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Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you can prime the fuel filter the way you said, it's probably easier to fit it on the car remove the caps fit your pipe and funnel and fill until it comes out the other side then connect the fuel lines.

@@crystalclearmechanics thanks for your reply so do I need to fill both the low pressure and high pressure sides, is there a preference as to which pipe I use to prime it up or will any do. Should I do this before refitting any of the pipes or refit pipes after it's full.

@@soulfulshoes Hi, if you stand in front of the car looking at the engine the pipe connections on the left of the fuel filter are fuel return pipes so don't worry about whether they are connected or not. It's best to connect your pipe and funnel to the pipe connection on the right and nearest the front of the car leaving the pipe the opposite side open.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.The electric plugs on top of the tank do suffer with corrosion so best check those first. The float unit can be purchased from the Jaguar main agents and it slots in the side of the swirl pot, I think the price was just over £100. If you give Jaguar your reg No they should be able to give you the part number and the price.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Can you tell me the symptoms and what led to the issue, did the engine cut out while driving, did it not start one day, did you run out of fuel any history would help. I will describe the fuel system for you. The tank pump lifts and recirculates the fuel into the swirl pot (the plastic yellow / orange unit in my video) creating a suction that transfers fuel across the tanks keeping correct levels, the fuel float fits on the side of the swirl pot. The low pressure pump is integral (fits on the back of the high pressure pump, top back of engine.) to the high pressure pump and sucks fuel from the tank through the fuel filter etc to the high pressure pump then into the fuel rail then injectors. The pressure control valve (PCV) is located on the rear of the fuel rail. To give advise I need to know as much as possible and then go from there. Thanks.

@crystalclearmechanics it was having a hard time starting, but it was still starting, so i thought it might be a low battery voltage issue, so i took for a nice long drive on the way back to the home after a 70km trip engine light came on, steering got hard as engine cut out so no steering pump i believe, engine system fault came up on the screen & it died. I managed to pull it on to the side. Scanned the code on my obd scanner it came back as P0087 "low rail fuel pressure." I don't think i ran out of diesel unless my fuel float is faulty. I suspected it might be a diesel fuel filter (black filter under the hood), but it seems like my in tank pump is not even pumping anything to the fuel filter when i took the feed line off from the filter. My in tank pump do spins though. Questions: 1. On the front of the rail is your fuel pressure sensor, right? 2. The back of the rail is PCV (pressure control valve, right? 3. Where is the high-pressure fuel pump located? Any other fuel system components than in-tank float/filter, black fuel filter, high pressure fuel pump, PCV, fuel pressure sensor, rail, injectiors? I'm in New Zealand so bit hard to find parts as well.

@crystalclearmechanics now it's not starting after charging the battery, and starts when easy start fluid is sprayed into air intake system.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 2.7 / 3.0 engines have 5 injections of fuel per stroke as I stated in my video, 2 pre injections 1 injection on firing and 2 injections after firing. The main cause of failure is the 5 injections and driving style but 3 injections which = 18 fuel injections per full engine cycle are also enough to cause engine oil dilution. The 2 after stroke injections are relevant only to the DPF (as I understand it) What you should justify is why only a small amount of these engines fail in comparison to the number still on the road without issue. Engines as I stated fail for a number of reasons but when Jaguar admit to an engine oil dilution problem it's worth listening.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Could you verify that your car is the 2.2 diesel Jaguar and also the issue you had with the car and the reason you changed the fuel pump?

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Let me know which car your working on? The reason I leave the torque converter in the gearbox is to save space when moving the engine forward to get clearance and to save on gearbox fluid leaking from the torque converter. The easiest way if your engine is solid is to remove the engine with the torque converter still attached to the driveplate / flywheel, the torque converter just slides out of the gearbox as you move the engine forward, you may need to tilt the engine when lifting for clearance or remove the radiator. Try and keep the gearbox level with the engine (a jack under the gearbox) when seperating from the gearbox also plug the torque converter as soon as you can to stop anything getting in it.When the engine is out you will be able to dismantle it until you can turn it to remove the torque converter. You will need to fit a new torque converter seal in the gearbox and I would then slide the torque converter back into the gearbox ready for the engine to be fitted. I am guessing but to clear the torque converter you will need about 3 to 5 inches more clearance on forward space. I will keep looking at my messages so if you need any more advise please let me know.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Barbara, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your much appreciated feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Jason, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If in doubt reverse the tightening sequence.

