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Thanks for your comment, glad it was helpful :)

Hi there, you've got a couple of options. You can use an extendable mop with microfiber cloth or similar (no bristles). Or you can put a drop cloth down, then a walk board / plank that is at least 2-3m long, resting on the purlins, and carefully walk on that. Hope that helps! Kurt.

Hi there, you can't really use glue on any clear roofing. It may break it down, and will eventually work free. Thanks, Kurt.

@sunnysidenz thanks Ed,....What would you recommend instead of screwing the sheets to the rafters? Basically each sheet will have one rafter in the middle for support. As I want to sheets to last I didn't really want to drill them so thought I could puta bead of silicone down the middle beam to keep it in place... its evo stick bond solent free... any advice would be much appreciated.. thanks Stephen

No worries Stephen. If you really don't want to screw through the sheet you could look at having a joiner on each rafter instead. So you can cut the sheets in half, have a joiner on the middle rafter as well, so all the sheets are held down with joiners (rather than screws or glue). Thanks, Kurt.

HI there. I wouldn't recommend cutting them down, best to leave them as full sheets running the whole way down the roof. If you cut them down there's no real way to stop them leaking where the water runs. I'd recommend rafters at 2ft centers (600mm). That way you'll have a rafter running the center of the sheet supporting it (you can put screws through the sheet into this rafter), and a rafter on each edge that you can put the H channel joiner on to join the sheets. Alternatively, instead of the center rafter, you can put nogs/purlins running between the joining rafters. So these would be 90deg to you joining rafters. You could space them about 2-3ft apart. Don't use silicone as that can break down the polycarbonate, and will eventually work free anyway. Hope that helps! Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz OMG! THANK YOU FOR SUCH A QUICK AND FULL RESPONSE! Bless you a thousand times! I am not sure I understand the 'nog', but my husband and brother will! Wish you were close to me... I would hire you to do it! lmao! May life hold you safe and happy! You are definitely my 'sunnyside' today! Keep up the great videos! :-)

No worries, happy to help and I hope it all goes well! Thanks :) Kurt.

Can you share which tapes you would use for end and the other under flashing roof side? We are using u channels at one end, but not the end against facia, as the first installers did not do it, so now we have to use a tape. It is under flashing. I think it is a silver metallic type but can't find it again. Thx again!!

Oh wait ... think i found it in your video...lmao

Hi there, we recommend no more than 150mm. Around 50mm is standard, as that will hang into a gutter. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz okay thanks for that, maybe I'll just do 30mm. Not doing a gutter.

All good. 30mm will be ok. You don't want to do too much less as you can get water rolling under and dripping down the purlin creating drip lines on it.

@@sunnysidenz sorry, another question. What about the overhang on the sides? Should I cut the wooden support flush with the poly overhang of about 40mm (just fixing the poly in 19mm X 90mm timber). Building a bird cage type design so small foot print. Seems like you can only buy 50mm poly screws not 35mm, so my screws will be poking out. Appreciate the advice

No worries. Yes it's difficult to get shorter screws, I haven't seen anyone who sells them. You should have the poly pretty much flush with the sides of the structure (not overhanging as it's too flexible sideways and will rattle around). Up to 10mm overhang would be ok, but nothing more.

Thanks for your comment :)

Thanks so much for your comment :) Unfortunately we don't sell in Australia, just NZ. However polycarbonate.com.au has been around for ages and sells similar products. Thanks, Kurt.

I've found with a 20mm gap at the top of the door it hasn't been an issue :)

Hi there, we don't recommend joining them end to end (which is what I think you mean). It's really hard to waterproof, and to stop debris and sediment from sitting on the lower sheet and making it's way back up into the flutes of the higher sheet. Thanks, Kurt.

Could I use an H channel between the 2 pannels?

Thanks, appreciate the comment :) For the Custom Glaze, the ridges are 610mm apart center to center so if you put your rafters at 610 apart that will hide the overlaps. But it's not mandatory, as the sheets sit on the purlins anyway. The purlins need to be no more than 1500mm apart. Hope that helps! Kurt.

