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thanks! It's super fun to drive even though it's a bit of a handful for drifting

Stock for now. Hopefully next year I'll buy a cam and turn the boost up from 14 to 18 or 20psi then see what it can actually make for power.

Nothing I did to mine applies to a 72 as everything about the chassis is slightly different on the 74-80 cars. None of the suspension, brakes, motor mounts, etc interchange with the 71-73 cars and I have no experience with the early ones. I suggest joining the Pinto Car Club of America either on Facebook or on their forum at FordPinto.com

If you don't wanna go through the hassle of DIY and want a plug and play ECU - it is. It's a re-packaged MegaSquirt ECU that plugs into the stock harness with a base tune loaded on it and you get some extra support with your purchase. I wanted to rewire my car from scratch anyways as I had a hacked up Merkur harness and I'm OCD so I wanted to wire it myself and went with a generic MS2 DIY kit. I basically ripped off their distributor to cam sensor conversion with a heat resistant phenolic cap instead of the billet aluminum they used, and a different sensor. Ended up buying a trigger wheel from them because one of the guys saw a post I made on a MegaSquirt page and pointed out my trigger wheel design was too heavy and would end up breaking the distributor. Felt a little embarrassed that they basically saw me stealing their design but I was doing a one-off for my own car when I was broke and also used it as a learning opportunity - I definitely will not be making copies for sale haha. EDIS ain't a bad idea either. I ended up using a VW waste-spark coil pack from a 2.0 Golf. I initially put my MS2 in with the stock TFI ignition system and distributor, and it shat out on my first run at my first track day with it. Whether you go PiMP or a DIY harness for a generic MegaSquirt tuning the car is the same - so make sure you have a dyno tuner who's familiar with TunerStudio.

No radio at all currently. The 8-track I found turned out to be junk sadly. Just been doing the shitbox move of throwing a Bluetooth speaker on the dashboard

After this video my old turbo failed and now I'm running the Big R Motorsports Stage I T3 upgrade. It's really cheap for a decent turbo because he takes the imported Chinese turbos and rebuilds them with quality bearings and seals. He also has some nice street cams on his site. Highly recommend switching from the slider cam to a roller cam. I'll be buying one from him in the next year.

For sure. If you have instagram my personal account is @trashchester, that's the easiest way to get ahold of me. If not I can give you my email

it's an old shoddy economy car I pulled out of the junkyard, what did you expect me to be drinking?

@@SauceGarage u got me there! You win 🏆

@@SauceGarage put 289 in there and go from shoddy to much respect on the street

@@GODZILLASixxSevn how about I slap a cam in the 4 and crank the boost up instead? I'll save the V8 for when I eventually build a drag version of it out of another shell. Kinda want to do a mini Mad Max replica with the blower actually being functional

12 bolt out of a 2WD Blazer

Gotta get creative when you don't have much to spend

I highly suggest wiring up a standalone ECU from scratch, or if you would rather spend some money than do all the work yourself - the Ron Francis harness and Stinger PiMP ECU make it just about plug and play. I wanted to customize my setup and I'm cheap so I did it the DIY way...did take a good bit of time.

This car never came with a turbo so I had to build my own exhaust from scratch (and from scrap). 3" downpipe with the external wastegate plumbed into it, to a 2.5" with a Magnaflow resonator and a turbo muffler. Also moved the turbo forwards with a custom log header because the stock Ford turbo manifold puts it too close to the firewall.

Happens a little too often, this isn't an ideal drift car hahaha. Need to get my AE86 together and go back to using this thing for road racing

People are always asking me questions so figured I'd put all the details in one spot instead of repeating them haha

This is that exact motor but with modified manifolds (to fit in the much smaller engine bay) and a different turbo - completely stock internals though. Mine came out of a Merkur but it's identical to the motor in the SVO and Turbo Coupe.

It is overwhelming. It took me like 3 years to put it together in the first place and then I've slowly redone everything again as I learned from mistakes I made. It's a great way to learn a LOT - just budget for a lot more time and money than you would expect at first. And don't half-ass things cause they'll come back to bite you. I spent about as much money on the car as the one year I went to college, and learned way more from building the car.

