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Nice! reminds me of the Niryo Ned 2 gripper. Just got done working with those in a robotics class I had.

can I Download the design ?

Nice video, as a robotics year 1 student, this is very helpful for me

great video, looking forward to see the next one!

excellent design❤

For making custom software to drive this it should be quite easy once you have the kinematics figured out, basically so you can set a position for the end of the arm and calculate what each joint angle should be. Then all you would need is a basic GUI similar to the jog buttons on the universal Gcode sender.

You can get silent stepper drivers for 3D printers too, the TMC2209 are commonly used ones. It’s generally cheap printers that have cheap stepper drivers and they are loud. More expensive drivers drive the coils more smoothly which is what reduces the noise, both by reducing coil whine but also just make the motor physically move smoother. I believe the TMC2209 drivers do it by using 256 step microstepping rather than the <16 steps that cheap drivers use, the TMC2209 drivers can be set lower to microstep counts like 32 but still internally use 256 step microstepping which is what makes them quiet. On most drivers microstepping increases current consumption and limits the speed of the motor and because of that some drivers have hybrid modes where they go loud beyond certain speeds for more torque and speed. Another advantage of more expensive drivers is that they have more advanced features, like SPI or UART communication, allowing you to change settings through that, like current limits, rather than having to turn the potentiometer on cheaper drivers. Some of the more advanced features are being silent, the ability to go into idle and low power modes, better current sensing and due to the current sensing it can tell when the motor is stalled which means you might be able to not use end stops, instead you drive the motor to the limits of its motion and you can tell when it stalls, which is what some printers do, like the Bambu labs ones I believe (but they use custom drivers).

The shield doesn’t really make more pins, it just lays out the pins in a better way for connecting the stepper drivers and other things. It does add extra power and ground pins but in terms of arduino pins it doesn’t make any more. Some shields might add more pins using gpio expanders or servo drivers though.

Maybe add cables and pulleys on each side of the lead screw, fixed to the top of the frame and a counterweight like for an elevator.

Additional support points on vertical rails are needed. You have only two of them - and they all tend to break due to the weight of the horizontal arm. Add additional carriages to the rails.

one of the best diy scara. i want to make one but little bit customized for my job. can you share the assembly ?

what is the software you use?

Good Job, this is from PCBWay, will you be able to look up the the note we dropped on your thingiverse?

Pretty darn good so far - nice work - congratulations. Those stepper to servo boards seem like a good advancement in technology and they seem to have decent driver chips as well. If I may, one or 2 observations... The servo that controls the outer arm ( "B" arm ) needs to be moved back to be above the pivot point of the first arm ( "B" arm ). Where it is right now it is causing a lot of force to be placed on the "A" arm stepper due to the inertial weight being maybe 100mm from the rotational axis and therefor moving at a higher speed than if it was directly above ( or at least MUCH closer to ) the pivot of the "A" arm. Also, double up on the linear bearings on the Z axis and maybe even think about going to 10 or 12mm rods spaced more widely to prevent the assembly that moves up and down from twisting left to right as the arm assembly swings around. The most stable 3D printed arms I saw were done in 2 halves along the length and the inside cavity was half round to take a carbon fiber tube. The whole thing was epoxied together and clamped to form the final arm. Carbon fiber tubes are highly resistant to torsional ( twisting ) forces as well as "bending" forces. My interest in Scara machines is that I want to build one ( eventually ) that I can use a spindle motor as an end effector and do engraving but for that to happen the tool MUST be restrained pretty well - in fact DARN WELL...

Hey. Quick question. How is your vacuum setup for your gripper so darn quiet? I have a venturi based vacuum generator and it makes a ton of noise.

Creative video, thank you :)

the belts for the Z axis are a good idea you should build that

Modul Record and Play stepper motor th-cam.com/video/h7tbJEj9OIs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FzChD8-6iRviWA4o

This is Super Cool! I would Love to Build One like this

If you scaled this up you would save massive electricity when heating water. Just preheat the water with this before you put it in your water heater

I dont think you can't find a lot of this in US, but in EUa a lot of rural houses use an array of about 8-10 long tubes plugged into the side of a isolated barrel, that is placed on the roof and filled with water. We use them to heat the water during the middle of the spring to the middle of fall.

