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Hollywood D
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2018
Triumph TR6 Door Lock Repair
Fix a loose door lock that might not lock or rattles around.
Reinforcement kit was bought from moss motors.
Reinforcement kit was bought from moss motors.
มุมมอง: 259
วีดีโอ
Triumph TR6 Gearbox Installation
มุมมอง 8163 หลายเดือนก่อน
Installation of the gearbox. Clutch parts used were an AP friction disc, Sachs pressure plate, bronze carrier and Koyo throwout bearing. New clutch master and slave cylinder installed. Clutch master was sourced from Pegasus Auto racing. New clutch setup works well and is not overly-heavy.
Triumph TR6 Pedal Bushings
มุมมอง 3114 หลายเดือนก่อน
Replacement of pedal bushings to eliminate play in the clutch and brake pedals. Early cars used plastic bushings from the factory. Replacements are metal.
Triumph TR6 Gearbox/Transmission Removal
มุมมอง 1.8K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
Removal of A-Type Overdrive Gearbox from a TR6
Triumph TR6 Dakota Digital temperature gauge
มุมมอง 3929 หลายเดือนก่อน
Installed a new temp gauge and sender from Dakota Digital to replace an inaccurate original Smiths gauge. 1969 Triumph TR6.
Triumph TR6 Custom Fuse Block
มุมมอง 6929 หลายเดือนก่อน
Fuse block which has constant and switched power for adding accessories without tapping into the stock electrical harness.
1969 Triumph TR6 GM Alternator Conversion
มุมมอง 66010 หลายเดือนก่อน
Conversion to a GM Alternator. You will need longer bolts if you decide to use an adjustable tensioning arm on the alternator compared to a standard alternator bracket. For an adjustable arm, measure the length you need. They all adjust within certain distances. Bushings may be required for the adjustment arm since most of them come with holes for a 3/8" bolt.
1969 Triumph TR6 Trunk Re-Upholstery
มุมมอง 95211 หลายเดือนก่อน
Replacement of the panels and carpet. Plus construction of a new spare tire cover. Panels are the ABS plastic offering from Moss Motors. Carpet also from Moss Motors. The aluminum c-channel is 1.25" tall to clear the spare tire. 1/2" plywood used for the base. All fastened together with 1/4" machine screws and nuts.
Triumph TR6 Voltage Stabilizer replacement
มุมมอง 1.3Kปีที่แล้ว
Replacement of a voltage stabilizer and testing. Stabilizer was re-built by dconnitt@gmail.com. Email him for inquiries.
Triumph TR6 EFI Final Install and Thoughts
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
Final installation of the EFI kit and thoughts on the improvements.
1969 Triumph TR6 EFI Fuel Injection Part 4. Wiring
มุมมอง 3.2Kปีที่แล้ว
Wiring harness install for EFI kit. Also installed GoodParts oil separator and pcv kit.
Triumph TR6 EFI Fuel Injection Install Part 3. Fuel pump and fuel line routing.
มุมมอง 4Kปีที่แล้ว
Install of in-tank fuel pump and routing of fuel line. This particular pump has a built in regulator and return. So no return line from a regulator is needed. Fuel pump is a FiTech #50017. Vibrant Performance shut off valve Russell fuel filter Racetronix fuel pump filter/sock
1969 Triumph TR6 Exhaust
มุมมอง 2.3Kปีที่แล้ว
Overview of an exhaust install. The exhaust paste used was Wurth. The exhaust band clamp used was purchased from Moss Motors. It is a 1 7/8" size. The pipes are 1 3/4" but the bigger clamp is needed to fit over the pipe where the two joints intersect. I recommend loosely fitting everything before fully tightening down. This particular exhaust kit was purchased from British Parts Northwest and t...
Triumph TR6 EFI Fuel Injection Part 2. Manifold Assembly and Install
มุมมอง 7Kปีที่แล้ว
Assembly of the different parts of the manifold and assembly onto the engine. Extra parts needed might be: 3/8" vacuum hose RTV Silicone gasket maker Blue Loctite New bolts and nuts to attach manifold to engine Dremel or some type of cut off wheel to cut throttle cable to correct length
Triumph TR6 EFI Fuel Injection Conversion Part 1
มุมมอง 10Kปีที่แล้ว
Part 1 of the Ramtech EFI, electronic fuel injection, conversion on a 1969 Triumph TR6. Disassembly and overview of the kit
1969 Triumph TR6 Thrust Washers and Oil Pump
มุมมอง 700ปีที่แล้ว
1969 Triumph TR6 Thrust Washers and Oil Pump
Triumph TR6 Brake Bleeding and Master Cylinder
มุมมอง 2.7Kปีที่แล้ว
Triumph TR6 Brake Bleeding and Master Cylinder
Triumph TR6 stuck axle dust cap removal
มุมมอง 2662 ปีที่แล้ว
Triumph TR6 stuck axle dust cap removal
Great help. Thanks for posting.
any chance of hearing that exhaust yet
Can I hear the sound
Sure I'll get an exhaust video up
You mentioned having to run the next size drill bit through to reem the hole. Was that because the injectors were leaking?
