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The correct breather valve can only be identified based on the VIN number 🙂

So i have to remove the valve from the car and have to read the item number first. Then i must order from internet according to this number. Thanks for your help .👍😊

@@huseyinakbulut7322 The best way to find the valve part number is to go by the VIN number. This way you will easily order the valve without taking everything apart. From memory this valve is phased out from Alfa and the retail price was traditionally on the high end .

Ok! Thanks a lot.👍

@@pmrsfrThe couplers are designed as such in order to prevent them from coming off the radiator.

Great to hear!

You are so welcome!

If there is play in the bearing, then it is past its life.

@@ThanassisGritsopoulos thank you

To the English speaking audience: Since you mention that there are leaks on the radiator hoses couplers, then you need to check for corrosion coming from the cooling system. There are probably rust particles on the radiator ports and also on the hoses couplers where the o-rings make a tight fit. Sounds very unusual to me to be using new hoses/couplers and leaking so there must be something which prevents tight seal.

The videos should have worldwide audience hence English is the preferred language.

I have done such job quite a few times and i would say no less than 3 hours per side if everything goes smoothly (usually this is not the case). It is the tools that help you very much. Since there are many nuts and bolts involved, hand tools like spanners or sockets are tiring and really take up time. A few weeks ago I had to replace the control arms (again) and this time I used a MILWAUKEE electric ratchet which helps you very much. I was able to refresh the suspension in less than 2 hours per side. Without the electric ratchet, you need to almost lay down, crawl under the suspension, do/undo the control arm bolts, control arm nuts, caliper bolts, upper control arm nut, track rod end nut etc. The fasteners are many and working with them really sums up in time consumed in doing/undoing nuts and bolts. An important fact is also experience working with the Alfa 147 and the suspension in specific. If you haven't ever done such kind of work, be prepared to spend a few hours per side. My advise is to have plenty of time ahead (do not plan to use the car the same day) and with patience it is doable. Also note that when you start feeling tired, you better stop - being exhausted and rushing to finish will not give you good results. Just for the record, the Alfa 147 is a 2001 model and on average, the front suspension requires new control arms every 3-4 years. I think I have gained quite an experience in order to reduce the work time needed. Hope this helps 🙂

@@ThanassisGritsopoulos Thank you for the detailed response. I've done some suspension work on other cars and definitely agree with you on the use of electric tools saving a lot of time. I recently did a Ford Ka (new shape same as Fiat 500) lower control arm and rear shocks after having bought my first Milwaukee impact and it made it so much easier and quicker. I only have the compact version which is powerful enough to undo tight bolts but small enough to squeeze behind brakes for example, but I would still struggle to use it around tight spaces so might need to look into getting an electric ratchet before starting. I didn't know they go through control arms that quickly. Is it the bushes that give up? I'm wondering if polybushes like Powerflex would be worth the investment. This particular 147 has been off the road for 10 years and it has quite comprehensive service history from before that, but no mention of any suspension work, so I reckon it is far past its best being on (potentially) original arms and bushes at 23 years of age. It's also in need of inner and outer tie rods and a wheel bearing so I would be lucky to get it all done in a day I think. Your video and comments will definitely be a massive help in guiding me so thank you again!

@@birgitfischer8031 The control arms fail on the ball joints. The bushes can go bad but this will happen after the ball joints have failed twice or triple times! Just to note that a few weeks ago I had the lower control arm replaced having only 9 months of life on the Alfa 147. This control arm was an Original Alfa and it failed on the ball joint (severe creaking noise which means severe internal wear). You may also replace the sway bar bushes which are not easy to do with the crossmember on. You can drop the crossmember but things get more complicated as the steering rack is mounted there. What has worked for me is to have the control arms out of the way and using a drill, you can break lose the sway bar bracket nutsert. It is a job requiring precision but again it is doable. Just for the record, i have used numerous brands for sway bar bushes which all rattle despite using rubber lubricant. The bushes now used which do not rattle (lubricant is used to be safe) are by the brand MetalCaucho (MC). Since the Alfa 147 in question needs suspension, steering elements and wheel bearing works then you should count 2-3 days of work taking into account the available tools, the unforeseen implications and fatigue you will surely encounter! Hope this helps.

​@@ThanassisGritsopoulos Thank you once again. The sway bar bushes are probably due as well but I don't know if I want to tackle those, especially considering they might creak after all the work. Currently the whole front is quite loose and knocky so it's hard to tell where noises are coming from but I don't think they are creaking. Hopefully it stays that way.

You are correct in principle BUT in the case of Alfa 147/156/GT the bushes have a metal insert which slide on the bush. This metal bush is detachable and can also be lubricated to extend the bush life.

No, they are unique to the Alfa 147.

Usually, there are idling problems when this valve fails.

@@ThanassisGritsopoulos thank you

Not at all.

Don't think the evaporative solenoid valve can cause jerking. The valve allows fuel vapor from the tank to become part of the mixture on demand from the engine management system. In your case, my thoughts are beyond the valve.

@@ThanassisGritsopoulos thank you!

MAF sensor or check for air leaks between Maf and Throttle body.

Mediterranean climate. That's the answer!

Mediterranean climate is very polite and friendly to the underside of each car!

You will need to see the video describing the control arms replacement. In any case - no matter the car make - taking out the driveshaft involves removing the driveshaft central nut (wheel side) and removing the driveshaft bolts found on the inner CV joint.

Yes i already replaced the drive shaft on the right side. But on the left side i cant get it out. There is some kind of a ring on the drive shaft that hold it back from getting out of the gearbox@@ThanassisGritsopoulos

This ring you mention should be the circlip inside the gearbox. If this is the case you need to pull out the complete driveshaft including the inner cv joint. Usually a pry bar can do the job.

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