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Pretty sure Amazon sell these. But I don't live in Canada so I don't really know.

I honestly have no idea, sorry.

You can buy these on Amazon.

It's wearing a bit. I keep thinking about how to solve it and I'm really surprised none of the provided plates extend that far down. I am also planning on reducing the spring tension on that latch as it's quite strong.

It's been a while but I think if the last time you engaged the lock was with the key, then it might not be able to be used to unlock. As long as the door was not latched *using* the key (and was latched using the door handles), you should be fine.

The door is always locked as soon as it closes. The additional latches can only be engaged by lifting the door handle up (for the secondary latches) and turning the night latch from the inside (for the night latch). So no, the additional latching cannot be done remotely. More specifically, the only electronically controlled mechanism in the entire lock is the one that connects the external door handle to the latches. That's as complex as it gets inside the assembly.

I dunno mate the ones that came with mine have been fine. It would depend if they are Zinc-carbon rather than alkaline, if you're aware?

Dont worry i just read in comment below 😂

@@TheMrsorge hahah yeah I was going "I thought they already asked that question!" but it was just someone else. Don't stress too much, I scratched my head for a bit when I installed mine too. The benefit of making edited vidoes is you get to appear smart even though you may have actually been whacking it with a hammer for a while like Patrick from Spongebob.

There is a screw that you remove from one side of the locky body and reinstall on the other side. It's described in the manual.

Yes, admin can always open from outside if the night latch is on.

There's way easier ways to break into my house, but the pin codes were changed anyway. I don't treat Smart Locks as more secure, just more convenient.

That tongue just signals that the door is fully closed. It is an annoying noise, and maybe you can leave it blocked but if your door does not behave as desired you may need to unblock it.

Isn't there a factory reset button on the lock somewhere? I'm not sure if that will help but it's where I would start.

No, it can't. It's not an "auto lock"; rather it's just that the outer handle is *never* connected to the mechanism unless you have authenticated and then it is connected briefly to allow you to open the door. My wife had the same concern you do, but in reality it's not a problem because you can always open the door with your fingerprint. However if the issue is for ensuring small children can get in and out of the house easily, then yes it might not be suitable.

you can use passage mode i guess

Passage mode doesn’t lock automatically?

@@IchigoTensaZangetsu1 yes it is

@@IchigoTensaZangetsu1apparently the A100 doesn't have a passage mode yet.

Yeah I ended up using a tool on Linux called "bcrelay" which is part of a package called "poptop". My disclaimer is that I have dumped all of Tuya. Everything has been reflashed with ESPHome, which is much, *much* better.

Hi Nikki, no I just ordered it from Amazon Australia. I wasn't even sure what kind of strike plate setup I would get and, honestly, it depends on your door jamb design whether it's an issue or not. My jamb sticks out beyond the metal plate, so even with the extended strike plate, I still have some impact on the door jamb by the latch. I need to work out some way of avoiding wear on my door jamb.

There are multiple flavors for this product. I think there is the ZigBee version vs the pro. Additionally, for both flavors your can choose between 2 types according to the door thickness. There is the 40-80mm and the 80-120mm. Maybe this can affect the plates you get with the product 🤷‍♂️

@@liormoneta1195 I looked into this a little bit and the A100 Pro is without ZigBee, and only sold in China. I guess their plan is to use it for Hotels or something? I hadn't noticed that there are "thin" and "thick" versions when I bought mine, although at the time it was only readily available on Amazon. It's now being sold by local electrical retailers.

(modern replacement @ same price *less attached cord* ) Targus 140W USB-C Portable Power Bank

I believe it requires a 65 watt USB-PD charger to charge it. It certainly doesn't charge off a standard phone USB-C charger.

whats the output from this power bank?

It's just the USB-PD standard up to 65 watts, so I can't speak for your Samsung if it uses customised charging methods.

@@KaldekBoch ok my friend, thanks

No, that's not correct.

I'm not 100% on that as I'm not sure which component of the hardware handles Netinstall. If it's the firmware I'd say the firmware also needs to be reverted back, which I'm not sure about.

@@KaldekBoch Appreciate your reply. I've since been told that Netinstall is a no-go, because it won't downgrade past the factory firmware - which on the latest router is also v7.x (FM). I've also read some comments on the Mikrotik forums that there are some methods around to potentially downgrade. But no one is sharing any links and I've not been able to find any so far. In your travels have you come across any resources which might perhaps be worth looking at?

