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The metal noise you hear i suspect it is pre ignition. Try higher octane fuel and if it still pinging may be a coil or something deeper. As for the oil consumption 800ml at 5000km it's moderate. Among other things it depends on the way you use the car, but it is not serious matter yet.

@@amtperformance7072 Thanks! Will try a higher octane fuel and see if the "metal clanking" noise is still there when warm and accelerating hard. Forgot to mention its only in a very specific RPM range (possible between 1500 and 2500).

@@franklupker9293 It can be opened but even then you dont have access to the circuit board to repair it. I've tried but no. It is not worth the effort.

Aha, thanks, took it out, but today will screw it in. Bought second hand Abs pump, screw the electronic part of and try to install in the car today, maybe it helps to get my Speedometer back to work. @@amtperformance7072

@@lamondaforestry Ετσι που τα λες ειναι ακριβως. Ο 1SZ-FE ειναικατα πολυ πιο αξιοπιστος και δεν χανει ιδιαιτερα σε αποδωση.

@@MrPabsUkThere is sealant between crank carrier and block. Later on the video you can see it , but i didn't record while applying it Thanks for the comment!

@@amtperformance7072 Fair enough! When you put the carrier on, there was no sign of it! As a fellow mechanic of over 3 decades, I like your process, & so would be happy for you to work on an engine for me! 😎

@@MrPabsUk Thanks man. I appreciate it! You are right the first time was test assembly that's why i didnt put sealant.

thank you! on your YARIS which brand and type you use? 0w20 or 5w30? i would like to give a try. thanks

All you say is correct. But the oil control ring design in these engines are prone to clogging and not let the oil return. Toyota fixed that in the newer versions of these engines and the problem was solved.

@@amtperformance7072 καλησπέρα σας! μπορείτε να μου πείτε Ελλάδα που είστε ή κάποιο link ή τηλ επικοινωνίας παρακαλώ? ευχαριστώ

@@cocodomeno Hello. It is highly possible that this smoke is from oil residue in the exhaust system from the previous turbine. Unless you drive it hard so the exhaust system is put to some serious heat, the smoke will take some time to vanish. Thanks for the comment!

@@amtperformance7072 I wouldn't want them to be the valve rubbers...

@@cocodomeno the valve seals smoke a little when the engine is cold. When you warm the engine the seals will not let oil to pass them. So probably it is not the problem.

@@amtperformance7072 the car smokes when cold but it's not oil but water having a 63.5mm exhaust with 120mm tips, I only get oil smoke when I accelerate on a descent, if I go downhill accelerating always it never smokes, for this we don't understand what's wrong with the car. if it was residue it should always smoke, I pulled it goes very well and I reached 936 degrees of egt at 248 km/h, engine oil at 107 degrees, so it has seen high temperatures, I removed the spark plugs and they are dry there is no oil

@@cocodomeno check the oil return line. If it is not completely free it can cause a problem like this. Otherwise it seems that you have to check deeper....

Καλησπέρα. Η συγκεκριμένη επισκευή άγγιξε τα 2000€ μαζι με σετ συμπλέκτη. Ορισμένα εξαρτήματα αλλάζονται προληπτικά σε τέτοιες περιπτώσεις.

@@amtperformance7072 ευχαριστώ πολύ για την πληροφορία σας

@@billlll23εγω δεν εχω συναντησει να μην υπαρχει τουλαχιστον σε 4ZZ. Το 1ZZ δεν το εχει π.χ. οσο για την θερμοκρασια που λες δεν το αποκλειω να φταινει αυτο αλλα το θεωρω λιγο δυσκολο. Ελεγξε το ψυγειο σου και το θερμοστατη. Αυτα ειναι πιο πιθανες αιτιες.

If you service it more frequently than the schedule book it will last longer for sure!

@@amtperformance7072 I service it every 6,000 miles

@@nikospar.100 Ναι γινεται. Απλα χρειαζεσαι μοτερ σασμαν (γιατι του d4d ειναι πολυ μακρύτερο) πλεξούδα και εγκέφαλο. Στην ουσία χρειαζεσαι ενα τροπετο για να παρεις ολα αυτα τα εξαρτήματα. Δεν νομιζω οτι σε συμφέρει. Καλητερα πούλησε το και παρε ενα εργοστασιακό d4d.

Να του βάλω αέριο lpg? Έχω κ εγώ το πρόβλημα.

@@nikospar.100 Αν εχεις το προβλημα και του βαλεις υγραεριο σε 2-3 μηνες το πολυ θα χρειαστει να λυσεις μοτερ.

@@derpy_kirby9239the later models aIQ after 2009 was equipped with the revised rings from the factory. So check what model is the car you want to buy. Other than that unfortunately you cant determine what rings are on the pistons.

Hello. We are in Crete. Why do you ask?

