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@lawrencewinter thanks man. So far it's sitting on the shelf next to my vintage savage s-25. I'd like to run it on a proper track one day. Nothing local for this kind of on-road. Xray makes fantastic stuff, man those NT1s are epic. I bought the original xb8 in 2004, blew the barn doors off in the quality department. I actually bought this kit off Ty Tessmann when he was doing some shelf clean up. Didn't know it was his add on marketplace until I seen the DM reply lol.

Sounds like your throttle body may be causing your symptoms. Have you tried cleaning off the oil build up that happens from the crank case oil vapor vent system. Sometime you need to replace the whole thing as it gets out of calibration, its digitally actuated and not connected to your throttle peddle with a cable unfortunately. For my case it would stall at idle, had a pre-ignition nocking sound and check engine light, Related to the vvt system.

@@layback209fixorsmash3 I completely replaced my throttle body less than 2 months ago

I used a nimh flat pack, it mounts under the tank to the plastic skid plate. There is a small rectangle box between the tank and belts that the reciever fits in. You could also use a life flat pack that is similar size to the nimh pack.

@layback209fixorsmash3 thank you! I will check it out 👍

Haha, sounds like some fun conversations. What is that landing in my yard. Happened to us with estes rockets and free flight planes that caught a thermol.

Variable Valve Timing solenoid / actuator (VVT).

@@layback209fixorsmash3 Thank you!

Cool, thanks. I must not of seen it. The middle of the rod was wearing / interfering with the back of the crank counter balance (solid grove worn into the rod). Thought something was bent. Might dig it out of the parts bin and have another look. Cheers,

You could try cox international.com they have most of that available. The top end is a tougher though. Ebay is probably your best bet.

I'm not 100% sure on the ultimate goal, if it was up to me I'd fly it, however the hurtles to fully complete recertification is very very cost prohibited... and unfortunately this airframe doesn't fall into the "experimental" loop hole. If the volunteers recieve enough funding I think it's a worthy cause. They are also investing in restoring a Halifax bomber that is sunk by Europe's shores. Slowly recovering the wreck. There is a link to the bomber command museum in the description feel free to check it out for more info.

That's awesome, I was looking up ride along tickets for the Canadian based one. I've also been able to follow along with the restoration of this Lancaster from when the crew got the first engine running till just reciently last couple of years assembled the parts needed for number 4. Wounderful ributes to the 10k Canadian bomber crews that sacrificed for our freedoms. There was a B17 flying around north America this year from Texas by the time I was aware of it I just missed it.

I visited the Nanton museum and photographed this Lancaster in 2016. I don't believe the engines were operable at that time.

Epic that's so cool. Looking those one up.

I had the foamie when I was about 10, good times :)

Haha yuppers. 10lb non stretch fishing line. The original "remote control." Gotta use your muscles can't hide behind joy sticks, and less to mess around with. Little version of a 2-smoke 0.061 cubic inch.

Dang, it sounds like the variable valve actuator to me. If it doesn't start on the first go, try and restart with the trottle to the floor when cranking. I used to have difficulty starting when it was humid, or if I only drove a short while then had to re-start. It would eventually start if I waited l9ng enough, or if I cranked with the trottle peddle fully pressed to the floor. If it gets bad, maybe pull the actuator and inspect the screens to rule it out. Sorry to hear your having problems. I'm not a fan of this engine At all. I like the truck but not the engine.

Thanks. Is that the part in the video with the screens? If yes I replaced that last summer and it made a big difference. I think its the ThrottlePS. I need a scanner that acesses the TPS. It makes no difference if I push the gas pedal down. So far it usually restarts after it sits for awhile.

@tainchains gotcha, one thing you can try is a hard re-set. It's done by disconnecting the battery. And touching the vehical leads together. Returns the computer to baseline settings, then recalibrates. I think your on the right track. I've heard of tps issues as well.

That's for sharing that is very interesting. In my case it was independent of oil condition, didn't notice a difference between fresh and near service oil condition. It was just bad. For a little while I could limp it along by resetting the computer by holding the battery leads together to discharge the vehical. I like the truck but unfortunately this seems to be systemic with this engine from what ive observed on the forums...etc.... I'm not a fan of the engines

@@layback209fixorsmash3 the oil pressure is what it uses to adjust timing so when oil gets bad the timing goes off mine even dies out. Change oil and it’s like new. The screens could be clogged and also can be bad but most of time is dirty oil. Be careful because many oil change places say they use mobil but they use cheapest oil around

Haha, yeah kinda missing the best part, having to much fun to bother with angles. The jump launches them a good 25ft land on a downslope to a lower tier soccer field. Lots of fun when we get 4 going.

Oh man, thanks for sharing. Sounds like quite the flight and short experience but memorable. We have found that on 15% nitro at a mile above sea level, it basically is balance I.e. hovers or bearly flys.

@@layback209fixorsmash3 We still laugh about it today. Our group of friends couldn't quite figure out whats its really supposed to do, or what you do with it. One buddy surmised it gets tuned to hover and you toss it like a frisbee but there is too much exposed prop for that.

Yeah it's a classic example of gmc scrambling to cobble something together to meet a new emissions regulation or something... not a fan at all of this engine. Like the truck engine is POS

@@layback209fixorsmash3 I'd rather have the 3.6 VVT in it.

@🍄The Shaman from within 🍄 honestly I think a 350 or the 4.0l are way better for the environment than these things. They outlast the truck chassis... where as these just get scrapped... but why build that when you can sell more to the same guy no money in that lol.

