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Now the igniters dont spark on the left and center burners. Thoughts?

How much butter are we talking about? Did it get near the control knobs? Sounds like the spark module may have been damaged

@toddolsen995 enough butter to make a mess but all containes in the pan around the sealed burner. None at all near the control knobs

@BillIngram-d8s thats a tough diagnosis. Try unplugging or turning off breaker for a few minutes, see what happens. Did you clean the burner heads that were affected by the boil over? If the spark tip has nothing to spark off it will not work. Could be due to the bitter buildup around the burner heads. If those have been cleaned check the connections from spark wire to tip,make sure there snug

Nothing near the control knobs. All contained in the drip pans surrounding the sealed burners. Got your note on checking the igniter wires but seems improbable that all four wires of the quad would come loose at the same time especially considering the quad burners are all sealed. Then again, how could the spark module get damaged with the entire spill was contained within the drip pan. It appears that there are two spark modules. If they are the same, maybe I'll swap them and stt what happens. @@toddolsen995

Its possible, i cant quite remember without being in front of one. I have a thin wall set of metric, and use all sizes frequently. You may not need a thin wall or can grind down the end if need be.

Theres several different styles, i couldnt say for certain. I'd say to unplug the unit first, then disassemble unit, taking pictures along the way so can reference how everything goes back together. Use special care with wire connections, and harnesses as they can become loose or knocked off.

If it's like the model in the video, the actual failure was in the back of the oven. That particular machine had a failed thermal assembly. Keep in mind they all may vary. This repair will require some basic electronic multi meter skills.

Im ignorant, what is the gas eye?

The star where the propane comes out on the stove. I removed all the screws, but it doesn't budge. Look at this video the heat elements (👁) are in place on the left and removed on the right. 👁👁 Ps My husband said there called burners!😂😅

Copy. Some units are torx head screws, and some are socket heads. If they're seized, try soaking with a penetrating lube. Unfortunately, if that doesn't work, it's time for the grinder/ dremel, which is all too common.

I got all the screws out. I'm just freaking out because we are hosting Thanksgiving, and the oven isn't working. I think I have this exact model. Thermador Pro duel, it 2009 model. I also have the electric griddle in the center.

I have someone who can probably check that stuff. Why isn't there any schematics in the owners' manuals? Since you are being so helpful, how do I get the door off? I spilled something in between. I really want to clean the inside glass. The latched fold out, but will not lift off. Thanks in advance. 😊

Some wolf systems have that, some dont. Customer service is usually limited on available technical information. I always start with metering the voltage. Typically, if none of the heat features are working it's usually something with the limiter, wire damage, or one of the relays.

@@toddolsen995 Thanks Todd. Fingers crossed it is the limiter because it seems pretty straight forward for DYI :).

Codes are generic, and don't always pinpoint exactly what the issue is. I hope that works for you!

Glad I could help.

Behind the metal plate above the washer lid is the technical sheet. Remove the 2 screws to access this. It has all the steps to ru through the diagnostic program

Im not sure i understand the question, but if the inverter is receiving 110 to 120 volts on supply, and 2 to 14 volts DC at the communication cable but the inverter is not starting the compressor, your issue is with the inverter.

It may be at the bottom hidden by crisper drawers.

I check all the elements for continuity straight away. Oven will cycle between each element to heat, and maintain heat. If continuity is good, you'll have to check voltages at the feed wires. This can be tricky as it is live voltage with bare metal connectors. Can also check voltage feed from the relay board above the oven, but that won't rule out any damaged wiring to the elements

Theres a special tool with grooves in it made by Dacor/ samsung. You can also try channelocks. Half the time we end up having to Dremel cut the rings off, and replace them. It's quite tricky though as you don't want to damage threads on the tube.

@@toddolsen995 I like that idea. I've seen where lots of people use a step bit and drill out the whole venturi and nut. I like your suggestion better. I can take my time to save 30 bucks x 3 or 4 burners. So I was looking for parts tonight and the nuts are discontinued and no longer available anywhere. Do you think I could replace the nut with the an off the shelf part from a hardware store?

It's possible, It's a large circumference. I've never tried, but if you can find one, and potentially grind it down so it sits in there.

I agree. Seems like the balance to torque, or spin speed is out of wack. That was a problem with the earliest maytag front load washers. Was too much speed for the bearing assembly, and it stressed it.

@@toddolsen995 These washers are extremely hard to replace bearings on too, so many people don’t repair them. I heard you have to replace the whole tub to replace the bearing. Transmission gets stuck to the tub.

Yes. Gear case is sealed so must be replaced as an assembly. Also true that gearcase seizes to the tub. Supposedly the complete tub/ case assembly does not work on all units though. I've done a few newer models, and GE set me individual parts to do the rebuild. Not sure why, but that's how the data is provided from the manufacturer. Also not sure why they seize together. We've cut two completely apart, and it's a disaster. By the time you get near the axle everything is so hot it is a melting mess. If it's a newer model sometimes can be beat apart with a hammer and 2x4, but there all different with varying results.

