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Pixel Woodworks
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2022
Woodworking that blends technology and tradition.
Is Seeking Perfection Worth the Headaches?
I started a simple weekend project in March 2024, and things went downhill. As of this video, it's still awaiting final sanding and finish, but I just haven't gotten up the desire to go back to it yet. Please read the notes below for answers to common questions.
Video Notes -- If you're following the video log, you probably had some questions, here are some answers:
What size TV was this? It was a 65" Samsung Frame TV. It was mounted to the wall with the Samsung-supplied bracket, but on a piece of 1/2" Baltic Birch. This is why the distance from the wall was 1/2" more than it otherwise would have been.
Why did you have a compound miter joint? This was to cover the side of the TV and make up for the 1/2" additional gap created by the baltic birch mounting plywood. Traditional frames don't need to cover behind the canvas, but this TV has additional depth and brackets, and when you walk into the room, you see the mounting hardware from the side.
What happened to the additional molding shown in the video? Midway through the build, my wife liked the cleaner and simpler look. Unfortunately, I counted on that molding as a reference point. Instead, I had to discard it and create the angled rabbet.
What was your original joinery plan? I originally had the additional molding, which was 1" by 2" and square on the inside. This had enough meat to use a variety of joinery mechanisms; after removing that, I had limited options. I thought the fit would be precise enough to glue because the frame is so then, and glue would be sufficient if it were light. I tried to use various other joinery techniques, but most wouldn't work because the 6-degree compound miter would put any cut through the face of the frame. So things like dominos and dowels were out, and the steel I tried to use couldn't get enough tension to pull it together. There's nothing to grab onto or reference against.
It doesn't seem that difficult. That's what I thought, but the rounded face and the compound miter mean the forces at work always cause "slippage." The pieces always want to slide apart when you try to pull the pieces together. If I were making many of these, a form or molding jig to hold the pieces in place with pressure would be what I would build to assemble. I tried every type of clamping / holding I had and eventually, as shown, settled on the right-side-up raised legs to allow a "good enough" glue-up. If you have an tool you think I should have tried, its likely I did even though its not in the video.
Why did you say it was 16 feet long and so thin? It was 16 linear feet, so 5 feet by 3 feet-any error compounds over the length of the entire frame, which was 16 feet. I was worried about the weight of the TV, so I wanted it to be extremely light and thin but look substantial.
How is it held in place? I designed it to be friction fit; since the TV leans forward, and the "mounting bracket" shown simply hooks onto the top. The rest is physics; the weight of the frame suckets it close to the bezel, and, magic, it looks like it's glued on.
What about the light sensor? The frame covers it, but there's no way around that with a custom frame. Because the frame is skinny, no accommodation was needed to avoid hitting the built-in sensor with this frame. The TV still works fine using an external sensor from Deco frames instead of the internal on-frame sensor.
If you have other questions, leave me a comment, thanks for watching!
Video Notes -- If you're following the video log, you probably had some questions, here are some answers:
What size TV was this? It was a 65" Samsung Frame TV. It was mounted to the wall with the Samsung-supplied bracket, but on a piece of 1/2" Baltic Birch. This is why the distance from the wall was 1/2" more than it otherwise would have been.
Why did you have a compound miter joint? This was to cover the side of the TV and make up for the 1/2" additional gap created by the baltic birch mounting plywood. Traditional frames don't need to cover behind the canvas, but this TV has additional depth and brackets, and when you walk into the room, you see the mounting hardware from the side.
What happened to the additional molding shown in the video? Midway through the build, my wife liked the cleaner and simpler look. Unfortunately, I counted on that molding as a reference point. Instead, I had to discard it and create the angled rabbet.
What was your original joinery plan? I originally had the additional molding, which was 1" by 2" and square on the inside. This had enough meat to use a variety of joinery mechanisms; after removing that, I had limited options. I thought the fit would be precise enough to glue because the frame is so then, and glue would be sufficient if it were light. I tried to use various other joinery techniques, but most wouldn't work because the 6-degree compound miter would put any cut through the face of the frame. So things like dominos and dowels were out, and the steel I tried to use couldn't get enough tension to pull it together. There's nothing to grab onto or reference against.
