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Thank you!

Thanks Momma! Love you! ❤️

I’m sorry, I didn’t keep a parts list for everything. It shouldn’t be to hard to look up though. Googles your best friend

K6035 on the lowers and K6034 on the uppers. I just typed in Impala HD balljoints on EBay and it came up as a set 👍

Thank you! The plasma is the Miller 625 and the welder is the Miller 212; it’s the same as the 252, just the older version.

The front ones, about 2-3K. The rear ones have been on two summers so far; got another summer left on them. The front’s would maybe last longer; if I could keep my front end alignment up to date lol

@@vencilldavid damn, thats not alot lol. Im thinking about buying a 93 cadillac with switches here on offerup for $8500 but trying to drive it often. Seems like ill be thinking about it lil more😂

@@vencilldavid thanks for response by the way

Thank you! Just trying to get better! 👊🏼

Thanks Momma! Love you! ❤️

Thank you! Just brushing up on my skills before doing something much bigger!

Look like you got it down !!! I need to make time to practice and sharpen my skills

For sure! It’s definitely time consuming; especially in the learning/practicing process!

Yes I have found that out. Very time consuming and patience is important.

Thank you! 🙏🏻

Sorry for the late response; mine is not fully compressed when fully locked up. If you’re looking for the best way to measure for a slip yoke, this video helped me th-cam.com/video/aOcw-cmVlBY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZBfSDJ6bVhsxYXj-

There was a guy I found on Facebook a long time ago; he doesn’t have an account now. But he took my old ones and made these out of them. I’d suggest putting the tweeter on the bottom of the mid. He just used wood and fiberglass to make them. Then I had them wrapped in the same leather as my interior

I’m running 12’s in the rear. Three pumps, two to the rear and one to the front. Power ball coil over. Six Odyssey batteries; three in each corner (I believe they weigh more) frame wrapped in 1/4”.

Mine is the Miller Spectrum 625 X-Treme There lots of cheaper ones that would work just fine though

I’m 💯 sure that you could! It might not be perfect the first time; but I guarantee it will get better with each go at it! Thank you for commenting; I appreciate the compliment and support 👊🏼

Thank you! 👊🏼 it took a lot of work to get it this way for sure!

😆😂🤣 oh its got power steering; but the hydraulics keep her from wanting to drive it!

Thank you! 👊🏼

@@vencilldavid just being honest my brother

Awesome! This is my 65! I had a 61 convertible that was really rusty I bought when I was like 17. I didn’t think I’d be able to do the restoration myself.. always regret selling that car

I don’t have a trailer; and it’s almost four hours from me. So unfortunately I don’t make it up there to often. I’d trust my car to make it; but there’s no room for a spare

@vencilldavid if you ever do come up or plan on it get ahold of me. Our (SocioS C.C.) picnic is Oct.5th. Lot more cool stuff between now and then.

That would definitely be cool! I’ll do my best! Thanks

Thank you! It was definitely worth all I learned from it. I might even do another.. but not right away haha

I agree! Unfortunately I had bought the 14’s years ago.. maybe when I upgrade!

Thank you! I thought it came out amazing too! But this video jut kinda died with hardly anyone watching it lol I guess that’s just how it goes sometimes 🤷🏽‍♂️

Thanks! I’ve been putting some good mile’s on it for two years now with no major issues! Definitely nicer than when I was working all the bugs out 😆

I’m sure it will some; but, the original lasted since the early 60’s at like half the thickness. So I’m sure it’ll be fine for like two lifetimes

The only reason you’d want to go to this extreme on a frame would be if you’re going to put hydraulics on it and plan to do some hopping with it. I know on some race cars/trucks they do reinforce some of the stress points; but I don’t know a whole lot about that. If it’s just for a truck you plan on fixing up; you might find a nice rust free one and clean it up and weld in all the spots the factory skipped on. Then paint or powder coat it.

You definitely could have stick welded it; from what I’ve researched, you could mig, tig or stick weld them. I think the mig is just the easiest for most non professionals. Yeah, I knew the c clamp was gonna get ruined by taking it past its limits; but I had already planned on turning it into a “frame tool” with the small hydraulic porta-power body-shop tool. The c clams are cast iron; so I did have the guy at the steel supply use a stick welder on that. I live in southern Missouri; so I definitely feel your pain with the rusty hoopties! 😂 thanks for commenting; I appreciate the input.

Bahahaha! 😆 for real! I can’t wait for my brother to come over and help me move it so I can finally really clean out my garage! Thanks for commenting, I appreciate the support! 👊🏼

I don’t know a lot about the Lincoln frame swaps for the turtles. I did watch a video awhile back that “RJ Tickler” posted explaining some of the differences and things you’d have to change. It’s not super detailed though. I hope this helps, here’s the link 👇🏼 th-cam.com/video/oNcpfE7DBCc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=R0R8G2b3EGw-GCi-

@vencilldavid yes I watched that also several times. Not much information and I sent him a message. I hope the body mounts stuff like that are in the same spot I got my 96 today frame car had the 2005 4 months

I would think they were in the same place; since people are swapping those frames out and making them work. But I’m definitely no expert on the subject. Maybe see (and you might have already) see if there’s some FB groups out there on the bubble top Lincoln’s and ask around. I know there’s a “frames and suspension” group; I bet some people there have done it before.