@@toddolsen995 Bearing failures seem to be most common on GE and Whirlpool built machines at least for top loaders, for front loaders I’m not sure. I’ve heard that the older Maytag top loaders, like the Performa and Atlantis series are also known for bad bearings. I haven’t seen much bearing failure or foreign built machines. I’ve seen all sorts of machines with bad bearings online, I’ve seen Frigidaire, Speed Queen, Whirlpool, GE, Maytag, all of them.

There all different. Model number is either on the side of the door or door jamb. Call reliableparts.com or repair clinic.com for the proper part number lookup. Also check the top of the unit. If the top of the tub is bent up slightly that will compromise latch interface. Sometimes by bending down the top of the tub slightly will help the door latch without having to buy any parts. Hinges for bosch dishwasher failure is not that common.

No. If the red button is set, and voltage is passing through the limit which sounds like it does you will need a new control board for that. Thing is before you order that it will be necessary to meter voltage at certain points to confirm this. If your not familiar with how to meter voltage safely it will be necessary to hire a technician, or potentially replace the unit.

There are some model variations which dictates the board that you need, prices vary. Your local wolf parts distributor can help you with the correct lookup part number, pricing, and availability.

Do you have the part number that you ordered? Thanks

@jonnywhy26 , no. I'd call either reliable parts.com, or repair clinic.com to do a current lookup, and they'll have any updates, or cross references that may apply

In what respect? Is there a visible legible model badge on your machine? If so, call your local wolf parts dealer to check availability of replacement hinges. Several wolf units utilize 1 spring hinge, and 1 has shock damper hinge. In our area I hardly see the damper unit fail. We generally just replace the spring side.

DF366

Ok. Call your local wolf parts dealer to confirm part numbers, and availability.

@@toddolsen995 Thanks - I've got the part numbers and confirmed availability, I'm looking for the steps to replace them. You went into detail about the problem around the 3:13 mark - I had hoped you'd cover that in the Part 2 video :)

@tecono1 i don't think I did. The hinges have a small hole at the bottom by the oven cavity. You will need to put a pin, or a screw in that hole or you will not be able to get it out. This acts as leverage so when you go to remove the door the hinges become disengaged from the receiver portion. From there its a matter of removing the screws from the door itself to access the hinges. Being careful to not damage the glass. If your model has a wolf logo on the face of the door there is usually 1 or 2 screws under that as well.

That happens. Same principle though

It really only works one way.

Sounds like there may be a failure occurring within the gearcase if that many couplers break. I would replace the gearcase at this point.

www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.geapplianceparts.com/store/order/shoppingcart&ved=2ahUKEwjzt5fm6r-GAxXF4MkDHZxkA60QFnoECDEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3H4QMxvU79E_L8P-2b_zoo It'd be best to check with GE parts direct as machines vary, and compatibility within the same model number is not always exact.

1-800-851-6200 is the number for GE parts. It is best to call them for exact replacement part numbers, and availability

Sometimes they seize on, and need to be cut off. Try spraying threads with liquid wrench or tri flow first, if that doesn't work you'll have to carefully cut it off.

@@toddolsen995 if I can just get this bolt off I’ll be home free to finish the repair

Colorado high country!

I’m in VA, so I dove in yesterday… (more confident after watching your tutorials). Discovered the relay board for the small oven was fried. One difference from your video I found, which you may know now, is that the entire assembly plate lifts and pulls out after removing the two front bolts and heat shield. This way you don’t have to kill your hands reaching in. Thx again for the videos!

They should line up automatically when the machine engages

After it fills does it sound like a motor is running?

@@toddolsen995 yes, because when I shift it to spin and rinse mode it’s spinning. But just the water never stop running to go to wash mode that’s doesn’t working.

Ok, thats a tough one. If it's not agitating after fill it could be a number of things. Diagnosing this is an advanced process. Is there any leaking from when it fills? If so, look for a loose hose dangling down by the tub, sometimes they pop off the pressure tube, which is connected to the water level switch. Has it overflowed over the top of the tub?

@@toddolsen995 yes it does leaking when it fill. And also the water keeps filling even when the lid is open.

Is there a loose tube dangling near the tub area?

It's best to call the manufacturer as part numbers change frequently, and not all models spec the same part.

I do not. I would call reliable parts.com , or repair clinic, and have them do the lookup. Part numbers are typically not stamped on the part. If its a double oven, I would replace both cooling fans at the same time

@@toddolsen995 hi thanks for the pointers!

Unfortunately it's under the door in the door jamb.

Most likely the thermal at the back failed. Try using a pice of coat hanger to push the latch that holds the door locked.

Yes, its actually a screen. They all look like that so don't worry. I have the same one. Scrub it with vinegar. If you have a hose that reaches that far will help with the pressure. If not just keep scrubbing and using hot water from the washer until its clean.