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We do offer some remote setup/diagnostic services, but you really need to find a good local company that can handle it. Not a fan of the Honeywell T10 for this application. Ecobee is our go to. Let me know if this helps. The heat pump is super efficient, so not sure whats going on there. Its a setting probably. Heat load calculations are very prone to having the wrong inputs put in and giving you the wrong outputs, so I would think a 5 ton would be fine for that size of house, if not undersized, depending on the construction and insulation. Dropping down to a 4 ton (switch on the unit, reduces the overall capacity, same unit) wont fix it not having enough heat output. That will reduce the heat output. Oversizing on the AC will cause humidity issues mainly. The heat pump is an inverter drive variable capacity so it actually will go for 25% to 110 of its rated capacity. If it only needs 4 tons it runs at 4 tons, if 2 tons is needed it will run at 2. So its varies based on the load it sees. I would say if this is a propane system, the contractor either didn't install the propane conversion kit and/or didn't set the pressures of the gas regulator properly. Most technicians don't have access to a manometer and don't know how to set the pressures correctly. Most of the time we see them set at very low pressure and very low heat output. Check to see what your changeover temp is set at. You should only run the heat pump OR the gas furnace, NOT both at the same time. Also the heat pump can get ice on the grill and keep the outdoor fan from turning. So lots of things could be happening. So really need a qualified contractor to check it all out and tweak some of the settings and pressures probably.

About the energy usage - check your plan, some plans are tiered based on usage. 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 kwh may be at different rates. Compare previous kwh usage to new system kwh usage, NOT the $ amount. We have seen new systems use 1/2 to 1/4 the energy of the old systems but the bill went up because the lower kwh tier is being billed at a higher rate. So double check this. Other times we have seen clients on average billing and it stays the same until it recalculates a few months down the line. Sometimes you just need to change plans or switch providers.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 Wow, thanks so much for that tip. I'll check it out with my electric company!

It's always something. This was the city that replaced a gas line, across an alley, then mixed up the meter numbers. They shut off the wrong meter. Was supposed to be a vacant suite, but they shut off the occupied space that had gas before they replaced gas line underground. Came out mutiple times. Then they tried to tell tenant to call a plumber to pressure check system and then get a reinspect before they would turn the gas back on. Was fine before they shut it down. NOT the tenants issue. It was the gas companies problem. Finally got it sorted out.

Appreciate the love!! We have a bunch of cool videos.we need to upload.

I typically do. This was a few years ago. Thanks for the tips.

nevermind :) I found the setting "Compressor to Aux Temperature Delta"

@@No--0--Spin you can also set lockout temps so the aux never comes on unless its below a certain temp, etc, lots of settings, just have to go thru a bunch of menus to find them,

@@foxairandheatinc8345 If I choose HEAT on the touch panel, it only puts 89 degree heat out of the vents, when I choose AUX it puts out 101 degree(measured with the laser temp reader). I thought the setting above "Compressor to Aux Temperature Delta" would make this work but it didnt. I set the temp delta to 6 degrees on the setting. Temp is 66 inside, I put the temp i wanted to 75 but it only turns on HEAT and not Aux and I measured the heat coming out of the vents and it is 89 degrees. I thought it would turn on AUX but it didnt. what am I missing? Thanks in advance

I changed "Aux Heat Max Outdoor Temperature" from 35 to 70 and now it turns on AUX. in the equipment running section, it shows the Flame, and flame with aux in it...which i guess means both heat and aux is running...shouldnt it also have the fan symbol?

@@No--0--Spin what is your outdoor temperature? There is also a setting that will stage the backup heat after certain amount of time, not just a temperature spread

Typically Red - RC 24 volts, Green - G fan, White - 1st stage aux heat, Maybe another color for 2nd stage aux heat, Yellow - Y1 1st stage cooling, Orange - O reversing valve, Blue or Black - Common, Some of the old honeywells had an L - that turned on the light on the stat to show it was in the emergency heat mode. Might have 2nd stage cool/heat, might have a dehumidification wire - we typically use the Brown for this. Not all wires may be used. All depends on the equipment. Hope this helps.

