วีดีโอ

oh, thanks :) yes, lots has changed, you should get back in there and see all the other fun things

Aw, thanks for the encouragement, glad it was helpful <3

Oh good! I'm glad it could help in some way! <3

Aw, thanks for the kind comment, glad it was helpful in some way <3

Hey! thanks for watching <3 Sometimes the auto-generated patterns can still have really obvious tiling or seaming that the software is unable to fix. Until that feature improves, it would have to be fixed manually in an editing software....But it might be worth looking into other 3rd party apps/programs that auto-generate repeat patterns. I'm sure there are some great ones now...

I couldn't say 100% how designers feel in general but what he does is commendable/impressive in some cases--making sellable art out of "trash." Its not a new concept and he's not the only one do this but I'm sure he's lauded for his effort and message.

@@vanhertenouterwear that's good to know. Thank you

Understanding the explanation isn't dependent on you seeing my armhole seam. The physical demonstration is simply there to support verbal concepts. Thanks for the SUPER helpful feedback though.

@@vanhertenouterwear It was nice and clear. I did rewind and replay a bit as it can take me a few times of listening to grasp new concepts (I'm a beginner sewist) and I was making notes. The great thing about videos 👍🏻Thank you for your generous sharing! You said in earlier comments that the G,H,K,L,M,N measurements are standard from the book you referred to. If the arm hole lengths are the same on each side (A to E and A to F are the same) are the G,H,K,L,M,N measurements still as you shared? Or do those measurements only apply if the back and front armhole lengths are different? Thanks again : )

Haha

Do you have a reverse lever? See if it might be stuck in reverse.

Hey! Yes, I have definitely experienced this. So frustrating when you come back to your render after hours and the garment is on the floor. Anyway, one sure fire way to make a garment stay on the body is to use the "Tack to Avatar" tool. It lives in the same spot as the "Tack to Garment" tool. You can choose one or two key positions for the tacks so the garment doesn't look stiff, still able to move around the body enough. Another way is the "Attach to Measure" tool in the tape measure tool. You have to create a measurement on the avatar body first, then use the attach tool to make a pattern edge stick to that measurement. Also, if its a scenario where the neckline is wide and eventually stretches out when movement is involved, you can use the Elastic Property to make it stay the 2D line length. Just set the neckline on your patterns to Elastic ratio 100, or even 99/98. Hope this helps :)

If you mean the video is long, it's because I'm a teacher and know the importance of explaining the why's and how's. My videos are more for people who want to learn, so if you don't like it, don't watch it.

This method is used in Helen Joseph Armstrong's Pattern making book. I look at that for standardized measurements or custom measurements I've done the math for beforehand. This is an ultra standardized sleeve, so each person should expect to do some tweaking to get a perfectly fit sleeve.

Not sure I understand the question..

@@vanhertenouterwear like sew on a fabric without the razor cutting it off

@@deradaniels6068 Oh I see, well you would need a cover stitch machine or a serger with a cover stitch function. A cover stitch is the finish on the hem of your tee shirt or swimwear. It finishes the edge of the fabric the same way as the overlock/serger but without trimming allowing the stitch to live further inside the body of the garment. Otherwise, depending on the depth of the hem you need, you could just serge the edge of your fabric and then straight stitch the folded hem in a separate step.

@@vanhertenouterwear thank you so much

It is what it is...public universities

Hi! I see what you mean now, the video cuts off abruptly at the end. Thanks for bringing that to my attention :) But the main parts are still covered. For the Fill Tool, it's super important to make sure an appropriate weight and quilting distance are applied. Without that, there will be no fill effect. Remember to reduce particle distance for a more realistic/smoother appearance. Can you recall what is happening when using the fill tool?

Sergers can't be used for buttonholes. You'll need a machine with a specific buttonhole function, or you can finish buttonholes by hand. Bound buttonholes are particularly lovely, and the other way is hand stitched buttonhole, but take a long time to master.

I love everything about that! So glad it could be helpful <3

I'm so glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words <3. I'll keep an eye out if you have any questions during your patterning!

You are so beautiful 🌷​@@vanhertenouterwear

@@ashfakkapadi4535 that's very kind, thank you :)

Hi, I sell this particular fabric on the CLO Connect, otherwise CLO provides a spandex for free, which will have all the specs applied :)

So glad it could help! Thanks for the kind words <3

Oh, thank you for the kind words. I'm glad you got some use out of it :) This method was developed by Helen Joseph-Armstrong and taken from her pattern making book. It's what we use at University to draft blocks. The measurements used in this method are standardized to work for a "core" sizes, closer to sample sizes 4-6-8-10. So when our sizes get further away from that core, the less these measurements make sense for our patterns. Even if we fall into this size range, its typical to still need tweaks to the first draft. The best thing you can do is to sample your patterns. This is the most valuable information you can get when customizing a garment. While wearing the sample, pinch out the extra material at the top of the cap and transfer that omission to your paper patterns. And likewise, add to places where you need more material. I hope this help. Let me know if you have anymore questions <3

Aw, thanks for the kind words :) I glad it was helpful in some way.