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Drew
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2013
1988 Peugeot Nice Bike Rebuild (Neo-Retro Build ? Restomod ?)
My friend gifted me this bike in “neglected” condition (I’m sure it’s original owner has been enjoying a carbon, electronic shifting bike for some time now), and I happened to have some parts lying around.
So I stripped down this vintage French steel frame, cleaned it thoroughly, and installed a mishmash SRAM mechanical 10 spd groupset with Red shifters; Force front derailleur, crankset, and calipers; and Apex rear derailleur with an 11-34 cassette. I had a set of deep HED wheels to throw on but had to cold-set the fame since it was originally 2x6 (check out the *italicized* "12 speeds" on the top tube! Fancy! I need to remove the Shimano stickers from the top tube now, too). A 1" threaded-to-1 1/8" threadless stem adapter let me put on a 70mm stem and carbon Ritchey drops. I was able to wedge some beefy Continental Ultra Sport III 700x28 tires on there.
I got busy and short on time (and just plain lazy) toward the end, so I didn’t record as much as I’d have liked on the build up. I also lost some footage of the bottom bracket and headset putting up a fight.
But now I’ve had it built for a couple of months and put a couple hundred miles on it. Overall, really happy with how it came together. Thumbnail photo by my buddy Jason.
So I stripped down this vintage French steel frame, cleaned it thoroughly, and installed a mishmash SRAM mechanical 10 spd groupset with Red shifters; Force front derailleur, crankset, and calipers; and Apex rear derailleur with an 11-34 cassette. I had a set of deep HED wheels to throw on but had to cold-set the fame since it was originally 2x6 (check out the *italicized* "12 speeds" on the top tube! Fancy! I need to remove the Shimano stickers from the top tube now, too). A 1" threaded-to-1 1/8" threadless stem adapter let me put on a 70mm stem and carbon Ritchey drops. I was able to wedge some beefy Continental Ultra Sport III 700x28 tires on there.
I got busy and short on time (and just plain lazy) toward the end, so I didn’t record as much as I’d have liked on the build up. I also lost some footage of the bottom bracket and headset putting up a fight.
But now I’ve had it built for a couple of months and put a couple hundred miles on it. Overall, really happy with how it came together. Thumbnail photo by my buddy Jason.
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Another *#%@! Brakes Video - SV650 w/ GSXR Brakes
มุมมอง 1063 หลายเดือนก่อน
Thanks for the feedback and advice, folks. It was suggested by a viewer (excellent suggestion @LucasStevens), based on their experience with the same brake setup that some air bubbles were getting trapped behind the pistons in the calipers and weren't getting pushed out during bleeding. Pushing the pistons all the way into the calipers and bleeding with them held in could squeeze out the bubble...
Bleedmaster 3000 or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bleed
มุมมอง 7793 หลายเดือนก่อน
Continued shenanigans with brake bleeding led me to creating a monstrosity. Follow along as I slowly descend into madness. Those of you who follow the channel know I've continued to have brake issues on Operation SV2, my '03 SV650. I made a pressure bleeder to make it an easier 1-man job by drilling a hole in the top of an extra reservoir cap and putting a Schrader valve in it to pressurize it....
SV650 Custom Headlight Work
มุมมอง 664 หลายเดือนก่อน
A slow, boring video in which I spent entirely too much time designing and 3D printing a jig to make mounting holes in a headlight that may not even get used on my SV650 project. With beer!
SV650 Brake Bleed Issues
มุมมอง 1384 หลายเดือนก่อน
Update: See end of next brake video Brembo BMC: motomummy.com/products/brembo-mkii-gp-forged-19x18-brake-master-cylinder.html Having trouble bleeding my front brakes on the ‘05 GSXR 600 front end on my 03 SV650. I rebuilt the calipers when I put this front end on, less than 3,000 mi ago. I rebuilt the stock GSXR master at the same time. I've bled and bled and bled and bled and....... Finally re...
