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I wouldn't generally advise using Epoxy mortar for cracks unless they're very wide. Most epoxies take about 8-12hours before you can coat over them and 24 hrs for foor traffic.

No problem, happy to help!

Do you have a flake floor with a clear coat? If you have a pigmented top coat, tires can permanently stain the pigment. You can also try simple green. We've also had luck using WD40 in certain instances.

I have an epoxy floor with clearcoat

I have an epoxy floor with clearcoat the guy who put the floor in and says I should only use dish soap. It makes no sense. I spent $1800 and it’s very solid with a heavy clear coat.

@@jameshiner-rw8pu Here's a good article that may help you.. allgaragefloors.com/tire-marks-epoxy-flooring/

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 I appreciate you taking the time to answer. Product ordered

As long as you don't overuse the bleach, you'll be fine. We use bleach to clean our floors (use a cap full or two of bleach to a gallon of water) we've never had an issue. The top coat on your floor does matter though. For all our floors we top coat with a urethane or polyaspartic which is more chemical resistant than Epoxy. If you're using a cleaner and are unsure of how it will affect the coating, test it on a small inconspicuous area of the floor. A lot of people also use simple green to clean their floor as well.

Are you familiar with toweling? You could either use a self leveling product to fill the low spot and level out the area or you could use a mortar to build up the area and slope it away from the heater.

Thank you!

Yes you can use vinegar. If you're ever using a cleaner you're unfamiliar with just test it in a small inconspicuous area of the floor to see if it affects the floor.

Thank you!​@@columbusepoxyflooring7400

In certain instances we can if it makes sense for the customers use, but you absolutely should remove it if you're able to before laying the coating

Try to buff the floor using a white pad (3M Niagara White Polishing Pad 4100N, 20 in, 5/Case a.co/d/6vI2CdV) and see if that helps. We've done that before and it's helped to bring some of the sheen back.

Roughly $2.50-2.75 per square foot for a full flake broadcast kit.

Hi Bruce, you can use hyperbond. In the video we used hyperflex since it sets up much quicker. The polyaspartic we used is our 450 polyaspartic top coat

we use a 100% solids epoxy patch that is thickened up so it doesn't sag/fall when you apply it. In most cases its better to patch after you prep. You can absolutely make smaller batched. Try not to over lap too much though because the material will start to build up where you overlap and can show up in the finish making it look like theres a hump, or if your overlapping on the clear/top coat it will look extra glossy and thick in the areas where you over lap. Try to use the control joints (if you have them) as stopping points.

Yes, we normally install the walls the same day as the floor. You have to be careful working around the walls after they've been coated so you don't mess them up though

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400Hello what would I have to watch out for to not mess them up?

Try to make sure the epoxy basecoat is thick enough so it doesn't soak into surface too much or sag and run down the wall. You want to leave a film on the surface of the wall so the flake can stick. If it doesn't turn out as well as you'd like you can always put a clear Epoxy on top and flake it again for a more even coverage.

I'm our opinion the walls will look better because you can take the needed to make sure everything is thoroughly coated. You also should thicken up the epoxy when coating verticals to make sure the flake can stick amd the coating doesn't run down the wall

Thank you!

Make sure they use a flexible coating. They'll have to use a similar coating to the linex or the coating could fail because of the difference in surface tension. Potentially poyurea or a urethane deck coating

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you so much! Very helpful as I am just diving in to researching this. The Line X coating on my trailer floor although Very durable and waterproof- it is a huge hassle to clean and actually never looks clean. The rough texture allows anything to stick, Even with any kind of cloth, hard brush etc, it's just not wipe-able or really clean-able. Hence wanting a smooth surface that can be wiped and mopped with ease! I'd much rather have a slick surface and put mats down for my feet / traction then have a rough, tacky floor. Both of the products you mentioned will create a smooth / slick floor? Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. So appreciated!

@@kat4animals004 You can top coat it with a polyaspartic to help create a harder shell on the surface that will clean better. Polyaspartics also perform better as a top coat providing resistance to abrasion, chemicals, and scratching.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you!! 🙂

No problem, best of luck with the project!

As long as the tile is down well we prefer to coat over the tile. Removing the tile can create additional problems with different elevations around door jams, floor transitions and drains. Removal the tile also adds a lot of additional cost to the project and down time.

Dry dawn detergent or you can try this Epoxy floor cleaner.. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com/products/1-shot-epoxy-resinous-cleaner-erc Some spots are more difficult to clean. Certainly chemicals and rust can also stain the floor

I understand your frustration. If you want to make your cleaning a breeze, try using a spray bottle filled with hot water and some Dawn dish soap or a similar product like LA Awesome. Just spray a bit (or a lot) in the areas that need some extra love and let it sit for a while. After giving it some time to work its magic, grab your mop and get to it! You’ll be amazed at how much easier it is, since the Dawn will have done most of the heavy lifting for you. Happy cleaning!

