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Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment. Metering is RGB.

@@red_code i only use Voigtlander noktons now. only 1 heliar 12mm f5.6 VM..

@@ArmaniFlyHigh good to hear from you. I don't own any Nokton. Maybe later. Sometimes, too much lenses are the same as clothes in the closet. Pick up the nearest one😂

Interesting. Happy shootings and thanks for your comment.

Happy New Year ^_^. This is why I consider the CCZ lenses modern but without electronic parts. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment. This one is still a bid-heavy. I'll be seeing the next one, light as paper. You know which one I'm referring ; )

Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, I only own one telephoto, the Contax Carl Zeiss 180mm. It's difficult to manage a tele where I live.

Fair enough! Keep up the good work.

Thank you.

Thanks for your comment. If you are a Contax Carl Zeiss lenses diehard fan, follow the next chapters.^_^

This lens is a masterpiece from TOMIOKA, and fitting that lens into a M42 adaptor I asked for help from my craft man to OEM it. I agree with you, it's a piece for collectors, the bokeh isn't my cup of tea. Thanks for your comment.

I'm happy to hear from you on having copies near mint. Love your glass, have fun, and thanks for your comment.

I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos. Let me know how the 35mm performs for you when you get a chance to try it out! More. Your age is only a number, you are young at heart and we all learn till the day makes us impossible. Wishing you all the best for this 2025. Cheers, and thanks for your comment.

Hello. Reviewing this video of mine, I need to apologise the wrong info. Indeed you are right. The first gen. of SUPER-Takumar don't have a product number, aperture goes until f/22, and filter diameter is 49mm. The second gen. the aperture is until f/16 with a 58mm thread. The central marking of the depth of field scale tricked me in to this as 1st gen. is a "lollipop" marking and the 2nd. gen. a diamond shape. I have my own questions marks. About your last sentence, the number of elements remained the same but arranged in a new improved optical design. Thanks for correcting me and much appreciated.

@ no worries I just learned it like an hour before watching your video but I did a seri it deep dive into what version I’m going to buy , I didn’t end up getting the f22 version , it was real banged up , but I didn’t end order a f16 version off eBay that looks like it’s in mint condition !!

@@Tonellacam Hello and Happy New Year. Have fun.

@@red_code you too my friend !

It's Christmas time and New Year Eve, come on, indulge yourself with a present, and if you are jumping into a f/3.5, that gorgeous squared format hood must be included. Thanks for your comment.

謝謝你

Oh thanks!

Merry Christmas and thanks for your comment. I wish you the best!

You have got a legacy from your grandfather. The Contax II, the after war edition, a rangefinder with a great History. I have one too, at around 98% new and I have a lot of love for that rangefinder, and some times I load a Fujifilm of 36 ASA 200. Using that lens adapted to your mirrorless it is a way on "giving life" to that lens, but don't "hurt" the body. I mean, one day, if you decide to go analog again, that rangefinder could be workable again. In my TOMIOKA playlist, some lenses were taken from the rangefinder body because it's a "junk" camera otherwise, avoid doing this. And if you are interested about the History of the Contax rangefinder, have a look at my latest publication (Chapter 61). And for last, any ANALOG piece that you have, if you don't broke it, you have it for long last. A digital piece, even you keep it in the box, the batteries or electronics components may have reach their working period. Thanks for your comment and have a Merry Christmas.

Do you mean that 15mm😃

@@red_code Yup

Thank you for your comment.. Indeed, you have point out one of my bad habit.

Optically bubbly!😂

You can definitely nail it. The Zeiss Planar 50mm f/1.4 indeed was produced by Tomioka too. Just wait for this chapter and thanks for your comment.

Sorry about that. Thanks for your comment and the next will be Contax lenses, without breaking the History sequence. The last shot was taken two years ago during Christmas time with the (The Meyer&Gorlitz PRIMOTAR 75mm f/1.9. Chapter 18.)

No, it isn't. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment. I have several sites which I find my lenses, most in Asia like Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and China. However, I guess you live in the Sates or Europe. Buying from those could be a bit risky for you in terms of receiving your goods. You can go thru: fotohandeldelfshaven.nl/en/ www.etsy.com/ or kamerastore.com/ About “what I know”😂, from the lens specs, those data are from old lenses catalog, others sources from some old Japanese photographers (my friends), and History, is complicated but related one to another. Once you start with, say, Jupiter lenses, then WWII is precedent. They KEY: be a good observer.

Thanks for your comment and this is a Christmas present for me. Thank you again.

Thank you for your comment and appreciate it ;)

Yep. Collecting M42 you go anywhere.

Thanks for your comment and I'm happy to hear from you.

Thank you for the comment.

