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@@mikemitchell7575 It will still run not sure what effect it poses to the engine most likely none. My light was on for around 4 months before I was able to fix it. I never noticed an issue. It is not a direct sensor so it is not used by the computer to control drive ability like fuel control, spark or emissions. It is used by the computer just let you know it is sensing a knock of some kind that can be a danger to the engine. It will leave your light on and if you have to get a smog check it will fail.

@stuntcountry8488 I just wonder why more people don't do away with them, since the seem to give so much trouble , and just take their chances...what year did knock sensors start to be used on vehicles ...

Oh wow surprised you didn't get a code. Ideally you want to soldier or crimp green to green and blue to blue. You could also join them all to one but then it would be only one sensor. My only worry is once you fix it all you might get a code. The old saying if ain't broke don't mess with it. Or you could try it and see but with the caveat it could cause it to code. Really just a choice. Best of luck.

Your welcome. Yeah it can be a nightmare sometimes dealing with codes like this. Mine was very similar as well. It all checked good except my sensors had varying resistance. After removing the intake twice I wasn't going to do it a third time until no more codes. As far as a lifter typical kinda noises like low oil probably not but if you got a lifter going bad maybe. If you remember the years prior they had the single knock sensor on the lower side of the block never had issues. This was just another bad design change placing the sensors were they are now in my opinion. All I can tell you for sure is what I did and that it worked for my truck. It has been almost two years and still no codes. Since it works just fine where they are at I am leaving them. I did go with the AC Delco sorry can't remember if they had a blue dot or any other markings. Remember just test different spots as long as one is on the right and one on the left. Also don't increase your wire length it will change your resistance and insulate your sensor wires from the exhaust heat. I hope it helps.

If you don't want a knock sensor sure. It would become a fixed wire that does nothing. I would not suggest or recommend it. A knock sensor is needed to pickup early signs of engine trouble or wear that may not be audible. It will change resistance as a vibration is detected triggering the check engine light thus preventing possible major engine problems.

Hi, Mine is the 6.0 so I had plenty of space and places. Remember it's just got to be one on the right and one on the left. Just need to find a different space. If you remember all the older models had the single knock sensor almost in the center of the right side of the block. You just need to find a spot and you should be good to go.

@stuntcountry8488 thanks for the reply ... yea I think it's because there a point bolted to the upper bolt the only available one is the on on the bottom I have one (ebay) bolted to the front by water pump but want to tuck them because some smog techs migth make a deal about them being by the exhaust .... I have seem some people use a male to female spacer to space it out a bit but my concern is the heat... where you have them at has better appearance and further away from the heat of the exhaust

I noticed the same thing you did with the ohm after couple sets of ebay ones and taking the intake manifold off 3 times .... there's also a difference in the voltage when u tap.on the engine from the ebay to oe so maybe the ecu isn't able to read the same as a oe

Hi No symptoms just reoccurring codes.

im having the same problems bro ever find out why ?

@@bruzkoldblooded1946 yes it was the fuel pump

Wherever it will fit and not get torn up or burnt up pretty much. You just want one on the leftside and one on the right-side of the engine. Chevy had the knock sensor on the side of the engine for a long time and it was easy to access. This was a bad design change to put them under the intake.

AC Delco

Yes I agree. I have done that in the past with other sensors. TPS as an example

@@stuntcountry8488 Knock sensors are actually a piezo transducer type microphone (a crystal microphone) that generates AC output signal level voltage can be read on a meter set for AC millivolt range if the sensor is tapped with a screwdriver handle to simulate a knock. How that is detected and read by the computer I am not sure but simply locating the sensors in an accessible location makes sense and an engine knock should be picked up anywhere on the engine. Putting a predictable replacement sensor underneath an intake plenum isn't exactly a love letter from an engineer, but is sadistic and asinine.

You can. I just left my old ones underneath. I bought a new harness and two new sensors. Over a year and still no codes or issues.

@@stuntcountry8488 thanks ima try it out!

Hi, Not sure really. The voltage may be a little high but really the amps is the killer. If the amps your voltage supply puts out is not way more than the battery it might work. I wouldn't go above 3 amps personally.

Hi, Book says 14 ft lbs but I personally wrench tighten until they are good and snug. I recommend the book specs if you haven't been working on cars since you were ten and have a good solid feel for tightening Knock Sensors. Kinda like a spark plug.

