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Hi Jacob... is it a roller turned machine like mine so you just have the large nuts in the middle? Just tighten them down with a little force. The BIGGEST factor determining pellets is moisture content it MUST be consistent and around 10-12%. Also sawdust size, I uses shavings from planer which are quite fluffy so I can feed it in quicker... if it is say dust you have to go slower... also I use Oak only... no bark, no impurities...can you describe exactly the material you are using?

@@PelletJamie Thanks Jamie, yes my machine is also a roller turned mill. From what I can tell it is almost the same as yours. I have noticed that the moisture content plays a major role, but am yet to perfect this, amongst all the other variables. I am using a wood crusher (chipper and hammer mill in one) to process firewood sized pieces of predominantly cherry wood (with bark, although cherry bark is quite thin compared to other woods) into small chips. The wood I’m using ranged from seasoned outside for a year to 2 months so the moisture content varies quite a bit. If I can get the pellet mill to produce decent pellets then I will likely invest in a drum chip dryer. For now I’m experimenting with batch drying the chip…. I have yet to find an efficient way to do this as chipping into a large fertiliser bag results in the top layer of chip drying much faster than the bottom layers (which become more compressed). The other obvious option is drying the chip on a large tarpaulin…? I’ll try tightening the roller nuts, and letting the machine warm up fully with cherry chip at 10-12% moisture content and report back.

@@jacobfreeman6611 how do you mean chips of wood? What size exactly? If you are breaking down logs it must go through a hammer mill to take it to a fine grain of less than the pellet hole hole size... I go down to 5mm... the finished product looks like fine rice... all consistent size. When it is that size I feed it quite slow as it is alot more dense than from a planer. Yeah for drying it is a bit of a pain... Just got to wait for nice weather and spread it out om a tarp...but it dries very quickly

@@PelletJamie Sorry for the confusion, by chips I mean wood that has passed through the hammer mill. The chipper/ hammer mill I use has a screen with 4mm holes so everything comes out nice and consistent. Its encouraging to hear that the feed material doesn't take too long to dry on a nice day.

@@PelletJamieHi Jamie. Bit of an update. I tightened the main nuts retaining the roller assembly, ensured the machine was hot enough (too hot to touch the die) and used wood chip (processed with a chipper and hammer mill) at around 11% moisture content. The pellets still came out poorly formed (some very crumbly) with a lot of dust in the mix too. Any ideas? Cheers, Jacob

Hi... interesting info about softwood pellets... Will have to try that. I do let the pellets dry just where they fall for a few hours but I don't do anything specific to dry them. The moisture content of the sawdust is crucial to the operation , it must be between 10-12%... it also depends on lots of other variables, feed rate, speed of PTO etc etc. The finished pellet is about 6% moisture.

Yeah... you shouldn't be turning the stove on and off you'll break the heating element. Just leave it on

Many thanks for your quick reply today I have left it on and seems to be running much better very low flame room comfortable 18 degrees 👍

@@minijeff1951 No worries Jeff.. hope it works better now.

Hi. How do you mean "shut it off when it gets too hot"? The way it works it that you set the temperature I have mine at about 20 and then set the fan setting I usually have mine on 3. I get about 20 hrs from a full tank depending on how cold it is outdoors.

I get the sawdust, as much as I want/need from a local joiner. All joiners/sawmills will give it away for free because to dump it in landfill costs money which is what they would have to do. I could find 10 different other places to find sawdust in a week if pushed. For my own personal use this works with little hassle... I am on my third season with my made wood pellet ONLY heating

@PelletJamie humm...maybe I'm being a little short sighted....I will look around me and see if I can find some free sawdust. If I could maybe it would be viable. How may tons of pellets do you use in a season for how much SF heating?

@@mrpush2532 I run two pellet stoves, this season will be 2 1/2 tonnes of pellets. Next season I want to make 3 tonnes so that I start to have reserves. I basically pick up a trailer load of sawdust every month all year round and put that through.

