worked. I now have a English version of your book! Thanks!

@@G_lions Cool! Thanks for the purchase ! And the insight that in some areas people might have problems with finding it. Best, Pat

add 5% very fine Al powder

what xan I do to prevent effllorecence ?

Really? is this working? amzn.eu/d/04rBhAtp

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Hey Thanks, yes this link worked, I have just purchased your book! I look forward to receiving it! I'll let you know how I get on!

Hello there! Good idea with the etching! Thank you. I have published three (plus two) recipes in the formulations book. The Kindle edition is quite affordable. However, I should mention that phosphorus is likely to become more and more expensive. In the end, if we were to use phosphorus-based geopolymers (P-GPs) on a large scale, poorer countries might face difficulties. If we were to buy a lot, it would increase the prices, potentially making fertilizers less accessible for these nations. Best, Pat

Hello!! Thanks for watching the video! The shelflife i very good but it depends strongly on your raw materials. Some batches are stable for a long time but with other RMs not. The CO2 in the air spoils the "activator". Each GP has its own "activator". The one in the video can be used for many metakaolins but is optimise to the one I use. There is not one activator for all GPs. Hope I could help! Best, Pat

Thank you! There are quick setting ones. Once I made a truss-WG-NaOH one which set in matters of seconds. It is rather not a geopolymer but something different... but maybe one does not care what it is exactly. It is one of the truss GPs from my fomulations book. I cant tell though if I can replicate it. Standard FA-GGBF-GPs are famous for setting a little after an hour or so whilst the real set takes like 6 or so. How fast and how strong do you need it? Best, Pat

Hey Roger, I hear you on the high prices for waterglass (sodium silicate solution) in Australia, especially in smaller quantities. From what I've seen, the cheapest options on Amazon in my area (Germany) are around 4.3€ per liter (roughly AUD 6.5) but only for small amounts up to 10 liters or so. Once you start looking at bigger volumes, the price per liter really goes down. But there are a few places you could check out to potentially find better deals on larger amounts: DIY stores or hardware shops sometimes carry waterglass and may have decent pricing for bigger quantities. Sme is for ceramics/pottery supply stores. Art supply stores that sell specialty pigments and materials could be another option to look into. You could try reaching out to local concrete companies or ones that work with silicate-based stuff - they might be able to hook you up with some larger amounts directly. Industrial/chemical supply places may offer bulk pricing, but minimum order sizes could still be an issue. The key is to look around locally beyond just the mainstream retailers. With some digging, you may be able to find a supplier that can do you a solid on pricing for those larger waterglass amounts you need for your projects. It's all about finding the right source. Best, Pat

Thank you Pat.@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing

@@rogercutler2033 Sorry, I wanted to write you might find better options for smaller and not for bigger amounts :)

Hello! Commercial GPs are mostly made from slag and fly ash. MK-based are too expensive at the moment. They all claim that they want to save the world but in reality is all about the price (which is ok). On the other hand MK-based can reach a higher strength more easily, so to speak. So building purposes it is fly ash and slag and for decorative purposed or cold-curing ceramics, it is MK. But the industry oftertimes try to hide what the really do... :) Best, Patrick

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Australia had massive quantities of Fly Ash that they couldnt give away , but after i enquired about sourcing it the cement suppliers panicked and locked up the source to protect OPC ....

the simple pyramid stone from the davidovits main and first video would be best, just make big limestone blocks with a hole down the center for rebar... or you can buy natural limestone blocks and go from there, people make houses out of natural limestone blocks already

Hello Wilmar, Thank you for your interest in my work. Unfortunately, all rights to my books currently belong to the publisher, and I am not permitted to distribute PDFs or other unauthorized copies. Amazon has a strict policy against copyright infringement, and authors who violate these rules risk having their accounts terminated and being permanently banned from the platform. They enforce these rules strictly because copyright violations were rampant in the past. While I cannot provide PDFs directly, you may be able to convert the ebook version into a PDF format for personal use. However, I'm not certain if this would be considered a permitted use under Amazon's terms of service, so I would advise caution. If you're interested in accessing my work, I would suggest purchasing the ebook version of the book you're interested in, such as the formulations book which is available at a lower price point. I recommend the English versions, as those are the most up-to-date editions. My plan is to publish translations into other languages once I've completed this current book project, which I hope to achieve by early 2028. I hope you have a wonderful day. Best regards, Patrick

