- 17
- 30 007
Imagineer
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2021
Random vintage electronics, retro computer and gaming content.
Stationmaster 1967 Dual Standard TV
This is a video of a recently acquired 1967 Stationmaster Dual Standard B/W TV.
มุมมอง: 3 838
วีดีโอ
Introduction to Arcade PCBs, Superguns & Jamma
มุมมอง 1267 หลายเดือนก่อน
This is just an introduction video to Jamma arcade PCBs, Superguns and collecting. I also show off my arcade PCB collection and how I store them.
A quick look at a 1964 PYE 14U CRT TV
มุมมอง 6K8 หลายเดือนก่อน
I recently picked this up and it's in an untested state. I plan to restore this and also repair it, if it needs it. There will be more videos on this in the future. Since I haven't really worked on something this old. I will be doing more research in the meantime before I tackle it.
Ikegami TM20-17R Input Switching Repair
มุมมอง 255ปีที่แล้ว
Just a simple overview and repair of this Ikegami TM20-17R professional video monitor. The repair is to fix an input switching problem. Where the input is changed with the front panel, but nothing is displayed on screen. This repair should also work on the TM14-17R. Replacement Supercapacitor: uk.farnell.com/eaton-bussmann-series/kr-5r5h224-r/cap-0-22f-5-5v-super-cap-radial/dp/2909042 Ikegami S...
CRT Tester/Rejuvenator - Leader LCT-910A
มุมมอง 887ปีที่แล้ว
Overview of a CRT tester and rejuvenator. Very useful piece of kit for CRT repair. Link to find Heater and G1 voltage of a tube: tubular.atomized.org/
Rastan/Rastan Saga Arcade Jamma Board
มุมมอง 1682 ปีที่แล้ว
Just showing my newly acquired Rastan Saga arcade board and Supergun setup.
PC-FX Essential Collection
มุมมอง 1.2K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Unboxing the PC-FX Essentials Collection from PCEWorks. pceworks.wordpress.com/2021/12/24/pc-fx-essentials/#more-8266
PC-FXGA for the PC-9801
มุมมอง 1.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
This is essentially a PC-FX console on a card. Designed for the c-bus card slot of a PC-98 compatible computer.
JVC TM-H1750C PVM
มุมมอง 1.7K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Just a short video on my new JVC PVM. Previously owned by BBC Leeds.
Unboxing DESIRE for Windows 95
มุมมอง 1532 ปีที่แล้ว
Thought I would show off some pickups and unbox DESIRE for Windows.
Retro gaming Audio/video setup
มุมมอง 3.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
My retro gaming audio/video setup. My other channel: th-cam.com/users/MrSilentvid
Doom 2 Unboxing + Doom Randomizer
มุมมอง 1333 ปีที่แล้ว
Unboxing my recent purchase of Doom 2 (the US version) and showing off a Doom randomizer from 1995 (RanDoom.)
Gracias, es de mucha ayuda
Really good Equipment, for arcade restorations,i have a b&k 467,restored to it's former glory,and a completely restored german müter bmr 95.
Can't thank you enough for this video, dude
Golden axe cool!
I picked up YUNO for PC98 when I was in Sapporo earlier this year. Saw it in the cabinet and I had to buy it. I've always wanted to own a PC98 but it seems like a huge time and money investment to get one up and running.
Great Stuff!
I have a PC-FXGA in a 9821 as well. My only wish is that it could use the PC's monitor instead of composite for better visual quality
Man, this chan nail was hard to gind
I know I'm 3 months late here but a lamp-limiter is the way to go, to reform those electrolytic smoothing capacitors. A variac doesn't actually limit the current as such. Start by "breaking" the valve chain (if it's a series string, just remove one). Then start with a low wattage bulb, (e.g. 40W), wait for it to dim, then gradually up the wattage and repeat. If you have a proper lamp-limiter setup like I made, can go up to e.g. 400W (2x200W bulbs in parallel). Then you could re-fit the extracted valve and flick the bypass switch. Obviously some critical caps need to be checked/replaced so as to protect the valves. As for use on 405-lines, expect better results than on 625. (Clean/check the system switch!).
I have a Pye 48 which is basically the same set with different trim/finish and the two controls are side-by-side. Also produces an excellent picture, especially on 405. That tuner can be configured for 625 VHF and also 405 UHF so with a 405-line VHS recording you can hook up straight to the aerial socket, without a standards convertor or custom modulator in the chain. I'm prepared to make one or two if you need them. Let me know what material you would like e.,g. test cards, etc.. (I'm new to your channel, don't know what you already have).
I was thinking about trying something like that. I need a good way to test 405. I might be getting a pattern generator that can do 625/405 soon. If I can't get one, I might take you up on that offer. Thanks!