Yes I'm inn those groups also no real help everyone holding information that crazy suppose to be supportive

Damn, sorry to hear that. Yeah I try to share everything I learn. That’s how we keep the lowrider thing going forward. Well I’m willing to bet the frame holes are the same. You could take some measuring tape and check; but I bet they’re the same. And if not, you could ether cut off the other mounts and use them or drill the new mounting hole in the one you’re gonna use.

Thank you! I believe I saw a video by @gemcitywelding that showed/had where to get the parts to do it that way 👊🏼 You’ll have to look it up unfortunately; I can’t remember exactly what video it was. Hope that helps 👍

You’re welcome! I clamped the belly in about 1/2 an inch. There’s a brace inside the belly for the motor mounts that won’t really let you squeeze past that. Which is fine because you wouldn’t ever need too. Hope that helps 👊🏼

@@vencilldavid thanks bud. I'm gonna be starting this in a few weeks.

It’s a ton of work; but totally satisfying each day!

@@vencilldavid looking forward to it. But debating if I should buy a pre-cut kit or not. I do have the tools, but want to save time

In that case; I would say I probably could have done it in half the time if I had bought a kit. Making the templates, cutting them out and cleaning them up was very time consuming 👍

Awesome man! I’m happy it helps out! Appreciate the comment 👊🏼

Thanks man! I follow your channel too! Keep putting it out there; the lowrider community needs more “build content” Finished rides are fun to watch too; but the process is what gets us there 👊🏼

@@vencilldavid Absolutly! Thanks for watching. I appreciate the kind words. Keep up the great work!

Definitely!

Love you Momma! ❤️

Thank you! I try to keep the good ones coming! 👊🏼

Thank you! Me too!

Thank you! You can find him on IG; adexhydraulics, I don’t give out anyone’s personal phone info unless they ask me too.

@@vencilldavid yea, he doesn’t answer on ig

Yeah, I’m not quite at the stacking dimes level yet; but definitely getting better! Thanks for commenting! 👊🏼

@@vencilldavid that's ok you did a awesome job with welding!!!!your welcome 🔥

Thank you! 👊🏼

Thank you! It’s definitely gonna get the job done

I’ll start by saying I’m not an expert; but I can tell you what caused mine to burn up. I had a solenoid that hat was stuck open; it was grounding itself out and sending power (more than 24v) to my switches; it sent the he power back to the dumps even when my ground was disconnected. I just replaced that whole bank of three where it had the one that was stuck open and it fixed the issue. Of course my candle was just burnt and I had to replace it. But I haven’t had an issue since. I put the inline fuse going to each dump to keep it from happening again. Another thing you might check is your switch could be getting stuck in the open position when you’re dumping it; you wouldn’t notice and it would keep a constant 24v going to that dump and burn the candle. I hope that helps. I had never had anything like that happen before ether; it’s super stressful for sure. Make sure you check all your grounds too; that can also cause issues with it. Let me know what you find out

@@vencilldavid yeah I’ve checked all the grounds replaced all the switches switch cord etc works fine on 48v but when I hit my hot/hop switch instant fire…… but I’ll let you know when i figure it out

Did you ever find out what was causing it?

@@vencilldavid no but everything is new except my batteries they all read good but I’ve read that batteries can internally ground them selves so that’s the last thing to replace gonna do that this week.

Dang, I was just wondering. Well, at least it can only be one of the first two batteries causing it if that’s what it is.

For real! This frame game ain’t no joke haha

I went back and forth with it; In the end I just decided to go without. I think if it was a year with some fins I would have went with dual antennas

Or maybe you have to have the bolt in the yoke hole before installing the u joints so it's just ready to thread on the output shaft?

You’ll need to take the drive shaft off to get the driveshaft made with the slip yoke welded and balanced. When you’re getting that done; you’ll take the yolk off the tail shaft of the transmission, drill and tap the output shaft then. Clean it up, put a new o-ring on it slide the yoke back in (if it doesn’t already have a hole for a bolt, drill one out before putting back it) then bolt the yoke to the transmission tail shaft. Your driveshaft will already have the ujoints pressed in; you’ll match it up and bolt/tighten up the two u-bolts to the yoke. If you’re not sure here’s a good video on how to measure for your slip yoke/driveshaft for when you get it put together. th-cam.com/video/aOcw-cmVlBY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9y3IDjoQ6IlQGOM_

Thanks for the reply. My issue is not with building the driveshaft or measuring, that is all understood and mine will be a little different with the slip at the front instead of rear. Anyway that doesn't matter. My only question is how once the yoke is pushed into the tranny how you would get a bolt on the end of the yoke. If the u joint is on the yoke there is no room for a bolt to fit up in there. So you're saying have the yoke bare, bolt it on to the output shaft, then bring the driveshaft up with the u joint and press the u joint on to the yoke that is bolted on to the tranny. That would work it's just a bit of a pain to press on u joints while the yoke is on the car.

Ok, I believe you must have the “press in” ujoints. On mine I’m using the “snap ring” type. I believe that’s where we’re different. But yes, I would definitely have the yoke coming of the the output shaft bolted up first; there wouldn’t be enough room with the ujoint attached. Hopefully that helps

Thank you! Love you Momma! ❤️

Thank you! 👊🏼

It definitely was! It only lasted about 15 minutes

Thank you! 👊🏼

I bought this one off a dude that was making them; unfortunately he passed away. I would think someone around would make them though; they’re awesome!