SV650 Update Garage Hang
มุมมอง 2165 หลายเดือนก่อน
Turn signals, throttle cables, master cylinder, headlight. The slightly hungover ramblings of a madman. Links to come Insta @marteney.moto
SV650 Custom Arduino Gauges
มุมมอง 6293 ปีที่แล้ว
Instagram: marteney_moto I'd had a slight interest in learning what the deal was with arduino microcontrollers, and in the downtime that 2020 caused I decided to pull the trigger. I picked up a starter kit and ran through the basics of building circuits and learning basic coding, with the end goal of building a custom gauge cluster for my SV650 project bike. I spent most of the y...
SV650 GSXR Fork Swap Cost?
มุมมอง 13K3 ปีที่แล้ว
After doing it to my SV650, I've had a lot of people ask how much it costs to swap a GSXR fork onto another bike. There are cheaper ways to do it than this, but I'd advise rebuilding the components so you know they won't fail. Below is a list of my parts and the cost. Somehow my brake lines didn't make it to my spreadsheet when I bought them, but they are included below. Instagram: instagram.co...
Operation SV2 - SV650 Arduino Gauges
มุมมอง 4404 ปีที่แล้ว
Been working for a little while on an arduino gauge cluster for the SV650. I've been wanting to learn about arduino for a few years anyway and this seemed like a good opportunity. I'll do a more thorough walk-through later, once I get it fully functional. Yes, I'm aware I'll need to find a way to waterproof it. Yes, I'm aware it won't be DOT certified. Yes, I'm aware there's many, many amazing ...
New Tires on Operation SV2!
มุมมอง 2.3K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Picked up some new tires for the project bike. Went with Bridgestone Battlax S22's due to super great reviews both online and from other riders. They're a hypersport tire, so certainly more grip than I'll use in the foreseeable future, but MotoMummy had a killer sale on a pair, and Bridgestone is doing a mail-in rebate (at the time of this video's publishing) making them $250 including mounting...
SV650 GSXR Rear Wheel Swap Details
มุมมอง 13K4 ปีที่แล้ว
EDIT: The 14mm caliper mounting bolt (front one) does not need to be removed. The pin section of that bolt slides freely into the bracket. Remove the 12mm bolt (rear one), then rotate the caliper up and pull toward you and it will come out! Don't try to remove that bolt and strip it like I did on my other bike! Instagram: marteney_moto Phase 1 of Project SV2 is complete! In this ...
SV650 Custom Headlight Setup
มุมมอง 7724 ปีที่แล้ว
I fabricated a custom front number plate and headlight/front signal setup for my SV650. Headlights: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N19R89W/ Signals: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0776QC465/ LED signal relay: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ Grips: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BSODK/ QuadLock: www.quadlockcase.com/collections/moto-mounts Speedo app: apps.apple.com/us/app/sp33dy-gps-spe...
SV650 GSXR Fork Swap Update
มุมมอง 7K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Update on the (slow) progress on SV2. Went for a short ride today! Instagram: marteney_moto Build Inspiration: deuscustoms.com/bikes/model/the-beastie/ 04-05 GSXR 600/750 Fork Swap Parts Compatibility: forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=204773 Top Triple Clamp: www.topyokes.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr-750/ ProTaper Contour Bars: www.protaper.com/product/32/contour-handlebars/black Galf...
SV650 Random Bracketry
มุมมอง 3174 ปีที่แล้ว
Since I removed the passenger pegs, I needed a solution to hang the muffler. Also, I didn't have a setup to hold the front brake fluid reservoir. Instagram: marteney1 Inspiration: deuscustoms.com/bikes/model/the-beastie/ Galfer Brake Lines: galferusa.com/products/custom-line-builder
SV650 GSXR Forks Custom Upper Triple Clamp
มุมมอง 1.6K4 ปีที่แล้ว
I got in the top triple clamp I ordered from Topyokes.uk earlier this month. Looks great, feels beefy. I think it'll work fantastically. Now that I have it in, I can move along with the build, now that I know the lengths of brake line and control cables I need. Instagram: marteney1 www.topyokes.uk/product/suzuki-gsxr-750/
SV650 with GSXR Forks Steering Issue - Fixed!
มุมมอง 3K4 ปีที่แล้ว
SV650 with GSXR Forks Steering Issue - Fixed!
New Bike! SV650 Doesn't Start, Salvage Title, and More!
มุมมอง 1.1K5 ปีที่แล้ว
New Bike! SV650 Doesn't Start, Salvage Title, and More!