@@gdayvw not in my travels unfortunately. I'm often so busy that aside from solving my own pressing issues, I can't branch out and go down the rabbit hole.

whats the output from this power bank?

Yes, it can charge phones as well. I wouldn't buy it for that sole purpose though, I consider it a secondary feature.

it will be a superfast charger for phones since it uses 65w

Btw how much mah does it have? Let's say you will only use it when your laptop battery goes down to 10%, then how many times can it fully charge it (provided that the Dell powerbank is on 100%)?

@@alexpaz7904 It's 50 watt hours. Can only charge an XPS 13 Plus 9320 once (fully).

@@alexpaz7904 Well that depends on the phone. If the phone supports USB-PD it will charge as fast as the phone allows.

It's about a 50 watt/hour battery providing 65 watts of power. A gaming laptop probably needs a 90 watt supply, so I don't think I would recommend this for gaming.

@@kaltek797 but does it charge the gaming laptop,( my laptop original charger is 180w)

That sounds like an issue with Frigate syntax. Unfortunately it doesn't mean much to me as just another random guy on the Internet. Step #1 with any Reolink camera is to make sure you can reach the device via VLC Media Player and using the "Open Network Stream" via the same stream URL you're trying to use in Frigate. Whatever the URL is you're telling Frigate to use to communicate with the camera, you need to make sure it's right by testing it in VLC. After that's validated, you can work on Frigate YAML syntax issues.

I have the same Problem where you able to solve it?

@@Thechoosenone12 did you guys solve this issue?

Make sure you turn on all the right settings! You need to go into Network-->Server Settings-->Setup and enable all the ports.

Did you find an answer to this?

@@tomhueb793 they said that zigbee dont have this because it only works with wifi

It can add another 5 hours or so to an XPS 13 9320. It delivers the full 65 watts advertised at the advertised 65 Wh of capacity. How long it lasts depends on your device's power consumption of course. It charges at 33 watts, so takes about 2 hours to charge.

Yes, I wish there were too! I have limited time and tend to focus on issues which massively affect me. I have a couple in mind on WiFi Wave 2 for Mikrotik that I hope to get out soon.

Hi, did you find any solution

@arslanmehdi3743 No I don't find what ip need. I let all tuya devices outside assistant to work with wifi as a new device you buy. I don't have so much time and I stop making changes. If I try again I will send you the solution. Thanks

@@gt-tech thanks

correct, but having used this for a while I think this is all part of the experience they're wanting people to have. That being, it's designed to be used in-line with power most of the time so it's kept topped up. It can be used to power things like phones but that's not the main use case.

@@KaldekBoch I would want to use it to charge my Steam Deck so I’d prefer to be able to use any length cable I want.

@@MrsBlaileen1 then this isn't the right product for you. Anker and other brands also sell 65 watt USB-PD power banks that don't have in-built cables. Look around and see what you can find.

@@KaldekBoch Thanks, appreciate it.

​@@KaldekBochdoes that mean if I bent the USB c piece and it came out, it renders the charger useless

Hi mate, no and this is the problem with Tuya. The LocalTuya plugin needs to be able to see the existence of devices on the network, then authenticate to a Developer account and ask it for the Local Key. Without the developer account you can't get the keys. I'm in the middle of either reflashing all of my Tuya devices to Tasmota (where possible) or replacing them with Zigbee based devices, since HA has excellent native support for that protocol and there's no cloud vendors involved.

@@KaldekBoch Thanks mate for the info. Cheers.

You just plug the USB-C power supply into it. It has a USB-C port for charging it, and a USB-C cable for connecting to the laptop. The benefit of this battery is it can be charged while it's in use. It's connected "in-line" if you get what I mean.

@@KaldekBoch You forgot to tell Jade that it has to charge from only the Dell power cord. Not from just any charger.

@@Frip36 I've charged it multiple times from non-Dell chargers. Dell has no magic here - it's just USB-C PD.

I charged it using my Apple USB-C charger. (I used my Dell charger to charge my laptop directly).

Thanks for going back to update this. I appreciate all the info you've pulled together to be able to make the spreadsheet and those comments and I like your perspective on new users, as I'm one of those trying to move away from the "common L2 misconfiguration" of vlans and ports in multiple bridges.