@PelletJamie How many SF space do you heat?

@@mrpush2532 250sqm

It can be pine as long as it is pure and doesn't contain bark and foliage

This isn't a feed pellet machine and I have heated my entire 500sqm house using only the pellets I have made on the machine in this video..😂😂😂😂😂 Cheers for the Christmas laughs tho 🤡

@PelletJamie great,as long as it works for you that's good.happy holidays

My tractor is 63HP and this is a 350mm (12 inch?!)... making wood pellets requires quite a bit more oomph so it sounds like your new machine will be perfect for making feed. Good Luck.

@@PelletJamie the company pellet masters told me the 3 roller 230mm die should produce 500 pounds easy with the mash feed im running just gotta make my own pellet cooler and bagging system so pray for me lol 😆 redneck engineering will be in full effect

@@PelletJamie ps this machine im buying is built for wood pellets salesman said with the higher torque from the wood mill it should be easy to make feed pellets im running a 30hp kubota

Monitoring the moisture content is key.. they are at 10% humidity and work best at very close to that.

Just write it on here...

@@PelletJamie Ok i have the kl360 mill identical to yours running with 90hp tractor 1. How tight do you tighten the rollers 2. my die does not seem to stay hot or get hot enough. If i recycle the out put untill i get good pellets then start to intriduce new material the pellets get larger and crumbly. 3 I have had the sawdust at 15/18 % moisture . I also tried straw , the pellets are a little better but seem expanded. 4. How important is the drive speed My tractor can run at 1000rpm pto then i can run at half throttle so near the 540rpm . have you tried straw with your mill?

@@user-il3pm9kd2n Hi, I tighten the roller with a fair amount of force, it should come with a large nut and a bar about 60cms long, I put that in and put my body weight on it. OK this really is a game about Moisture Level, Feed speed, Wood particle size, type of wood/material. Firstly your moisture is too high. It is dependant on material but I don't put anything more than 12%, with pure Oak it is less than 10% basically kiln dried. Anything more and I am having to put it back through which as you have found out is not desirable... it takes off moisture inconsistently and goes dry and crumbly very quickly with each pass.. the key is getting the moisture content FIRST time, when this occurs it makes beautiful pellets quickly. If you are going to burn the straw in a pellet Mill you are going to need to add 1%lime as it corrdes and ashes the pellet stoves. I would reccomend trying to only use hardwood and pine if desperate. My tractor speed is only 580 so I don't know what it is like at the Higher speed? But here is the other thing that higher moisture content = less heat on the mill... so get it down to ~10% and try again.. see how you get on... there is quite alot of trial and error.. but once you hit that sweetspot you will understand. Cheers

No.. and you can't adjust the tightness on this whilst machine is running

I am aware of people running them for very long periods of time, potentially days. The Mill is made of cast iron and stainless steel, it gets hot so much that the water steams off maybe 80Celcius but seems fine. I have used mine longest about 4hrs.. seems fine.

​@@PelletJamie And how tight do you need to adjust the rollers? Before staring Ive loosened the rollers so that I can easily move them with my arm but after its running Ive tightened the fastening bolts so much that the rollers would no move at all (when Ive stopped the mill of course) with just a hand. The manual said 0.1-0.3 millimeters but how am I supposed to visually tell a difference so small when the mill is running and it has raw material in it? I would like to know how much is too much and how much is too little and what is perfect gap between the rollers and the die.

@@furanduron4926 OK so you have a die turned mill. I found when I used to use a die turned mill it didn't really make much difference how tight or loose the rollers were I just tightened them all the way but not with any force... just finger tight.

What type of mill have you got? What material are you using at what humidity?