Hi Jules, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. use the starter motor bolts (2) but you will need to get 2 nuts to fit the bolts, it's a little awkward fitting the nuts to the bolts so get free moving not locking ones so you can spin them on the threads until finishing with spanners to tighten properly.

@@crystalclearmechanics ok thanks, didn`t want to strip everything out then find I needed the car to go & get any additional parts, thank u again.

@@crystalclearmechanics Hi again, thank u for your reply, managed to complete it today, was a right chore to undo crank bolt, only managed with 4 ft scaffold tube. The problem I now have is car starts but no central locking, I am told if battery is disconnected it will need a Immobilizer Reset with an SDD tool or other, not mentioned in your video, is this correct?

@@richardpomery7215 Hi Richard, I can only apologise I thought I had given that advise, I've checked the video and you are correct I did not. I will try and add that advise to the video if possible so thanks for making me aware. I know it's a bit late but my experience with this central locking issue is that a few of the 2013 / 2014 and registered 2.2 2015 cars can have this issue when the battery is disconnected or depleted, the 2011 and 2012 cars I have worked on have not had the issue. It is not a problem to get it reprogrammed and should not be expensive. The crank bolt is usually tight until it is almost out due to the threadlock used. Yes I use a 4ft scaffold tube sometimes as well. Glad you got the belt done.

Sorry that should have said, I’m not sure how to reply 🤦‍♀️

Hi Debra, let me know what they diagnose. They are correct the DPF should not have caused the turbo failure. The oil dilution occurs because of extra fuel injected into the cylinders, 2 of those 5 injections are to aid the heating of the DPF so is relevant to the DPF system but the DPF and cat are after the turbo so should not affect it. The engine oil dilution applies to the earlier diesel engines 2.2 / 2.7 / 3.0 not sure if it applies to the 2ltr as I have not read the relevant information yet but I would assume they run the same system.

Hi Kenneth, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It depends if you want the unit complete or not. Used it should be £40 to £70, the float part which is usually the problem is about £120 new. Make sure you check the electrical plug connections first as these do corrode.

@@crystalclearmechanics ok thank you I can’t seem to find the part - do you know where I can find the part?

@@crystalclearmechanics Ive changed the fuel pump and it still won’t start - any ideas on what it could be? Thank you again

@@Kennethphillip Hi Kenneth, could you tell me the symptoms that led you to change the fuel pump?

@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for your reply - i found the fuel pump only at a jaguar main dealer for over 400£ i thought that was quite a lot for a fuel pump but anyway - just got a call this morning from the mechanic and the car is working fine now - but initially I ran out of diesel because the indicator was not working and then it would not start up - I thought it might be high pressure fuel pump but it wasn’t keep up the great videos

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm glad it worked for you.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Debra, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Sorry to hear about the problems with your car. It's not uncommon for the 2ltr turbos to fail, proving the cause of failure after it's happened is difficult if at all possible. It should not have failed with such a low mileage and Jaguar service history but saying that does not really help. Has the engine suffered damage or is it just the turbo / cat / DPF?

Hi Matty, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Greg, thank you for watching and for your feedback. yes that's a good idea.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The part is expensive new or used unless you are lucky and can locate one cheaply. If it's being offered at no cost to you, I would take it. If you take your time and follow my video ( Jaguar XF 2.2 EGR valve unit removal ) it's not difficult too replace but you could accept the part in case needed at a later date and do the quick fix anyway. you can't lose either way. Thanks again for watching.

Brilliant, that sounds like a plan. I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I’m relieved the slightly cheaper price I paid for the car is staying that way for the time being 🙂 Because you sound like such a Jaguar expert 🙂are the powered struts easy to replace on a SportBack? I can see mechanically it looks very straight forward but I’m assuming I have to remove the boot lining to get to the electrics? I can not find any videos. The soft buttons on the boot do not work either but I have heard a spray of WD may solve that if I can get to it? The rear wiper doesn’t work either 😂 but I can live with that but using my neck to keep the boot open I can’t 😬

Hi Nicholas, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Graham, the pump has a big warning sticker left on it and another that is unreadable but that's it. I found it in the boot of a car that i purchased so don't know it's origin.

