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Matt Kinsela
Australia
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 20 ม.ค. 2022
Follow along as i build an LS3 powered 60 series landcruiser!
Bracing and Straightening my Diffs!
In this video i convert the front diff to flipped arms, then brace and straighten the housings while performing an experiment. Which way is the best to weld a diff to prevent it warping?
มุมมอง: 7 494
วีดีโอ
Building a new tray for my Toyota Hilux!
มุมมอง 19K28 วันที่ผ่านมา
Hey Guys! After a few months of wheeling my IFS N70 Hilux with the big boys the factory alloy tray has really copped a beating so i thought it was time to build something a bit more fit for purpose, while still remaining quite light and practical. The tray will be mostly made from aluminum to keep weight down with a tough steel outer to take anything it may cop while out on the tracks. In this ...
Cab mounted and Shocks in!
มุมมอง 14K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video I mount the cab to the chassis and get the 4 front shocks mounted.
Springs, Shocks and Bumpstops!
มุมมอง 6K3 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video we go through the 4 key components in any suspension system and how they work together
Fitting a Nissan Diff into my Toyota
มุมมอง 15K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video I cram a GU front diff into my landcruiser diff front housing which turns out quite well.
My 60 front suspension is nearly done!
มุมมอง 10K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video i go through what to look for when fitting a panhard and get it mounted in my 60
My 60 Build gets an engine and diffs!
มุมมอง 10K6 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video I get the engine and box in and mount the diffs in the chassis with the custom radius arms and double triangulated 4 link rear.
Use CAD at home in 15 minutes!
มุมมอง 5K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
In just 15 minutes we will go through how to take an idea and design it on the computer to get it cut out by a CNC machine.
60 Build Ep 2 - Chassis bracing
มุมมอง 9K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
Episode 2 working on my Dream 60 Build. I have prepped the chassis and got it ready to start bracing up. We plate the inside and outside to help stiffen it and get it ready for future brackets.
Lets Build a 60 series! ep 1 - The plan
มุมมอง 23K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hey guys, I am building a 60 series in memory of my old man. Come along for the journey as i take you through each step and offer advice and tips along the way.
I need some of them gloves and some spates for my thongs 😅
10 20mm flat weld opposite for braising
hydraulic bumps would be awesome. check out kings.
Personally I like the idea of flipped arms for the way it changes the geometry for a better ride and in my situation that is more important than clearance but it's a great side affect to have. Will definitely be looking into a kit in the future. Your build is very interesting , look forward to more
Nice build and really nice parts you make....... well thinking fellow.
Was hanging out to watch to straightening it, left out the best bit. Also after your test with the pipe which technique did you go for? Did you end up preloading the housing?
I love the detail you're going into mate. It's awesome to go through the thinking of the build and design decisions.
Great video mate, and you’ve covered a lot of what I agree with. One major issue (other than welding distortion) that I often see is the bracing/reinforcement being placed inboard of the spring points/ link mounts etc. Your rear housing was on point (end to end) but the front (for obvious reasons) was inboard. Given the input forces are at the wheel and the resistance to these is at the links, springs and bumpstops, the bracing isn’t doing much. In fact it could be introducing a greater difference in stiffness at the highest stress point which is less than ideal.
Matt will probably address this (either comment or video) but for the DIY’r if you want to straighten an axle housing after welding you’ll need the following. Centreless ground solid bar , pucks to suit carrier bearing location in diff housing (and solid bar) a steel beam (UB ) , lifting chains and at least a 10 tonne bottle jack (but a porta press is favourable) Simply chain the housing to the beam ( obviously one chain each end) and press the housing in the appropriate areas to return to straight. This will take multiple goes and moving the hydraulic jack/cylinder about as necessary.
I would love to see how the arms are made and brackets as well. Is there a way to get a flipped arm DIY fabrication kit to the US? Or maybe laser cut file sent to me or a trusted distributor who could cut them and ship them in the US? I have a Disco and a Classic with 80 series axles under one currently and one in a soon to be swap. I too would love to see the straightening process in long-form with all the details. It may save my rearend one day.
D2 radius arms will be longer than Toyota LC and they have big flexible bushes….