@@PelletJamie 15 kwh Pellet mill model name: ZFPM260-p with a die of 8 millimeters and triple rollers. Chinese made unfortunately because cant find any European ones. (broke the axle today only after 30 hours of use). I use cutter swarf (100% wood material and 0% tree bark) that I break further down to about 3 millimeter sizes that then goes into a mixer where I add flours in it about 2 kilos for about 50 kilos of raw material (Flour which contains starch around 70% that apparently should help increase the pelleting feeding rate and hardness because the natural amount of lignin in the material is not working properly (or so I suspect) but they still have varying sized cracks in them) and after taking several moisture tests from the mixed material the moisture ranges around 11-14%, average around 13%, and no higher than 15% (Manual said operating range for making pellets is around 10-18%) although theres oddly much water vapor coming out of the pelleting process (but I guess its normal even for such dry material?)

@@furanduron4926 OK 8mm holes is a bit bigger than usual (6mm) I have never used a mill with that size so *could* be that. You shouldn't need to add an flour.. pure wood has enough lignin in it to make pellets.. that is all I use. I would ditch the flour.. also it seems a tad wet... I would say that best humidity is as close to 10% just from my experience, anything more than that and I have to run the pellets twice to get them shiny hard. You broke the axel! Blimey that must have taken some doing. Do you mean the shear pins or the actual axel?

@@PelletJamie Nah the shear pins actually broke earlier for some reason lmao (3 out 6 completely broke off but luckily the other 3 hold or theres no telling how much damage it could have caused if it broke off and flew against my face or something.) The axel broke inside one of the three rollers about 1 and half inches from the outer side where the circlip (or lock ring) and the grease is located. It almost looked like that the circlip had sawed it to half way and it finally broke off. I cant imagine how thats even possible. I doubt I screwed the bolts too tight since any less tight and it wont properly make the pellets. I did not even use full force with one arm so either I have superhuman strength or the iron or steel (whatever the axel is made from) is just that poor quality like you could almost expect from Chinese made product. Hopefully warranty covers it even if its been almost 2 years since I bought it due to it breaking in just 30 ish hours when it should last 500-1000 hours of use and we can still use the rollers themselves so its should not be that expensive even if it wont have warranty but I am worried if it will happen again. Whenever I get it back running it I might try doing something with the pellet cutter like sharpening the edges or just remove it entirely and see if that has something to do with the cracks...

Cheers...If you look at my other videos on my channel they take you through every step including the cost of every part including the hammer mill.. The raw material should be fairly easy to source... just find a sawmill or joiners or local woodworkers.. I posted on a local ads site and got so many replies I stopped the ad after a week of so many people trying to get rid of their sawdust because otherwise they have to pay at a local tip.. etc... Cheers.

Hi Alba, Do you speak English? Sorry, my Spanish is not very good.

Hi Reigo.. I haven't yet figured out quite how to get it to run the best. It feels like I am getting more usable power out of it than mains but not sure... Best thing to do is just experiment... wind a transformer and stick it on a ZVS... I have heard that it works better if you ground it aswell.

@@PelletJamie have you tried the induction cooktop and bifilar method, any success?

@@ReigoVilbiks There is definitely something interesting...try for yourself.

Right I explain that at the very start...if you watched any of the videos you would understand that the process has very little to do with putting the material in and watching it come out... it is for the same reasons that cooking programs aren't videos of food in the oven for an hour straight.

Bonjour Gérard. Avec plaisir je peut respondre a vous questions. C'est possible pour avoir le material qui sortie le broyeur de marteau direct dans la boucle de la presse mais tu dois verifie le humidite de le materiaux parce que il peut bloque le presse. Je ne le fait, mais c'est possible. Mon Tracteur seulement est 540 mais c'est meilluer avec 1000. J'utiliser environ 20l de gasole par tonne. Oui l'ectricite c'esr plus Cher.. aussi avec le moteur gasole c'est possible pour courier avec biomass, huile etc.