It doesn't seem that difficult. That's what I thought, but the rounded face and the compound miter mean the forces at work always cause "slippage." The pieces always want to slide apart when you try to pull the pieces together. If I were making many of these, a form or molding jig to hold the pieces in place with pressure would be what I would build to assemble. I tried every type of clamping / holding I had and eventually, as shown, settled on the right-side-up raised legs to allow a "good enough" glue-up. If you have an tool you think I should have tried, its likely I did even though its not in the video.
Why did you say it was 16 feet long and so thin? It was 16 linear feet, so 5 feet by 3 feet-any error compounds over the length of the entire frame, which was 16 feet. I was worried about the weight of the TV, so I wanted it to be extremely light and thin but look substantial.
How is it held in place? I designed it to be friction fit; since the TV leans forward, and the "mounting bracket" shown simply hooks onto the top. The rest is physics; the weight of the frame suckets it close to the bezel, and, magic, it looks like it's glued on.
What about the light sensor? The frame covers it, but there's no way around that with a custom frame. Because the frame is skinny, no accommodation was needed to avoid hitting the built-in sensor with this frame. The TV still works fine using an external sensor from Deco frames instead of the internal on-frame sensor.
If you have other questions, leave me a comment, thanks for watching!
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How-to Add Flexible Power for a Growing Shop & Bigger Tools
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Easily and cost effectively add flexible power. I break down cheap & easy shop options including service panel, delivery, connectors, single and three phase, adding three phase to your shop, sourcing parts, and saving money. First, lets get the obligatory *disclaimer* out of the way. In short, I'm not an electrician, codes vary, and life can be dangerous. The information provided in this video ...
After 2 Years living with the Harvey Gyro..
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This video is about dust collection, noise, static pressure, and airflow. After two years using the Harvey G800, I'm ready to review it and tell you how I think it compares to traditional cyclones. I've seen many videos with "soft" reviews of the Gyro but I couldn't get enough information when I decided to go from a short gone to the G800 instead of the Oneida. Well after 2 years of use, the ve...
How-to Use your shop ceiling fully!
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Workspace floor space is at a premium, and this video shows you how to free some up and make your shop more functional using your ceiling space. I've included some vendors below to get you started; however, check your local electrical supply warehouse. Often, eBay has these types of parts in bulk for cheap. It's all straightforward; however, if you have any questions, leave me a comment, and I'...
ASMR Build of Massive Split Top Roubo Base
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This is an ASMR video showing the solid walnut base build of my Split Top Roubo Workbench (th-cam.com/video/gzjF0EdqJVQ/w-d-xo.html) Tools Shown: 1. Bandsaw 2. Sliding Table Saw 3. Edge Sander 4. Shaper/Spindle Moulder 5. Planer 6. Jointer #roubo #workbench #asmr #woodworking
Walnut Demi-Lune Side Table Build
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This video is a step-by-step guide on how to build a beautiful and functional black walnut and demi-lune table. My design is actually an oval but you may make any shape you like. This versatile table is perfect for any home and can be used as an entryway table, a side table, or even a console table. I will show you everything you need to know, and the project took about ~6 hours of "hand time" ...
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As I collected more tools, they came with more containers. Plenty of woodworkers I follow say to ditch the containers, but I say different. These systainers keep the tools, all the little accessories intact, and easy to access. But how do you store these efficiently? I saw Festool sells shelves, but greater than $100 each. I didn't want to spent my time building complex storage, and I didn't wa...