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing Hi Patrick. Thank you for answering me, I already bought your books electronically and I already translated the book that is in German... it looks very similar to the English version... I have them in PDF and they are for personal use only. I believe they are very interesting, I congratulate you on your research work. My intention is to create an artistic movement here in Edmonton, Canada, where we can use an alternative to concrete. I have a series of artistic pieces that I personally want to make in geopolymers.... and I will thank you because you are the reason for this work, thank you Bro and have a good day. Wilmar

@@wilmarandrade7839 Hey there! Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it. Artistic movement sounds really cool! If you want to use more geopolymers in your projects, I'd suggest taking some time to experiment. You could mix up a bunch of different batches and use those little plastic sample holders with lids from Amazon. They're like 0.1 liters in size. Make like 20 different mixes, one for each sample holder, and keep them all at around 68°F (20°C). Then, over the next few days, just poke them with something pointy to see if they've cured. Generally, a geopolymer that hardens within the first 24 hours is a good one. The ones that take longer are usually lower quality. But curing times can vary based on the exact mix and conditions. Feel free to hit me up with questions. I don't check social media every day, so it might take me a couple of days to get back to you. But I'm happy to help out where I can. Keep up the good work!

Hey Mike! Thanks, that is actually a valid point I missed. Right before I might meet him in France this summer :) I guess a quotation in the shownotes would be ok. I checked it in my books and although I quoted him in the procedure, I think, I didn't tell clearly it is his procedure... I need to change that which will take a little while. Thanks again. Best, Patrick

I did one with Ca(OH)2 which works but takes quite long until it cures. That is like the Romans did their cement. With sodium carbonate I wanted to do some experiments since you can buy it in the drugstore. In general the waterglass-NaOH "activators" are the most promising ones. Anyways, I cant tell right now how it alters the characteristics. Cheers. Pat

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing What are your thoughts on what Davidovits calls AAM's?

@@amarq1509 Hey mate! Thanks for your comment or question! In general, I view it in the same way. If there is no polymeric framework, it cannot be called a geoPOLYMER. Just alkali hydroxides plus fly ash, for instance, is not a mixture which performs polymerization, in most cases. It is rather a way to synthesize crystalline zeolites. In my opinion, people use language like AAMs or even worse NASH or KASH gels because they do not have the proper knowledge. There is one particular field of research which deals with all these substances, materials, etc., and that is chemistry. Without paying attention to chemistry, it is not possible to understand geopolymers. I think people who use AAM language in scientific literature instead of only when chatting or so should consequently name Portland cement an alkali earth activated material. Soap, for instance, would be alkali-activated vegetable oil. Rather ridiculous, isn't it? But if people want to do it this way, I don't care too much. If hobbyists, workers, and the like use AAM as a synonym for geopolymer, then so be it. But in scientific writings, people should refrain from using made-up terms and words. Sure, "geopolymer" is also kind of made up, but they literally consist of what the earth's crust consists of to 85%, so the term "geo" is appropriate, and, when well made, they have a polymeric framework. Best! Patrick

@@Advanced_Materials_Publishing is the pyramid stone in davidovits first video AAM or geopolymer?

Hallo Mike, thanks for your comment. Sounds good to me! Best, Pat

Ffy ash instead of MK is possible, as it reacts well (both from a high-temperature process). FA is another recipe as MK (see my FB page for formulation). Marbel and construction waste does not react and can therefore be used as aggregates or fillers along wit FA, MK, some slags. In geopolymers you can just try out what you thought cause nothing bad can happen as long as you start with small amounts/samples. Cheers! Pat