Really keen to see the process of how you straighten the diff housings
Doing this also. But struggling to find a GU locker that can have the side gears swapped to the 30spline for Toyota. Any help would be awesome: I have the side gears. HDJ100 and FZJ105 are the same part number.
How much does the flip arm change the anti dive geometry?
If you are retaining a standard arm then flipping it will do little. If you change the bush separation at axle end or the overall length of arm this would.
@husq2100 I have played around a little with the suspension calculators but not worked out how to calculate for radius arms. I would have thought the angle of the arms would affect the anti dive characteristics. The separation of the mounts at the diff end would effect the stability under brakes and obviously flex. But for a rear triangulated 4 link the link separation at the diff housing is around 25% of tyre diameter which isn't part of anti squat calculation, more a resistance to the diff rolling under accelerations and braking. Happy to be corrected and would be even happier if someone could show how to put radius arms into a suspension calculator
@@bennyjahmin3953 I was a bit wrong. The axle end separation will absolutely affect anti squat/dive on a 3 link or 4 link because it’s the relationship between upper and lower control arms that determines the convergence points, but on a RA it is simply the chassis end pivot that would change anything . A Longer radius arm up front means less anti lift/dive. As for angle of the arm, it doesn’t matter if on top or bottom of the housing the convergence is still the same at the chassis end and the line from tyre contact still strikes through the convergence point. As for axle roll axis angle, some will argue that this changes with flipped radius arms, but I can’t see how it can give its physical attachment and attributes to and with the axle housing. I always plot my front roll axis (with RAs) from axle tube centre to centre of RA chassis bush. Regarding how to calculate RA anti lift (anti dive is a braking force and also requires brake bias in the equation) just use the 3 link calculator. Lowers will be the lower axle bush and chassis bush centres, upper will be the upper axle bush and chassis bush centres. It won’t be truly accurate for change through travel as a 3 link will have a slightly different pinion change and relationship change between upper and lower than a “fixed” RA but it will be close enough for your needs.
Master craftsmen. Well done
Great video Matt. I have braced housings before and used the take your time method, but I will generally only weld 25mm at a time then move around, let it cool and repeat. It looked like your stitch welds were around 75mm in the experiment you did, do you think a much shorter stitch weld would produce different results?
I don't think it'd make a difference. It's not the just the "timeframe" that pulls the diff, it's the added metal of the filler wire. You just can't get around the fact that you're adding metal to the assembly in a molten form that then cools and contracts.
Would love to see the process of straightening a diff for at home builds
Definitely like to see how you straighten the diff
Another awesome video mate… Thank you
Love the content. So much great information in a short video. Keep it up mate
Do you even sleep bro? 😴
Hey Matt, I'd be interested to hear your opinion on this, I recently welded up my front GU diff using a road runner kit. I followed the directions as per road runner and similar to superior. I did 50mm passes over the brace and diff pumpkin housing, I did this over 2-3 days, welding 2-3 50mm passes at a time and letting cool, I obviously tacked and fitted it all up. With the knuckles being cast I wanted to pre heat so I left the housing in the sun on a hot day and map gassed the knuckles and welded on the 8mm knuckles plates, these are opposite each side so hoped that they would counter each other out, these I welded side to side but didn't let them cool obviously as I was trying to keep the heat in with cast and then let them cool over the rest of the day gradually. I've been running the front diff for a few months, maybe putting 1-2k on the car, wheel alignment was was fine and no front axle seal leaks however I've only been in 4x4 for 200-300k of those ks. Do you find these home jobs tend to have bent housings and any issues with this process? Obviously been a home job I didn't have any way to check if the housing was bent pre or post..
The problem is the stresses are accumulative. When a weld cools, it shrinks. You might reduce this with not doing them all at once or even “back stepping” but they won’t be neutral. Peening the hot weld can help as well. I’d guess your housing is not true. But you might be lucky and it might be minimal. I’m not familiar with GU but I don’t run axle seals in the housing in my LR. A CV will allow a little more misalignment than a straight rear axle will. The other thing, are the swivel balls cast or forged? They can look very similar. Forging would be superior in strength.