No, it had nothing to do with the injectors. The fuel rail bolts onto the manifold, just to hold it in place. It felt like the threads were cross-threading and weren't quite lining up correctly so I made the holes on the fuel rail slightly larger to give a little wiggle room. It fit fine after that and no issues with damaging the threads.
The slave cyl is fluid open back to the master cyl so no pressure is placed on the throughout bearing unless the pedal is depressed.
Great job 👍
Where did you to have it done, and how much did it cost?
@@thunder8512 Sportscar Craftsmen in Denver.
Thank you for showing this.
Great video and great job coming together slowly but surely. Hopefully you’ll be able to enjoy it before the winter
The IAC on most EFI systems controls the idle speed and helps prevent stalling. My Jeep will creep up hills in first gear with my foot off the gas and it’s the iac that keeps it running. I didn’t see an air filter. That will can quiet down the whistle.
What size adapter did you use?
A 5/8-18 UNF to 1/8-27 NPT adapter. Difficult to find. I found one on ebay.
So … I’m far from an expert … so I could be wrong…. But I think your test equipment is giving you a misleading result. The DIGITAL multimeter is taking a sample of the voltage at some instance in time. And the way the old style stabilizer works is by opening and closing some contacts. When the contacts are closed … you get full battery voltage (~12v). When they are open … you get zip. So unless your multimeter is able to somehow show you the average voltage over time (as opposed to instantaneous). It’s just gonna look like the voltage is jumping all over the place. If you had an analog volt meter … you’d see the needle bouncing up and down as the contact inside the stabilizer open and close. Which is not to say that your stabilizer wasn’t bad. It probably was. But even if it was good … you’d probably still see values jumping all over the place.
I've been searching all of TH-cam for the steps to get this dang thing off. Thank you very much for your video
Glad it was helpful.
I bet the clutch will be a lot smoother in release with new bushings.
Between all that slop and the broken fork pin I’m surprised it shifted as well as it was.
This is the best Lucas to Alternator conversion video I've seen. Clear instructions, straightforward thinking, nice problem solving with escellent video shots to guide the viewer. You can save a lot of money and get a far better installation by watching this than you'll get by any of the aftermarket "kits" out there. Absolutely go with A/C Delco, Absolutely !
Bonjour, chez quel fournisseur avez-vous acheté votre habillage de coffre ? Merci
j'ai reçu les panneaux en plastique et la moquette de Moss Motors
@@hollywoodd3191 vous confirmez, l’objet est maintenant en plastique et non plus en carton pressé ?
@@sylvainbecam4342 Oui mes panneaux sont en plastique. Ils vendent aussi du carton mais je pensais que le plastique serait plus résistant.
@@hollywoodd3191 vous avez bien fait. Ça doit être bien plus résistant. Je vais m’intéresser à la chose. Merci pour les renseignements.
@@sylvainbecam4342 Vous êtes les bienvenus. Bonne chance pour votre projet.
The Koni shocks you removed are not gas charged so they will not rebound from compression even when new. To adjust them you remove the bump stop, compress them and then turn the top clockwise or counter-clockwise to increase or reduce the shock stiffness. See: th-cam.com/video/u_eg9Kwv9NM/w-d-xo.html
Ah, interesting. I figured they were a gas shock. Good to know!
What is the GM part that you used to connect the PCV valve to the manifold?
If you look in the comments section of the Part 1 video it’s listed in there. I can’t seem to copy and paste it for some reason.
The clutch looks worn. Mine had ridges and I still replaced it. I also replaced flywheel with findaza. In all likelihood the rear seal is leaking too. It probably should get a sleeve on crank as well do to scoring. I let you know right now, everything leaks oil on this car.
I put a sleeve on the input shaft because even after replacing the oil seal I had a leak. I rebuilt my transmission with J type OD.
I’m pretty sure you made something to utilize the bottom port of intake manifold. Let me know if I dreamt that… lol thanks
I did the tape part but have not touched the rear of throttle body. I still have the whistle
I was able to minimize it but it’s not completely gone. I ended up using a piece of 3D printed plastic on the rear port and then sealed over it with gasket maker. Make sure your IAC gasket is tight and the blanking plate it IAC is screwed down tight. I got a wicked whistle and realized two of the screws were loose and it was creating resonance while the plastic blanking plate was flopping around. I ended up just cutting a gasket and putting the IAC valve on there since it’s more rigid.
@@hollywoodd3191 I put the blanking plate on. Both my MAP sensor and O2 sensor failed. I’m thinking maybe it’s burning oil and the zinc is getting into exhaust but I don’t see how.
I cannot for the life of me get rid of the whistle and it drives me crazy.