The Handbuilt Motorcycle Show and MotoGP 2019
มุมมอง 2825 ปีที่แล้ว
The Handbuilt Motorcycle Show and MotoGP 2019
Great job and a beautiful bike indeed! I would like a Peugeot too but it seems that only large frames show up here in Germany for some reason... 👍👍👍
Saved this video incase my issue persues, and replacing the clutch today and brakes should be here next week, hopefully fixing the slipping clutch on mine will eliminate the issue of it not wanting to go down gears easily all the time (maybe the clutch wasnt fully disengaged as it was worn) but if the issue persues ill be coming back to these videos as a deep dive into why 😂 thank you
nice video - easy to understand- thank you
Did this same job on a Freestyle. Solved the SES light, but it freaking leaked. Found the Motorcraft version on E-bay for $17
When I purchased my "fuel rail pressure sensor" this a.m. we had a laugh about how much of a mouthful it was to have to keep saying "fuel rail pressure sensor" for a single part name lmao
Now that the tire is closer To the chain way not going For 520 chain insted of 525 So it will not scrub the tire ?
Over 5 years later, I've had no chain/tire interference with the 525 chain. A 520 would be fine if you wanted to go that route for weight savings.
Hey I have the same issue, my gen 1 Suzuki sv650 won’t shift into second gear unless I play with the shifter for bit then it’ll pop in second, seems to be fine with the rest. I took everything off and my star is spinning like yours through all the gears while I spin the shaft with my other hand. I just wanna know do I still need to take the engine apart? Someone told me I could still have something wrong internally or bent shift forks but I’m confused as to why the star would spin through all the gears if it was bent shift forks? or something internal causing it? Please let me know what you think I really don’t wanna take the engine apart. Everything else also seems fine that I took out to get to this point
If the star spins freely and it goes into all the gears without problems just turning it with your hand, you likely don't have bent shift forks. The shift forks are pretty robust and it would take a huge force to bend one, and your hand can't put nearly as much torque on that star as your foot on a shifter can with leverage of the lever. I wasn't ever able to determine exactly what the cause of my shifting issue was, I assumed it was a bent shift shaft (the shaft that goes from the shift lever on the right, through the engine to work the shift star), and it was binding. That doesn't explain (in my case, or yours) why it would hang on 2nd gear and not the others. IIRC, the bolt that held my shift star in place was also slightly bent, which may have been putting some weird pressure/binding force on it only when in position for 2nd gear (or trying to move past neutral), but again that doesn't explain being able to move it with your fingers but not with the shift lever when all put together. I would do as I did, and reach out to www.mad8v.com/ or message on his instagram @mad8vcycles and see if he has a shifting setup on hand you could buy, and just replace all the parts on the cheap to see if that fixes it. If not, then you might have to split your cases for more thorough diagnostics. Best of luck.
Glad it helped! I think the next master cylinder I buy is going to be an Accossato 19x18. Each one is hand tuned to have as little free play as possible before they leave the factory. “Chasing Tenths” TH-cam channel has a great video on them and what creates that free play before the pressure starts to build.
Thanks for sharing the videos. Greeting from Bavaria/Germany from an SV650S rider. 👋
First mistake was looking on the internet. Second was not doing the line bleed. Third was not bleeding the master first. Vac bleeders are only good for getting the fluid to move past the hydraulic block that happens when new lines or rebuilding removes all the fluid. Here is what works the absolute best. Fill the res, bleed ONLY the master at this point. You will need some clear line, a Gatorade bottle or the like. Drill one hole slightly smaller than the hose, make a small pick or punch hole in the plastic neck area of the bottle, fill the bottle with a small amount of brake fluid, insert line into cap and all the way down to just above the bottom of the bottle. Attach the line to the master port, squeeze the lever and open the nipple, continue pumping with the port open. Once the lever gets pressure close the port, remove the line and stick it on one of the calipers and do the same, then switch to the other side. After there is no air at all (or very small bubbles) pump the master up by stroking the lever, and crack the brake line bolts open. Do this until the system feels solid. ( old worn pads will also cause the bleeding to not work as it should) If after an hour, if the system still feels soft, tie the lever back with a zip tie or something and let it sit. Now, the calipers you are using are well known to stick. Rebuild the calipers. The 19/20 19/19 masters have always worked well as long as you have done the math and the calipers and all are matched. The way I described the bleed is an old, real old way of bleeding, it is still the best way. I only use vacuum when it is a rebuild or replacement of major parts.