Glad you liked it. Always trying to be as productive as we can. Stay safe!!

This one has a standing pilot, no hot surface ignitor or spark ignitor on it. You don't see many of those anymore.

If your auxiliary heat is running a long time that's a sign that your heat pump is either NOT running or it's below 32 degrees and it keeps freezing up. You can lockout the aux heat at 40 or 50 degrees to keep it from coming on too often. It will take longer to catch up, but it's way more energy efficient. Hope this helps.

Yes and no. You can set it up as a dual fuel setup. We do a lot of these. This will run the heat pump as your 1st stage of heating and then it will turn off the heat pump and run the gas furnace as your backup heat. There is a setting in the ecobee to change what type of backup heat you have. You can also set a lockout temp for the heat pump, so it automatically switches to the gas furnace below a certain temp, like 35 degrees or so. The only thing you can't do is switch between the 2 depending on what the price is. You cant run the heat pump AND the gas furnace at the same time because the cooling/heating coil is on the hot side of the furnace and it will overheat the heat pump if they run at the same time. I have been doing this for over 18 years and I really can't think of a thermostat that actually does this. There probably is a way to do it, just probably not enough return for the amount of money and hassle it will take. Hope this helps.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 thanks! i thought i saw a menu option to choose "aux" and manually force the backup heat source to run for as long as i want or need. Thats all i really want to be able to do. The thresholds wouldnt matter that much since the temps dont dip that low here in Southern CA

@@foxairandheatinc8345 In your case, what is "Aux" for at 0:53? Is that for heat strips only or something?

@Jeremy Lee I'm all electric and AUX for me is the backup electric heat strips. We try not to run those very much because they take 3-5 times the power that the normal heat pump uses. But when it's gets below 35 degrees they both fight each other, so we usually lock the heatpump out at 35 degrees. Propane heat is even more expensive to run. So it just depends on your location and situation.

NO Capacitor. NO Contactor.

Its all built onto the control boards. Nothing serviceable like an non-inverter unit. Be very careful with these boards, they put out 400+ volts even after power is disconnected. Nothing DIY about these. Even most contractors don't know how to work on them.

Thanks for the idea. That's another way to get it done too. Just figured using what's already there and just changing the settings is a lot easier for most guys. Just needed to know which settings to change. Still have to use an output to control the IAC anyway so you are going to use that output regardless.

Ya im not sure what the terminator comes with, I have a holley hp for foxbody and it came with a plug for a gm iac then I didn't have to use an output

@@88_turbo_fox73 we got the fox body harness kit with the Terminator and it plugged into the factory IAC or wired to it (don't remember). No adapter or GM IAC needed . No matter which sensor you use, you will tie up an output to run the IAC. The output was already setup in the software to run the IAC but the settings were wrong using the base map that Holley supplies, so that's why it didn't work properly. Once the settings were changed it worked fine. No rewiring, no GM IAC needed.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 Thats good then, the harness that came with mine came with a 4 pin iac connector for gm iac, seems to work fine, I don't think the gm flows as much as the Ford iac

Where was the mold? Inside the ductwork or on the outside of the exposed housing? If you have super high humidity you need to get that under control. This unit is NOT a dehumidifier. If you have that much moisture, it can not handle it.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 It was on the actual top of the reme halo led. No mold elsewhere.

Thanks for the tip. Yes. That is how it should be done but you have to change the IAC settings before the IAC will actually work. Hopefully Holley will make those changes in the base setup, so you don't have to mess with it. This was an earlier version. Have fun.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 correct. the Ford IAC has no change from 0 - 40% then it's linear from 40 to 100%. Certainly have to play with the settings to get it working correctly for your application.

