วีดีโอ

Go to the end of the video and there is a diagram showing you how to wire up external switches to start stop and go forward and reverse. Just before that I also explain you need to change some parameters on the drive to make the external switches work. Hope this helps?

Thanks, glad to be of help!

Hi Glyn, the original item came with a spindle and no 6 jaw chuck. Due to the price of 6-jaw chucks I went for an ER type chuck and made an adaptor plate to fit it to the original spindle and ER chuck. Since then I have made another spindle out of aluminium for a smaller size ER collet, as I found the big ER collet cumbersome for smaller drills. Fortunately the spindle is protected from dust inside the body of the attachment and so grinding dust hasn't so far affected the fit of the aluminium spindle.

Hi, sorry but I don't have a login it is a new requirement. There is a note in the section "Notes 1" saying "Please email me for the login details for the manuals." so I guess it is just a matter of waiting for the reply?

Yes the Brierley is a great tool and is dedicated to sharpening drills. I'm not sure that comparing a dedicated tool like the Brierley to a tool and cutter grinderlike the Clarkson, which can do many jobs, and with this attachment can also sharpen drills is a good comparison. For example the Brierley can't sharpen milling cutters or lathe tools. But yes if you are only concerned with sharpening lots of drills and can afford a dedicated tool, then the Brierley is a good way to go.

Thank you

Thank you!

Hi, I would always say give it a try and after a few iterations see what turns up? If you have the Universal Head then this may be the place to start as you can pretty easily adapt an ER collet chuck to fit one and it will cover a range of drill sizes. The difficult bit is the 2-flute indexing plate and indexing mwthod but the design is pretty basic. All the Clarkson original parts can be seen in the various handbooks on the Bedroom Workshop site as well as the angle, and setup. Hope this gives you enough encouragement to have a go! Best of luck, look forward to hearing your experiences.

thanks george

Right, I think I was lucky to find the one I did, even though I had to make the chuck. OK so if you mount the jig on the table, the centre line of the drill is inclined 18 degrees from the horizontal surface of the table and 35 degrees from the front edge of the table. I tried these angles a couple of times so these are my best estimates. Don't forget that the table is pivoted by 15 degrees in actual use so that it doesn't foul on the grinding head, as per the Clarkson manual. Also the entire jig rotates about itself to allow grinding of different point angles. Have a look at the Clarkson manual and the pictures at the end of the video for more details. Hope this helps.

The design of the grinding jig is such that it automatically puts the back relief on as the drill tip is ground. The back relief is 'generated' by a combination of the initial angle and the movement of the jig.

Hi please see the comments section I have recently updated it with details of the grinding wheel I use. Thanks

Hi David, thanks for the comment. The Clarksons were well made and solid and you can still find bargins. Obvious things to look for are the the cross-slide look for play left to right and back and front, if the cross-slide is badly worn then I would say walk away, there is only so much play that can be taken up. Also the spindle, ie play and noise but you can get replacement bearings quite cheaply. Best of luck!

You raise a good point. I used the smaller motor because I had it available. However I have since changed it to a 1.5KW motor to ramp up the power. Because the motor is now external changing it was very simple! Thanks for the query.

john allcote Thanks John, I didn't know I had a calming voice! That's not what my wife says.

Pete Wallace Hi, I agree they are good lathes it has served me very well. I see they have now added an inverter drive, so it looks like the right way to go! I also had a problem finding a pulley so in the end I made a rough one out of aluminium. It works OK but I will try to improve it now I have more time. It is not too difficult to put a key way into aluminium I simply roughed it out with an end mill and then filed it to fit the key. Hope this helps?

George Heg Managed it in the end, converted it to a standard SPA 13 belt and pulleys. Belts are cheaper too ;) think it cost me about the £30 mark to convert it so not too bad. Did mine slightly different though. Fitted mine into the back as per original. Tight fit + a bit of modding and it worked. Used existing button setup bar the stop button. Want a big one that I can fit on the front. It's like having a new lathe now all over again! I have pics if you want to see how I've done mine.

Pete Wallace Hi Pete yes please I would like to see what you did. Have changed the pulley on the spindle as well?

George Heg Shared them via google+ with you and yes I did both. was the easiest solution to be frank. Got them from my local bearing shop/specialist (Signet bearings www.signetid.co.uk/Home.aspx ) Only thing I need was a 4mm shim for the key. As at 40mm standard is 12mm, the lathe key is 8 iirc.

Fair point!