@@imagineer5765 I looked into this a bit further. I do have the Aurora 625 → 405 convertors, but they don't have baseband output (only RF). So this is going to need slightly more work; unless a VCR I'm likely to acquire can handle positive modulation (my in-house TV distribution was carrying 3 405-line channels in Band III, alongside two 625 channels also in Band III! Plus a couple at UHF; need to get that working again) and preferably also can find a way of getting the audio fed in separately. My older VCRs are UHF-only, neg-mod for their RF inputs, except one which I added a multi-band tuner to, for DXing and cable reception, but still negative modulation. A SECAM capable machine would be a better bet. The AM sound subcarrier might be on the wrong side though, as well as the separation.
I think the gap in the trim is meant to be there, because I have an old 1970 G.E.C. monochrome TV, which is similar in design to your TV on the front and that has a gap.
The maker is Invcta, a sub brand of Pye, Stationmaster is the model name.
Ah, this is really good to know. Thanks. I was struggling to find any information on it.
Hi, Thanks for making the video on this one. I’ve never heard of the Stationmaster brand - not a name owned or used by Pye as far as I know. It could have been used by a small rental company (most people rented their tellies at the time) or it might have been used by one of the home shopping catalogues which had various ‘house brands’ I agree with @triodehexode on replacement of any wax paper caps which are subject to high voltage, but would advise against wholesale replacement of capacitors. There is a risk you end up introducing faults by doing this. The main smoothing electrolytic looks to be in good condition and I think I can spot a few Mullard ‘Mustard’ capacitors in there (yellowish with rounded ends). These are usually very reliable. The plastic covering over the screen is indeed there to guard against implosion. Later models used twin-panel CRTs which did not require this. If you remove the CRT (I would advise against doing this) make sure you were eye protection as these things can go off like a grenade if struck in the wrong place. The implosion protection must be reinstalled with the CRT. Keep an eye on how warm the LOPT (flyback) gets - if the set has been unused for a long time moisture is likely to have formed within the windings and this will need to be driven out. Operating the set over time will help with this but turn it off if you find the LOPT gets hot to the touch Anyway good luck with the restoring it, the CRT looks to in excellent condition. Cheers Ian
Thanks for the information. I'll be sure to keep an eye on the LOPT. The LOPT is the main thing I worry about on these sets. I've heard running the TV on 405 can help prolong the life of it. I might try that in the future.
@@imagineer5765 Yes, running on 405 will mean all the line output components will be operating under less stress than on 625. When these sets were new they were obviously designed to be repeatedly switched between the two standards but these days I would recommend switching off first as the switching itself may place extra stress on elderly components.
Interesting USB options - I didn't think Windows 95 (or NT4) supported USB.
“Radiant Screen” was Mullard’s brand of re-gunned CRTs, so that TV has been serviced before.
@stickytapenrust6869 Interesting! That's good to know.
I think mine has the original CRT, but will have to check. In any case, it produces a lovely bright sharp picture. I just need to find the culprit causing the line-hold to drift after about half an hour (both standards).
Would change caps that have high voltage on them especialy those on control grids. Change the mains filter cap usually accross mains switch they go bang. Lovely Picture on that. In the mid 70s Watched the Prisoner on monochrome Bush dual standard 161 sharp as a pin but liniarity was out a bit which made the penny farling on the titles look a bit egg shaped. be seeing you!
@triodehexode I will change those high voltage caps then. Also, I loved that story haha! Be seeing you.
Shouldn’t use Vaseline. It will melt and is not a great high voltage insulator. Use EHT silicon grease
The plastic gaurd on the front of the CRT is an implosion gaurd used before direct view Rimband tubes came out. Pye Ekco Feranti used same chassis Pye and Philips also had a tie in with radios in the 60s.
@triodehexode Yes, I later realised that. I didn't know they came in this rubber variety. I have only seen the plastic guards.
Not heard of this brand.
Gap in the beading @3:30 is supposed to be there, it just shouldn't be as pronounced. The beading is a straight piece that is bent to fit during manufacturing.
Good to know. Thanks!
Whats the vaseline do? Ive got a huge samsung but its from the time they stopped putting all the knobs on the back, saved all the work of taking the back off. Been running nonstop for 7-8 years, brilliant sound.
It's not essential but it helped in this case. It basically acts as a sort of dielectric grease. It just helps stop dust and stuff from getting underneath the anode cap.
@@imagineer5765 logical
Definitely any 'waxies' need to go. They are nearly always leaky, and in any case they can't be trusted. They can damage other components, especially if they are between the anode of the last stage and the grid of the next, since if they are leaky they will put a positive potential on the grid and turn the valve on hard, damaging the valve and perhaps other components too. Same with electrolytics - just can't be trusted when they are that old. The flat caps with small (picofarads) values are usually OK and often resistors are OK too. Sometimes you can 're-stuff' old caps, of course, especially if they are more visible. Thanks for sharing. I would love to see that working on 405 line!
Thanks for the comment. Lots of good info. Much appreciated!
The yellow gunk you wiped off of it meens the TV belonged to a smoker in the past.