Distributor to cam sensor conversion, I was broke and made my own cap and wanted to use a different sensor with a plug on it - but this is basically it: www.stinger-performance.com/store/cas-cam-angle-sensor-conversion-tfi I tried to make my own entirely and the guy who builds this kit told me my trigger wheel was too heavy and was going to cause the distributor fail and was nice enough to sell me one of his wheels after I completely knocked off his kit. I was only making my own and not planning to sell any but I still felt a little like an asshole when he saw what I did hahaha

and then I'm using a Bosch waste spark coil pack from a 2.0 VW: Bosch 032905106F

I built this as a road race car but my drift car kept blowing up and the Pinto decided it wanted to drift. I highly suggest you get some 100lb Landrum mini stock leaf springs and put a clamp on the front half, they work amazing in my car with KYB shocks. They offer stiffer ones, which I think would definitely be too stiff after driving on these.

Only the cam pulley is exposed now, but I ran it without a timing cover for years and never had an issue. It's non-interference so it wouldn't be the end of the world. I tried to cut a circle out of the top of the cover so I could get to the pulley bolts while leaving the belt covered but the plastic cracked

@@SauceGarage Well, at least one could inspect his belt regularly

@@budsodalsky it's been fine for 7 years so I'm not worried

@@SauceGarage Agreed sauce! Not looking to argue - I think its cool - OK?

@@budsodalsky I'm not trying to argue either just saying it's never been an issue despite how it could be a big problem for friends of mine. Would be afraid to leave the belt exposed on an interference motor for sure though - that could be a death sentence on a Honda or VW. Worst case for me is I need a tow home and to re-time the motor...whereas for them that could mean bent valves and holes in the pistons

It handles pretty well with the leaf springs but I've always wanted to do an IRS conversion, mainly so I can get the car lower. Might do that someday after I get a couple other project cars on the road

Wheels and tires are always changing. In this video I think I had 205/50R15s on 7s up front and 195/60R15s on 8.5s in the rear. I have everything from 15s to 17s between 7 and 8.5 wide, and have room for wider rear wheels when I eventually get some. Been running 195-205 front tires and 185-225 rears - mostly what I've been able to get for free from my friends at tire shops. I'm thinking for grip driving I'm going to want 215/40r16 fronts and maybe 235 rears once I finally buy new tires. Will probably just get a fresh set of 205/50R15 Falken RT615s to put on my 15x7 slot mags at some point, and continue running whichever rear burners I have mounted up. I have some nice 205/45R17 Potenzas mounted up on Mustang GT wheels so I might go back to 17s for this season even though it's a less retro look than the 15s and 16s. I have 8 matching wheels with 2 pairs of grippy fronts and 2 pairs of all seasons ready to go, so that might be what goes on it for the track this summer.

@@SauceGarage thanks for the reply! Do you have to run spacers on your 17s?? I been looking at foxbody 17 inch rims

Yeah you'll need spacers. My front suspension and rear axle are 2.5" wider than stock and the 17x8 +35 Mustang wheels just barely fit. They'll need spacers to look right. But with stock suspension you'll 100% need spacers period to get Fox Mustang wheels to fit.

@@SauceGarage thanks brotha

There's a pinch weld in the front wheel well where the cowl joins the fenderwell, you're probably going to need to hammer that flat for clearance. And maybe trim the bottom of the fender openings like I had to. With stock suspension you can't go bigger than 205/40R17 without rubbing. With my extended control arms I can clear 205/45s no problem, but I also offset the LCAs forwards for more caster and clearance.

I measured before I got this motor, and anything JZ ain't fitting without moving the firewall

It's at least got an identical block, crank, and rods to what came in the car stock and the suspension mounting points haven't been altered...so I guess it technically still is? 95% of the mechanical parts are from other cars or speed shops though

They have to come off again so I can fix a couple spots and sandblast/paint the inside. Once I do that I'll get them lined up properly