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Ok when I saw your ig post I was in work so I couldn’t hear it properly, there’s a chance it’s the bottom end that’s shit the bed… if you see no excessive signs of wear on the cam do compression test

Is he still doing these repairs?

What is that gray cable with the white end for. for?

When i got the red triangle on my prius 2 dashbord, my combined voltage was 235v . I had only one module under 7v (6,5v ) . If i had changed only one module , the problem may have been solved. But i wasn't happy with a temporary fix. So i decided to load test all my 28 modules and the result was scaring. My modules were in very very very bad conditions. Before cycling the modules i decided to rebalance them in parallel for 3 days. All 28 modules minus the bad one were 7.90v on average . The first load test series was using a lamp bulb 3amp ( 10mn 30mn 50mn 60mn ) i discharged to 5.4v per module 0.9v per cell After that i charged all the modules up to 8.80v This allowed me to see which modules were at their best capacity and which ones were discharging very fast. I only keep track about the ones who could hold 7v after 30 mn discharge at 3amp After 3-5 cycle discharging charging My best modules had only 3500 mAh capacity after deep discharge .. most of my modules have only 2000mAh capacity after 5 cycles Cycling all my bad modules will take me another month from now with 3 tiny charger dischargers from amazon. I'm not on a hurry because i ordered 12 grade b modules from an ebay seller from usa. Shipping will take 3-4 weeks to Europe. My goal is to find the best 16 modules from the 28 from my old hybrid battery. . And to mixe them with the grade B ones i purchased online 4500mAh + . The best modules i have in my 28 modules would be rated grade D to C ... That being said, all i'm trying to do is also a temporary fix . Replacing a bad module voltage related is just a piece of the equation. You could recharge a bad module to 8.50v and it will discharge to 5v in 120 seconds at 3 amp . You could also charge a good grade C module to 8,5v and it will discharge to 7,30v after 30 minutes at 3amp. After this fix, i will probably sell my car or purchase a new battery. Load testing , cycling , rebalancing , etc... Just temporary fix 😢😢😢

Awesome. Thank you

Great video thanks bro 👍

not a good explanation

Thak you so much u really save me hours and all my nervous sistem with that white cable

Top tip thank you

do u know the inner size of them fuel lines i want to buy now but not sure on the inside mm

Thankyou mate you just saved me a shit tone of money 💰👍👍💪

K.I.S.S.

That last plug I can’t get never get out

Hi I have a vw passat diesel, my daughter put the wrong fuel in it(regular gas) I siphon all the gas out of the tank and the gas filter too can this process (your example here) work on my car without damaging the engine... thanks for your future replay

Thanks My wife lost our only key. Now I am on your channel Thanks for posting

Thanks Shane. I just did this on my 2008 Quest, using your video as a guide. I had to watch your video 2 or 3 times, at certain points, but I figured it out and everything came out fine. I'm an intermediate mechanic and this took a 1.5 hours. I could do it again in 20 minutes now that I know how to do it. My replacement motor is also missing the ability to stop when the window is all the way up. I didn't know this was an option when ordering my cheap Amazon replacement. Since mine was the passenger side, and won't get as much use, I'm going to leave it. Thanks again!

Awesome. No more syphon. Thanks

Making use of the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxcJ22tnHH9l1vjdIdEIG27iOG55P7LXI8 reconditioning plan, I just saved 2 auto batteries from being completely junked. The guides were very simple to follow. I wish I would have found this years ago! You may use the guide to recondition any battery type

i found that my ignition switch had a dirty sensor inside the housing. Took out and cleaned the optical pathway and used cleaner to clean copper contacts which connect/disconnect with the insertion of the key. Now works. Symptoms....inconsistent start and inconsistent turn signal and BAS ESP lights.

well this worked a treat :) faster than I thought as well

Thank you so much!! This was incredibly helpful. You saved me so much money.

Is the shut-off valve you're using from the Mercedes?

the audio sounds like a run down megaphone at a Chinese slave camp

nice

Shane , I'm trying to find out how to source WVO and how difficult that might be. Sounds like you live in the US like me. I would appreciate any help you might give me on how to do this. Thanks.

Hi Shane. Great video. I'm pretty sure my motor died but my current problem is that the window (passenger side) is stuck all the way down. I have no idea how to get it up. And help would be appreciated. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

Great video. Thanks.....I learned alot.

Did you have ti get the ignition program

Thanks for sharing my contact information in the description Shane. I just want to clarify my pricing. Spare key - This means you have one working key to send me. $110 for the just the programmed fob. $160 for the fob plus emergency key cut. All keys lost $160 includes emergency key. EIS Cloning $500 - includes a used working EIS. Be careful with the small two pin connector on your w210 switches guys. It can be a pain to pull out of the EIS. Many have broken this wire when removing their EIS. It’s the immobilizer wire. You’re car won’t start without this wire.