I’ve watched all the other 4wd boys weld in diff braces on the million dollar cars and not one of them has checked to see how straight they are .. they all probably watching matty freaking out now haha
Awesome Matt, that’s a dreamy front housing and cool how you’ve made the flipped arms low profile to maximise uptravel!👌 Would love to get numbers on up/down travel and ride height once it’s all setup for context
Can you put the strait pipe in the housing before you brace it, So you don’t have to straiten it ?
It would bend that bar and you'll never get it out.
Would love to see the process of straightening a diff 👌🏽
Nice work Matt. Makes me wonder how many bent axle housing there are out there :)
Lots. Small amounts get away with it, but more bent can definitely lead to failed wheel bearings, snapped drive flange bolts or axles.
Love the work
Great job. Great videos 👍 Keen to do the flipped arms on 78 series
Would be super interesting to see the process of how you straighten the housing
I was really looking forward to seeing how that's done
Same
I was kind of hoping the same. I recently straightened a trophy truck housing with a 3.5" x 3/8" wall thickness axle tube. Did it by securing on a huge beam and preloading in the direction it needed to go then using lots of heat/quench cycles. Is now running true
Yay cool workshop content!
Would be cool to see a quick walk around of the Ute, to show what essential mods you have done. Very impressive driving to keep up with dedicated cars.
Yeah had a few guys ask for one, I’ll get one done!
Would love to have a rig rundown on what’s done to the Hilux mate!
Yeah alright man a few people have asked I’ll get one done!
@ awesome mate looking forward to it!
Hey Matt, where about did you get/buy the ally floor slats ?
Vulcan/ ullrich and capital aluminium manufacture it, possibly others too. But most shops that sell alloy will be able to get it in for you!
Awesome video and design on the tray, where is the best place to buy the aluminium extrusion for the tray? I’ve been searching for awhile now, want to build a trailer floor out of it cheers! Keen to see part 2
Cheers mate, most aluminium suppliers will be able to get it for you. I’m not its actual name, possibly floor plate. The suppliers I’ve used are capital aluminium and ullrich/vulcan now. But most small suppliers would buy off these guys anyway
@ awesome mate, appreciate the reply! Keen to see more videos
Cheers mate!
N70 Rock
What thickness is the steel tube?
3mm mate
@ thanks mate - nice work, I like the mix of Ally and steel 👌🏻
My favourite episodes of 4x4247 are with Matt and Jocko and it’s so good to find this channel, love to see Matt popping up on various channels, having lunch whilst steering one handed was a classic !😅
Haha who’s got time to stop for lunch!
There’s a T-shirt in that👍🏻…luxy on a 45 degree angle - time for a burrito 😅
Love watching these type of build eps. 👌
Great video and quality work Matt, look forward to the next episode. Nice 105 😉 Josh
Yeah the 105 is alright, be better when it’s done 😂
Great Video Matt.
Thanks, glad you like it
Nice video Matt! One awesome fabricator. I like the way you’ve engineered this tray. Nice and strong in the sections you need but light weight where it doesn’t need. Are the bolt rivet things Huck bolts? Keen for more videos!
Cheers man, yeah huck bolts! Sorry probably should have said that lol. You can rent the gun if you don’t want to purchase it too, which is what we use to do when we started using them in some builds as they’re pretty dear! Well our local guys rent them, not sure about other shops
15:50 wait a minute… an Australian video on TH-cam not using kincrome? This is unheard of. 🤔
Definitely use a proper cordless tool brand milwakee makitas over kinchrome
Although unfortunately I had to pay for these 😂
Looks very well thought out. Would love to see some stuff on that disco 1 too
Not mine unfortunately but it’ll pop up on 247 soon I reckon!
Cleeeaann! 🔥
Would suit the 80 I reckon!
Great job with this. Can't wait to see jocks landy bar work lol
Haha well spotted!
Unreal. I’ll accept this while waiting on another 60 update!!
Yeah poor 60 been missing out a little bit recently 😔
Another great video thank you
I enjoy your video style mate, no bullshit and all the info you need. Good shit.
Cheers man!
Been waiting for this vid to come out awesome stuff looking good so far, keen for episode 2
Looks pretty good for a rectangle you reckon 😂
@ 🤣🤣
Tidy!