@@PelletJamie Thanks for fast answer, With your 540 pto, which engine speed/minite do you need? I heard that if you do not have a minimum speed on the mill, than it doesnt produce pellet... (For my first tests I will have a Fendt 60hp with three pto speeds 540 750 and 1000.tp minit) Question: (what do you think about the following ?) I would let my system work slowly but the whole day on. (some one would just overview it....) I would "underuse" the mills (also to protect its body)... with the following concept: - Same pellet mill as you have (quite cheap from China - normally requests 55 hp on pto ) - Same sawdust mill as you have ( requests +/- 6 hp) - Both machines would be connected and driven by the "Typical chinese diesel 1 cylinder engine - However the most pôwerfull of them just has 35hp... BUT it has a very good ratio (diesel needs/KWH produced) . This ratio is said to be 0.27 liter diesel /Kwh. In China and India those one cylinder diesel engines are used everywhere and for anything.....(waterpumps, generators....) So Because the two linked mills would be largely "undermotorized", I would have an automized wood chips inpout into the sawdust mill which would be (just important enough sothat the engine "can live with it") . Of course the mills would be underused but I let it go non stop (and I could heat our house with warm from engine). ? What is your feeling about that ? (I am looking for "outside critical spirit" about my idears....) Finaly I believe that your 20liters/ 1000 kgs is a very good result. In this way of doing, i believe we could rather be in the 30l/1000 kgs but may-be I am too pesimistic.... Thanks in advance

@@gerardmaraite The speedo on my tractor has an optimum engine speed to work with 540 so I just put the accelerator up until it rests on that, probably just a bit more so that the engine doesn't die. It is best for the engine to work at that speed, if you you it under that the engine might stall and probably not be very good for it. I would suggest probably sessions of 3/4hrs.. the engine will overheat if you use it all day.

@@PelletJamie

Ok so I understand that your engine is just turning at (probably) 1100 to 1300 turns/minite... so I understand that your fuel consumption is so low... I know your ZETOR tractor very well because my father had one 3511 from year 1964.. On those ones your could turn your PTO on two different ways: 1/ on/off with the direct way "engine - pto" (This is what you do and you get the "540 speed") 2/ Through the "wheels gear box" and there you can choose between 5 speeds right and one speed left (the return speed). How you do that? - First put your High/low from the wheels gear box inbetween. It means it will be on neutral there. - Second; put your PTO selector on the complete oposite side than the one you need for getting the 540 turns. - Third Chose one of your (5 or 6 speeds for the wheels) You than will see that the wheels will not move, but your PTO will turn at the selected speed... If it doesn't work, it means that they stopped this "intelligent system" but I do not believe they did... Have fun....

Hey Abhijit, The compression ratio is fixed to the thickness of the die plate when it is manufactured. For biomass you need a higher (thicker) compression ratio than wood. Yes the faster it spins the more output. Yes run slightly wet material through on startup so that the steam heats up the die plate. Never actually tested the exact temperature but too hot to touch would say 60/70 degrees C at least.

@@PelletJamie Thank you very much. Regards

I have replied to someone else on here with the link. Thanks.

It is a Chinese machine. Haven't had any problems with it yet.

Hi Paul, Bienvenue! Thanks for connecting. Sorry to hear you are having a bad time of the install. Yes the back boiler type I would expect are a little more complicated. I have yet to renovate the entire first floor of our house, but when I get round to it (this decade?lol) I will be installing a Pellet boiler. Yes softwood will work fine. Although I would reccomend finding a local sawmill if you were serious about making the pellets. To give you an idea, the amount of sawdust you need is 4x the volume of finished pellets so a standard house might use 2/3 tonnes of pellets per season. So that is 8/12mcubed (12 whole BigBags). Even if you have alot from the horses it might be good to get some from a sawmill... they will give you it for free (could look at cutting costs for the horses too?). The way you measure moisture is with a hygrometer. You can pick one up on Amazon for about €50.

