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You're right - I could have unscrewed the aerial first - but I would still have to lower its base and thread it from the bottom. It would have made it a bit easier but this was not too bad!

I am not sure where you found them for $300 - The lowest I found 3 years ago was for $4,,000! Not to jinx it, mine is still working as new!

the information you're providing is not enough for me to make a good guess about what is likely happening. You may have a short, or water leak etc.

You can easily check if your float switch is function properly. If you have a multimeter, you can check for continuity (when you have the unit disconnected from pipes and electric) by flipping the unit upside down (the level of the float switch "close" mimicking the float induced by water. If you get continuity with multimeter, then the float switch is ok. Keep in mind that in the end, one of my issues was not only the float switch and the leak, but also that the thermal switch was busted. I eventually shorted the thermal switch - it has been working fine ever since!

@@nesnas I was able to fill my tank through the drain. My switch is good when there’s water in the tank. The system works fine and it produces steam until it shuts off because no water is getting into refill the tank.

@@__Just_A_Guy__ seems like an issue with the water inlet ?

What position is service position?

Thank you !!

Thanks. I agree. That's how I first noticed the issue since when I used to press the reset button and the pixels would flicker in and out. But honestly the factory soldering job was in my humble opinion sloppy - likely a semi automated process with minimal flux/solder. I was generous with flux/solder and made sure I don't have to do the job again (I followed this up with another video after this in which I soldered all 45 pins). It has been perfect since (fingers crossed)!

Internal battery is dead and powers off and does not recharge. Thus preventing any operations once the car power is removed to convert to 5V .

Make sure to check all the bulbs. It is hard for me to predict why your clusters is all dark. There are schematics of this harness that show where the 12 V leads go in and you can simply connect it to power outside the cars. Others have done that before.

Thanks for your feedback. I agree and the solder connection, from what I see from others, seems to be the most common issue (possibly from constant pressing of the reset button). The first time I noticed this was when I pressed the button the pixels would flicker in/out.

You sir are a legend. This should be the first video that pops up for this issue. And the only one! Cheers!

Any rubber gasket would do - I suggest you measure the thickness of your old one (most likely 1/8"). Here is an example: a.co/d/7pMNjbw Then you would need to precisely cut a similar opening to your old gasket.

@@nesnas thanks 🙏🏻 appreciate the help

No such thing as too much safety. Last guy to get injured or killed! I'd call that, smart.

Make sure you use the Redtiger F7N hardwire kit and test it before you install it. Make sure you also have the correct microSD that has been formatted in the cam. Turn off the cam and turn it back on this will engage the parking mode (if install correctly). The first time I installed, it also did not engage the parking mode until I turn it off and then on.

Thank you so much ! Good luck with it.

Thank you for supporting words. I bought the float switch (this is the safety plastic switch with the electrical contact) from amazon: www.amazon.com/dp/B009094IPA?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_BR51WCYSP2S0FFVNJAS1 You can also find parts at Grainger (if you have a local store near you or online). It seems like you have a problem with the water inlet float valve. When you have the unit apart, you can test it by lifting the ballcock (big metal floater) and the water should stop flowing in. If it does not (or if it leaks a bit), then that would explain why you are getting water into your shower through the steam head. The water level in the unit must be well below the steam pipe outlet, but if water keeps flowing in, then it will start spitting into the shower. Please note that if the unit is not run for several weeks, sometime water condenses into the cooling steam lines, and when you start the unit again, the heat and pressure build up will eject this water with gargling sounds into the shower before steam comes out - but this is normal and temporary (10-15 seconds). But it seems that you are having water dripping out constantly. I wonder if there is an adjustment you can do so that the water stops flowing into the unit at a lower level (just like the adjust on the toilet float valves).

@@nesnas Thank u for all the Info 🙏🏻🙏🏻. Yes we have a Gringer in town. I will check with the and see. FYI, I took the unit apart, and seems like the float rubber stopper is getting old and not stopping the water completely. Not sure if I can just get the rubber piece or have to replace the entire float? Unfortunately, there are no adjustments or any kind, its OFF and or ON... Also, the tank is FULL of lime and scale. not really sure how to get it off. I have soaked the tank in white vinegar for 1 full day, and with zero result. How do you get all the lime off, its all over EVERYTHING inside the tank???? (Thank god, NOTHING is leaking outside the tanks from switches, heating element, connectors...ect. all clean and leak free, its only on the inside the tank). Any input on that I greatly appreciate.🙏🏻🙏🏻 So I need a new float and while I'm at it, I'll replace the purge Solenoid too. So far, I ONLY found the solenoid online about $100, but no luck at all on a new float/valve...I'll take it to Gringer and see if they have anything like it. (honestly I just need the rubber water stopper, its so small).

@@appleSUX1 Sounds like you're making good progress. I am surprised that vinegar soak for a whole day did not take the lime and scale. You may want to try a product known by "limeaway" which is essentially sulfamic acid (NH2SO3H) which is more acidic and will have better solubilizing outcome. But please start with a dilute soak to see how much it could take off, and increase as needed. Avoid direct contact. And when you're done with these acidic treatments, please make sure you soak for at least 2 hours with baking soda to neutralize any residual acid (otherwise you will etch away at your metal - especially during operation - just think high heat, pressure, and high voltage). However, just keep in mind that as long as the lime is not blocking the steam outlet, then you should be alright with some scale deposit inside the chamber (you will not see it and it is not going to negatively impact performance). Also, do not use strongly harsh conditions since have some scale deposit is certainly way better than having pin holes due to acid etched metal (which could lead to water leaks - especially under heat and pressure). As for the rubber piece, you may be able to simply buy a replacement for it from Grainger or even a similar piece that would simply block the water flow. It is more likely that you would find a piece of rubber that could work than the exact identical float valve assembly. Good luck - I hope you get it fixed. Looking forward to your update.

@@nesnas FYI, Thanks to your AWESOME info, I was able to clean and remove 99% of the lime/scale. thank was super clean like new again (If i could show you how bad and thick was the scale that was collected for several years, since I have NEVER cleaned it or opened it till now, u would understand. We have the hardest water in the nation, Horrible). Anyway, THANKS a million for your video and info on how to remove the scale, HUGE HELP...THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU....🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

I have the same problem. Curious what you found to be the cause

Unfortunately since my closet is tight, I cannot easily drain it - the drain plug is on the bottom left underneath the steam outlet pipe. You can see it clearly at min 3:35 in this video - I have not drained it since I fixed it - still working great! At some point I may take the right side panel and check for leaks (hopefully none!)

@@nesnas So the drain valve is purely for maintenance purposes like a water heater drain?

@@cooper8318 yep pretty much. If you live in an area with high content of hard water, sometimes calcium deposits may form and clog the unit over a longer period of time. Occasionally draining would help a bit (if you have a shutoff valve installed - I added mine after the original install). This is similar to a water heater (which may be a bit more critical since it is a much larger volume of water and get daily use vs. the steam unit which is much smaller volume and sporadic usage).