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Awesome so glad to hear it!

Hahahahaha funny 🤣🤣 I'll be linking the video of the replacement later once I edit it 👌🏻👌🏻

You got it!!

💯

Yeah whoever installed this is probably laid off by now! It was plumbed in for external recirculation and the unit was never configured for it.

Nope try again lol

Sorry but this one's a game! 😎 We'll find out who knows what's up in the comments

You only give it a 1-2 minute charge to bring the battery above the threshold so the BMS can recognize it... not sure why your bulb died. Will the battery charge via charging cable as normal? What was the battery voltage before you charged it?

@@TheMeticulousRepairTech I didn’t check the voltage of the battery, but it was at one bar. And no it will not charge normally

Battery died prob it was an old bulb I had laying around and I left it charging for more than 2 min lol

I tried charging it after a couple min of hooking it up to the bulb, but it didn’t work so I tried to charge it longer

Did you perform the test to make sure the charger was working? With the appropriate quantity of bulbs per voltage of battery

Just turn off power to unit, then turn off both the hot and cold main valves, then Lift the t&p valve lever to release pressure. Then you can remove the inlet filter and clean... reassemble using some silicone grease on o-ring, then open cold valve... release air using the t&p valve again, then turn on hot valve and power.

It's a special right - left - left-handed shovel, boy is it nice to use!!!

Most of the time a lot of noise from a tankless is due to bugs or other debris getting in the squirrel cage fan. Normally when a unit fires the fan starts at a higher speed then when the unit kicks in it will drop the fan speed to what is necessary to create the hot water, which could be the reason the noise settles down. That is something that a technician can pull out and clean, I'm sure a very handy person would be able to do it. If it was something I was working on, I would try to disconnect the vent running to the exterior and check it for mud wasp nest and all kinds of junk like that. You can also have a unit not running right because of debris in the burner and venting system which can cause noise in the combustion chamber I have had them be a little scary!

Thank you

Yes it should have a removable inlet screen! If you look under the bottom of the unit where the water lines connect, the one on the right side will be the cold and there will be a black knob looking part, it's gonna be right up against the bottom of the unit I think pointed to The left facing the hot side. Make sure you turn off the power and also the water is turned off at the isolation valves, and you can loosen the black knob and then unscrew it. You'll want to use a little silicone grease on the O-ring when you insert it back in place.

Thank you for your guidance, sir

Thank you bro!!

Glad to know it helped! Thank you for the kind comment!

Well it works pretty well for a good while though... It's just that we have a city water system, and this water we have is super hard on all rubber components especially O-rings and seals. Toilet Fill valves and flappers last like 2 to 5 years on average before they literally stop working or fall apart

@TheMeticulousRepairTech I'm just talking about the incredibly small and fragile stud that is used to operate it.

Definitely agree there! The new models seem better

"Never" ??? lol yeah unfortunately brass degrades and scales, and the ball valves stopped turning, and then leak at the stems... u can't win man 😆 Can't tell you how many high-quality, EXPENSIVE brass ball valves I've had to replace because they either won't turn or leak at the stem when you do turn them 🫤 And yes that is treated water from the city all day long 🤷🏼‍♂️

Tell us you have more money than sense.

Amazes me how shitty construction materials have become

​@TheMeticulousRepairTech you don't know what's in treated water so you?

Thank you!'

Nooope not me 👉🏻

You probably have a different issue causing it! Probably a bad fan resistor If no air blowing!!

Just needs to be torqued down enough 🧐

Hahahahahaha🤣🤣

No I didn't 😅

Yes that's how it was installed originally!

Thank you! Feel free to comment with any questions!

You're welcome!! So glad it helped

It's a SHORT... with the link to the VIDEO that explains how to adjust your crimpers. SHORTS can ONLY be 1 minute long hence the need to make a VIDEO about it 🤷🏼‍♂️

th-cam.com/video/3oHui-UonmM/w-d-xo.html

Check the link for the video on adjustment!

th-cam.com/video/3oHui-UonmM/w-d-xo.html

😂😂 It ain't even crimped bro!!

Watch the video on adjusting the crimpers you'll see it done 👌🏻👌🏻

What we're doing is cleaning the flux off of the copper so it doesn't get nasty green later... While the pipe is hot, a damp cloth will clean it up nicely 👌🏻👌🏻

@ I’ve been around plumbers who only know plumbing and I’m 10 years in never heard or seen that but interesting we’ve had no issues using a copper cloth shines it up very nice and get rid of the flux as well but I get what ur sayin

Yes, i've had mine for over a year I believe and they are still super sharp!

No man it's just perfect! Could I have used one - two seconds less of heat? Likely, but years of doing this and experience has showed me that when you're working on an existing tub spout stub out, and you have that tiny bit of water boiling off you need to heat it a second or two longer to ensure it is hot enough especially on that first one! that's also why we started at the closest to the wall, so that water can be boiled off as we work out versus getting boiling water in the joint. Applying heat to the pipe will draw the water out that is trapped up inside.

Thank you, actually I'm a man that knows The Man!!

Thank you!!