A Massive Roubo Workbench with a Superpower
มุมมอง 23Kปีที่แล้ว
Reimagining the Roubo Workbench: A massive maple and walnut workbench with a superpower. Materials: Hard Maple Tops and Black Walnut base. Most of the bench is made from 8/4 stock except the chop which was 12/4 ( 1/4" of hard maple). Originally I was building a Hybrid Workbench, then I switched to a Roubo, then I designed the bench you see, so I had originally purchased around 180bd/ft of Hard ...
The Parallel “Fritz and Franz” Jig for Sliding Table Saw
มุมมอง 5K2 ปีที่แล้ว
If you are one of 12 people with a sliding table saw and parallel guides, this video may be for you. I find it a pain to remove my parallel guides so I build my F&F around them. This video shows the build. Parallel Guides - lambtoolworks.com/ #tablesaw #powertools #garageworkshop #woodworking
These are great ideas! Thank you!
Great Video 👍🏻 and great idea of combining the lamb tool works parallel guides and Fritz and Franz jig. I recently purchased the lamb tool works parallel guides for my sliding table saw, I love the Fritz and Franz jig’s you made for them. Is there any way I could get a hold of the vector file from you if you still have it?
seeing my pro woodworker grandfather die from lung damage due to smoking and woodworking in days when the business shop didn't have much dust collection, something like this is a life and death buy....
I have watched plenty of woodworking projects that used the word "ultimate" to describe the project. I do believe this one defines the word ultimate. It is beyond my capabilities.
Thanks so much for the kind words!
Is there a way to make a 90 degree turn with this stuff? Need to hoist stuff up to my attic, slide 3ft down, the make a right turn and slide another 6ft.
If you mean with strut, yes you can make 90, 45, or more subtle angle changes.
Horrifying power. That thing is terrifying. I have 10 fingers. How do i get one?
😂
It probably took 6 months to setup all those nice shots! Great video and frame!
Hah, not too bad on the filming; a lot of editing, though. Thanks!!
Your projects are way better than I can pull off. I'm 58 and I came to realize I'm a hack. Which was a really good thing because I don't stress as much over imperfections. Great video and glad I found your channel!
I think there's a bit of "hack" in all of us 😃
This is way too real. Spent 6 weeks on a custom display shelf with 10 different miter cuts and no matter how I fit it later a few were just off. Kept trying to explain what was taking so long to my wife lol. She didn’t get it.
I sooo feel your pain 😃 How was the final result?
"I was waking up in the middle of the night just to go check an angle... It was ruining my life." I feel seen.
We do it to ourselves, don't we? 🫣
You comments is super
Thanks!
Come on! We needed more beauty shots than that!
I know, I know 😂 I tried to work with what I had. It is still waiting for final sanding and finish and I just haven't had the desire to finish it up and take the real "final" shots..
@@pixelwoodworks I was only complaining cos it looks so good! Well done my man
Frame looks great. A pointer that's helped me manage slippage in a glueup: a little salt on the glue inside the joint.
How interesting, I've never heard of that. Thanks for the tip!
@@pixelwoodworks You can also use a little loose sandpaper grit, but salt works almost as well, and won't cause issues if you're cutting or machining the joint later.
A few weeks ago I assembled a large 2' x 4' walnut box with 4"+ tall mitered corners, joined with dominos. I set up everything right and took the time to go back and fix whatever I needed until the dry fit was looking crisp. Then had one of those glue ups where everything goes wrong. Big hideous gaps and fighting me for square with every move. Too far set to start over, I had to just let it dry. After a day or two off plus another working on other stuff, the next time I saw it, I could've sworn elves came in at night and fixed it. In reality, I think following a good plan, taking the time to get set up right, going back and fixing things, helped the movement as the glue dried work in my favor. That and things just don't look as bad after a few days versus panic time. The piece still has issues and I see them just fine, but this fiasco reminded me of the importance of what I get right as a woodworker as opposed to the mm gaps that haunt me. And that I don't half-aas things. That big box is as sturdy as it is beautiful and you know it no matter where you pick it up from.