Wrap with Teflon Tape a Bunch, old Trick used on the Buick GrandNationals

Your welcome. That's a great idea! Forgot all about doing that. I use to wire in a potentiometer and adjust it until the car would run more stable when testing sensors. Best of luck!

I was thinking of making a new knock sensor harness with 14awg and maybe adding a 100k resistor but not sure.

Just hook the new knock sensor harness directly into the computer side harness. No tapping any wires. Just make sure to unwrap the knock sensor harness so you can run it where you need it.

Hi, It was a 2001.

@@stuntcountry8488 I can’t get over how tight that was to get that damn thing on there, but it worked. Thanks for sharing!

I did the same. Bought a complete set off ebay they didn't work still set codes. I went through 5 sensors and three harnesses before I got a good set. The final were all oem AC Delco I believe.

@@stuntcountry8488 so after the eBay ones you bought all OEM stuff? I heard from a few people that GM had a run of bad KS. The final parts that fixed the code weren’t installed in the stock location though as per the video, right?

Yes technically but they are still in the engine block just in different places. I tested the sensitivity and they work just fine in their present location. I am no stranger in regards to Chevy. I worked as a Chevy mechanic for thirty years at numerous dealers and independent shops with engineers at the plants and have numerous credentials yada yada doesn't matter. For years all knock sensors where not under the intake and most newer are not either, they are on the side of the block where they belong. It was a bad design change by Chevy like a lot of Chevy designs they try to change.

I only connected 2. 2 new sensors using a new wiring harness. I left the two sensors under the intake and the old wire harness.

@@stuntcountry8488 thank you

Yes there threaded holes all around the block that are a perfect fit. Check my follow up video. 1 year update.

@@stuntcountry8488 Can the resistance be measured with a multimeter prior to installation?

thanks well I hope it goes well for me and now thinking back into who did it to my wire's ,I'm in wow it was the smog shop last May 2023 I rem also he disconnected it and left it and it melted on the block ,lydh both are left side in between spark plugs so ,and it's a1994 TBI well her e goes . 🙏 a marie

oh I never messed with them I believe there fine it was the wiring I happend to come across is all

oh there the easy way there my 94 S10 has them already threaded both on block near spark plugs driver side and passenger also the wires have really been damaged and this time .I'm gonna wrap them w foil to real tight and if it gives me problems we'll it hadn't been all this started w my coolant temp sensor I can't believe other wiring issues I've got I'm grateful and feeling pretty confident LoL ty so much

I diid.. I cleaned all the jets with wire and flushed the fill tube several times. I mentioned that at the beginning of the video. It is a quick fix not a permanent fix for those who don't know how to fix it or can't afford to fix it.

Not on fixed low flow toilet valves. Low flow are not adjustable past a certain point because they are designed for low flow.

@@stuntcountry8488 That looks like a standard Fluidmaster 400A, which you can adjust the height of the fill valve as well as the height of the float cup. Feel underneath the float cup on the valve body. There should be a ring that pulls up that will allow you to adjust the height of the fill valve. Once you pull the fill valve up to its correct height, slide the ring down to lock it in place. Then adjust the float cup accordingly.

Disconnect the neg battery terminal and pull the air bag fuse; then go do something else for 20 or 30 min. And still be aware of the "line of fire" when you come back.

Facing the engine it is on the right side just about at the top on the backside at the firewall. There was an empty thread hole on my engine that I installed it in. All 8 cylinder engines should have it. Just like the ones I pointed out in the video. Hope that helps.

@stuntcountry8488 thank you, got to do something. Engine light comes on soon after I think I fix it. Going to try your fix.

@@garyeager6460 Make sure to check the resistance of your sensors and the harness. Mine are in the middle range of the specs.

@stuntcountry8488 how did you get two with Same resistance? Did you buy them. If they weren't what you wanted then returned them for new ones?

@@garyeager6460 Unfortunately I bought them first then figured it out about the resistance. I ended up buying 5 and couldn't return any. Take an ohm meter with you if you are going to buy them over the counter and see if you can check them why they watch. Just a thought.

I was against this idea of cutting the air duct at first. After watching several of the "remove dashboard" videos and how I'm famous for losing saved and ID bagged screws, I decided to cut the air duct and save myself time and migraines dealing with this repair. 👍😂😂

Unfortunately I had to find them by trial and error. I ended up buying a total of 8 different knock sensors and swapped them in and out until I found what worked. Based on the testing I did it just happened to be for me the knock sensors that had a measured resistance in the middle of the required range from the Chevy specifications.