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Hi, As a rule of thumb, your going to want to fix the issues that you can verify upfront first, so the charging issue before you look at anything else like the sensors. I'll have to check my robot when I get a chance to confirm this (away at the moment) but one thing that would be nice to know is if there are any light indicators (like a battery icon light or some light that turns on/changes) when you place the robot on the charging dock correctly. I doubt it's the battery, but that's one way of finding out (light indicators showing the dock or robot are acknowledging the connection for power, but the robot not holding a charge). I don't want you to waste your money on a battery, so anything you can check to see if it's because of a bad battery would be most ideal, or you could always order one and check the return policy before doing so that way you can plug it in, see if it comes on when placed back on the dock, and if not, send it back since the battery you already have is probably good then.

@@CodeVelazquez Greetings, I have with the robot damaged for about 1 year. Unfortunately I thought it was the battery and if I got to buy an economic one, and only saw how the new one was gradually discharged. When I put it on the charging base the base recognizes that it is sending power to the robot but it doesn't even flinch, it doesn't charge anything. Sorry for not mentioning those details. I have come to think that it is the robot's charging pads. But I don't know which ones to buy as I can't find the ones for my robot specifically and I don't know which ones are compatible. Do you think the same as me?

Ok, so if I understand correctly, you put a different battery in and the robot worked, but the battery slowly discharged since the robot was not charging? And when you would place the robot on the base, it would recognize such is the case, just no charging? Ok, if this is indeed the case, it sounds much like the charging mechanics of the robot that may be faulty. That's a tough one, since it would have to be more so the board that directs power to the battery then the physical connectors that touch the docks charging points. I'm unfortunately not too familiar with the charging components on the robot. If you were to try and fix this, you might have to do some exploring to see how readily avaliable the charging components that compatible for that particular model are. I wouldn't spend more than $80 in total, as past that you'll start approaching the used price of vacuum robots you can pick up from a used store like a flea market. If there's a video taking apart your model all the way down, that would be good to watch, you can try to eye what physical parts of the board are connected to the charging components to see if you could gather any important detail like maybe the wiring between the boards and the charging connectors. On the robot that make contact with the dock.

@ thank you very much for the information 🤍

Yes, it will give you more disk space to install applications, just keep in mind that if you do this, that USB drive will need to forever be apart of that router to avoid any very weird behavior. I can't tell you how the router will behave if you install super important and heavily customized applications that you run and then the usb drive stops working. If you use a good USB drive, leave it in the router and forget about it, you should be fine.

Lol if you catch the time between the two points, 2 minutes jump forward so I likely experienced some issue and needed to change it. If I'm not mistaken, I think port 80 and port 443 are the default ports for accessing your server directly (to login). So I would recommend to not only change those default ports, but to also use different ports from those at this point in the video when your setting up access to your web pages. I used 82 (http) and 8082 (https) but these are also not as important as the ports you specify for the web pages themselves, since if you want to access the different web pages outside your house, they all need to use the same http and https port you set (which can be different even from this point). So to sum it up: I changed the port, you can generally use whatever port you want (although it will complain if the port is already in use), most important section is where you specify the port for the particular web page

Hopefully this helps you: th-cam.com/video/8AtaUFZt6KI/w-d-xo.html

Thanks for the tip, we've made adjustments for our future videos from this!

You won't be able to use the TR-004 like this, as that model is a USB-C direct connection model. Meaning it's meant for direct connection to a computer. You could arguably achieve something close connecting it directly to a router, but I can't promise you that interfacing with it will be the same as the regular NAS models like the TS-233 your looking at. As long as it is an actual NAS (networked, accessible over your network connection). You should be able to do everything I've done with some slight adjustments since the models will be much newer than what I have, which is the TS-431p. My model is super old, so I wouldn't look for that one in particular, whatever you can afford that has ethernet connections (connect to your router) and you should be good. One last thing that will only matter if your going to get more technical with the things you can do, if you have the opportunity to avoid ARM processors, it will make certain "extra" things a lot more easier. But this only matters if your trying to use something like docker and install applications to run off of dockers as sometimes you will have to do digging to find the "right" version of the software that supports ARM processors. To reiterate, there's nothing wrong with ARM processors, you will just need to keep it in mind when installing stuff from outside the QNAP store (like docker images)

Yup, making them a really good way to show how awesome the attended upgrade package is with OpenWrt since it will get all your packages for you so you don't have to reinstall them yourself.

Wow, thanks for sharing, I'll have to look into that one, sounds super convenient when you have a decent size home. I do wonder how OpenWrt would handle a device like that with linked mesh devices such as what your describing. Wonder how much configuration you have to do for all 4.