@@PelletJamie Thank you for the reply Jamie. The system isn't a back boiler, I didn't make that clear. The replacement pellet burner is in our garage, having replaced the oil burner. It's made in Portugal, I believe. Ekallor is the make. I buy the sawdust as bedding from a local supplier, who just makes the sawdust for that purpose. We had a sawmill not far from us who did give it away, but he has since retired. I do know of another sawmill, which is quite a large operation. I could go and ask them. Where in the SW are you?

@@paulbradford8240 I am in the Lot et Garonne about 30 mins from Bergerac.

@@PelletJamie Probably not far from us then in Monflanquin.

@@paulbradford8240 Oh cool, yes in Duras but we are in Villereal alot as we have a group of friends there. Stay in touch and just let me know if you have other questions, Happy to help. J

Hi Clive. Do I know you? Always around to discuss. Cheers Jamie

@@PelletJamie yes our children go to the same school, we spoke very briefly.

@@clive1890 Ah hey! I am in the UK until 10th Jan.. then back. If you want to come round to the house can show you the setup. Cheers J

So why are you commenting? The price here has quadrupled for bags in 3 years and is set to keep rising. I can heat a house for the cost of the diesel €50 a season... lol. And most importantly nobody especially the government can change that....

@@PelletJamie I probably burn 175 40 bags a season in the us Pennsylvania I had them delivered for 6.50 usda bag it is what it is if any has the time and all the resources to do it cheaper god bless them

@@johnie19644 Twice the price here in France at the moment.

@@paulbradford8240 are you saying you’re paying 14.00 usd a bag?

@@johnie19644 $14.70 is what I have seen the pellets here for a 15kg bag (33 pounds). I was lucky buying mine in the early part of December for $9.98 per 15kg sac.

Hey. 14% is a little high. Is there any other differences (particle size, moisture level, feed rate) between the woods that make good pellets and the oak? Are any of the other woods hardwood?

@@PelletJamie thanks for the swift reply man. Everything else till now worked quite well. Also hardwood mixtures. Everything I mix with the oak comes out quite brittle not a nice hard pellet. Even if I mix like one one five. Seems that content of lignin in the oak is low or something? If I run the oak twice to reduce the moisture level it comes out as dust. So problem doesn't seem to be in the moisture level. I was thinking that there is a temperature issue or such?

@@zeemanstuning1223 They say you should not make pellets in 0 or sub zero temps, probably because the pellet die doesn't heat up enough. It could be that.

@@PelletJamie merci! Need to try again

Hi Maria, it is possible to use a large electric motor or diesel or in my case a tractor. A lot of people choose to use an electric motor because it takes up less space and you can use them inside.

@@PelletJamie Thank you for answer.But I dont have heavy electrick in my house.When I wonna try to made pellets can I use a lighter motor like a 2.2 or 3 kw?.Hope to get a answer.

@@betondarm Ah I think you are talking about 3 phase electricity. OK. Yes. It is expensive to get three phase electricity installed if you don't have it. The diesel pellet Mills are still good.. To be honest unless you have a very big commercial building it must be done outside as the process is very dusty.

@@PelletJamie Lucky, i live on a open field between cow and pig farmes. I love the smell !!.My house verry old from 1820, no isolation so it is verry cold inside.Thats why I wonne try to make a pellet mill, because the prices are verry high on the moment for a bag 15 kg 11 euro..We will see, Have a good day, thanks for all the answer, And keep on rolling with the pellets.

@@betondarm Hi Maria, I bought my pellets from Leclerc mid December. Four different manufacturers were available from there at prices from €8.50 to €13.99 per 15kg bag. Fortunately, I have a large trailer, so I could collect my own.

Sorry for my bad english. Reading this back i sound like a gypsy :/.

Hey. Thanks for the heads up and written in beautiful English Nonetheless! I actually didn't know that about Carbon Monoxide, so thanks for bringing it to my attention, I will do some further research. Fortunately my pellets are in an open container with a loose tarp over, they are also technically outside just with a roof over to stop moisture so plenty of ventilation, and as far away from the living area as possible.