Yes, any longer than a metre or so can be difficult. Generally you should cut the U channel to the width of the sheet only. If you really want the full 3m length you could try levering them on with a long piece of aluminium. Or using a rubber mallet (and a block of wood) to slowly push them on. Hope that helps! Kurt.

No worries, glad you found it helpful :) Unfortunately there's no easy fix for rain noise. Twinwall (multiwall) is slightly quieter than profiled (e.g. corrugated) but not much. Without having insulation under it (like a house roof), you'll get rain noise. Thanks, Kurt.

Thanks :) We only clean it once every few months. It doesn't get very dusty up there.

Hi there, generally your solar panel brackets will come with fasteners for fixing to a roof. Usually it'll be a system that has a washer that goes between the bracket and the roof, to prevent leaking. For polycarbonate roofing you'll need to make sure this washer is large enough to cover the expansion hole. You might need to purchase oversized washers. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz I have wooden planks 80x50mm, so decided to take 20x3mm steel flatbar cut into 120mm pieces. Make 8.5mm holes at the ends so that 82mm distance between holes. Using threaded rods 8M clamp the flatbars and make holes 15mm in corrugated sheets. in the top part of the rod put pair of nuts and between those nuts leg which will be holding the rail for solar panels. PVC 0.7mm will be plaing role of the oversized washer.

Hi there, I used a ladder from the deck and reached across each sheet to screw it down as I went. Another way would be to use a board on top of the rafters / purlins. The sheets are too flexible to put weight on them. If you really need to get on top of the sheets (e.g. to clean them at a later stage) you can put a drop cloth down, then a large sheet or plank that goes across a few sheets / purlins so it spreads the load. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz Hi, thank you for replying. I will be trying to fit polycarbonate roofing sheets . I’ve been racking my mind on how to reach to fasten them down . The roof dimensions are 2.6 metres x 10.6 metres. As the sheets need to overlap. The last fixing is left, for the next sheet to go over . That’s when I’m wondering how to fix down? If that makes sense?

Hi there. Yes I did use a Dektite on the pipe. I didn't use an apron flashing at the top edge as there wasn't enough room. I could have used a back channel flashing, but I opted for putting foam infill in-between the sheets and the soffit. This has stopped any water or leaves from going up and over that edge. It's a closed cell foam so is watertight, as long as it's held tight enough between the sheets and soffit. Thanks, Kurt.

I have foam infill strips up the top, in between the soffit and the top of the sheet to stop water being blown back. You don't need to use them anywhere else on an open structure. The only other place you might use them is down the bottom, if you're enclosing the sides and want to stop water and debris coming in the gaps. But if the sides are open then there's no point.

No worries Andrew. It can get quite tricky with longer lengths. First thing is you definitely need to clamp the straight edge down, it's too hard to hold at that length. If it's Twinwall you're cutting, a knife will still be fairly easy. If it's Custom Glaze or acrylic, then using a circular saw will be easier. I don't have a video for that (yet), but there are a few on TH-cam. The finer the blade the better, and I find setting it on a shallow cut works well. You can also use a jigsaw. Or even a handsaw if necessary, it just takes a while. Regards, Kurt.

The u.s love the gold old British measuring system 😂

Hi Mateo :) Hopefully you found some suitable screws for the multiwall. You need something with a large metal washer and then a neoprene washer underneath. And since it's outside it needs to be either galvanized or stainless. Either one is fine. Stainless will last longer, but galvanized will last longer than the sheets anyway. In terms of cracking, there are a number of causes. One of them will definitely be the screws not having an expansion hole. You'll need to drill a 12mm expansion hole first (about half an inch). Also, the screws may be too tight. The second thing might be no room for expansion in the joiner. Is there a bit of a gap for the sheets to move in that joiner? Happy to help out on one of your videos :) I'll DM you.

Hi there. Yes, generally it can be fitted directly on to the horizontal purlins, as long as the joiners that you're using are suitable for that. It should show in the installation instructions for your system whether it's ok to only be supported on the purlins (depending on how far apart they are - usually around 800mm 32in or so). Thanks, Kurt.