I feel ya, sounds like a stressful experience that turned out OK in the end. In my case, my plan fell apart because my wife changed the design, I was planning to use the inner bezel of the frame, which would have had a square corner, to pull everything together. You can plan for wives! 🤷😂
"Nobody cares about how perfect the project is but you" Everyone i know hassles me when i try to tell them what is wrong with my projects. But it's not about insecurity or apologizing for making a mistake. For me, it's about learning something. "Look how i learned how to do this better if i do it again!" If there isn't something new to be learned on a project, i strongly resist doing it. Or maybe it's just insecurity and that's what i tell myself.
Regarding insecurity and/or anxiety about the mistakes you make or the final project, today's social media world has everyone showing projects that just look amazing; it's akin to false beauty in a magazine, where someone gets hours of makeup and hundreds of shots to find the one perfect moment. I've seen a lot of famous woodwork in person. They are impressive, yes, but you can see the flaws (or craftsmanship, depending on your POV) when you look. In a world of automation, you might even say that is what makes them unique. It's also true that if you aren't doing something new, it's just repetitive, busy work, etc., and that requires making mistakes.
I was worried you gave up on TH-cam...I'm so glad to see this video and can't wait for the next one!
I did say "maybe" :) You know how life gets, busy! Thanks for the support!
@@pixelwoodworks Oh no!
The frame looks awesome! Great video! Can’t wait to see what you do with that truckload of lumber 😂
Thanks 👍
I’ve watched hundreds of videos on workbench builds and read a lot of articles and books on design features and functionality. This is an amazing build! Incredibly beautiful and what a beautiful bench. Awesome skills. The budget must have been ridiculous! Thanks for showing us! I’d love to know how much it weighs.
Kind words, I really appreciate it! No idea of the total weight, we assembled as shown and it’s never moved, even a little! 😂
Man this deserves more view
I'm not sure I have the floor space for this versus the Oneida mini gorilla, but I am curious about the filter ratings. If HEPA requires removing "from the air that passes through-at least 99.97% of particles whose diameter is equal to 0.3 μm, with the filtration efficiency increasing for particle diameters both less than and greater than 0.3 μm." wouldn't that mean the Harvey meets HEPA? Or is it possible that it has lower filtration smaller and larger than 0.3 μm. Then again Oneida specs "HEPA-Grade Filter Media with an E12 minimum efficiency rating" and per Wikipedia E12 is not quite HEPA. This is confusing. Having said all that, I'm not sure how much that small difference, if any, in filtration would matter. Especially if you are running a separate air cleaner in a small shop. Anyway I may not have a choice based upon floor space. Thanks for the great video!
I think your looking at shades of gray. More fine particles will escape and fill the air regardless of the filter, you just can't get everything at the tool. Harvey now has a new version of the G800, the Pro which is even larger. Sad IMHO.
I would love to see a shop tour video.
Noted!
Good video. My only criticism is that you are dressed too nice as a TH-cam creator lol. ;)
And yes, I did subscribe.
Lol, well I'm not a real "TH-camr," just another hobby :D Thanks!
Looks amazing I'm building my first workbench a Roubo but this definitely inspired me to build a second one perhaps I'll sell the first one. I chose ash for the body and top oak for the legs and walnut for the Deadman and both vises
A second one! You're a madman :D
Im getting Napoleon Dynamite flashbacks
Vote for Pedro!
Do you have any thoughts on the ramp-up time for the Harveys? I've heard that it can be irritating
I heard that too, and it somewhat true, but every motor with an impeller will have spin up time. G800 is just a bit longer. I usually wear headphones and just let it run while I'm working so I'm not turning it on and off constantly.
good points on the 3 phase and VFD. Most people don't understand the benefits of a 3 phase motor and VFD. besides being a longer lasting motor, the ability to "soft start" the motor, (the VFD is programed invariably to start the motor a bit softer and can usually be adjusted to be more or less delay) is very important for small shops that are close to their limit in power. The soft start makes the surge (inrush) power MUCH smaller and much less likely to trip breakers.