Thanks man! It was regularly serviced and behold the results. You do the right job to change the oil frequently. It's the engines' life.

@@cp.k6273 hello! For this kind of job with all the new components ( oil and water pumps, timing components, bearings, pistons, machine shop and labour) about 2000€

@@amtperformance7072 thanks for replying. Do you have a email? I might be interested

@@kaki868 Hello. Unfortunately the compression test will not help to locate the problem. Maybe a leak down test will help you see the sealing of the cylinders but maybe not. Because the first 2 rings may not be worn enough to show a significant reading. It will show you the condition of the valves and if everything is close to speifications then the only thing that can cause so much oil consumption is the oil rings.

I don't speak spanish either but... Muchas gracias amigo!!

If my understanding is correctly, the belt will lose width over time. Sometimes looking a bit frayed. There's loads of info to find about all kinds of cars and recommendable advise. Haynes have a pretty decent list for the Fiesta mk7 that shows you when you should be changing things. Of course real life experience and opinions may differ.

You are right about the two holes in the ring land. But also the oil ring design itself was not allowing much of the oil to return to crankcase. The best way to solve the problem( given that you have reached so deep in the engine) is to change the pistons and rings with newer design like them shown in the video. Thanks for the comments!

@@amtperformance7072 I had this problem in my previous car. Now i got Auris from 2012/13 1.33 VVti (1NR-FE) and i use amsoil 0w20 with detergent base based on magnesium not so on calcium it is more expensive oil but it keeps engine clean. For now i got no oil consumption problems but it is only 80`000 km. For now everything is ok, hope it will stay this way :) I change oil every 15 months (i do less than 7`000km and i checked oil sample in the lab that is why i change it every 15 month not 12)

Hello. I suspect a vacuum leak on the intake manifold side. Your idle is dead smooth or it fluctuates even a little? If it is, most likely there is a leak. There are some small vacuum hoses that probably are the cause of this.

​@@amtperformance7072 Thanks for your reply. My mechanic had a look at the issue I described and actually blamed the Throttle body or any sensor / valve connected to it. He said that ideally the complete throttle body should be replaced for a better result. They cleaned it up completely but it didn't help much. Due to the high mileage, there's a natural wear down. When idle, RPM doesn't fluctuate but it stays a bit lower than what is expected and the car vibrates a little. They connected the car to the diagnostics but they didn't tell me of anything related to vacuum leak, although I may ask them to check for that just in case and maybe replace the manifold gasket. At least it's inexpensive. If I have to replace the full intake manifold that can be really expensive... I hope not. I'm still knocking my head on this high revvup thing when changing gears and to me this can't be normal or standard... But I might end up getting used to it. Well, thanks a lot again for your analysis and support!

@@fabiomartins1866 It' almost impossible for the throttle body to wear at a state that it is not working properly. The engine on the video had 435000 km and the throttle body worked perfectly. BUT. Right under the butterfly there is an electronic valve that adjusts the air passing when the throttle is closed. The cavity inside is very difficult to clean but if you disassemble the valve you can clean the cavity. Of course you must take the throttle body off the manifold to do it. Of coarse if you replace the entire throttle body it will work fine. But it is that valve which is not working not the body. Insist to your mechanic to dismantle and clean it. At least it is much more cheap than replacing the whole unit and i'm certain that it will solve the problem. Greetings!

Have you retracted the tensioner all the way back? The tensioner lobe must be at 9 o clock aproximately. Also have the inlet cam sprocket bolts lose so it can rotate slightly. If you still cant put the belt on, maybe the tensioner or the belt are wrong for this engine.

@@amtperformance7072 if i was able to i could of sent u a picture of the tensioner but idk which way to retract the tensioner it’s the right belt and tensioner it’s a 2004-2005 volvo s40 2.4i

and plus i don’t have a engine hoist so i’m not able to take the engine out of the car so i’m stuff with doing it while the engine is in the car

Either way you turn it ,the allen key must be at 9 o'clock (left).

How frequent you change the oil and what type you use? Also how much mileage has the engine?

I have rebuilt quite some of these engines and yes the problem is solved. One of them have almost 160k on the clock after the rebuild without any problems. Of corse you should not neglect to change the oil at 10k or more frequent. It is much more cheap than engine overhaul!

@@amtperformance7072 thank you for answer. We bought a car in a condition like that

Thanks for the comment. Can you explain why it's wrong sealant please?

I dont see what sealant it is but you put too much it. Volvos own sealant is part number 1161059 , also Loctite 510 is proper stuff. Sealant must be anaerobic so it hardens when it does not have any air. If your sealant is like that its ok but dont put it so much. Sorry my english, i live in northern europe. 😋

@@amtperformance7072you are supposed to use an anaerobic sealant. Not RTV silicone sealant.