วีดีโอ

What a beautifully smooth idle! It is soooooo different from the lumpy tickover of the CP series 150 bhp Lucas injected cars, like the one I owned many years ago (XHA 511J, where are you now?). Nice work sir! Congratulations from Europe.

Jack stands will do what the 2x4's are doing.

Very good video, thank you....

Nice work!

Nice! Back in the 80's I had TR4s in Colorado.

Somebody send this guy a choke knob.

Sorry Who sell the kit on the internet ?

The stock voltage stablizer needs to be checked with an analog meter, the needle should cycle between 0v and 10v.

Great help. Thanks for posting.

any chance of hearing that exhaust yet

Can I hear the sound

You mentioned having to run the next size drill bit through to reem the hole. Was that because the injectors were leaking?

The slave cyl is fluid open back to the master cyl so no pressure is placed on the throughout bearing unless the pedal is depressed.

Great job 👍

Where did you to have it done, and how much did it cost?

Thank you for showing this.

Great video and great job coming together slowly but surely. Hopefully you’ll be able to enjoy it before the winter

The IAC on most EFI systems controls the idle speed and helps prevent stalling. My Jeep will creep up hills in first gear with my foot off the gas and it’s the iac that keeps it running. I didn’t see an air filter. That will can quiet down the whistle.

What size adapter did you use?

So … I’m far from an expert … so I could be wrong…. But I think your test equipment is giving you a misleading result. The DIGITAL multimeter is taking a sample of the voltage at some instance in time. And the way the old style stabilizer works is by opening and closing some contacts. When the contacts are closed … you get full battery voltage (~12v). When they are open … you get zip. So unless your multimeter is able to somehow show you the average voltage over time (as opposed to instantaneous). It’s just gonna look like the voltage is jumping all over the place. If you had an analog volt meter … you’d see the needle bouncing up and down as the contact inside the stabilizer open and close. Which is not to say that your stabilizer wasn’t bad. It probably was. But even if it was good … you’d probably still see values jumping all over the place.

I've been searching all of TH-cam for the steps to get this dang thing off. Thank you very much for your video

I bet the clutch will be a lot smoother in release with new bushings.

This is the best Lucas to Alternator conversion video I've seen. Clear instructions, straightforward thinking, nice problem solving with escellent video shots to guide the viewer. You can save a lot of money and get a far better installation by watching this than you'll get by any of the aftermarket "kits" out there. Absolutely go with A/C Delco, Absolutely !

Bonjour, chez quel fournisseur avez-vous acheté votre habillage de coffre ? Merci

The Koni shocks you removed are not gas charged so they will not rebound from compression even when new. To adjust them you remove the bump stop, compress them and then turn the top clockwise or counter-clockwise to increase or reduce the shock stiffness. See: th-cam.com/video/u_eg9Kwv9NM/w-d-xo.html

What is the GM part that you used to connect the PCV valve to the manifold?

The clutch looks worn. Mine had ridges and I still replaced it. I also replaced flywheel with findaza. In all likelihood the rear seal is leaking too. It probably should get a sleeve on crank as well do to scoring. I let you know right now, everything leaks oil on this car.

I put a sleeve on the input shaft because even after replacing the oil seal I had a leak. I rebuilt my transmission with J type OD.

I’m pretty sure you made something to utilize the bottom port of intake manifold. Let me know if I dreamt that… lol thanks

I did the tape part but have not touched the rear of throttle body. I still have the whistle

I have this kit. You said you made something to use the vacuum port on the lower side of manifold. I can’t find that video.

It isn't necessary to remove the Seats in order to remove the Transmission. To Overhaul a transmission for some oil leaks is stupid. It should be based upon the mileage covered and how much oil is lost during that use. If it's minimal, leave it alone

Dan, check any new pressure plate to ensure it is flat. A friend just got a new one and it wasn’ t flat.

Someone did a youtube on a more permanent fix for the broken pin.

Are you going to get a plastic cover?

Keep us informed!

Optima yellow, Lumenition Ignition system (Pertronix isn't as good anymore). Nice early dual diaphragm distributor. You could upgrade to SU H6 carbs. Add an Emergency / backup hood release in case the primary cable breaks, cheap upgrade with an easy install and pays for itself if you only use it once. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!! Rotate your gas cap 90 degrees (either direction) to prevent popping open in a crash (was a factory dealer notice at one time). Get a stainless steel brake line kit from Classic Tube. Stainless flex hose for brakes and clutch.

Are those the original seats for the 69? Great overview thanks 🙏

What make of fuel line, source, feet needed and connectors?

Love your videos, and it’s a good looking TR6. I’m slowly working on a ‘74, same color with black interior.

Great idea!

Very nice.

Looks great. You could use velcro between the abs and fuel tank if it does move or make noise.

Same color as my 70 Spitfire. Love Triumph.

Those alternators are pretty solid.

Thank you for this. Looking to tackle this exact job on my '73.

Beautiful work!

Looks great makes a lot more sense. Great job keep them coming

Great job as per usual!!

So did you have the oil analyzed after the switch to fuel injection to see if you still had gas in the oil ? If you have a engine driven fuel pump that where the gas is entering.