It's true, most collectors are just a hard start with a capacitor and require a bigger breaker than they otherwise should just to handle start load.
I've built custom vices for a friend of nine who is a joiner/master carpenter. . Being a welder fabricator and engineer. His vice is totally over engineered and over kill . But he's a happy chappy . You will forgive me if I don't show him this wonderful video. I couldn't bare the stress again. . Thank you for a great video. And all the best Pad from the uk 🇬🇧
What's wrong with over engineering? :chuckle:
Solid review. How did you get the ivac to work with the Harvey? When I turn off the ivac it shuts the power to the Harvey and then when it comes back on it doesn’t turn on the motor just the control panel. Is there some way to work around the power/control panel issue?
I don't use the IVAC with the Harvey. They have their own system, its too limited though. I just manage them separately, its not a big deal.
Very informative video ... Thank you
Thank you so much!
Screw + nut = BOLT The ignorance of the average "American" Joe is out of scale. The large majority of them, today, don't know what a bolt is. They call bolt a screw with a hexagonal head, but then they don't know how to call the joint screw+nut anymore. And those same 10!. TS are the one using this IDIOTIC terminology on the school books and catalogues. Sheeps with no brain. BTW, thanks for the video.
Nice work!
Thank you so much!
Strut runs $20-$25 for 10ft? Omg... Here in Canada it's more like $6-$8 per foot, bought in minimum lengths of 10ft
Damn, must be nice!
Great ideas!
Thank you so much!
Music is distracting while you speak.
I've heard that but can't do much about it post-posting. Thanks for the feedback!
Agreed, reusable 10/10
Thank you so much!
Impressive work, and creative build, but way to complicated to be practical
I totally agree. Honestly, sometimes you get into these projects and A leads to B, and before you know it your at Z, without really looking back. I have enjoyed the end results, its been rock solid and great. Thanks for the feedback!
Super helpful! Thank you. I think this is the best video I've found comparing the G800 with relevant Oneida options. For some reason, there's almost nothing on YT about the G800. Yeah, the Harvey marketing scheme is pretty annoying.
So glad someone found it helpful! Are you in the market for a new dust collector? Curious to know what you end up buying and why.
@@pixelwoodworks Yes! I have been stuck b/w Harvey's Gyro Options (G700 & G800) vs Oneida's Supercell Turbo or Dust Gorilla Pro. I've been finishing up my building, so I'll have to decide this summer. The issues that have prevented me from pulling the trigger on the Supercell Turbo so far are the noise and the limitations on future expansion.
@@leevee85 Sounds like you have all the information. I'd be curious what you end up doing in the end and how it works out.
Small shops should check out the Oneida Supercell before deciding on a system.
That looks like a great setup you have. What is the spacing between the base struts that you use?
Thanks! Spacing is between 4-5' because the cross members are 10' I wanted to avoid as much cutting as possible so one perpendicular length spans 3x base struts. I hope that helps!
oh you better believe i’m subscribing
Thanks so much for the support!
fact check: cost effective. No.
It really depends on what your comparing it to and what the long tail of cost savings is. I've had it for coming up on two years and I get endless utility from it. Prior to this, I spent a lot of money trying other configurations including wooden structures, that I tore down and trashed over time. YMMV and one size does not fit all 🤷
I love it, I've never seen a split top bench that movess'. Good Video FYI
Thanks so much for the support!
wow I couldn't have found this at any better time! thanks so much for sharing. Great info, super useful. Subscribed!
Glad you found it so useful, thanks so much for the support!
why annoying background music? violins, and classical instruments are not good choise when you talk at the same time.
I liked it 😅
Music's a funny thing, its hard to please everyone 🤷
Thanks for the support! 🙏
Great video, any plans for a workshop tour?
