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Any thoughts on the ordinary sacaromyces 30% milky toner?

Had no idea, and recently bought a TH-cam dermatologist brand product treating hyperpigmentation, touting arbutin among other actives. Seems like it’s the Wild West in advertisement of skincare actives these days😅

Dang, arbutin was riding those coattails of hydroquinone hard it seems like. Disappointing to say the least! I recently got the ordinary 2% arbutin. By the way, is there any difference between alpha arbutin and arbutin? I wondered why the “alpha” wasn’t pronounced for the ordinary. A question: the bar graph for the study of 1% arbutin vs 1% ellagic (?)-does that show 70% decrease in hyperpigmentation, or rather 30% decrease with 70% remaining? I saw the before and after pic of the 1% ellagic and was not really convinced about seeing ~60% improvement if that’s the correct reading of the graph. Is arbutin considered a cosmetic rather than a drug? I wonder why it’s usually sold at 2% while the studies have included 4-7%. Are those prescription strengths? I had heard about treating arbutin use similar to hydroquinone use in the way of being careful with it as hydroquinone can cause hypopigmentation. If arbutin does not really target the evolution of melanocytes in the way hydroquinone does, does that mean that it doesn’t have similar hypopigmentation possibilities? And doesn’t share concerns such as the length of time to use it? By the way, is hydroquinone the only hyperpigmentation tackler that can cause hypopigmentation and that should be used under supervision/not used for prolonged periods? I haven’t heard of other tyrosinase inhibitors actually affecting the number of “fingers” melanocytes grows. It seems that like azelaic acid perhaps 2% alpha arbutin is another one that should be used day and night as it’s not that strong? 😢 Thanks for keeping the world of skincare real. Also, it was neat to see the pictures and videos for the animal fun fact. I am looking forward to next week’s episode!

I have seen products that tend to combine arbutin with other ingredients that would be recommended for hyperpigmentation like the Faded from Topicals, bolden eye patches, skinmade, jj labs, peace out, maelove, platinum, lanmeri, etc. But what about the so-called arbutase that you see in derm compounded formulas like the Coleman one which has 4% and usually cost over $100?

Is peg400 is safe on skin

Can resveratrol and euk be mixed.

Thank you for this!

Apparently the Skin Aqua gels are marketed and used mostly ask body sunscreen in Japan (although it’s popular for face outside of JP). The essence versions are marketed for the face so I wonder if they apply easier with less rubbing. There’s also a newer addition to the Skin Aqua like called the Super Moisture Barrier UV Gel/Essence. It’s supposed to be a bit more tenacious than Moisture Gel/Essence. I haven’t tried it yet but it’s on the list for next summer.

Do you double cleanse? Whats thd name of the cleanser

Question for the guys who shave, usually I exfoliate before I shave and my face. Usually because of the razor my face gets a bit irritated and sometimes gets small cuts. What type of moisturizer or other products would you recommend? Hydraulic, glycerin, urea? I shave once a week at night using a AHA exfoliant.

awesome !!

Hi 🎉 curious abt Fromrier EGF cica water sun ampoule, have you tried it before? Its loved by ppl in south korea recently

Glad i’ve found this channel. Thx for sharing abt TTO.

When the under eye fat pads atrophy it contributes to the appearance of dark circles for several reasons depending on a persons anatomy. There is really isn’t any muscle in that area and the skin is very thin so without the layer of fat blood vessels and even bone (I know that sounds crazy) is visible through the skin. In addition the now hollowed out area can have a shadow of sorts cast from the nose and upper portion of the face. Some people try to put filler there when this happens but it often worsens the dark circles as the actual filler is visible through the skin.

I have dry acne prone skin, should i go for mandelic acid or lactic acid?

The flashing of the images 🥺 I wanna read too 😢

I was wondering why in Skincare Decoded it was recommended for oily skin types to start with mandelic acid, which is generally considered to be gentler than lactic acid. Doesn’t oily skin handle more of a beating? But it makes more sense now if mandelic acid has some similarity to salicylic acid. It seems that chemists confessions doesn’t hold salicylic acid in the same regard as it’s generally held in. Is there a case to think of mandelic acid as in some way superior to salicylic acid?

Hey can i get Mr reliable moisturizer.. I live in india??

That’s interesting to hear about 2% salicylic being overly much for most people if not everybody. If there wasn’t really a need to compete with other brands the percentage of salicylic acid perceived to be best, what would the cosmetic chemist recommendation be for an amount of salicylic acid helpful for preventing acne, or dealing with an existing breakout? That’s also interesting about the recommendation for the salicylic acid cleanser instead. I have heard that salicylic acid cleanser doesn’t given near enough exfoliating effect to be helpful compared to leave on exfoliant. Has the science perception of effective salicylic amounts changed over the years? What do you think of brands saying that 1-2% is the effective level? The Ordinary has come out with a 0.5% salicylic treatment, and also a 5% niacinamide emulsion (versus their very popular 10% gel serum). As far as I know no on is really sounding a bell about salicylic acid percentages. I wonder if the brand is getting ahead of the curve? While their new 5% niacinamide is a late response?

Stephanie Vista

Hello, just wondering but what is it about niacinamide that might make it good for barrier support, but not be a soothing ingredient or a redness helper? Also, is it true about niacinamide helping the skin produce ceramides?