Hello and thank you for your comment. (1) In most of my videos, I avoid referring to price. I know perfectly that many lens sellers randomly search for videos on TH-cam and eBay, for one purpose. Look at the demand and RAISE the price. He sees how many views that video got, likes, comments, and always the word "cheap N' good". The normal reaction is "I want one too...". I really regret saying it in this video. Later I preferred not to disclose the price (not using price to call viewers attention), and limit showing you how good (or bad) the lens is, with examples of photos and videos straight from the camera. (2) Many lenses that I own, were bought during COVID 19 followed the Ukraine war (to help desperate families). I live in Macau (China) and someone proposed to me a lot of SILVER HELIOS 44, origin from China mainland, just for a price under US$80 for each unit, but I threw away that opportunity. All lens prices have risen during those times, sellers have noticed the rush for old lenses with a click of the mouse. Try searching on other sites instead of eBay. Never bought a nut/bold from there to be expensive, and I got one search to a decent one for 60,40 cents (without shipping). And sorry to hear that from you.

Hello and sorry for my late reply. Indeed I prefer the f/2 over at f/1.4. The main reason is to keep the iris blades not totally wide open and this gives me round bokeh. Totally wide open, the bokeh could be oval but, this is a matter of taste or style, everyone has different taste and different style. If these two things were common to all of us, there will be no blog sites to share ideas. Same to Auto-Topcor, Minolta or Takumar.🙂Did you agree with me? And that you for your comment and sharing your thoughts. P.S.: Your Celtic is a special one👍

Hello and I'm sorry for my late reply. I don't own the f/4 version but to what I know the f/2.8 is the successor of the f/4. F/4 is the legacy of Zeiss, with zebra patterns and the f/2.8 has a much more modern look, with rubber grip. F/4 gives you vignetting and chromatic aberrations, and even is a F/4, it's border aren't sharp enough, this is my main reason to having the present lens. Thanks for your comment.

@@red_code thank you! I was able to source a PB mount f2.8 but I was not able to get a proper PB_L adapter for my BMPC6K FF. I like to look of that lens and the imagery. Was wondering if I should consider the f4. Maybe not, if it's a predecessor. thank so much for your input and for having this channel!

@@madhavanpalanisamy6688 I have googled around and found this "impressive converter - for the price) kipon.com/product/pl-l/. This is why it is preferable to collect lenses in M42mount. It could be a bit more expensive but this mount has the solution. And I'm a BMPCC 6K user too. Thanks for your comment.

I feel happy hearing from you about the results you can obtain from this lens. 28mm and F/3.5 is a perfect lens for landscape photography because, the rule is "best for f/8 over a tripod". A fast lens (e.g. f/1.4) and then after? You won't be shooting landscape at this aperture, Am I right! Most of my photography I do it over a tripod. Thanks for your comment.

Hello and I'm sorry for the late reply. I was out, collecting footage for a new chapter. About your question, I choose the older generation, the Auto-Takumar. Super-Multi-Coated Takumar is later one. And why do I choose the older one? The Auto is already very sharp, and preserve that old lens look. S.M.C. it's too sharp and that "look" is almost gone. Thanks for your comment. P.S.: Takumar lenses really rocks.

@red_code Like you did I bought the older version, I love the photos with a more vintage look and I thought the car version was the most suitable. Even though I really spent a lot to buy it a significant amount to have it in the best possible conditions. Thank you very much for your reply and courtesy. A hug from Italy. Stefano

@@stefanopiana3699 The pleasure is mine.🥰

Hello and thank you for your comment. Even the glass is yellowish but I don't have any information about if the lens is radioactive.

@@red_code I've watched tests on the Sears Auto 55mm 1.4 with professional meters, and the front element of the older style model ( the one Vintage Optix reviewed) is radioactive and not the rear, which is more common with Pentax, etc..

@@sclogse1 Good to hear from you this information. Tomioka has been producing lenses for those companies, and some specifications may differ. In the case of the Pancolar 50mm f/1.8, the front and rear elements are radioactive, and the rear element emission is stronger than the front one I learned from you all, and what I have learned, radioactive lenses use glass with a thorium mixture (dropped) and not a coating. Thanks for your comment.🙂

I'm happy to hear that. From where I live, shooting with film, is expensive and takes time to develop it. Thanks for your comment.

@@red_code Shooting with film is, where I live, expensive, too. So I never take more than one each month. Colornegative incl. dev. = 15 EUR, colorslide FUJI incl. dev. = almost 30 EUR. The big 'rest' is digital with a brave Nikon D300 and some old Nikkors from 1970-1985;-))

@@philosimot 😅😅Happy Halloween.

Thanks for your comment. I was interested in the Exakta camera, (a full mechanical camera) and that lens came with it. Most of my lenses I ask for my repairman for a "check". However, this one, I done nothing and wasn't expecting for such nice performance.

You are welcome. I hope this video helped you understand the Biometar better.

You welcome, as always.

Let's say: 1 - if the Biotar cost you US$10, the Biometar will cost you only $1,50. 2 - If you are handling a Biotar, first thinking "...let's catch some swirls..." and you come home with an empty SD-Card, if you are looking for a unique bokeh other than trees or lights. With the Biometar, you snap something. Thanks for your comment.