Thanks for the advice. Been working on cars and bikes for about 20 years, I've done all those steps many times, just like my dad and grandpa taught me on cars. I think the lever has spent more time zip tied than not, although that's a temporary solution since it just makes the air dissolve into the fluid; when you release pressure for any amount of time it comes out of suspension like opening a bottle of soda. I rebuilt the calipers and master cylinder, and installed braided steel lines, when I built the bike prior to riding it, about 5 ys and maybe 3-5k miles ago. I've bled by pumping the lever, and by vacuum, and back-bled by pushing the pistons all the way in (all of which I've done many times each), even bench bled the master. I thought this might be an easy way to flush it, as it's essentially the same system that dealership mechanics bleed and flush Mercedes and BMW brake systems. All things said and done, I think I've figured it out, working on a new video soon.
also to help with the squeaking of the lever, take the lever off, put grease on the bolt and area, put the lever back on and it will feel a ton better
I'm guessing you swapped out your brake lines or had the lines off from the calipers at one point? if you you're supposed to have the brake hoses dangle while pumping the brakes until fluid begins dripping at the end of the brake line before you put it back on
Yes, when I swapped the GSXR front end onto this bike I rebuilt the calipers and master cylinder and upgraded to braided steel lines (and dangled them until fluid came out before attaching to the calipers). That was about 5 years ago and I've continued to have to bleed them pretty much constantly since then. Like, I didn't ride it at all last year because I just felt defeated, no matter how many times I'd bleed it, with pressure, vacuum, gravity, reverse bleeding by pushing the pistons back in.... didn't matter, if it sat for more than a couple hours or if I tried to ride it the lever would just come back to the bars with no resistance. For 5 years and several large bottles of DOT4, like full flush many times over. I recently swapped the Brembo on, thinking it was an issue with my master cylinder (Suzuki did a recall on this unit and I assumed this one hadn't gotten swapped) with little improvement. I think I got it figured out though, new video en route soon.
I don’t think your problem is with the MC, I think it’s air behind the caliper pistons. When I had those calipers on my sv (05 gsxr600 calipers) the only thing that worked was pressing the pistons back in, then bleeding using the “open bleeder, pump, close bleeder, release lever” method. If not you’ll push air right back behind the pistons that can’t come out. Shoot me a message if ya need any help. I might be able to find the article I found maybe 3 years ago about the issue.
Thanks for the tip. I’ve pushed the pistons totally back in to back bleed it a few times. I’ll try pushing them in and putting a block or something in there and bleeding like normal.
@@drew657hope it works!
@@LucasStephens Seems to have worked! New video soon.
I’m in Austin too bro are you still here can I get you to help me with mine?
What’s going on with it?
@@drew657 well I’m new to the bike world but I’m hearing I need my carbs tuned I also need new fork seals
If you’re on (or want to join) Discord, there’s an SV650 server with a lot of helpful people. discord.gg/qW8qcuHP My bike isn’t carbed, without hearing what it’s doing I couldn’t tell you what it needs. Fork seals aren’t hard, just tedious. Lots of how-to forum posts and videos out there already.
did the gsxr fork swap change the geometry of your bike?
I don't have any exact numbers on hand, but IIRC, it *might* make it a little bit steeper/sportier (fork is shorter, maybe different triple offsets), but I'm not a good enough rider to notice any significant difference and I doubt if anyone doing this instead of just buying a sportier bike will notice either. The suspension adjustability does make it feel more planted though.
Will the vstrom cables work with the s throttle housing
Yes, the Vstrom throttle cables have the same attachments at both ends as the S throttle. The N throttle housing at the handlebar has a different attachment method, so it uses different cables.