@@purefoldnz3070 Yes, behold. I have proof I live in a massive house, heating it totally for free, off grid. I also own 7 more houses in the UK. Winning 👍 Please do take your ignorant, poor self and flush it down the toilet. Cretin

@@purefoldnz3070 When I post up something about Flat Earth... Feel free to challenge it... until that point commenting on an instructional video of pellet making makes you look like the ignorant cunt that you are... do fuck off.

Thanks! Yes will do another one after one week, then one month vid for constant usage to see how they hold up.. problem is I have never used "normal" pellets to compare them to lol.. I have my other stove filled with shop bought pellets so will run that test probs end of December. I store them in a 1000l water butt. Here in France they are pretty common, plastic m3 with aluminium cage around for support, I just cut the top off and put them in that... then transport them in 80l bins to and from the butt. I only have one water butt but will certainly get a few more as the secondhand ones are only about €30. Cheers for the watch

Good question. I pay no utility bills, that is what off grid means to me. Off grid does not mean living like a hermit. It is a fair point about the Internet. If the government want to Intervene and put taxes on it, then I will have to look at another avenue. I get the feeling given your videos of lots of cartoons and games that you are not actually interested in Pellet Mills or living off grid and are happy suckling at the teet of the state?

@@PelletJamie does that mean you can't make and receive phone calls? And how do you access the internet? Regards, Teet-drinker

@@Pepperoni290 As I say the government don't raise a tax on phone or Internet so I am just buying under capatalist transaction (which is great). The notion of being completely independent from the state is a goal, but I am a realist so really just doing most of this to save money... which I have. Keep boosting.

@@PelletJamie I see. If you don't mind me asking, what makes me a teet-suckler and why is it to be avoided?

@@Pepperoni290 Do you remember 2020-2022? When the governments of 3.5billion innocent people put them on house arrest and segregated society into a two tier system based on a medical procedure that was poison and forced you to put a piece of cloth over your children's faces and stopped them going to school and banned anyone who opposed these measures etc etc etc.. Did you support these measures?

Si vous avez des questions je peut parler Francais aussi.

@@PelletJamie Je viens de commander la même KL400P et je cherche toutes les infos concernant ces machines 🙂 Je vais faire des pellets de paille pour le chauffage car je suis agriculteur ! Pouvez-vous me dire à quoi je dois faire attention ?

@@lionelu2005 Bien sur on peut discuter. Felicitation et bienvenue a la monde du farbrique des pellets! Donc vos presse marche avec le prise de force aussi? Il tourn les rouleur ou le matrice? Une astuce, si vous voulez bruler les pellets de paille vous devez met des chaux (1%) de dans avant presser parce que il limiter le cendre et le chimique (chlorine) dans le paille qui rouille le tuyau de la peole a granule.

@@PelletJamie La machine que j’ai commandé a des rouleaux tournants et fonctionne sur prise de force tracteur, je vais la faire fonctionner avec un moteur diesel BMW de 140 hp, j’espère que j’aurai un bon débit de pellets car je ne veux pas y passer tout mon temps…🙂

@@lionelu2005 😅 ca va marche avec le moteur 👏! Parfait, les rouleux qui tourn sont meilleur. Le humidite dois etre 8-12% et il est plus vite si tu broyeur le paille avec une broyeur de marteau a moins de 5mm.

Hey.. I tighten my rollers down against the die plate with a fair bit of force with a large spanner so essentially 0 clearance.... Is yours a roller turned or die turned machine? What does it run off and size of engine? What trouble are you having?

@@PelletJamie it's a die turned machine, Diesel powered. Manufacturer says gap should be between .3 and .7 of a mm but there's no way on earth i can get it that close. Did you run yours in with sand/oil/sawdust or shavings ? Thanks for the reply.