@@kevin_nagle once you changed the setup from stepper to PWM it worked fine. The base tune on my Terminator X loaded the stepper by default and I couldn't get it to work until I changed to the PWM and readjusted the settings. Worked from 0-100% and pretty much linear from what I could tell.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 If you put the IAC Position in a scatter plot you'll see that from 0-40% it's almost a flat line then from 40% to 100% it's a linear change. Correct, anytime you do an initial setup you have to manually go in and change the type to PWM as the software will default to Stepper. You also have to adjust the frequency as well, it will default to 0hz, I have found the 300 - 315hz range works well.

Yes. It is amazing. I was working on a 5 ton unit the other day and total amps starts around 3 amps with the compressor and fan running and then ramped up to about 7 amps and then started coming back down. Normal unit would be running 14-18+ amps. The inverter units sure are efficient!

@@foxairandheatinc8345 yeah

Thanks for your input. FYI - just about everything now days is built with parts that come from overseas. Even the made in America products like Rheem, Trane, Amana, etc. Unfortunately, some of the worst products out there are actually some of the American made stuff. I won't mention any names. We have had really good performance and reliability on the Bosch's air source heat pumps over the last few years. If it's installed and maintained correctly that helps prevent issues. Just make sure whatever you buy comes from a dealer that will stand behind the installation and will warranty their work. We also offer Trane, Carrier, Amana, Lennox, Waterfurnace geo thermal and a bunch of other options if the Bosch is not the right one for you. Let us know if you have any specific questions. Thank you.

Eric Wes - thanks for the comments. Just about any smart stat will set you back about $250.00. You can get a cheap connected thermostat for $60-100.00 but they don't have remote sensors or the other features you really want. We stay away from the Nest. Too many problems with them. The Honeywell Prestige IAQ is really nice but they start around $330.00. So the Ecobee is really the best option out there, especially for heat pumps. The Ecobee Smart Thermostat includes 1 wireless remote sensor in the box. That would be a $60.00 add-on. The Ecobee actively monitors motion, like the Nest, so you get Nest features plus a lot of other features and reliability to boot. If a customer has a Nest thermostat we actually will not warranty the equipment or additional labor because of how many issues we have had with them. Hope this helps. We can also do remote setup and diagnostics if you need some help. Let us know if we can help you with anything. Thanks!!!

Not sure who locked it out, but I'm not cutting any gas lockouts and assuming that liability. Idiots didn't look to see who's suite the pipes went to and locked out the wrong one. I do both suites. 😆 🤣

Sorry. A lot of these videos are done while we are in the field and are shot with a phone and there are a lot of things we can't control. Going to try to bring some better equipment so we can bring you more polished content. Thanks for the input 👍

Thanks for the comment. We wear the mask to help prevent spreading infection and it was cold out too, so it helps keep us warm. Check out some of our other videos for other gas furnace tips.

What?!? Your comment doesn't make any sense.

LMAO

Larry, glad we could help you!! Thanks for watching and contacting us for additional help. Let us know if you need anything else. Thank you very much!

I might have said that wrong. Midea probably makes the majority of the units. Gree also does a bunch. Most are just rebranded units.

we only use Spiralink Coulpers

Yeah those things don't hold up very well

It will say "AUX" and you will see the fan icon and maybe the flame icon if the heat pump is running at the same time

@@foxairandheatinc8345 thanks

@@foxairandheatinc8345 I noticed my ecobee thermostat is off 3 degrees, does this mean it’s broken? Do you have video on how to fix it, thanks

@@kauaireed9006 this can happen if the thermostat is in eco mode. I noticed that the temp reading on the display offsets itself for energy savings. I wish the displayed temp would show the actual temp and the offset would be in the background. You can turn off the eco mode in the settings. You should see the temp change immediately of its setting back at that time. You can also change the display offset in the settings also. If you have a remote sensor, that could also be sensing a different temperature. We do offer remote video help for a minimal charge if you want some extra help making those changes. Hope this helps.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 thanks for the help !

