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As a kid in the 1970's and 80's I remember a rusty junked radio chassis with no box lying in the bushes in my backyard. The tubes all broken but it had the exact same 3 gang tuning capacitor with the unforgettable distinctive tuning spool. I had no idea of the brand name or model number until recently when I saw the Radiola model 17 , 18 and model 60 on You Tube. So cool to see a working example of a old junked radio unit I was already familiar with all those decades ago.

I'm really curious, why would placing the volume control at the antenna input be superior to putting it right after the detector/preamp tube. It seems like all of the circuit noise would be present even with the volume set to zero. They sure made it different 100 years ago! The power supply, using only 2x1uF capacitors with big chokes for filtration is very easy on the rectifier cathode - the peak current is not much above its average value. Lower inductance and higher capacitance would force the rectifier tube to only conduct in brief pulses of high amplitude, which would have worn it out a lot faster.

Nice video! Thanks for the photos clear explanations of issues and solutions.

Very interesting I ordered relacement triac from Amazon and wondering anyy solder precautions on heating to remove and install new Triac

Since the time you promised to fix the radio to this day, you are now an advanced electronic technician.

So cool! Glad you persisted despite the roadblocks.

Great work and thank you for the operational explanation.

As an electrician, I would assume it was a Ghost Voltage assuming the raceway is flex and it induced itself causing a 120v on the meter without Loz.. This was very intresting...

I found a hot black in a panel not on a breaker. Open neutral somewhwere I'm assuming.

Hello. I was testing a diode with a 9 volt battery and getting a reading of negative 5.2 volts (-5.2V). When I reversed the leads I got a zero volt reading. Is this a bad diode or I’m I testing it incorrectly.

Excellent video! Such clear labeling of all the voltages, including the voltage between the flame sensor and the ignitor when it is close to, but not, zero. Also extremely helpful to go over what you will measure in so many different failure scenarios. Thanks!

I found one on the side of the road and have no idea how to use it lol. It works too.

Now if only I could find a pouch that fits this meter for my tool belt.

Not too long ago I had the first HE and a little whisp of smoke rose from near the dial on top...now it gets the HE after about 40 minutes. Lint trap is clean and used pick up tool to clean under it. Hose to the wall is clear. Based on what happened I figure something happened to the board, but I'm a novice at all of this. Suggestions?

I’m having the same problem as the two that don’t have any replies, it’s happening at the end of the heating cycle. For example, I ran some blankets. It took about 30 minutes and then it got hot. I just ran a load of clothes and it was a little bit over an hour and then it got hot. But both were at the very end of the heating cycle. What would cause this?

Awesome explanation. Thank you!

can a faulty door switch cause the 10 AMP fuse to blow?

Thank you very much for your videos. They are a refresh of the theory of curcuits, voltage drop, etc. EE from México. Subscribed.

Man, this was a great one. Thanks for the awesome meter tips in here.

Clear, concise, thanks

Thank you so much for this very informative video. I wonder if you can help me discern what may need to be replaced on our GE Monogram Glass Top stove, which has infinite switches. Our control board always has the "HOT SURFACE" light on. Even when everything is off and cool. One of our burners used to "short" and cause the circuit breaker to trip. It could only be turned in one direction for use. If we turned in the other direction passed "OFF," it would trip the circuit breaker. At this point, it never trips the circuit breaker - but it seems that the PWM is no longer effective. Whenever we turn it on, we get 100% energy and it is very hot regardless of where we set it. Do you think we can just switch the Infinite Switch? Or does this seem like a control box issue? Thanks so much for your advice and education.

What do you mean by Compromised Voltage Source? Compromised meaning what. The Loose Connection has a resistances but what type of resistance is this called? Corrosion Resistance = when there is a " series resistance" between a wire connectors. The Corrosion resistance will have a voltage drop between the wire male to female connectors

I think what you mean is you're not supposed to get any reading at all on reversing the probes or do I misunderstand

Why is red on common and not black

Solid unit for price point

The LoZ mode was new to me. I learned something!

Good job sir.

