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Completely rebuilt, so the controller and battery too..

@@enduroonroad6896 oh cool, if you don’t mind me asking what kind of controller did you swap it with?

Different bike in terms of power and torque - big difference. Smaller rear rosette = more comfortable driving on the road (higher maximum speed, lower revs) but worse in off-road technical passages (very fast first gear, lower torque). You have to choose where you want to ride or choose a compromise in sec. gear ratio. The rear carrier is not available and there is no mounting preparation for it on the bike. I made it myself..

Thanks for your reply. Yea, I know the mechanics behind gear ratios versus torque, RPM, Top speed, etc. my question was more to better understand why did you change from 48 teeth to 45? But if you say there's a big diference in torque it makes sense... One last question, with the Bore Kit upgrade, did you make any other changes, like intake, engine maping or exhaust? thanks

@@victoremanuelnunes3824 I changed from 48 to 45 mainly because the maximum speed was too low. (I also drive on asphalt). With the increase in torque (280cc kit), there is no need for such a reduced gear - 1st gear was already too slow for steep hill climbs. No changes on intake/exhaust, only ECU remap for 280 kit (provided by manufacturer AJP).

Magura kit

About 28 HP (250cc) and 31HP (280cc). No riding mode select. Wheelie is not a problem (it goes on every bike). I tried on 1st and 2nd gear. It depends on what speed you want to try. In the balance point, the front wheel is very high and I have to sit very far back (because the bike has a bigger wheelbase). The difference between the big bore and the 250 is big - a completely different bike..

About 28 HP (250cc) and 31HP (280cc). No riding mode select. Wheelie is not a problem (it goes on every bike). I tried on 1st and 2nd gear. It depends on what speed you want to try. In the balance point, the front wheel is very high and I have to sit very far back (because the bike has a bigger wheelbase). The difference between the big bore and the 250 is big - a completely different bike..

About 28 HP (250cc) and 31HP (280cc). No riding mode select. Wheelie is not a problem (it goes on every bike). I tried on 1st and 2nd gear. It depends on what speed you want to try. In the balance point, the front wheel is very high and I have to sit very far back (because the bike has a bigger wheelbase). The difference between the big bore and the 250 is big - a completely different bike..

I haven’t learned how to wheelie properly yet. 1st gear for me is too short. Also how much hp is the 280cc?

@@giovannimoras9204 283cc power see above - edit. Slow wheelie in the balance point is most difficult, I'm just learning too.. :)

​@@enduroonroad6896how often do you Change the oil? Is it reliable ?

Let me reply to myself.. I saw in some other vid 70 kms offroad, around 100kms on road.

onroad consumption about 4,5-5 l/100km, offroad ca 5-5.6l/100km, tank 9.5l

100-110km/h no problem if corresponding sec. gear ratio, on the video I have Sec Gear Ratio 12/42T, from factory was SGR 12/48T. I made my own carrier, the screws in the plastic tank can be used, but they must not be subjected to tensile stress (the carrier's construction must be suitable)..

@@enduroonroad6896 hello That looked like a fun trip out. Old video but worth a try. How did you find raising the gearing? Did it make the bike noticeably more relaxed for longer faster sections? I recently got to try the bike and really liked it but felt that it would need slightly higher gearing for how I would mostly use it. This would be a bias toward off road and gravel roads but unavoidably normal roads as well where you would be sat at 80 to 100kph for a few hours potentially. Cheers Paul

@@paulmullany7147 I bought a few rosettes and tried to compare. I chose the one that was most comfortable for me. Unfortunately, it will always be a compromise - the better on the road, the worse in the field and vice versa. There is something different for everyone and everyone rides differently. I recommend doing it the same way.

@@enduroonroad6896 Cheers. Id be happy with a comprise as long as its useable. You seemed to be managing great with gearing you settled with. Thanks for the help. Paul

about 30HP

The video served its purpose - I'm already in contact with the manufacturer. When the problem of cold starts is solved, I will make a video about it..

@@enduroonroad6896 i m having the same problem with mine. What can I do?

@@MrDabrucru After debugging the correct settings for all temperatures, I assume that the manufacturer will provide an upgrade map and it will be available from all authorized AJP dealers. I'll let you know when there are any results.

@@enduroonroad6896 thank you very much, for your input and for sharing your info with AJP.

@@MrDabrucru The cooperation with the manufacturer is now working well after some initial complications and delays. Now I am finalizing design/testing the correct injection values for the engine starting for various temperatures to make starting works perfectly every time. My SPR already starts like a Japanese motorcycle :) So an updated map with a perfect engine starting will be available from the dealers soon (I assume during February). I will post more details here as soon as I finish it.

through the non-reflective rubber labyrinth.

on road consumption about 4,5-5 l/100km =ca 180-200km (9.5l tank)

You have a 13/48 from factory?? I had 12/48. About revs - I think the reasonable maximum is ca to 6th bar over half on the revs meter (above the refueling symbol). It is ca about 8500-9000 rpm. Higher speeds are a suffering for the engine, cause large vibrations and do not have much benefit for performance.. If you have higher demands on performance I recommend the 280cc bore kit - it's a huge change for the better (a very noticeable increase in torque) =engine can then operate at low speeds even better than now..

@@enduroonroad6896 Thanks for sharing your insight that makes sense and will be enough for me on this bike. Mine came with 13/48 and I added a 46 and 14 to give me some options.