I have a larger one of these, you can cook potatoes or hotdogs or any food in really. It works very well. So i bought an oil catch can that fits inside of it and made it a solar distiller. I have fresh water flowing from the sun. These things are so cool. I also have the long ones on my solar water heater on the roof.

It could have a reflector on the handle that might get it boiling

Is the inner lining plastic? Because that’s not good for you if so

what if its not sunny

Cover the top with a lid. It will get hotter

just put a black water bottle in sun?

Awesome job, on both the project and the video. I'll definitely be tuning in for your future builds! The filming and editing style reminds me a bit of both DIY Perks and Hyperspace Pirate, please, keep up the great work. I do think (emphasis that this is my opinion) that you're selling yourself short with the voice over, a better setup isn't always easy but I (my opinion) think it would make a difference. Can't wait for what you do next.

Buy it here : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DF8gh6D

!?

What grbl do u used,? Can u share the link of all softwire with more explained

Way cool man! Hey let me give you some tips. I assuming you are using GRBL with that arduino and step shield? I went down a similar path building non-CNC, non-3D printing applications (camera positioning robot and others) using that exact same setup and GRBL. I hit the limit of its capabilities rather early and found a much better alternative. First, the GRBL project seems to be abandoned so it is likely as good as it is ever going to be. Arduino is an 8 bit, 16MHz micro and GRBL is really asking more from it than it was designed to deliver. You will find that if you ever try to exceed 30-something kHz pulse output the controller will crash (maybe this happened already and you didnt know the cause, it took forever for me to figure out). Second, all is not lost! Check out the GrblHAL project. This is a fork of GRBL and is actively developed, new updates all the time. It offers much (MUCH) better control and it supports many boards that are way more capable than arduino. 32bit and 64 bit boards. It supports the trinamic stepper drivers with uart and SPI comms. So many of these fancy 3D printer boards will work. I currently have a SKR Pico board ($35, 4x TMC2209) running GrblHAL on one of my robots and it is almost silent. The motors are able to run many times faster than they were able to with arduino/grbl and take advantage of the modern TMC chips' shealthchop and spread features. Sensorless homing, and much more. The developer of GrblHAL also made a gcode sender called ioSender XL which makes configuration of parameters (including the TMC chip parameters) a breeze, no more looking up what $110 is and typing it into a serial terminal. You can type the motor current limit into a text box instead of that stupid finnicky potentiometer adjustment. Check it out, you wont be sorry. I recommend the SKR pico to replace what you're working with. It is probably actually cheaper than what you paid for arduino+shield+drivers and it is an all-in-one package with vastly better performance. There is GrblHAL firmware available for the SKR Pico via the online configurator linked on the github page. Hope this helps.

Please lower the acceleration parameters so you will obtain more fluid movements, $120 $121 $122

Very cool! You should make a video about the electronics, I would love to re-create this

That z-axis stepper might be noisy/skipping because it (looks like it) has weight on it perpendicular to the axis of rotation.

You need only two motors to do that. And it can be done much faster.

I'm upset the card didn't drop into the box all the way 😤

you should use micro step for smooth move

That's cool and all, but have you ever heard of "stepper.setAccelerationInStepsPerSecondPerSecond"? Please lower it. 😆

The stepper sound might indicate huge friction. My guess is that this friction come from the very unbalance design, all the load is on one side. 2 solutions to reduce this friction : 1) make a load on other side to balance the system (no so easy if you want it to balance perfectly your system, because when you will move your arm the mass repartition will change, but you could have fun with a moving load automatically balancing your system). 2) increase the stiffness of your system to avoid the misalign of the moving platform compared to the vertical axis , by adding another level on your stepper, (30 cm higher for example), linked to the bottom one with a rigid link. Good job anyway !

are you Raping that stepper with wrong voltage or is the stepper just realy bad

My god that stepper is loud 😂

looks good

Belts might be too tight, add rubber or foam underneath to dampen vibrations. Otherwise great work!

Thats sick!!

Simple and useful design, Use a good control over it, Use PID or adaptive control to reduce the jaggy movement

Instructions from the Avasva site are perfect for beginners.