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I have done it on other models. I didn’t do it on this model because there is just open bays behind the spar. These would have to be filled, sanded and then glassed. It would have added more weight and time that I wanted to undertake

Thank you for the info!!! 👍🏻

It’s an RCGF stinger 26cc RE

Thanks for the info!!! Last question what kind and where did you find that spinner??

@@joetapp-ld8fv that a custom spun aluminium spinner that was made to my specs by Russ at aeroscale.com.au. If you ask him for the bf-109 spinner he did for Dave Martin he will sort you out

Awesome!!! Thank you so much!!!

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE what you’ve done with it!!! Do you happen to have a video of how you painted it!!! I would like to do mine as Black 6. I have the exact same kit as yours and I am impressed at how you doctored it up!!! Ok really the last question, what kind of retracts did you use???

Thanks! They are great flyers. I added a couple more flights to it yesterday. It has Sierra retracts that have been modified a bit to make them a little more scale

@@ticketec Someday I'll finish it. Right now I'm working on a 1/4 scale Storch... once that is done, I'll move onto this I think. Need to change up that paintjob for sure! Keep up the good work!

I designed a frame and then covered that with aluminium mesh as used on household flyscreens. I never released the files for the FOD guard because they never really worked well and had moved onto other projects so ran out of time to redesign it

@@ticketec Many thanks, will find out that mesh. Thanks again for sharing this inspiring video and the STL file. I really enjoy flying this F-14 with the Xicoy 45. Only mod, I used 2 500 cm3 tanks as I found they fit more easily .

Responded!

Thank you. It’s a lot of fun to fly

Thank you! Cheers!

I used an 18mm spacer block to mount the engine on the standard firewall. The bolt that goes along the edge of the firewall has its recessed head in the back of that block and the nut on the engine mount side. you can then use a "normal" bolt though the spacer block through the firewall in a more convenient position.

@@ticketec ok thanks so much. Makes sense.

Thank you. A few little changes and you get quite a scale FW-190 from this kit!

Sorry I didn’t see this comment. The scale spinner needs to be closer to 5” diameter. This come came from aeroscale.com.au, but fighteraces also had 1/4 scale FW-190 spinners

I have seen one fly with the 125cc and it was fairly marginal on power. I would recommend use only 2 blade prop, to get the maximum out of the engine. The 180 flies comfortably on just over 1/2 throttle

Here are great models. Mine is now a couple of years old and still going strong

@@ticketec Thanks for the reply.. I think I might go with it.

Hi, the paint is PPG Dulon automotive acrylic paint with a 2k flat clear coat to finish. The paint was custom mixed to match RLM paint chips I have.

You could add a little more fuel, but then the weight goes up and you need to burn off that fuel to get the same performance. Most pilots don’t fly more than 6-8mins, and this is enough fuel for that long.

Thank you so much!

Thank you. She is a pleasure to fly

It’s a German WW2 aircraft… the markings are there purely for the sake of being historically accurate. Good work on your virtue signaling 🙄

I think it was about 1:30 scale. I just sent callie graphics the measurements of the tail fin so she could make sure these would fit correctly.

The thrust line of the turbine is offset to the center line of the aircraft, this means there is a pitching moment in the turbines thrust vector. A dead straight turbine thrust line causes all these under-slung turbines to make the aircraft climb almost uncontrollably. The supplied STL mount angle is correct to within about 1 degree which gives next to no pitch change with throttle changes during flight.

@@ticketec thanks for the explanation. Just one more thing, have you reinforced the airframe and changed the stock servos for the turbine conversion?

@@aviationunlimited4353 NO mods required. I flew it with stock servos everywhere,but have since upgraded the elevator servos because the whole elevator system has too much slop and this can cause issues with wings swept back flight

hi, where can i download the STL files? thank you​@@ticketec

Its not that old a video :D I have personaly seen the UMS 125cc in this model and found it to be underpowered. I do not recommend it for a 1/4 warbird

Thanks for quick reply, very useful info. I will go for 180 or a lighter model like TopRc.@@ticketec

@@serkansalah1883 I think you will find the topRC is actually smaller and heavier

Thank you. Looking right on the ground is only 50% of the battle. Luckily she is a joy to fly

Thank you. It’s a gasoline engine and mixed with oil. Yes it needs a long breaking in process.

it flies great with the turbine!

I might try and do a more in depth conversion video soon

Yes. Originally it was Seidel radials from Germany

Jet A1

So far it has been great! I’ve got plenty of flight with it now and love it

Biela 26x16 3 blade

Awsome I am currently building the exact same model with the 180ums 5cyl. How did you find the CQ? Did you have add much tail weight?

@@crzycro982 I have all my batteries in the tail wheel compartment and added no lead at all.

About 8-9mins of mixed flying

@@ticketec that is awesome, I get about 4 minutes with mine stock EDF

and with 2 500 cc tanks I got about 6', thanks again for this great post

I would not recommend it. The F-14 is on the heavier side. I would try single 80mm models

@@ticketec Could you recommend one but with the turbine installed like the F14?

I used a K30 G2 on my F14 conversion and it flew just fine. I now have X45's and it would be the perfect engine! I used 6 degrees down thrust and it seemed about right, plus a single 750mm tank directly in front of the swing wing mechanism.

Danke. if you look at my newer video with my Anton you will see far more detailed added to a bigger fw-190.

No nothing extra. The AK interactive paints are proving to be quite durable