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Wow! Nice work. I found this video while searching for instructions on how to simply remove the door panel. While your video didn’t specifically show this, I now see where the clips are located so I should be good to go.

Did your tachometer work? My 1970 Midget tach stopped working when I installed electronic distributor. Putting points style distributor back in. Took me a lot of research to discover this problem.

Anytime I'm working under a car I always put a couple of spare wheels under a good strong part of the undercarriage, just in case a jack stand fails. Never rely on one source of support.

Heat the hub in the oven and freeze the bearing, it'll drop straight in and fit tight when back to normal temperature

Engine number tag is absent. 😀Great little cars.

Weak spark, give points a bigger gap. Then check ignition timing. Today's petrol is very poor and gives classic cars a lot of problems.

Those carbs are out of balance, sync and all points in between! If not, Could be the condenser. Condensers are crap these days.

I like your idea of painting the aluminum radiator. It looks very nice. I have too and debating on whether to paint it similarly. Also, that’s one of my favorite Midget colors that yellow! 👍

Could you please tell us what size sockets you used for driving the bearing and seal ?

I would have threaded the big hole and put a fine thread iron plug and re surfaced that thing. But you got it good. Theres not very much compression in that engine.

Leak down test.

Hi what size were the sockets you used to press the bearings in? Thanks

I just installed an Aluminum radiator that was perfect the fans in the kit was to thick had to move radiator toward passenger side to get to work

The one I bought is at this link. www.amazon.ca/Aluminum-Radiator-Austin-Healey-Frogeye/dp/B09NPTWK64/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=204T4VAJ7SG9J&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qvXWroxzMJTmWNuHhjcKbmqMSdvBj66WIYIGBGdYXguuo4t_hZH6iGP6vpb0tkO5J3GVltqi1aSmocL1pj19lSiKVqOgjpviRzYKSHtfJPVY62zHuKVu1nMmd627Sly8xRuotIzmEBK0UYzkS4m2cMPIyabjgk6fezUVLXjIvzqxUXmtqF6Rfhbk1U8GFHPAFzx0Arv1TpmY-Ezw5MnjUQ.uh9t8jOPVX6ipYGh2FdK86h2_9VBuzvJckQwGUfvpBU&dib_tag=se&keywords=mg+midget+radiator&qid=1717720013&sprefix=mg+midget+radiator%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-2

Do you have a link for the one you bought? I do see a number of them on Amazon, but a lot of '74 and beyond ones. That and older ones.

Thanks for posting the video, thinking of doing this on mine, whats your opinion now after using it for a few months?

Is that the stock carpet or aftermarket? Debating an eBay kit or the moss kit

Thanks for your comment. I know lots of people have successfully used the push through mount things but I would never recommend it with an old Midget radiator after this mess. I forgot to mention in the video that the fan housing doesn’t even fit in the front without some trimming. The Moss fan kit relay was also lower quality than the cheap Amazon ones I bought for the lights. They need to do better. I was lucky to have a spare (if ugly) rad to use temporarily. Still added hours of work and will add hundreds of dollars to correct.

Thanks for posting up a warts and all video 👍 that fan conversion looks an awkward job and the kit from moss has room for development by them 😊 those push through cable ties gave me the colly-wobbles, radiator cores can be delicate… Enjoying your videos, keep them coming 🙏

Great work around and probably saved you at least three hundred Biden Bucks in this economy.

Did you ever solve this? My 73 midget runs at 70psi hot, 50psi at idle hot

I bought my 71 the same color after it sat in the garage for 43 years. The owner felt he was too old to work on it so he sold it to me for nearly nothing I dove into it very quickly. The car had no rust but needed Brake hoses and a clutch slave cylinder the previous owner had done everything else including a new tank. I had it up and running with a new head gasket and exhaust valves after five days. Since then, I have re-sprayed it and converted it to original spoke knock off wheels. New top I drive it every day I have put 5000 miles on it since October 23.

Were you able to get to the starter from the top? I'm having a hard time reaching the bottom bolt.