Hi Gary, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The video shows the main cause of engine failure in the Jaguars which is engine oil dilution, I quoted the oil dilution issue from the Jaguar workshop manual. The LR side can and do suffer with this issue. When a crankshaft snaps it usually involves other factors unless you are saying that every 2.7-3.0 ltr JLR diesel engine has failed for that reason and they have not, there are millions of these vehicles still on the road without issue. If something snaps it usually snaps at it's weakest point or where other factors are present at that point ( similar to a con rod snapping, other factors are usually involved ), it does not show the cranshafts on a whole as being ridiculously weak ( manufacturing problems on some could be an issue ). I have not had one of these engines in with a snapped crankshaft ( destroyed bottom ends but crankshafts not snapped ) so lack the experience of checking out other factors that may have caused the crankshaft to snap ( worn / spun shells, seizure, oil pump failure / oil dilution etc etc ).

Hi Graham, you should not have to reprogram anything after fitting the new actuator. Did the alarm activate before replacing the actuator or is it since.

@@crystalclearmechanics This is a new phenomenon, but could be entirely coincidental!

Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You are correct care has to be taken when removing the light as that corner is fragile.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your complimentary feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " You will see the main cause of major engine failure with these engines, although it refers to UK cars and the DPFs which amount to 5 fuel injections per cylinder per stroke, without the DPF fitted as standard there would still be 3 fuel injections per cylinder per stroke which could cause engine oil dilution although cars sold to other countries without DPFs have reported good reliability. I recommend 5,000 mile oil and filter changes on UK cars. thanks again for watching.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Lee, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The key lock will be removed as you remove the exterior door handle, the same process as the drivers door. I don't disconnect the battery as all the electrical connections are insulated and I don't switch the ignition on when they are disconnected. I advise you to keep seperate and mark which screws go where when you remove them, makes life a lot easier when assembling. Take your time as well, don't rush it or force anything, just follow the video, there is no time limit. Thanks again for watching and any problems let me know.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Alex, thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Graham, yes it could thanks for sharing.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I always ( out of habit ) pump the brake pedal before replacing the cap but it would not affect it either way. No you do not need to bleed the calipers.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause Revealed " It explains the main reason for these engine failures.

Hi David, thank you.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes it's the same.

Hi David, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The pedestrian protection system control module ( fitted behind and back of the left hand front wheel arch cover ) receives an impact signal from the PCS ( pedestrian contact sensor ( bar across the front beam )) and two .accelerometers mounted on the front bumper beam. the control module interprets the signals to determine whether impact is with a pedestrian or other object, such as a traffic cone. When the control module detects a valid impact signal and the vehicle is in the 15 to 45 Km/h ( 9 to 28 mph ) speed range, it fires the two pyrotechnic hood latch release units and two pyrotechnic actuators which opens the hood / bonnet approximately 130mm ( 5.1 in ). The pedestrian protection system is factory fit only to non federal vehicles. . .Two accelerometers ( the sensors shown in the video ) are mounted on the rear of the bumper beam. The accelerometers measure the amount of inertia when an impact occurs and send a signal to the control module. This signal is used by the control module to calculate the firing of the pedestrian protection system. The accelerometers are modified crash sensors. The sensors have a lower detection range than front/side crash sensors to enable them to detect lower level impacts and therefore assist in the object discrimination process. .The video is for XK replacement as stated not XKR. . Thanks again for watching and your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The video shows how to change the intank fuel pump / swirl pot / fuel level sensor. Starting the car would not show the fault as ( in this case fuel gauge reading issue with engine cutting out intermittently with fuel level reading under half a tank ) rectified, the car would need a full tank and then run to near empty a couple of times to see if the used items are working correctly. The intank fuel pump / swirl pot creates a syphoning effect to keep the level correct across the saddlebag fuel tanks, it also sends the tank fuel level to the fuel gauge. It does not feed the high pressure fuel pump located at the top back of the engine or the low pressure fuel suction pump integral to the high preesure pump. I am glad you brought this to my attention as on reflection It may well have been better to have explained the reason for not starting the car. By the way the car has been running without issues since the replacement. Thanks again for watching and for your feedback.

Hi Graham, Thank you for watching and for your feedback.

Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. No you don't have to bleed the brakes at the end.