Will do, I'll pay them in sweets :)

Hi there, generally you don't need to cover the ends of the joiners. However if the top end is exposed (e.g. not under a flashing) then you could put some sealant in there. Or if you're in a very dusty environment you could put sealant or tape on both ends of the joiner. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, glad it was helpful :) Perhaps you could use some sort of flashing for the fibro? Thanks, Kurt.

@@people-of As it turns out I'm investigating flashing along with a rubber sealant. Unfortunately it'll rain tomorrow so will have to wait it out before continuing. Cheers.

Hi there, you can cut them individually with tin snips or shears, or 3-6 together with a sharp handsaw. We have another video on our channel on how to cut: th-cam.com/video/RamWhGuuv9E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rdhpsmhYwbuMH32h Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, unfortunately there's no product that does that. With any sort of sunlight comes some sort of heat. The best option is opal which diffuses the light and cuts out some of the heat 🙂 Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, good spotting. Ideally you wouldn't kneel on it, but because I've used it for some time I know how much weight I can put on it. Too much weight, especially on the point of the knee, and you will crush the channels. Best practice would be to use a drop sheet and plank on top if you need to put weight on it :)

Thanks :) We actually supply the Twinwall, so if you're in New Zealand it can be purchased from sunnyside.co.nz. If you're not in New Zealand, if you search for Twinwall or Multiwall polycarbonate in your area you should find some suppliers. Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, no worries. It depends on the width of the sheet, and the inside width of the joiner. E.g. if your sheets are 610mm wide, and you allow a 30mm gap for the joiner, then you'd have 640mm spacings centre to centre. There's a diagram here that may help: sunnyside.co.nz/product/twinwall-polycarbonate-roofing/ Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, thanks for the additional cause! There can be a couple of reasons for this. Is that the direction the wind normally comes from? If so, you may need to overlap the sheets the other way (e.g. the sheet that's under, put that one over top), i.e. so the wind blows over top of the overlap (not under the overlap). It may also be that your purlins aren't close enough together (and therefore your screw lines), allowing the sheet to flex too much between screws. If that doesn't fix it, there was a product called lap tape that was sticky on both sides. And it would stick the overlaps of the sheets to each other. However this was more trouble than it's worth as eventually it would get sediment and dirt stuck to it as well. Some people have also put noise stop tape down the overlapping edge, to minimise the rattling. I hope that helps? Cheers, Kurt.

Very useful video! I also think wind is causing this at my place with recently installed PVC roof. Only happens when it is windy.... Sure wish I had seen this video before the roofing was installed. I don't want to redo it, but don't want to have to replace it if it starts cracking in the next few years.

Glad it was helpful :)

Ah that's a shame, there's no easy way to fix it. It would be good if you could flip the sheet over but most sheets only have UV protection on one side, so that would expose the unprotected side. You can't glue or silicone as it looks bad and will eventually work loose. Your best option is to put some screws in where he's drilled the holes and hopefully the washer is sealed enough that it doesn't leak. Make sure the hole is big enough to allow for expansion too. All the best with it!

Hi there, our H snap joiners are designed to be screwed through the bottom, into the rafter. Then you put the sheets on and then snap the top part of the H joiner on. If the sheets are 1200mm wide, they will also need to be screwed through the sheets into the rafter that goes under the middle of the sheet. More info here: twinwall.co.nz/ Thanks, Kurt.

Hi there, thanks for your message. I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Could you please clarify? Regards, Kurt.

Hi there, yes the sheets do let solar heat through but some block more than others. The clear lets 100% through, bronze 72%, grey 61% and opal (opaque) 41%. Thanks, Kurt.

@@sunnysidenz is Opal the lowest in terms of % of heat retention? Is there anything lower?

@@mohammedseedat7795 That's correct, opal lets the least amount of heat through, there's nothing lower in the Suncover or Laserlite 1000. There is Laserlite 3000 platinum which lets 31% through, so slightly less again. sunnyside.co.nz/product/laserlite-2000-and-3000-polycarbonate/

Glad it was helpful :) Yes you would need to add supports no further apart than 600mm (for 6mm Twinwall) or 800mm (for 8mm). Otherwise it will flex too much. Regards, Kurt.