It that case it could be a more porous slab. It could also be the coating was applied a bit thinner in those areas. When weve applied the coating over a more porous concrete in the past we've thickened the epoxy with a fumed silica called cabosil to keep it from soaking in excessively. You may also need to double broadcast the floor, meaning you have to install a clean coat over the already flaked floor and flake into the clear coat again to make sure the color is completely even across the floor.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thanks for the reply. Prior to doing a job how do you know if your slab is porous? In most cases if you’re doing full coverage this wouldn’t matter you wouldn’t see the concrete, but I honestly think the flake soaks up some of the epoxy.

@@critik4799 the base coat does absorb in to the epoxy a bit. You might try to apply the base coat a bit thicker. If the coating is too thin it can cause the concrete to show through a bit as youre mentioning. Try using a notch squeegee to put the base coat down it will help to leave the coating more consistent. You can get an 8-12 mil squeegee here.. seymourmidwest.com/47750PI/

Thanks for the comment. I assume you're referring to the top coat. The polyaspartic topcoat is very different than the epoxy basecoat. They pretty much are opposite of each other in terms of pot life. A lot of slower set polyaspartics have great pot life (around 45-60 minutes) but once they are out on the floor and thinned out they tack up very quickly.

Thanks so much!

Yes 2 x 10 mil coats would be fine. The finish would most likely have a slight orange peel finish. The floor would also be very slick when when is you dint incorporate any aggregate for slip resistance.

We generally run a 60-80 grit sanding screen or sandpaper over the floor before laying the next coat.

We have in the past. It can be caused by contaminants such as hydraulic fluid, oil, or other substances in the concrete. Sometimes it could be the coating just isn't a great product. Once we find products we like and they perform well we try to stick with them!

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thanks for responding. We recently had a project where we were having fish eye problems between the primer and intermediate coat. We did not sand because we installed the following day approximately 12-18 hours after primer coat and always before 20 hours. do you ever sand between the primer and intermediate coat?

@@kraigmtarou The fish eyeing is probably caused by either a compatibility issue between the two coatings or it could also have something to do with the pigment in the basecoat. Thats been a very common issue with certain manufacturers because of cheap ingredients that are being used. Some of that was also because of supply chain issues during covid.

Thank you!

I just use clean water to rinse with no solution added

It depends on how much texture is in the floor. If the floor was left smooth enough you can definitely microfiber mop it. The method I showed in the video worked pretty for most installed floors generally. If there's too much texture in the floor it may be difficult to clean with the microfiber mop.

Thank you for the comment. As I mentioned in the video you dont want to use too much bleach, only about a cap full or two which equates to about 2-3 oz. I only use bleach because it doesn't leave a residue behind if the floor isn't rinsed well enough. Another cleaner you can try that's specifically designed for Epoxy can be purchased with these guys.. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com Do you know what the black marks are from? You can email the photos to me at columbusepoxyflooring@gmail.com and I'd be happy to take a look.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thanks, emailed you!

You don't want to use too much. Only about 2-3oz. I've cleaned my personal garage with this method for years and never had an issue. That said, the top coat also matters. We always use a polyaspartic for our garage floor top coats. I only like using the bleach because its doesnt leave the residue behind if the floor isnt rinsed well enough. Another safe cleaner you can try is ERC that you can buy from these guys. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com

That’s why a flexible coating was installed over it. It’s not gonna crack

@@escott2015 it will crack. They didnt address the root cause f the crack. This is the kind of thing you do when you want to sell a house

your mother

We just used 100% solids epoxy for this project

Thank you for the comment! For under 500 square feet, 2 tests is fine

We currently have the site under maintenance so were having to take orders manuallyfor the time being. If you email me your product details (square footage, repair work needed) I will send a quote for the materials you will need.

You need the square footage of my stem walls?

Are you wanting to coat just the walls and not the floor? I'd need the square footage of whatever you're going to coat just to make sure you'd have enough material. You can email me at trent@columbusepoxyflooring.com as well

Why coat the wall with concrete?

Why place bricks on the garage wall.

The most important part is always the prep. You'll want to get a hold of a diamond grinder to grind the concrete and open up the pores, this will help to bring out the color in the concrete and allow the coating to bond. I would focus most of your research on the prep side as that will take most of your time and is the most important step. We used a 100% solids epoxy primer and high wear urethane top coat in this video. If you are interested in purchasing material please let me know and I'd be happy to get you what you'd need.

Hello, I come from China. We are a manufacturer of concrete floor repair materials. We hope to cooperate with you