I have this kit. You said you made something to use the vacuum port on the lower side of manifold. I can’t find that video.
You can find the part on eBay. It’s made by ICT Billet Solutions. It’s called a “LSA LS9 LT4 LS supercharger vacuum port 1/8 NPT Hose Adapter Holley High Ram MAP”. Their part number is 551387. You will need to get a right angle hose barb to thread into the adapter if you want to hook up vacuum hoses or anything else.
@@hollywoodd3191 thank you 🙏🏿 so much
It isn't necessary to remove the Seats in order to remove the Transmission. To Overhaul a transmission for some oil leaks is stupid. It should be based upon the mileage covered and how much oil is lost during that use. If it's minimal, leave it alone
Suggest you watch the video all the way through then. Some of the issues are explained at the end.
Dan, check any new pressure plate to ensure it is flat. A friend just got a new one and it wasn’ t flat.
That’s frustrating. Good tip!
Someone did a youtube on a more permanent fix for the broken pin.
Yea, so you can get a better stronger pin and can also cross drill the shaft and fork to put a bolt in there. I will be doing both.
Are you going to get a plastic cover?
Yep. Ordered a bunch of new parts to include a plastic two piece cover from Moss.
Keep us informed!
Optima yellow, Lumenition Ignition system (Pertronix isn't as good anymore). Nice early dual diaphragm distributor. You could upgrade to SU H6 carbs. Add an Emergency / backup hood release in case the primary cable breaks, cheap upgrade with an easy install and pays for itself if you only use it once. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Rotate your gas cap 90 degrees (either direction) to prevent popping open in a crash (was a factory dealer notice at one time). Get a stainless steel brake line kit from Classic Tube. Stainless flex hose for brakes and clutch.
Are those the original seats for the 69? Great overview thanks 🙏
Yes ‘69 was the only year that has those seats.
What make of fuel line, source, feet needed and connectors?
The fuel line came as part of the kit but it's 3/8" AN hose line. The fittings are all AN-6 fittings. Depends how you want to set it up and any extra connections you make, which will determine length and number of AN fittings. I would measure the length of the car and add 10-15 feet on. Then you will have plenty of extra.
Love your videos, and it’s a good looking TR6. I’m slowly working on a ‘74, same color with black interior.
Thanks. Transmission is coming out next for a rebuild. Then some interior replacement and some paint touch up. Then I'm about done with it.
Great idea!
Very nice.
Looks great. You could use velcro between the abs and fuel tank if it does move or make noise.
That’s a good idea. I just put felt strips on the back to stop any rattling.
Same color as my 70 Spitfire. Love Triumph.
Those alternators are pretty solid.
Thank you for this. Looking to tackle this exact job on my '73.
It’s not a difficult job. Especially with the radiator out to check end float, but there’s other ways around that. Good opportunity out to clean other stuff up too. And check the main engine bearings to see how they’re doing.
@@hollywoodd3191 done now and first time started in 20 years!
Beautiful work!
Looks great makes a lot more sense. Great job keep them coming
Great job as per usual!!
So did you have the oil analyzed after the switch to fuel injection to see if you still had gas in the oil ? If you have a engine driven fuel pump that where the gas is entering.
No I haven’t drained the new oil yet. Current setup uses an in-tank pump so if any gas is getting in it would have to be the injectors leaking.
@@hollywoodd3191my car constantly gets some gas in sump. It may just be fumes, but to get the oil temp to 180 degrees burns off the fumes I’ve read. All cars get some passed rings I’ve read.
Beautiful car, thanks for sharing these points. I've been looking for the right one for years... I'm 6'2 but slender build, haven't sat in one with the roof up, but I hope I hope I can fit haha.
I’m 6’. I think you would be okay. Leg room would be the issue.
I'm 6'3" and can wear a hat with the top up
That’s the same alternator I am running on my TR4A. It’s been working great!
So far no issues. But I only have 50 miles of testing on it.
Thanks for the how to video.
I am in the middle of this conversion right now. Hoping to get it going after Thanksgiving. Probably a week or two if I need something else in the parts area.
The most time consuming part was the tuning through TunerStudio. Big learning curve if you've never done that kind of work before. I'm still fine tuning things.
Are you tuning the computer (Microsquirt) or talking about the ignition timing? I just bought the EFI conversion kit, looking for all info I can get.
I was referring to the ignition timing. I’m still running a stock distributor. I currently have it set at 12 degrees BTDC. I believe microsquirt can control an electronic ignition system. I haven’t done too much research into that.
Did you move the ignition switch, or is the 69 stock like that? If you moved it, what switch did you use, part number if you have it?
The ‘69 has the ignition switch near the gear shift like that. That was standard in ‘69. Although I’ve seen some relocate it to that position. Shouldn’t be too difficult. Just need to lengthen the wires and find a suitable spot to drill a hole.
good info...thank you
of course it has all the fuell injection set up as original, lucas pump metering unit injectors ect thank you