@@vanderingadventures Yes to the die conditioning, doesn't do much though, just cleanes out the holes... what size is the motor? What size is the die plate?The height of the rollers doesn't really make that much difference.. I would tighten them after they have warmed up.... what is the problem, is it blocking and stopping or bad quality pellets? What material are you putting in? What moisture level? It is a bit of an art to doing it...the first time I used my pto machine in blocked and almost caught on fire because I added the material too quickly before it had a chance to heat up.

@@PelletJamie Mainly blocking up then stopping. I've had the grinding mix through it without it stopping, just, and that with a gap. Die is 250mm diameter and 20hp diesel engine. i've been slowly adding the mixture but the gap seems to be the issue. I'll let it run with the rollers touching for a bit, then lock them off before adding the mix. I'm using clean wood shavings at the moment. Cheers

@@vanderingadventures is it the 230mm 22hp? That should have enough grunt. Just a few things to go through... Did you specifically say when you bought the machine that it would be used for wood pellets? If not it could be you have an animal feed die plate... they are much thicker with higher compression ratios. Secondly what is the moisture content? Should be between 9-15% and MUST be measured and in that region. Thidly you mention they are shavings... it is better to reduce shavings down even further with a hammer mill or use sawdust... Hard or soft wood? Soft is easier. Fourthly and this is quite a big one... have you let the die heat up? It seems frustrating but it honestly takes 20-30mins for my pellet die to heat up... my tractor is 70HP so it doesn't stop but you still have to add the material in VERY slowly to start.... just little handfuls of oily materiall then slowly introduce straight wood material... once the die is warm after 20mins you can start adding it quicker. I highly doubt it is the clearance of the rollers... if you watch any of the Chinese use these things they just jam the rollers tight.... they say it wears out the rollers quicker but can't imagine it is a big problem.

m.alibaba.com/product/1906420532/Tractor-power-output-used-biomass-wood.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=Android Speak to Cealian at Laizhou Chengda Machinery, she is great and v.helpful. I am in no way affiliated or make any money from this.

We can provide from india

@@stockgain6731 Can you provide a link to your mill? It would be useful to compare.

Yes it is, I discuss it further in my other video. It is a 360mm Roller Turned PTO. The roller turned are much better than the die turned and produce a commercial grade pellet.

@@PelletJamie I'm thinking of getting one next year,what make is thet one you have.

@@thomasgoode1128 Hi Thomas, Good to hear you are getting on the pellet making train. The mill I have is just a generic china made one (99% of the ones in Europe are the same , some companies just put stickers on them, to give the appearance they aren't) Here is a link to this one from Alibaba m.alibaba.com/product/1906420532/Tractor-power-output-used-biomass-wood.html?__sceneInfo=%7B%22cacheTime%22%3A%221800000%22%2C%22type%22%3A%22appDetailShare%22%7D&from=Android&fromSite=wap&ck=share_detail Speak to Cealian there, she is great (I am not affiliated or make any money from them). Are you getting a PTO driven?

I might get one with a pto

@@thomasgoode1128 I think the PTO is the best way to go. You have to be less precise with the humidity of sawdust on input and the shipping costs (which are pretty heavy) are reduced. Certainly look for a roller turned rather than die turned as the quality of pellet is better.

Bonjour Rachid, le pre mix c'est broyage de feuilles (tu peut utiliser mais ou farine ou quelque chose douce) avec 10/15% huile moteur. Pour le premier utilisation de le presse tu peut met le sable fin de dans aussi pour poli les trous. C'est plus important a met cette mix apres utilasation donc les trou sont pas bouches, parce que si tu laisse les bois de dans et arreter la presse il est tres dur et besion percer pour le prochaine utilasatin. Bonne chance.

@@PelletJamie merci infiniment Jamie Andrews pour ses precieux conseils.

hello, you plan to establish a pellet factory?

@@amosicronery7730 We want to use this for oureself and the rest to sell . We have a moulding company for a long time now and we get no money for our sawdust now !

Cheers