TP-Link Deco line up don't have the normal US interface that normal routers has. The TP-Link Deco uses smartphone app to control it and for configuration. So during configuration they really act as one voice so to speak. The biggest benefit for using the Deco is when you carrying mobile devices around the home. As you move through the home your device will switch which deco it uses to get the best signal. If the deco's are placed in the right spots through the home. You can be sure every device connected to the network will have the best signal it can get.

Thanks for the feedback, we're making adjustments every step of the way.

Hi there, You mind sharing the particular router your using? The preliminary research I did tells me that the squashfs is used on routers with SD card slots, so primarily the Pi routers. I don't own any so my first attempt will be to mimic one if that's possible. Otherwise, I'll put it on my to buy list when I have the spare cash to buy a cheap pi and SD card. I will also keep researching to see if there's something unique I can find out as there's chatter about potentially being able to use something different from squashfs which could be easier.

​@@CodeVelazquezHello am using NanoPi R2S

Are you referring to a domain anybody can go to, or just you? If your talking about one that everyone can go to, which is what I have, you have to already own one, i.e buy a domain name from a service provider. I use to have Google domains, but they sold their take to squarespace, so you can try there and many others.

Hmm, by recovery image are you referring to the .itb file? In most cases, if you are loading up the .itb file, imagine that you arey loading an entire encapsulated Linux operating system, so by default, there will be no password, all you need to know is the correct i.p address to the router, which *most* of the time, should have now been changed to 192.168.1.1 so double check using your computer to see what the i.p address is for the router it is connected to via an ethernet cord as there will be no Wi-Fi signal until you set it up ofcourse. Once you connect the router to the computer using the eathernet cord into the Lan port (make sure it is not the internet port in the router, needs to be one of the Lan ports), get the i.p address and ssh to the router, should be for example (ssh root@192.168.1.1) that you can type in the windows terminal, if it ask for a password, simply hit enter as there will be none setup by default. Amd lastly, if you get a host key error trying to ssh into the router, 9 out of 10 times it's because it created keys before from ssh into the same physical router with a different operating system basically, so you will need to delete the known_host file on your computer, but let's focus one thing at a time starting with that you are trying to connect with the proper i.p address. Can you confirm the i.p address to your router?

Glad I could help!

You are most welcome, happy to help

Who the fuck cares lol

Hi there, sorry to hear that was problem. that ttyd package is 100% optional. You can ssh into your router as well, I just find it a little easier and comfortable for people who are on the lower spectrum side of using tech related stuff. It also can be a bit convenient if you jump through different operating systems that you ssh from as some linux distributions can give you a little more hassle trying to standard ssh into it. Once you ssh into your router, your able to run all the same commands.

Hi there, wish I could of gotten you sooner, but we're here now. Upfront, your spot on with what your providing actually, I'm not 100% familiar with what your doing, what I can say though that to the best of my knowledge (which is honestly not "that" much) if it is rejecting the private key either: 1) It's complaining about the format (Possible, may not be likely, Just remember that the reason you are even able to generate a different file format for your keys instead of SSL certificates being 100% a standardize, same format is because different implementations of back-end applications process them differently. Even the intermediate certificates are not always used, so you should really take your format into consideration if you exhaust your other means. I personally never heard of your formats being an issue or that my formats being required, but I also am not that verse in that realm or familiar with what exactly your trying to do, so always consider what you can). 2) The application is having a match issue with your certificate and private key, and I don't know how many different reasons that could be, but one that CAN be hardware/software dependent *I think* is the encryption type used . Let's look at these two example commands: Certbot certonly --dry-run --manual --must-staple --staple-ocsp --key-type=rsa --rsa-key-size=*Number, default is 2048* Certbot certonly --dry-run --manual --key-type=ecdsa --elliptic-curve= *Number, default is secp256r1* These are dry run, so they don't actually do anything, but think of the end product. Both generate certificates, but the certificate encryptions are completely different and there is a very strong likely hood that you could get one to work, but possibly not the other. And then in addition to that, there's different levels to the encryption since you could customize the encryption type further by specifying the rsa key size and elliptic curve used in generating your keys. Now this is where it gets kinda sucky . . . . If you can't find anybody that did exactly what you want AND on the same hardware/software you used, then all those customization points are all possible points of success. Now you could and likely will be able to narrow it down if you stick with defaults for the two types, just know that you could very well be that odd one that needed further customization vs defaults. In my video, I had to specify the rsa key type in that way because whatever the defaults are that certbot was generating, was not working. So I eventually found this to work for me. Again, this isn't exhaustive, and I'm not that verse in the realm of SSL certs, I just hope that whatever information you get from this and the videos, it helps make your trailblazing path a little easier. Good luck!