And if it is really yellow and gunky then it was probably a pipe smoker! Certainly the case with one old TV I had. I thought the picture was just dim until I wiped the screen.
My grandmother got one similar to this when I was 12 years old. I used to envy it because kids used to not have a TV in their own room back in day. My uncle bought it brand new for his mum.
As if by chance, your Sunday walk takes you past the radio and television shop, and your mistress wants to pull you along - she knows this trick, but then she gives in. After a lot of discussion, the moment comes when the new television is delivered. And yes, the children then had a lot to talk about at school.
Cheers for the video. I’ve been thinking about getting into collecting PCB’s but have very little technical knowledge or skill. Can I ask what sort of lifespan you can expect from a board from the 90/2000’s hearing a lot of horror stories such as it degrades each time you switch it on and off.
They don't tend to "degrade" but switching them on/off is the time they are most likely to fail. Although, it won't be common at all, unless the board has a bad reputation for failing. In my experience boards from 90's/early 2000's are pretty reliable. When a board does go bad most of the time it can be a simple fix. I would suggest if you are going to use an arcade PCB, have a good length gaming session. Try to avoid playing it for 5 minutes at a time. Usually arcade games were left on all day anyway.
nice video! was cool to watch as someone whos only experience with the pc98 is with emulators
i’ve been wanting to emulate pc98 visual novels for a while now. do you mind if i ask you how did you do it?
@@asdfmepls theres a bunch of emulators but the best one is t98 next but i personally use neko project 2 fmgen most of the time because im used to it. sometimes games might not work well on one emulator. id probably recommend the pc98 mode of dosbox-x
I didn’t think the British monarchy allowed their subjects to own TVs.
It was very cool and wonderful.Thank you for showing me!👍
Fantastic cool piece!!!
Hi. If you're not familiar with valves (tubes), electrically a valve is rather like an FET, with the cathode corresponding to the source, anode to the drain and control grid to the gate. The grid is usually biased a few volts negative with respect to the cathode, maybe just two or three volts. You want to avoid accidentally biasing the grid positive, which will switch the valve on hard and cause damage to the valve and other components. This can happen if the grid is fed via a capacitor from the anode of the previous stage (high voltage), and the capacitor has become leaky, These caps are often of the 'waxie' type (paper and foil encased in wax) in vintage equipment, and should be replaced as a matter of course, as they're nearly always bad. The great thing about valve circuits is that you can test a lot of components in circuit when the valves are not powered up.
Retro cool! Thanks! 🎻😎😎🙂😎
Servicing the Pye 11U article is in Television magazine May 1972. Availabe for free download here:- www.worldradiohistory.com/UK/Practical-Television/70s/Television-Servicing-UK-1972-05.pdf
Hopefully you have a service sheet/manual for it. I noticed you struggled with the UHF tuner. I'm not sure if it just needs lubricating, or if the dial cord needs restringing...it is all shown in the service sheet. We used to rent exactly the same model back in the 70's. Richard
Shango approved
You'll have no problem if you already can repair colour CRT sets. Lovely set and good luck with it.
That is a really nice Tv set. I wish I have one of those Tvs.
This come up on the home page. Old skool. 9 years before I was born. When I see the doors I thought, horrible, limit the viewing angle, then they slide open!. The other telly, thought to myself. 1981, So a few years out then. People crank old stuff up slowly through a variac or something, seen before or run the power through a light bulb, limits the power, never got that. Just tuning on is a no I think. Still a VHF telly antenna at a village not far away., Big H looking thing. Guess that a throwback to the good old days. Wooden case tv, had into the later 80's. First teletext think and 2 side, front facing speaker, big wide old telly, 1982. Remote control, as teletext would be :). Dad not buy cheap. Ferguson videostar VHS as well.
Is that Professor X before being stuck in a wheelchair ?
Nice work! I have the same model with this issue. And a second one with a different issue, every few minutes a small part of the screen kicks out to the right for what looks to be a single frame, then returns to normal. Any ideas on that one? Cheers
I'm not really sure what that could be. I have never seen that before. It could be a sync related issue, but I don't know. Hopefully you can figure it out
Promo_SM 👏
nice!
what does the switch for the keyboard look like?
Team Innocent
Wooow nice !!! Can I find this device somewhere ?
I've got a similar jvc and like you say the service manual says the hour counter goes up to 650, mine says 609, which means that number must be multiplied by 100. x1 wouldn't make sense and x10 wouldn't make sense. If it is x100 then mines done 60000 hours. Which definitely isn't true judging by the picture as it is bright and crisp (as yours looks to be) so were the tubes possibly replaced? Who knows.
Chip Chan Kick its awesome EXCLUSIVE for PC-FX
My first ever PC! My family used it until 2006. Any idea what the second purple power button is? Mine always just froze the machine and I had to restart it.
Is this still available for purchase?
It is if you don't mind paying $650 US for repros.
Yes one!
Nice setup bro! U just got a sub!