How fast/slow this works?

What about the n54-1 module, is this the same thing and where is that? I can't find it behind my dash in my 98 e300

I heard u have to do a deep discharge and charge a couple time for it to work properly. Is that correct?

Hello Shane, just wanted to know who would you recommend?

Hi Thank you for the video you made it to help a lot and I have a another question about the red triangle ?

Can you share this guy contact info? I also live in Cali

lets get these views up!!! Awesome video bro!

Camera work is horrible

That looks like a good one. Saves taking off fascia panels and messing with the pump relay

my key stopped working intermittently . now it is not unlocking the doors or being recognized in the ignition. Is my key bad or is it the EIS or something else? I only have 1 key for the car. I suppose I should buy another key but it is $400 at the dealership

Quite extraordinary. My Nissan Quest power window motor died and was looking for a relevant YT video. Thank you for the timely upload. It was very helpful.

Hey Shane great video, u r a Miracle worker, I have the same Prob, can u share info on who in California does it for that price, I have my EIS ready to go!!!!!!!

What's the name of the plastic probe you remover from the eis first? I snapped mine removing it today and have no idea what its' called! HELP

After replacing a hybrid battery on a vehicle do you Need to have a scanner to erase codes and reprogram the car ? Or you could just replace the battery and the car will work ? Im asking for a 2013 hyundai sonata hybrid .

Thanks so much for very helpful information good luck in your job men 😘❤️

Have you found any other reputable people that will repair these? Also can you leave the battery connected while you do this?

Where does one find new battery module for a prius 2006? All there is are used module.

What would you expect from someone who charges $120 for 2 keys🤦🏻‍♂️ that’s not a Toyota pal. No matter it’s old it’s still a Mercedes I don’t touch an EIS for less than $295 for one key and that’s if they hand it to me and I program key.

this saved me. i plugged the one port not knowing it needed to be vented to atmosphere and couldnt figure out why the truck wouldnt start

i think all of us were big beleivers in hybrid ..some of us even had a '1st gen' (looks like echo) .. then some of us thought 'it'll get better for 2nd gen' and it was better power wise .. but the same old weak nickelmetal hydride that reduces with heat and load over 5 years and after 10 is in emminent failure -- at that point of red triangle .u start changing your mind .. and when your break master cylinder (ABS pump) goes out sometime after 160k usually .. that gels in the 'lets get rid of this' -- though the mpg is good, the reliability goes down drastically after 125k (mostly in hot, wet climates) -- i heard super bad things about the engine in the 3rd gen prius .. (earlier models, 2010-2013) -- thx for helping people get them back to operation ..

I have done this four different times now, with about a year between errors. This method has been colloquially termed "whack a mole" on Prius chat (fantastic, informative forum, by the way), and while it often does work for a good while (especially with a battery pack that hasn't had the issue before), I can attest that it isn't the best way to go about it. You really need to load test (charge and discharge) each battery module to get a true idea of the battery health. While it often seems to be the case that a bad battery will show a lower voltage than the rest of the series, an equally important value is how the battery reacts to a load. It is entirely possible and perhaps even probably that you have batteries testing "strong" (7.5V+) but have a drastically diminished capacity, which you won't ever be able to see without a real load. Good tips on the corrosion, but I would like to add that you should looks and see if you have any water in/around the spare tire, 12v battery compartment, or really anywhere around the battery. There are actually cracks that form in the body of the car just under the rubber/plastic rail (this is what you would pull up for a roof rack install) that end up letting rainwater in. That rainwater makes its way under the trunk space and sits there. You may or may not get a mildew smell, but that constant dampness definitely contributes to the corrosion. The most recent time pulled the battery the terminals soaked in vinegar turned it blue. I am told sealing the cracks works, and have tried clear flex seal, though I cannot attest to that as the repair was too recent. Not trying to be critical, rather just sharing what I ended up learning along this relatively long journey. You can get a hobby charger on amazon for $60-80, so it's not too cost prohibitive. There are tutorials for this online (none of which are mine) and I genuinely wish I'd have gone that route when I first started. I have spent a lot of hours ripping the back of the car apart and putting it all back together LOL. Of course, the really BEST plan of action is to replace the battery with a new one. If one module fails, especially on an older car, it's entirely possible you are going to gradually see others fail. Toyota will sell you a new battery unit for around $1700 (plus $1400 core deposit). Just be sure that the dealer you buy from doesn't require a certified tech to pull it (no real reason to but if they do just contact another dealer). Of course, since you are here, you probably don't want to spend $1700, which I certainly understand as someone who has done this version of the repair multiple times now. :D