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I've never had that issue so not sure what is going on. First, I'll assume that you have the small o-ring that fits in the back after you unscrew the "black plastic" that holds the nib.I've never had any ink in the clear part that hold the "black plastic" part. I also have never or never had to separate the actual nib from the black plastic part.. again unscrewing the complete black-plastic w/ nib and not loosing the o-ring is all that I needed to do. Hopefully someone else with your issue can chime in.

I don't have this car any longer, but when I did, and from what I remember my clock wasn't working either and after the fix, the issue was still there. My car lasted over 300K so if you have the ability to do so, best to send the instrument cluster in to be repaired professionally then you'll get many years of enjoyment. In terms of the lights, you will want to replace "ALL" the bulbs behind the cluster once you get into it. You'll just need to find either original incandescent light or newer LED's which I didn't have at the time. Hopefully others can share their experience and answer your question better.

The bottom part of this unit that breaks off actually doesn't touch any of the liquid/coffee , but doesn't stay on very well either. Some prefer the glass version of Hario, a personal preference, others like the plastic because of its heat insulating properties and retention of heat.

I think the product on amazon has changed. The back of the phone holder does not look like that and I do not know how to connect that metal piece to it

@@alexandermilleriii499 I updated the amazon link to one similar to my original one. There are more.. just need to do a search for " cell phone holder vent mount" on amazon or elsewhere and look for ones where the clamps can be tightened. the one you saw with the clip "may" work if you drill a hole that allows for the clip to attach to similar to a vent louver - otherwise fining one that attaches and tightens is the easiest. Good luck!

Helo. Its been a while since I had that car, but I don't recall specifically looking and/or seeing that code via an ODBC. What I set out to do at the time was to do what most had done in order to deal with the issue that was coming up rather than the specific code. Hopefully others who see your question can comment.

Hopefully others can chime in, but its been a long time since i had that car. From an engineering standpoint, if "re-flowing" the solder for any of these components "fixes" issues vs. out-right replacement, then it makes sense to "re-flow" as many high-number pin components as possible which you have the cluster out, just like you'll want to replace all the bulbs while you do this work vs. replacing only the burned ones. At the time, I'm guessing I too relied on other youtubers or online contributors to determine the most likely culprits for the issues..

I agree.. that was one of my first videos.. a little better now.

Did you ever do it?

I got rid of my Volvo about a year ago. It had over 300K miles on it. If it didn't have a blown head gasket (probably due to an old trip in Arizona where the car had to be running with the AC on the side of the road in 120 deg temps) this car would have easily gone for another 100K miles if it continues to be well taken care of. I share this because if this is a car you'd like to keep, spending $600 is a good deal. Just make sure they replace all the bulbs in the process - thats a pain to have a bulb go out after a repair. I went through this process at a time where cash was a BIG issue and had to make this car work over a weekend and at the time I could not be without a car for over a week to send the cluster for repair. Anyway, good luck with this and don't forget the comment about powering down the car and draining any residual charge (if I remember correctly).

Absolutely. Thanks for your comment. In most cases you have to get the full setup. Making a DIY contraption like this, allows you to configure any third party phone holder..not just ones made for VW Tiguans. I made this because I wanted to re-use my existing holder that I used on a Volvo I not longer had. I didn't want to buy a setup dedicated to just a Tiguan, specially since I wasn't keen on keeping the car long term.

Would you mind posting these please.

yea, but I cant find them now on aliexpres or temu

Yes, my clock did go crazy after the repair. Not sure what caused that.

for a clean log start

Thats a good question. Its been a while since i've had this Volvo but I remember when I was looking at the online company that provided the repairs for these clusters , that was not an option or at least one still needed to send in one's own cluster so that they could "program" the donor one. This at the time made me believe getting one from the junk yard was not an option. You will want to research that further.

They all have the same issue even if you replace it eventually it will go bad, and that is exactly what I did, first tried to fix myself and it worked for a bit and then replace one from junk yard and it broke again, I've been looking for a replacement at the junk yards for months now, nothing, ebay nothing, amazon nothing, not many out there and you have to match the exact part number not just the year/model at times, but buying new its not an option $1200 per unit for model, it costs more than the vehicle at this point.

@@MylifeMB can I use different year dashboard I have 2003 s60 and wondering if I can use like other 2007 Volvo dashboard that look the same

You're not the only one discovering this - Waiste of time !!!!

This video is really not about re floating surface mount devices. In fact, I think by now there are lots of better sources and tutorials on this subject. this is more about how to go about dealing with this issue if you are at a dead end. Refloating is/was definitely not my expertise!

i realize it's kinda randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to watch newly released movies online ?

@Wells Fernando i use Flixzone. Just google for it =)

I contacted Volvo and the only problem with doing that is it will store the memory from the last car, kilometers etc... And it won't match the VIN. You'd have to take it to a Volvo dealership and get it mirrored and a software upgrade.

That company was called Volpar and not sure if they are around any longer. In general you would be better served replacing these bulbs with an LED equivalent if possible since the incandescent onces tend to burn out quickly.

Gabriel, Hi. I can't really help you on this personally. I only did this for my personal car and I did this work at a time where this felt like the only option. Here are some thoughts. (a) These cars are great cars. I have close to 300K miles on it, that's with 100K miles after a head gasket issue. These will run a long time if you choose to fix them properly. If you have the means and flexibility to get it done properly, I highly recommend this since its easy to "screw" up the cluster if you do something wrong. At the time I did this video, the instrument cluster could be sent to a company (google search) that will take the instrument cluster and repair it properly and return it to you. If you don't feel comfortable removing the cluster yourself, you can take it to a volvo mechanic to remove. The only downside is that you won't be able to drive it away at that point and will need to allow the car to sit at the mechanic till you get it shipped/fixed/returned. If you choose to remove it yourself, just remember to disconnect the battery before doing so. That the best suggestion I have. Good luck.

Sounds like your CEM is going bad

@@lk-oy6zu Sold it and don't care anymore. Cheers!

Hey Olli, did you fix it?

@@gangigooga7710 Didn't have to. I learned the heater controls so i don't need the screen to start it up. Besides, the heater broke in November so it doesn't matter anymore. Just gotta check fluids every now and then as i can't check the screen for problems.

Yazaki gauges, actually...

LED for me

Peter, I tend to agree with you.. I would recommend sending it to a pro to do the work. This is a last resort on a car that's not worth much to keep. Mine has been working fine except for the clock. Regardless, your response would be helpful to others if you had more to share than "Terrible".

Nice to hear it worked for you..

I did it the same way, reheated all pins individually for 3-4 seconds with a professional Metcal soldering station with a fine tip. It was not so easy to remove the blue gunk, so I did the reheating without removing it. I put the tip right at the border between the pin and the PCB pad. Some of the blue stuff bubbled away. I have had intermittent pixel problems on the dot-matrix display, so I removed the 2 flex-cables and cleaned the contact surfaces. You push the white parts toward the card edge to release the connectors. There was no heat transfer paste for the voltage regulator, so I added that (both sides of the small heat sink). I added solder to the 3 identical chips you can see in the upper right corner from 20:46 The DIM works OK now. It is a 2003 V70 with 317000 km (200 000 miles).

well, I hear your frustration.. the challenge of modern cars.. Thanks for your comment.