They are nice. Sold that one and then bought another one. Uplifted it a little different but still a really nice and easy to drive work truck.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 I’m in a f350 crew cab lol

Thanks for the comment. You can do humidity control with the right thermostat. Also it depends on what indoor unit you use. Some brands of air handlers and furnaces have a dehumidification tap on the control board. This can be activated by certain thermostats. We will also wire up 2 stages at the air handler if it has an ECM motor and use 2 different speed taps to accomplish the same thing. So it can be done correctly if you know what your doing. We use these a lot when a customer has a standard 410a outdoor unit and a compressor dies in it. We can get them a lot higher efficiency without changing anything on the inside and no proprietary communicating thermostats needed. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thank you.

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Thanks for the comment. Unfortunately a lot of the products being made are coming from overseas. A lot of the parts used in equipment made over here are coming from overseas too. Trane, Carrier, Lennox, Amana, they are all trying to save money on costs.

Glad you liked it!! Thanks for the comment!!

Sorry to hear that. There are a bunch of settings that you have to set correctly to get the most energy savings out of it. Make sure you have the aux heat locked out above 40 degrees or it might be running the heat strips when it is going from away and home. Also make sure to compare similar usage months and outdoor temps. We just came off the coldest winter week on record and the rates jumped up for most people. Hope this helps??? We also offer remote video troubleshooting and programming help if you need some help. www.foxairandheat.com or 214-392-7584

Lou did you figure out what was going on with the high electric bill ?

@@kauaireed9006 no. It's a heat pump. Unit outside don't run while heat is on. But air comes out warm. Something ain't right it runs on aux

@@sicilian2k sounds like it could be a wiring issue. Outside unit should run unless you have it locked out at a certain temp. We usually set 30 degrees to lockout heat pump and 40 degrees to lockout heat strips. If only the aux is running that's why the bills are so high. Check your wiring, settings and preferences

Good question. I forgot where exactly. We buy them from local wholesalers. It's produced overseas, like a lot of the products nowadays. IF we install them, you get an 11-year warranty, because we are ABC Accredited Bosch Contractors. We have been doing them for years and have had very few issues. No more than our Trane, Carrier, Amana, Lennox, and Gree product lines. A lot of that has to do with the initial install and making sure it's all set up correctly. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

@@foxairandheatinc8345 thanks, looks a lot like the Ameristar units. Just curious! Ya man, previously an American Standard Dealer. Started that brand back in 93 and it was top notch. Not so much since Ingersoll Rand took over. 👍 peace.

@@coolezum yes same manufacturer. I believe Midea in China. They make a lot of private label equipment for a lot of big name manufactures. Similar wrapper, different internals for sure.

John Pina - I typically dont notice it cycling or clicking. With the Ford Fox body harness, I didnt change any of the wire locations on the harness, just the PWM settings and made sure the pin was assigned to the correct location. Hope this helps.

I just used the iac plug and harness that came with the mustang adapter harness, didn't change any of the pins

Hey one more question?.. Is there a base timing setting ? How do I sinc the actual timing to what the ecu thinks it is?

@@jacobbock5720 you shouldn’t be messing with it if you don’t know. There’s videos of this stuff search it man.

Funny!! This video was made to show the details of the upfit before I sold the truck. I didnt do any narration on it. Maybe I should update it with a voice over. Thanks for commenting!!

Terry Hobbs - Glad you liked the video. Thanks for the tip on resetting the TPS and where to find the settings, not the easiest to get to. If you look at the TPS% in the video it does show 0%, so the 100% parked IAC was what was causing it to start and run at 2500+ rpm. I think I had it set to hold for 5 or 10 secs and then it caught it and idled down pretty good. After I lowered the park position to 40-50% it worked better. This cam was kind of choppy and 900 rpm idle was the smooth, sweet spot. Anything less made it hunt all over the place. I always forget to save the updated version and load it into the computer. LOL

Do I need to go wire it to output 4? Or is it already wired from holley that way?

Dennis Pedini - Glad you liked it

No problem 😊 Let me know if you have any questions.

Sounds like an install issue. Everyone we have done has worked great. Have done over 30 systems in the last few years. If it works in heat pump mode the cooling mode should be working too. The backup heat strips may be heating instead of the compressor. We are ABC Bosch dealers so let us know if we can help. Thanks.