This video just came across my feed. Really spent alota time on it! The Midget looks great, probably wish you would have finished it long ago, so you could enjoy the ride, BUT, looks like you enjoyed the rebuild as well! Good stuff!

I had gross jets in mine that caused the same issue. Got the right parts from Joe Curto . If there’s no vacuum leaks definitely fuel starvation. Try increasing the spark plug gap from 25 to 35 that helps also. Beautiful MG love your work!

I like to take my K car convert. to local car shows. I don't stop, I just drive through so they can gawk in envy.

Interesting and informative video 👍

😂 just caught up with this video after writing a war & peace length comment on the condenser video 😂 very useful video, subscribing 👍

Great tip regarding testing the condenser… You mentioned buying a spare to keep with the car… I’d like to recommend the dizzy doctor (uk) for quality components. I replaced the condenser in my moggy two years/3K miles ago and it’s still going strong. ESM Morris Minors also stock dizzy doctor condensers… Expensive (10$) but quality… ESM provide a top service…

Great job.. Thanks.

that half shaft looks remarkedly dry...

Great video thank you!

Happy new year. Help if possible, my door mirror eont dtay in place, has no tension,the mirror just flops on the actual door stem. Any clues how to tighten it, not the mirror glass the ehole mirror housing. Many thanks

Absolutely fabby information.

How do you remove the door card please.

I’m also in the process of taking apart the rear hubs for the brake adjusters. When taking the backing plate off of the axel. What side is the bolt holding the backing plate on? And what size is the socket please? Did you film this bit? Thanks !

that's how they are built...you know why they don't make computers in the uk...they haven't figured how to make them leak oil

Where did you get those plug wires and what kind are they

Not sure if you got this sorted. 80psi on a cold engine with choke is not unusual for these engines. High oil pressure will not make it blow smoke. The oil pressure is measured with a hot engine. Many of us run 15w40 or 10w40 as the 20w50 is like honey when it is cold; this means high oil pressure and low flow.

Looks good to me and just needs running in. On these A series engines they should have small O rings on the valves to reduce oil passing down the valve stems. I would be interested to see after running in what the smoking was like when the rings have bedded fully with the bores.

How do you remove the old bearings, since they're pressed in? I'm at a loss as I want to repack them and replace the seal. Thanks

I literally just did this job on my Frogeye yesterday afternoon, along with fitting new drums and shoes. Job went smoothly, but I'm intrigued by the packing of the bearing with grease. Obviously, it's normal & essential practice with unsealed ball and roller race bearings, but in this case the unsealed bearing is exposed to the rear axle oil. When I stripped the bearings out all the grease had long since been flushed out by this oil, but the bearings were nevertheless still well coated in oil and in not bad condition. I have an original 1958 works manual for the car and it mentions that the axle oil can reach the bearing so I can only assume that this is a satisfactory long term lubricant for it. I did nevertheless pack the new bearing with grease in the conventional manner so that there would be lubricant there until the axle oil found its way along to the end of the axle casing. I fit the seal with a special rubber lubricant (not rubber grease) that makes it almost possible to push them in by hand. I then lay the old seal on top of it before tapping in with a large socket (it's just a little protection for the rubber from the steel socket).The lubricant is made for fitting suspension bushes and the like and it really excellent because it goes off in the absence of air meaning that the seal is firmly held once fitted. It used to be an embarrassing product to order because it was called "rubber lube" and you always got a lot of innuendo from the supplier when you said what you wanted. Fortunately, they changed the name; unfortunately they changed it to "bush lube". They couldn't have made things any worse if they'd tried! If "bush lube" means nothing stateside, look it up for the British meaning.

thanks. I can use the same process for my MGA.

Hi, How is the epoxy holding up? Just as good as having them stitched?

How did you delete the air pump? Looks great!

Very nice car. I have its twin down in Florida.

what on earth were you censoring ? lol

Smoking is from rings or coolant..head gasket

True Canadian, using hockey nets to support your wheels! Nice!

I have a 1970 mgb that is literally brand new showroom condition. Same yellow color too