@@drew657 I appreciate the reply I been building this sv up for the past year just trying to get my parts sorted out
I would try pulling a vacuum through the top of the reservoir m.th-cam.com/video/3vLwOkh55S8/w-d-xo.html&pp=ygURc2NvdXQgYnJha2UgYmxlZWQ%3D
Do you have the part number for the resistor used and did it work correctly
I ended up using this plug and play signal relay. Works perfectly. SCREAMFOX Lighting - Flash... www.amazon.com/dp/B0818YVY5W
I've loved binging this bikes progression man. glad to see she's still coming together to this day! I recently picked up a 07 sv650. the previous guy used it primarily as a track bike so there's things I'm not understanding regarding the wiring that looking at diagrams isn't solving. Some things to note first: I have the same brembo kit! It doesn't have a pressure switch so the blue and red wires are free hanging; front turn signals have been deleted and I can't find leads to plug new ones into. A LED headlamp was added but has its power running straight from the battery and has wires I'm assuming are used as signal wires going directly into the rear fuse box Head-low/high 10amp fuses. My tach/speedo/turn signal/high beam lights are not receiving power, however the green neutral/red oil light turn on...? Popping open the plastic back of the speedo reveals three free hanging wires, a yellow, WHITE/black, white. Two random plastic 2 pin connectors, both with a BLACK/white wire, one with a black wire and the other with a cyan(very light blue?) wire. I assume these were taken apart from the white connector that should house those wires + a brown wire, but cant find the brown wire nor can I figure out what that white connector would have even plugged into in the first place. I'm wondering if that white connector that I'm missing is preventing the speedo lights to work properly. It like a real mess to me since I'm new to figuring out wiring harnesses lol, and I kind of set myself up for more of a project then I anticipated. You seem a lot more competent with wire knowledge then forum lurkers so I thought I'd drop a comment and ask if you have any advise on how to solve that speedo problem!
I once bought a track bike with the intention to make it street legal. It's always more of a project than you think it'll be, and gets real expensive real quick. I abandoned the stock speedo a long time ago so I'm not sure about the lights not coming on. Sounds like the previous owner disabled them and only left the ones needed for the track. Although I'm not sure if having the lights in place completes a circuit to make the dash lights come on? I'm actually going to be working on it tonight so I'll shoot a video of the stock wiring stuff and shoot you the link to see if that helps. As much as it would suck to swap out, getting a stock wiring harness from a parted out bike on ebay might be a good option to start over.
SV650 Light Wiring th-cam.com/video/6lKz11_wYks/w-d-xo.html
Good luck with bleeding those brakes. I had that model gsxr front end on my sv and they were a pain. My running theory is that air is prone to getting trapped behind the pistons.
Glad to hear it’s not just me, I feel like I’m losing my mind with these brakes! Been looking at the same year GSXR1000 Brembo calipers that apparently bolt right up with SV1000 discs, maybe that’ll help
hows the sv man? its been 2 xyears
I've actually been working on it again lately after not riding/working on it much the last couple years. Working a lot and busy with life. I've been thinking about doing an update/work video though, might have to get one in the works sometime in the next few weeks.
Great video. It has helped an old woman out! New to the area and don't know anyone. I took mine to a 'recommended' mechanic who said it was the 02 sensor which he replaced. Charged me $150. About 100 miles later the engine light came back on. Took it back to the mechanic and he told me it was probably the catalytic converter, and he could just take it out and it would run fine. So, I took it to Autozone and another who told me it was the fuel pressure sensor. Took it to a different mechanic and they said it's the gas cap and fuel line sensor. They said cost would be $310+. Does the price sound reasonable?
I'm not a mechanic and haven't ever worked at a shop so I don't have any idea what a reasonable price would be. I'm not sure what problems your vehicle is having, but it sounds an awful lot like they aren't wanting to do any diagnostics and just want to keep charging you for parts until something makes it better. Oftentimes though, on these older vehicles, there are multiple issues, and whacking one mole down doesn't fix the others. When they replace a part they'll clear the code and the vehicle won't turn the light back on for the other codes until it's been driven a ways. Any auto parts store should be able to hook up a code reader to see what codes are being sent, and you can try to figure out what the problem might be from there. You can buy a code reader at the store, or online, for reasonably cheap these days, I highly suggest investing in one if you're driving an older vehicle.
@@drew657 Thank you!
I’m replacing my cracked fairing with one I’ve had painted and am now trying to reassemble the whole thing. Everything seemed to be going rather smoothly until I attempted to attach the bottom skirt which I’ve since found out is called the inner cowling cover according to the parts list. I think my main problem is I only have access to two hands as I can’t line up holes with holes and get the plastic on the outside that needs to be on the outside and keep the little tabs that hold it in place on the inside all at once. Couldn’t find any TH-cam videos on the subject either.