@@layback209fixorsmash3 lmao 🤣...... The environment! I'm not concerned with that Government global climate agenda bullshit.

I'd like to, I even built a little foam board combat wing for the 0.020, however I don't think the timing will work out. It's kinda the dead of winter here and I'd like to keep these power plants moving to the next participant. Oh yes he certainly was, always one of the first to jump jn with sound advice. Helped me sort out my li'l Satan combat plane.

Let us know if it helps. In my case it was a faulty solenoid, the vent line was clean and clear. Others have had a loose intake manifold, it's plastic too. I'm not a fan of this engine design at all, its like something that was quickly slapped together to meet a new emissions regulartion or something. If I could drop a 4.0L HO inline 6 I would.

8/17/2023 replaced my intake manifold gasket. on inspection found all but 3 bolts were loose... i am still having rough idle so next will be inspection of VVT solenoid. *2012 colorado, owned for 10 years* @@layback209fixorsmash3

Awesome glad to hear this. 😀 sounds like your having a blast that's what it's all about. Cant go wrong with an NV. When you could get sig 15% nitro all castor 20% oil, I used to run that, then sig 1/2a fuel %25 nitro. The norvels didn't really seem to need much nitro vs the cox engines. Now a days I buy a jug of morgans backyard basher rc car fuel (its easy for me to get locally), and top it up with caster so it's about %20 oil and 16% nitro blended. Norvels run great for me on it. Morgan also has controlline fuel which is a 50/50 synthetic to castor oil blend. That's the exact break in method I use too. Get it up to at least 180f and then fire it up and try and keep it warm. I have a norvel break in video too you can check out.

Wow thats fast reply!! Thanks so much.

@Michpatriot no problem, check out the www.coxengines.ca forum too if you haven't yet. Lots of really good build logs and a fantastic sounding board for ideas too. The folks on there really know the in and outs of norvels too. Happy flying.

Haha, yeah, I'm glad it has a small tank. We usually 1/2 tank it. You can get it too hover but it's tricky.

Haha i hear yeah, this is the latest "sure start" style that has the choke tube, so you could actually prime it properly like a larger engine. Im also using the same kinda igniter as you would for larger engine sub-c nimh 2200mah. Gets you clean starts. And the spring starter on this style doesn't allow it to start backwards. Took me a while to discover all that

Thanks Michpatriot. The washers are more for a pusher set up or for use with an electric starter. It keeps the crank pin from being forced back into the back plate and the aluminum prop washer/backing from being forced into the crank case. 1 washer is good 👍, if you hand start you can get away with none. For normal operation the thrust from the prop pulls the crank forward. Some gap is normal, you can adjust engine timing by shiming below the cylinder, I've never tried. Usually the ball joint needs a reset to take the play out of the joint, that improves performance. You need a special tool unfortunately. Cox International sells them. You can check compression by turning the engine to top dead center and looking through the ports for bubbles. Some are ok 👍. If it looses compression fast its time for a top end. Glad to hear your restoring one. Bet it will run great. They are pretty bomb proof.

It gets the heart pumping, and still gives me the jitters even after about 20 flights on it. Always leaves me with that grin when it comes together.

Your most welcome, 👍. Glad your up and running again.

Your welcome. Those are fantastic engines. The Black widow is probably my favorite Reed Valve glow engine.

Haha, yeah necessary for this job.

$150cad for the unbuilt kit, $200 cad for the novarossi engine+pipe combo, $100 servos, $50 reciever, $20 battery so about $600 all in new everything.

I find the cox Reed Valve engines run very well on a standard cox 5x3 and ok on a 6x3 for slower flights. The apc 5x3 is great too but can be difficult to center it on the prop screw, you need to use a couples sizes of brass tubing to make a centering bushing. Yeah if you can center a drone 5x3 carbon fiber prob that would probably be best. But they are not rated for nitro so be careful and at your own risk.

Do you have the same charger? Depending on the model sometimes flashing means it's charging. Also could you give me a little more info on the battery your trying to charge? Sometimes the connectors get worn or dirty and don't make a good connection which causes greif. Try and clean them with some break clean or rubbing alcohol. If it's tamiya connectors Sometimes they open up to much, and don't grab the male end right. Use a pick and try close the femal end slightly to improve connection.

@@layback209fixorsmash3 my battery is a traxxas power cell and the charger is a prophet plus AC/DC 4-7 cell Ni-Cd & Ni-M11 peak prediction fast charger If that doesn’t help then can you tell me how to see what model it is or type of battery it is?

@@NukegamerboyRA ok here is a link to your chargers manual. Take a look through here. We need to figure out if its your battery or the charger thats the issues. Does your charger beep when you plug your battery in? Or when you plug your charger into the wall? Also your battery should say how many cells it is and what the chemistry is. I'm guessing it's nimh. www.horizonhobby.com/product/prophet-plus-ac-dc-peak-charger/DYN4036.html#

@@layback209fixorsmash3 ok thanks and it beeps when I plug in the battery but I’ll look through the manual!

@@layback209fixorsmash3 ok so I looked through the manual and I seen the charging times and I tried 2 amp and it still didn’t work and the battery is a bit beaten up so all the labels are unreadable so can I just count how many battery’s are in it? If not I can find a picture of the battery I have or a link. Thanks for all your effort!

I'm actually using a pressure bladder made from a piece of latex tubing that is inflated with fuel. It leaned out an stalled in this flight because of a head gasket leak, I lapped the head and solved the leak but haven't had a chance to try flying it since.