I'm also not a dwarf (have 1.8m) and I don't feel like on a clown bike .. :)) I think SPR is surely not small compared to other enduros. E.g. KTM 250 Freeride is a bit like a children's bike against SPR250 (probably mainly due to the smaller front fork). Before buying I recommend you a test ride on AJP and you'll have a clear immediately 😉

@@enduroonroad6896 Awesome dude thanks...aye...planning on test riding an SPR very soon, I live in Portugal so feels good to be buying local :)

The difference is big. I don't know the maximum speed at 48z. I only had it during Run-in period, so it was not possible to fully load the engine. At 42z is max speed about 120-125km/h. Sprocket 42z and smaller is nice on the road, but it's impractical in the off-road (too fast 1st gear, smaller torque). Currently I came to a compromise 12z/45z ..

Yes, the engine is the same but most other parts are different.. Primarily SPR 250 has a higher engine power (AJP distributor declares 30kW, I think really is about 26-28kW max.). The power difference is noticeable - for comparison I was riding PR5. This is due to better injection control (Athena unit) and a different intake tract construction. Other differences: - different frame and swingarm (improved geometry) - larger tank (9.5l) replaces underseat frame (rigid and robust plastic construction from Acerbis includes grips for lifting - very useful ) - quieter exhaust (even without DBKiller) - slightly lower weight (I don't know the exact number) - better on-board indicator (incl. r.p.m. meter, fuel gauge) - LiFePo battery - more intelligent saddle removal (hand lever lock) - good plastic protective engine cover - radiators side reinforcements - closed cooling circuit with expansion vessel - flexible LED turn lights - a little better design (my opinion) Maybe I didn't forget anything ..

I am going to see it maybe next week to my area dealer, i am really interested, i think are affordable bikes for a soft enduro.

Stock exhaust w/o DBK (nevertheless is quiet - audio in the video is recorded directly from the exhaust). After almost 5000 km on the road/offroad (50/50) I must admit that the bike is very durable and reliable. I appreciate perfect ergonomics, narrow construction, sufficient power, abnormally robust construction of the handlebars, frame, rear+front forks and engine while small total weights. This has now been confirmed (unfortunately). After hard crash I am totally scrapped but my bike has only a broken mirrors, scratched front shield, mudguard, handlebarguards. Breaked speedometer only. (falling the front wheel into a large hole during a fast downhill - front shock absorbers on the stops - I frontflip over the handlebars, my bike too frontflip over the handlebars). So, I do not regret the purchase SPR and I have no reason to change it for another.. As an alternative to AJP I thought about Yamaha WR250R, but now already I do not (more weight,less power,impossibility of street legal use in Europe, more expensive). Here is My subjective summary: POSITIVE - Easy and cheap maintenance (3 washable oil filters in the engine, washable textile KN air filter) - Sufficiently large oil fill and therefore longer oil life - Proven engine - the same engine is in many motorcycles, including eg GasGas, FB Mondial - Enough power and good throttle response throughout the rev range (Athena GET ECU is really very good!) - Very good ergonomics (mutual position handlebars - footpegs - saddle) - Geometrically useful narrow construction - several times, when I fell, all side plastics and radiators were left without contact with the ground (it doesn't look like a coincidence..) - Light weight - Small but good usable H4 headlight - Nice and highly luminous LED flashers - Speedometer+tachometer+fuel gauge - Good cooling - it does not overheat even at high temperatures and high engine loads - Very strong and well shaped plastic tank from Acerbis - Incredibly durable plastics (all) - repeatedly tried in practice.. - Very robust construction of the engine (massive output sprocket shaft, big clutch, very resistant shift lever and an overall good feeling of shifting mechanism. - Quality and very durable wheel string (rear wheel has a conical) - Low center of gravity and very good overall balance of the motorcycle (It behaves very well in the air) - Footpegs - perfect, wide, non-slip, folding and very well placed - Handlebars - well shaped and again incredibly durable (Reicon) - repeatedly tried in practice.. - Protective plastic under the engine - it works flawlessly and has not cracked yet.. NEGATIVE - Clutch lever (mechanical) - total low cost shit - disgrace for manufacturer - goes hard, poor cable guidance (cable made a groove in outlet, after about 4000 km broke away from the cable end roller). Solved by a Magura hydraulic clutch.. - Leaking air filter mount- For solve I had to reshape the plastic spacer. (AJP dealer was informed, so manufacturer perhaps it will eliminate this manufacturing imperfection) - Comical sound effect of engine kickback to the airbox when the engine is loaded at low-medium revs (Solved by soundproofing the entire airbox - sound disappeared) - Impossibility of mounting the carrier (I had to make a my self carrier with an auxiliary frame) - Mirrors - ugly and low cost, totally unusable shit - solved by folding mirr. from VICMA. - Front brake hose too short - still interferes with the ignition key or speedometer display - if it was 10-15cm longer, it would be ok.. - NEUTRAL pos.- it is harder to find, it is easy to skip (It's not a big problem, but sometimes it's a little annoying) - No thermal protective shield on the exhaust elbow - Saddle - less comfortable - more racing than travel - Design - from my point of view decals are not very nice, ugly red metallic color of the frame and red CNC parts - but it's a matter of everyone's taste.. Fortunately, it can be pasted over..

@@enduroonroad6896 thank tou for tour time!! Could tou tell me what was the price for megura clutch and how does it perform in practise?

@@MERMBRAMA Magura costs around 2500 euros, installation approx. 15 minutes, works perfectly - absolutely no problems. Highly recommended to install..

@@enduroonroad6896 2500eur? Must be a mistake right? You baught one from ajp parts?

@@MERMBRAMA sorry - 250EUR . So far I have not bought any parts from AJP, everything has survived. Magura can be bought anywhere just like a speedometer (Kosso)

thanks