It's been a while since I did this, and I've since sold the bike, but I do remember that being a pain in the ass. I also never have an extra hand or another person around to help out.
@@drew657 thanks. I took it to the local Suzuki shop and paid them $50 for 15 minutes. It’s in and I didn’t break anything. Win win
thanks a bunch for the vid!
Do you have a list of all the parts you replaced?
2:47
I picked up an 09 for cheap because it won't go into or above 2nd. I have a parts bike that is an 02 (I also have a running 02) and am curious as to the compatability of all that hardware. Thanks for the run-through. I think I will tackle this. Or at least make a mess. Who knows.
I'm debating on buying a cheap 07 with the same exact problem 😂
I think the 02 is last year of the carbed version, right? Not sure if the shift components are compatible w/ the 2nd gen, but I think the engine was essentially unchanged. You could get on a parts fiche to see if the part numbers for what you're looking to replace are all the same. When I need to do that, I just poke around on my local dealership's parts page on their website, or Partzilla.
You will find literature stating to NOT use any grease in O2 sensor connectors, as SOME newer sensors get their biasing air THROUGH the wiring! Crazy right?
What about insurance as mod to bike ,
Excellent question. That will depend on both your country/location and your insurance carrier. If you're worried about it that much, best to ask someone who might actually know. Like your insurance carrier. Best of luck.
hi, sorry, I would like to make the same modification as you to my motorbike. Can you tell me where to buy the bushing kit or if you have the dimensions of the bushings and if I have to file the rear brake caliper plate, let me know thanks
Read the video description
Just so everyone knows, before buying any used components on ebay, remember that they're being sold for two reasons. 1-they're stolen parts or 2-they come off a crashed unit. Either way all components, axles, rims, rotors fork tubes, steering stems, crowns and main frames and tail section/sub frames should be checked for straightness from professionals. Dr John's Motorcycle Frame Straightening are the only ones I've trusted for almost 40 years. Dial indicators will tell deflection more than your eyeball. They have the tooling specific to all differences in any components. They are located in Anaheim, Ca. Be smart, be safe! One issue not addressed in this video is the speedometer drive. In order to have a functional speedometer you can't use a front end off any GSXR later than 1995 as the later ones take the speed drive off the counter shaft sprocket. If you do use a later one you'll have to drive the speedometer off the rear wheel, there literally no space on the GSXR front end after 96. Driving off the rear is possible but takes professional machine work as the axle may need to be modified, the swing arm may need to be modified, certainly some degree of fabrication expertise is required. It is not just a bolt on situation. Think and plan it out before jumping in, because it could en up turning your bike into junk and unusable.
Or OR the seller replaced with something better and doesnt want to keep stock of the old one.
True that one should check their parts, but actually, I know a few guys who bought old bikes for projects/conversions and sold the bits they didn't need on ebay... in fact often making a bit of money to fund the rest of the project on selling the remaining parts. That's actually another valid approach, if you have the space to store a half-disassembled bike until it's sold: Say you needed a GSX-R fork for this conversion, I'd actually recommend shopping for an entire GSX-R with "engine damage" - sometimes it's even fixable easy, so you may have an entire engine to sell off - of at least parts that are still ok, such as intake etc. And you can sit on the bike, maybe take it for a spin, so you can certainly check quite well if the forks are sticking anywhere.
Thanks for the video! Did you ever figure out how to fix the rear brake dragging? I did the same gsxr rear wheel swap, and I'm having exactly the same problem.
Been a long time since I did this so I don't remember exactly what the issue was. It works now. I had an issue with aftermarket rear sets causing the pedal to stick but that was after this.
loose the music pleae
So cool dude! Any updates?
Thanks! All Balls fork seals were garbage and blew after less than 1k miles. Rebuilt with stock and holding strong, but I don't ride as often as I'd like. Front brake discs were warped, replaced with newer ones that made the brakes better. Stock GSXR front master cylinder on this model was recalled, this one was apparently never fixed so it's got a really long stroke to brake pressure and has to be bled all the time. Will replace w/ a better unit when I'm able (read: do this to begin with). All great otherwise, feels much more planted than stock, especially once I got the setting dialed in.