Too much laughing make it sound a bit silly sorry but I wanted to point out

can I use a retinol eye cream both am and pm? these studies all seem to be 2x a day

Hmm, I'm imagining some derms mentioning sunscreen and dark glasses. And as to genetics, Dr. Idriss has said in some of her videos on dark eyes/puffy eyes that can be a factor and to look at family members. The Ordinary has their caffeine and green tea serum for dark circles so I'm guessing the green tea is the hero?

what about vitamin K?

I've been using adapalene for over 20 years. I have no wrinkles and no dark spots.

Wait new edition!? I just ordered the first one a couple months ago 😭😭☠️☠️☠️

How to genetic or pigment dark circle? I did patch test and that pigment didn't go back. But my dark circle are 8 9 years old

I have dark circle like 8 9 years.. they getting worse day by day. I maintain sleep cycle.what Should do

Now that I had time to watch the whole thing, I had some reflections. The penetration thing was a huge insight. And for sure the biggest anti-aging results we’ve seen anecdotally in people is when used during/after in-office procedures. For topical use I think there are huge promises but not exactly anti-aging which requires penetration to the fibroblast - the biggest promises for topical use seem to be for skin conditions such as superficial scarring, rosacea and other types of inflammation on the skin - but these claims will take longer than the cosmetic ones to get approved. Thank you so much for diving deep into this - I’m gonna save a lot of money because of it 🥹💙

This was incredibly helpful! Will check out the full episode. Thank you!

first like and comment!

Most of the studies test using Glycolic Daily and all dermatologists/cosmetologist advice once or twice per week, so I am so confused - How many times per week can I use glycolic acid 10% with 3.5-3.9% Ph and see results based on research? My skin is not sensitive. And why all the studies test it applying daily and we get recommendations of using it only a few days per week?#confused, please help ;)

I would love to hear the next dive in of Growth factors in general, people keep swearing that Allies of Skin 200 dollar EGF factor tighten their skin and I wonder if that is backed with science? TH-cam Hot and Flashy made an extensive video going through many research papers on the topic and says that there is no good evidence from the independent studies --> th-cam.com/video/4K1FrFVlXOc/w-d-xo.html

I LOVE your podcasts!! As a physician, I feel like I am back in medical school (but more fun). When you have time, information on skin care for people with Ehlers Danlos (like myself) would be unique and well appreciated. Thank you!!!!!!!!

Neither actives relate to my skin care goals but thank you for the information! ❤

I like Curel Ultra Healing Cream on my very dry skin. Two years ago I had a terrible experience with my skin on my hands. It was extremely itchy and I had dark bumps all over my hands (looked like hyperpigmentation although it is not) due to excess scratching. It is also not eczema but I do have eczema on some of fingers. I tried Eucerin Roughness Relief and it was great. Later I found Curel Ultra Healing Cream and tried it, fell in love with it and never stop using it since. Curel is better than Eucerin because it is very light and yet very hydrating. Light and hydrating is important to me since I live in a tropical country as any heavy cream will tend to make me feel uncomfortable when it's hot and humid. In a short one year my skin heals, smooth and 99% of the bumps are gone. Even my family notice it and my hands are now smooth to touch. Many creams have ceramide in it but not all are the same and only these 2 brands works on my skin. The only caveat is that they are very expensive in my country and I could only buy them online.

Can you please do a video discussing the potential of tretinoin/retinol to cause dry eyes? It may not have been studied but there are so many anecdotes out there, and I would like to know if there is any theoretical reason to be cautious. For example, even if you avoid the eye area when applying, is it possible that it is absorbed by your body and then affects your eyes, or can it migrate in the skin to reach your eyes? I’ve heard a lot of people say that.

Plated unexpectedly resolved a very serious scar on my face. I wasn't using it for that purpose. The scar is from when I was a kid.

Such an interesting episode! Would love to know your take on the formulation of the Reviv Serums Ultimate Serum.

Can tretinoin be used all over the body for anti-aging purposes? Well more like prevention purposes. I’m just 26 but if I can get to old age looking my best "naturally" I would love that.

Is there any research on exosomes/conditioned media for hair loss? Thoughts on Neogenesis and Anteage? Are they credible sources with exosomes? Thanks

cool!

I used adapalene and it is milder on my very sensitive eczema prone skin compare to tretinion 0.05% / 0.25% I don't have irration from adapalene unlike tretinion. I used tretinion on and off for years but it is still very irritating for me so I still cannot use it every day.

So tretinion is still better than retinol, I guess.

Hey guys, love you content, can you do a deep dive on Panthenol?

Also I really enjoyed the animal fun fact this episode. Even though it was part existential horror it was also uplifting and nice to have something that can be done for the frogs. Giving them saunas.

It was great when you talked about “what’s coming down the pipeline” such as plant exosomes. And why not to buy into that hype train. It’s cool to have your jaded industry expert insight. The way you guys feel about things can be a takeaway for me even if I really don’t understand all the science. Also props to Victoria for keeping the podcast going, segmenting for time, expectations. All helpful frameworks.

Thank you for the valuable information!!!! Keep it up 🎉🎉🎉

Can you talk about exosomes? Growth factors, as it relates to cancerous cells OR cells that attack themselves as in autoimmune diseases that many people have. Sorry, I realize that's a pretty loaded request, but I imagine could dictate outcome - especially with those with body Psoriasis.