I have a Miller ruffneck welder it has 11 didoud how would I test them

Thanks for this video! I went out and dropped 30 bucks on a super cheap multimeter, then found it didn't have a diode testing setting, and thought I had thrown my money away. Hooked it all up to a breadboard and a 9V battery as shown in this video, and was able to successfully test everything, despite not having a diode testing setting on the multimeter. Was about to head to Lowe's to get a higher-end multimeter, but this video showed me I could test everything successfully even with my existing setup. Thanks!

Hi just found you and thanks for the fabulous video, I have tested some of my microwave diodes using your tester and it works very well but how do you test so called microwave double diodes (that's what it is called on the microwave schematic). The diode is made up of 1x HV-6X2P1 (double diode 2 rings) and 1x CL01-12 connected together at the anode end and testing using your tester was fine for the CL01 but for the HV diode it showed the same battery voltage in both directions, is there another method for these types of diodes to prove they are okay. Thanks

How do you replace the thermistor?

Nice explanation of ghost voltages

Silicon. Silicone is a whole 'nuther thing 😊

good teacher and tester

Do you have a video on how to test an LED with a diode?

Awesome video and in proper english too !! new sub indeed!

May i can ask something i get some diodes from old crt tvs circuit boards i checked with multimeter and shows 0.585 are good or faulty?

You are reading voltage because you dont need a "solid" connection to read voltage across the wire. You just need enough continuity to see voltage between the 2 wires. Voltage is only half the story. The true test is that current flow test and when you put that bulb in, the current tried to flow but failed because you have a lose connection somewhere and that "lose" connection is not enough for the amount of current needed to pass thru. Kinda like a car battery, just because you see 12V does not mean the battery has the capacity to flow enough current to turn the starter / engine, as soon as you try to crank the motor, that 12V is GONE like your test did when you plugged the light in, then when you stopped cranking or pulled the bulb off, the voltage returned to 12V or 120V ... Same situation here, you got 120V but then tried to pass current and it dropped off because it can't due to a lose connection. As a lineman for an ISP we learned this very trick, just because you have continuity between 2 wires does not mean the current will flow. You don't need much continuity for that meter to see across it. That meter has a 9 volt battery and if the wires can support enough current flow to complete the circuit for 9V, you will then see the 120V across it. The true test is the current flow test. If it can pump current thru, then its a good circuit.

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Thanks for this great video. Looking at 3:06 - my Fluke 113 drops from 9.4VDC to 6.5 when I add a known good 2.2K resistor in series. Your Fluke 115 shows 9.3VDC in the same situation. Is my meter causing this? Thanks again!

Thank you. Just diagnosed a heat-stressed switch on my fancy 10yo Kitchenaid microwave using this video. $3.16 part and a $220 Fluke 117 which I should have bought years ago. Worth it! I used Mouser Electronics for the part. Amazon is full of Honeywell knockoffs

This needs a lot more likes... Will the assist coil open the solenoid plunger without the hold coil energized? 😮. (I know the hold coil needs the assist coil to lift the plunger) but would the assist coil be strong enough to lift the plunger alone...if hold coil was open?

Great Review thank you!

This same scenario occurred with our microwave (capsule released from the screw base while removing it with the light circuit energized). The base shorted, but the end result is the HL won't light at all with an incandescent lamp. When an LED version of the bulb is installed it illuminates partially all the time but with an incandescent it does nothing. I assume there is some quirky failure mode of the triac. The PCA is a W10800189. Would you be able to identify which is part is the triac in question? Could it be one of the two TO-220 package parts I see? Thanks in advance.

Can you do more videos on schematics and do you have a course?

What voltage is the meter supplying to diode?

Man, I have one I need to return to fix. Had to replace both the main valve and the ice and water valve combo (all 3 had open solenoid coils). After the replacement, I was called back because when she used the water, the ice maker dispenser would try to fill with water. Thanks for the explanation.

Just wondering how a faulty door switch can cause the fuse to blow on a microwave oven. My Frigidaire oven fuse blown twice and I am going to check the door switch.

When talking about the neutral, everytime you said upstream, I was thinking downstream because I imagine current flowing from the circuit breaker to the outlet on the black (hot) wire and coming back to the panel from the outlet on white (neutral) wire. But we're talking about AC, so I guess upstream of the outlet is the panel.

I think a $10 analog multimeter can detect this ghost voltage too.