@@drew657 yeah, you are a legend. Thanks so much for your detailed response. Really cool design and inspiration for your bike! I imagine if I just swap like this or had a project bike it may just have to be a situation where everything is bought piece by piece. Did you continue with the Arduino custom display?
@@forgiven88 Buying a front end piece by piece will probably be more expensive than picking up a whole front end and then fixing/upgrading the things that you need. I ran the Arduino gauges for a while, and actually had I working pretty well but being exposed to the elements, it broke reasonably often and I had to keep rebuilding it so I abandoned it. I eventually got a 3d printer and tried to build a case for it, but it turned out to be more than I wanted to deal with. Currently planning on putting a Motogadget unit on at some point.
Cool shit what are the links and companies to do this and how much
Read the video description
thank you fam!
This did not need music. Made is almost impossible to understand.
Indeed, but it was the style st the time. Let me know when you finish the time machine and we can go back and warn me.
@@drew657 lol I will keep you updated. Great build none the less.
Do you know what the tabs with holes on the steering head of the frame are for?
Between the forks? That's where the bracket mounts to hold the gauge cluster and front fairing.
I'm starting down the Arduino path to make a similar project for my 87 Hurricane.
Best of luck!
Where is 02 bank 1 sensor 2
Bank 1 is the side of the engine with cylinder 1, in this case it looks like it's the side closest to the windshield. Sensor 2 will be the oxygen sensor farther downstream in the exhaust, usually past the catalytic converter. Which is lucky, because it's easier to get to. www.fixya.com/cars/t25534919-firing_order_2006_ford_freestar
Do the front wheel also from an 03 gsxr 1000
Front wheel from a GSXR won't fit this bike. You have to swap the entire front end. See my other video. th-cam.com/video/Xr5IY9ObJbU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the vid!
Those radiators are advertised as having a higher capacity and they are thicker than a stock radiator. It probably cleared with stock forks but the gsxr forks are much thicker so now it hits. Stuff like this happens all the time when you are modifying bikes.
Awesome, thanks for the additional info! I did what (I assume) an average person would do for this bike and bought the cheapest one that fit, so hopefully this will help someone else troubleshooting a similar problem.
To anyone who doesn’t want to watch the whole video. It’s a bad coil pack..
Great video The front indicators on forks is something iv never seen. I like it but isn't the headlight shroud obscuring them ?
thank you 1 million, you saved me, I had problems in the 3rd gear, I changed the shaft, the star and the screw for the star, on v strom 2008 with parts from a v strom 2013, my luck was the sync forks warent bent,
Take the dog shit music out and reuoad, PLEASE!
Hey nice video! I'm currently working on my own SV 650 R track build with a GSXR 750 K6 front end. I also want a GSXR 600/750 rear wheel swap. I am able to get a nice GSX R rear wheel from a GSX R 750 K10. Does the K10 fit aswell or does it only work with the K6/K7/K8/K9's. Also what type of machining needs to be done to the caliper bracket and spacers cause I live in the Netherlands so I am not really sure if Zoran from TWF is a possible option for me distance wise. Really looking forward to your reply! Keep it up mate
I'm not sure if the K10 will fit, I don't know enough about the width of the hub. I mean, with enough machining anything can work, but I don't know if it'll work with this kit. I wouldn't think using Zoran to source a kit would be a problem, just might be slightly more for shipping. I'd reach out to him and see what he thinks, he's the authority. Hope you get your project going!
Seriously, this 'is' a great idea, and I definitely agree! It worked so slick. No pressure. No mess. It all went so swimmingly smooth. No leaks. No more codes. Thanks man! And, if anyone showed you this approach before you showed us, be sure to thank them too.😁!
Excellent!
Excellent video. Thank you! I have an '04 Freestar 3.9. Going to school online so I need to do the work myself. I think that I pay better attention to details than some of the shops. I actually really love this van and want it to last as long as possible. It is nice to see exactly where to go. I am sure it is a pain to get the camera in some spots but it is nice to see exactly what is going on and get pointers. TY!
They’re great vans if you take care of them. Mine had just over 275k miles when I sold it.