Mabye, I was probably going to do smaller videos on specific design choices, such as lighting systems, or this power system choice. I've been working on some actual woodworking recently 😅
Great video! Good to see ya on TH-cam :)
Hey! Thanks for the support; I've been keeping in touch vicariously through Tom. Congrats on your AI startup, some cool videos! 👍👍
Strut is NOT cost effective lol
I guess thats all perspective and relative, $23 for a 10' piece of steel I can mount all kinds of things too doesn't seem to bad for me. A trip to Taco Bell cost me $40 😭
all right I'll sub gees, that's smarts my shop looks like a monster was looking for food.
😂
Be careful hanging too much weight from a garage ceiling. My parents have been doing that since the 80s and it looked ok when the roofing was old wood shingles but when they re-roofed with asphault the damage was plain to see. The roof trusses had sagged over the garage so while the house portion looks fine, the attached garage has dips and curves where it should be flat and straight. I told them to take out the storage they were hanging from the garage roof trusses and fix the dips before they put on the new roofing but they did not and now it looks pretty funky. You might not notice it right away but after you do, you can't un-see it. The other thing is if you design a garage with open roof trusses, design it to hold a load of crap in the trusses because somebody is going to look up and have bad ideas...
Its true, I consulted a structural engineer because we built a room on top of this garage as well. So far so good, this has been installed for about 1.25 years and no signs of movement. I covered this in the original edit, but cut it for time. I even had a segment in my attic talking about the joists etc. I just thought it digressed too much, but perhaps that was a mistake, people seem interested. 🤷
What you did isn't bad, maybe a couple hundred pounds and you aligned the strut to distribute the load. It's when you have 4x as much and don't distribute the load properly that messes things up. I'm planning a garage with living space over it too. An important part of that is using the space between the floor joists as a mechanical chase for my utilities. It's going to be covered up with a decoupled ceiling to make the garage look nice and reduce the noise that can make it upstairs but still allow access when I need to get to something hidden in there. Now I'm thinking of adding permanently installed dust extraction in there too. Another thing I want to do is hang movable walls on truss trolleys so I can make my two room garage/shop in to three or four rooms. That will let me create a paint booth or wood shop that is designed to control overspray and dust for quick cleaning and conversion back to garage space after a project is finished. I'm also going to have a lot of pallet rack area so my storage can go vertical and I have a hydraulic lift cart that can raise 300 lbs 72" so I can put heavy bins on high shelves even when I'm old and grey. It's all going to be an exercise in efficiently utilizing every square inch of floor space to the maximum so I can make do in a 1,000 ft² shop instead of a 3,000 ft² shop and live in about 800 ft² upstairs. Hopefully that will mean a solar and battery system big enough to occasionally run a mill, lathe, horizontal bandsaw and welder will be big enough to run my HVAC continuously (I live in a desert with good sunlight). It's also a lot cheaper to build 1,800 ft² of shop/home than 3,800 ft². I'm going to build another ~1,000 ft² steel building for additional shop space and storage. It will have HVAC but it will be set to cool when it gets over 95° and heat when it gets under 40° unless I'm using it. Insulation will be about R12 in the walls, maybe a bit higher in the roof but well sealed to prevent conditioned air leaking out or critters getting in. That might sound like a lot of space but when you want to fabricate, paint, woodwork and store a few project cars inside so they don't cook all summer, it's about as minimal as I can go without making some things really difficult or impossible. Luckily I have over an acre to build on and flat spots for both buildings and a driveway that connects them.
@beardoe6874 Wow you got some plans, it sounds like that will keep you busy for some time! "Nature Abhors a Vacuum", and we seem to find no problem consuming as much space as we can find, or in your case build. I used to do automotive work until I ran out of things to do so I switched hobbies, thats going to be a big chunk of your space. I imagine if I had land to build on, I might fall into a black hole of over-building and never completing, a labor of love for sure though. Good luck and hopefully you have or are getting a Tractor with Backhoe too! 👍👍
Very thankful for this information “
Great to hear some feedback on this. Were you/are you/did you consider one?
@@pixelwoodworks for sure in the future I will be looking up, Thanks again “