Happy it helped, and sorry to hear that. Now as a disclaimer, I'm not a professional, nor am I that knowledgeable on all the ins and outs of maximizing and fixing the speed of an openwrt router. I'm learning just as I'm sure all of you are, I can tell you what my experience has been and hopefully that helps! For your speed, That could be dependent on a few things like how developed openwrt is for your particular router. Assuming it is this one for example having better support in snapshot version vs the stable release currently, you should consider the following: For Wi-Fi, try to fine tune it for your environment like customizing the channel it uses, the band size (20hz up to 160hz if you have devices that can support it and there is not a lot of wifi signals where your at). There's free apps you can download on your phone like Wifiman and Netgear Wi-Fi analytics that can show you some very important details about all the wifi signals around the room you have your router in (neighbors wifi, hidden wifi, etc) like: 1) What channels those wifi signals are using? You want yours to be on the channel with the least amount of wifi signals on, 2) how big the bands are that those wifi signals take (one signal could cover channel 3, 4, and 5 for example), This is important to know because when you place your wifi signal on a specific channel, when you specify the width, the larger the number, the more channels its going to spread over, and therefore, more susceptible to degraded performance when other signals are in it's space. But if you can find the space to have it on more channles, your wifi signal will perform much fatser for devices that are able to take advantage of the infamous MIMO antenna stuff. If your talking about a wired connection, then things are a little bit more complicated. The best you can do: Install htop on the router, when you ssh into it and then run the command "htop", you will get this nice graphical interface that shows you your router CPUs at work. This is going to be very important, do this and once you have the screen up, then start further testing: Try to see if *Possibly* enabling the software flow offloading under Openwrt -> Network -> Firewall section of the router interface will help, and then run your favorite internet speed test on the PC. You'll notice that as it's running, the cpu's on the router (typically only really one of them) max out in utilization. The goal from my understanding is to try and have this as low as possible, it's not necessarily a bad thing if it caps out on you, so long as its not all the available cpu's, you should be ok, but again, the lower the better as that means it has room to handle higher speeds or do other stuff. You want to then try the following: 1) Speed test with everything default, important to get a base speed number. 2) Speed test with software flow offloading on, than the hardware version on as well (*At the time of writing this and for THIS particular router from the video, Hardware flow offloading changed nothing and I don't believe was supported, but as you know with snapshot builds this can get better or worse, so it's always good to try anyway to see, especially if your updating from time to time*) 3) Also attempt to speed test with packet steering enabled, you can find this at Openwrt -> Network -> Interfaces -> the "Global network options" tab. And see how that works. Remember, lower is better on the cpu usage, and this is not an exhaustive list of things that could help you get better speeds, these are what I've personally experienced and am familiar with to share.

@@CodeVelazquez thank you so much for the advice. Im going to work on this and reply back with findings!

Depends, enough time has passed where I am sure you probably already got it, depends on what you wanna do: If you want what is arguably the best consumer router in terms of hardware specs in an actual router that you can put openwrt on, with increasing support AND you plan on making this your day to day router and so you want something that can actually give you things like wifi6 speeds and whatnot. This is a solid choice. ESPECIALLY it's price point you can find it on at Amazon. I have three =) If you want a router strictly to learn openwrt and do some really cool customizable stuff and really plan to install a bunch of stuff, experiment with things and potentially jack it up. The linksys wrt 3200 acm router I made videos on would be my go to simply for it's specs ALONG with it's dual boot capabilities, which is so convenient and can be a massive life savor if you install/configure something that just jacks up the openwrt system where you can't get into the interface or worse can't ssh into it. It was considered the best in my opinion from what i've read back in the day for openwrt routers because of its specs. The only thing I"ve tried that didn't work with it is if your trying to use certain wireless repeating protocols like 802.11r (and of course I could of been doing something wrong), but other than that, and that was I guess specific to it's age, everything was great on it. I recommend this router only for this reason as it is still old and I wouldn't use it as my main go to with wifi being important to me since it obviously don't support the later protocols and speeds.

i already did it with my old computer with 4ghz...installed openwrt on usb and run SQM mode hehe Thanks!@@CodeVelazquez

Just finished my install, for some reason my USB drive wouldn't work so I used diskpart and ran clean on it then reformatted with FAT32 and it was fine. Without this guide I don't think I could've done this process, thanks!

