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Well, this style of motorized bike had a very long production run. Yours being from 2005 is totally plausible, as well as mine being from the 1980's :) When I first got it years ago i did my research and concluded is from the 80's.

@ is have saxxonette luxus ik dutch btw

Please contact me on my e-mail. isographer@yahoo.com . Best wishes!

Hello, yes, if the wheel spins in one direction only AND the engine will not turn over, i would suspect the clutch, unfortunately.

@isographer Thanks, looks like it needs completely stripping down.

Hy, this is a valid question, however i think the length of additional line necessary to affect fuel pressure is far greater than what I have installed in that particular experiment. And yes, the engine feels much more lively and it would appear it would have better torque. Mind you, in small measures, but certainly something you can feel.

Unfortunately the model I had was without screws. The power cord just went into a block of plastic sealed with resin.

@@isographer i have Hitachi g12stx, and i needed to change a cord, and a screws was under like plastic cover or something. And yours looks like mine...

@@mantastumas5824 Than you are lucky. The whole reason I have made this video is because of the fact that the cord of my Hitachi went directly into a sealed resin-block, which appeared as a very poor design decision. Now, many times manufacturers produce *similar* items in different quality grades or batches for different markets. My grinder was bought new in in my country, Romania, so I suspect that had something to do with it...

Hy, i have considered using some sealant but in the end decided to go against it, for three reasons: 1. In case my experiment wasn't successful and I had to re-do it, i did not want to compromise the lip of the opening with hardened/sticky sealant. This way, if things go bad, i can just drill out the rivets and re-do it. 2. I was hoping that the canvas will become its own sealant, and luckily, it did. I sprayed the canvas top with a pressure washer many times, and I have no water ingress at the rear window ( i had to put a drop of gel Super Glue on each of the rivet's centers, because i had water seeping in through there, but not at the actual lip/rim of the window 3. I was afraid that applying sealant might result in ugly run-out dripping from under the metal frame, as I am not usually very good with glues/gooey stuff.

@@isographer "i had to put a drop of gel Super Glue on each of the rivet's centers, because i had water seeping in through there" - You have addressed my only concern. Basically I was worried that the hole in the canvas would move over time and become distorted, thus allowing water ingress. But you have it covered - nice job. If only all cars had the rear window pressed in, like my Saabs, instead of glued in, like my Volvo and your Audi, the world would be a better place...!

@@majstorovicaleksa9492 hy, i'm 194 cm so you should be ok.

All in good time, nobody was bon all-knowing.

Yep, the optics are of high quality and overall the kit is a nice thing to have on your collection. Since getting the kit depicted in this video, I got another separate Tair 300mm lens to actually "abuse" and shoot with it.

And miss out all the gore?

Hy, I have made this video with the purpose of showing what happens when you try to use heat to dislodge a stuck pipe nipple. The brake pipes and the bake hoses got replaced anyway on that car, so actually i could have used even more destructive methods than this one.

Well said.... thanks :)

Thanks! Didn't know what a Moscow Mule Mug is, but thanks to you i do now.

Appreciate it!

Hello, the tires are 195 SR 15 on stock rims. They are slightly bigger (wider) than the standard tires but they go well with the car and are easier to get.

@@isographer thanks so much for your response. I have an LJ80v and it had 16-6 rims with very thin bar treads. I am looking to get 215 on there with wider rims similar 👍

@@andrebaumbach9447 From what I understand the older style 16 inch rims equipped originally with bias ply ties are more common on LJs. In Europe in the later years of production there were 15 inch wheels offered (equipped with 165 SR 15 radial tires). To be frank a part of me would want to find a set of older wheels and try them on just for fun, but on the other hand i like the car as it is now :)

Hy, thank you for your sound advice. I have thought about doing so myself, and I believe it will work, however I wanted something a little quicker so in a subsequent video I have heated up the plaster mold in a kitchen gas oven, face down. The results were satisfactory, albeit the melted PLA smell was not (but the good part is that PLA is non-toxic) and overall the pour went well. Here is the video: th-cam.com/video/qcLMZMCr8N4/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=isographer

Hello - Romania, Braila district.

@@isographer Thank you !

Hello, is in Romania, Braila district.

@@isographer thanks 😊

Salutare, merge cu orice spray de vopsea.

Salut, Twingo-ul l-am vandut unui amic, inca merge cu ea. As merge pe Fiat Seicento, ca sa fiu sincer, strict pt. oras. E mai mica si consumul e mai bun. Daca se asteapta si drumuri in afara orasului, atunci Twingo.

@@isographer multumesc

@@gicusv1 Cu placere, mai mentionez ceva legat de Twingo: primele versiuni (pana in '97) aveau un motor pe injectie similar celui de Dacia clasic. Era ok, dar consumul era maricel si performante asa-si-asa. Intre '97 si 2001 s-a folosit un motor cu injectie multipunct cu un raport f bun intre performante si consum. Practic in mintile lui acel motor poate sa consume sub 5 in afara (mers batranseste) si un 7 si ceva in oras. Dupa 2001 s-a introdus o versiune inbunatatita a acestui motor cu 16 Valve, mult mai potent (chiar se simte la demaraj) , dar cu un consum pe masura 7-8 L/100 in afara, si peste 10 in oras. Eu am avut motorul "de mijloc" , cod D7F si am fost f multumit. Motorul cu 16Valve e cod D4F, iar primul... e atat de rar in Romania, incat nici nu merita vorbit de el. Succes.

Thank you, the secret is to use sand. I have actually managed to cast a more complex shape in a later video, but in that situation I have kept the mold over night in the oven. I do believe that it is important to remove all the water content from it.

Hy, thanks for the kind words. To be frank it will not happen soon as the second vise is a locally produced one (Romania) in the 1990's and is not as valuable and is quite common around here. Furthermore, it is the vise I abuse the most and sees a lot of grinding, hammering and bashing not to forget all those times I've clamped something in it and heated up with a blowtorch... so unfortunately it won't get pretty any time soon.... I just oil the main screw and sliders from time to time.

Hy, you could do it if your type 3 is fuel injected but i wouldn't recommend it in a carburetor type 3, or any carburetor-powered car for that matter, except "maybe" in winter. Today's modern gasoline is much more volatile and it will literally boil in the carburetors and vapor lock all the time. In a fuel injected cars this does not happen as the gasoline is in a closed pressurized system and is constantly returning to the fuel tank spanning the full length of the car. Also, if fuel injected don't do it by wrapping the fuel line directly on the exhaust - it is too hot, find some way to add a bit of insulation between the fuel line and the exhaust, so that the fuel line won't get hotter than 100 degrees Celsius.

Thank You!

recently watched your video again and this question came up: is this device as effective for carburetor fed engine as it is for direct injected ones.? Thanks again

Hy, i don't think it will hold well against the weather. All the artworks i have plated this way in the past were protected by applying adittional layers of clearcoat.

Thanks! If I do it I will update how it worked out, might add a coat just in case@@isographer

I hope it works for you as well! Good luck