Was my first go around with web hosting and using SSL certificates. I just started using the container station for hosting other stuff like my personal git repository. I like to try and keep customizations simple also, the built in web hosting feature makes it available to everyone, sometimes anything extra you have to install isn't available/compatible with your particular device. For example, that personal git repository site I was talking about, I had to really dig in to install and get working a super specific, customized version for my QNAP server because of the type of OLD CPU my QNAP had. It didn't support the typical instruction set of newer ones and that complicated so much for me with getting the container up and running. This is one of many experiences in my life with stuff where I always try to default to the least amount of extra stuff to install if built in stuff is already available. This may or may not be the best way, but I know it was always the most compatible way for me, especially when sharing with others.

Yes, the pronounication in the video is strange. Even I am not a native English speaker, I'd pronounce OpenWRT as "open w r t"

It is stable, but so many improvements and fixes have been added since the stable 23.05 version that I would actually personally recommend going the snapshot route. Just remember that you'll need to I stall luci via ssh when you install snapshots since it's preincluded in them. Just as a reinforcer, The snapshots are so far ahead of the stable release build that the group of developers that are behind bringing support for the device are in the process of changing the recommendation from the stable build to the snapshot. The convo is a little more advance (tech politics) then what I currently understand, but that's how much more of an improvement the snapshot build is currently at, they update the build nearly daily it seems so just imagine how much has improved over many months!

@@CodeVelazquez thanks homie

Thanks a bunch for the catch, that means I can either rerun the usb commands with the correct filename, or change the filename on the usb drive around if I needed the recovery prior to fixing it.

Qualcommmaxxing 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪

Hi there, happy it helped! Regarding your question. I don't know *yet*. I actually took your question up with some of the people who have been working on developing openwrt for this router. When they get back to me, I'll reply again to you with what I found out. My initial thinking is that it stays persistent when your "recovering" openwrt, meaning if you find some way to repair it on the router which would include also sysupgrading the firmware. Now if you reflash the installation or even reformat the mtd partitions like you were reinstalling like in the original instructions as if you were installing openwrt when it had oem firmware, it probably doesn't, but that may only be true with reformatting the partitions and not openwrt depending on how the u-boot is involved. Hopefully they'll answer me soon.

Turns out that It does indeed persist even after a recovery. That's good since U-boot is an increadibly easy way to brick and render your device unusable if something were to go wrong from fiddling with it too much.

Hey there! Thanks for asking, later on, I'll try to add your questions' answer in the description if youtube allows the space. But your answers are: 1) For installing packages offline, you'll need to download the ipk file of the package and scp the file to the router and then run opkg install command on that file. It'll look something like this: 1a: go here openwrt.org/packages/table/start?dataflt%5BName_pkg-dependencies*%7E%5D=Luci and get the luci package 1b: open the console, and navigate to where you downloaded the luci package and then do scp luci filename.ipk root@192.168.1.1:/tmp 1c: if the transfer was successful, ssh into the router, navigate to /tmp, and then run opkg install lusifilename.ipk 1d: wait for it to finish and your done. 2) For your other question, in general, most routers with multiple ports, especially those that come with a Wan port typically support VLan. The issue though is that because the router is so new and only supported in snapshot builds, it's hard to say if vlan functions 100% as expected, the only way you'll know is by trying it and testing everything, to include any extreme edge cases to ensure it functions as expected. Hope this helps!

Linksize is good

thought the same thing

u need to flash it in another partition

comments acting strange, had typed out a lot that was helpful, so I'll just summarize to say that to make sure you have the right version (for WRT3200ACM and not WRT32XX), I strongly recommend the stable versions, As the candidate versions can be intense as your living on edge there i.e, things possibly being broken or a headache. Lastly, unless you have to upgrade because you want to save packages and configurations, you should really use a factory image and do a clean install in my opinion. Just make sure to do the dual-boot thing on the router so that it boots the previous, working firmware first so that you can replace the one that doesn't as whatever firmware your using when you do an install, it overwrites the other firmware partition, not the one your using at that time and then it switches to that one. The factory file should be called openwrt-22.03.2-mvebu-cortexa9-linksys_wrt3200acm-squashfs-factory.img (at the time of writing), so make sure your getting the right one and do a hash check to know the downloaded file is complete and not bugged somehow with a missing bit or whatever (the hashes won't match on the website if the file isn't the exact same). Finally, firmware can be tricky and it can possibly do crazy things to your device, like blow it up, so always proceed with caution and take care!

6:15 you won't see the interface unless you create it. That timestamp in the video walks through making that interface. Did you already create the interface?

@@CharlesVelazquez Thanks for your help. I mad a mistake. I had problem with the certificate on the server part. It was expired and the VPN connection was not established. (But the VPN was started state). Therefore the "Ethernet interface "tun0" " was not created. Once I solved the VPN problem the "Ethernet interface "tun0" " appeared in the list.